Chasing that last little oil-leak
 

So....

A couple months ago I replaced the valve cover gaskets and front timing cover gaskets on my BMW Valdez. The oil leaking problem has nearly been eliminated - however I am seeing just a little bit of fresh-oil hanging from the bottom of the tension-strut bushing on the drivers side.

It's not obvious where the source of this leak is. It's very slight. The top of the bushing seems relatively dry. The only thing I can think of - is what I think may be the "engine oil cooler pipe" and some of its associated joints? I don't think it's the alternator bracket.

I just cleaned the area up again - so might get a clue where it's coming from. It's defiantly not red-ATF although it looks like some lines that run from the PS reservoir are a bit moist

Has anyone else had similar problems? It's just not obvious where it's coming from above. Pics.

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/05/19/dusu4a4y.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/05/19/y5a2agud.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/05/19/dyhepaqa.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/05/19/zedege9u.jpg


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Are you sure it is oil and not power steering fluid (atf)?

It looks like clean oil - I just changed the oil two weeks ago so it's pretty easy to spot clean oil. At one point I thought it may have been residue from engine-degreaser from the first-cleaning - but I am unconvinced.


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Okay - so now I am thinking it may be power steering fluid after-all! I cleaned up the engine compartment and tension-strut last weekend. I see a little evidence of leakage on one of the hoses from the PS reservoir. A year ago I replaced one of the clamps. Looks like I should do the other one. It's odd as the fluid that was lightly collecting on the tension strut looked relatively clean and clear - not red. That seems to be the only thing it could be. It hasn't collected on the strut yet as it's a very slow weep.

It's POSSIBLE one of the metal-crimp bands on one of those hoses is bad it's slightly-cracked where the machine crimped the band. It looked like there might have been a little fluid coming from an indentation on the band itself.


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Garett, your pics are too small and I can't see them.......:stickpoke

Hah. I see them all with my phone so they look fine to me!


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Have you replaced those thrust bushings yet? Those bushings are fluid filled and could be your source of the leak. Both of mine leaked a few years ago and I had replaced them with Meyle HD bushings, which are non-fluid filled.

No!!! I have not replaced them!! I think I need to though!


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I have the same type of leak and I couldn't see where is coming from. It's not the valve cover gasket, nor the oil pan. I don't know what's in between these two that can cause an oil leak.

sorry, mine is on the passenger side.

If those bushings are oil-filled I bet that's where it's coming from. Confused the hell out of me as I couldn't find a source from above.

The bushings aren't shot-to-hell as far as I can tell, but I can grab the "arm" and twist it a bit side-to-side. I am guessing the bushing is supposed to have a little-play in it due to the molded "webbing" design I can see both in mine and in the new ones. I initially wondered if that webbing was actually cracking until I looked at what a new one looks like.

I do think a number of bushings/stuff in the front-end are up for replacement though. Not sure how many need to be addressed though. Maybe some - maybe all.

I can tell when I hit bumps that it doesn't sound nice and tight - this is something I am sure my wife is oblivious-to.




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Those bushings are cracked I can see them in the pics. They are fluid-filled from the factory, replace the bushings or the arm with a solid rubber Meyle HD version, I prefer the arm as its easier than pressing.

The arm should be tight without much play at all or flex in the bushing when it is in good shape.

Well then - I think mine are shot
to hell then. From recollection I can grab it and move it maybe an inch up and down in a twisty-motion.

So my options here are -

1. Buy entire-arm with bushing and ball-joint on the other end (from memory).

2. Try and piece-part it back together with minimally a new bushing - but likely a new ball joint as well. Just makes sense.

You need a press to R&R the bushing - which I don't have. Do the ball-joints tend to be unruly or can I pop em off with a pickle fork (I do have) or a harborfreight ball joint remover type tool (I don't have).

This particular joint doesn't impact the alignment geometry in the front end does it?

Sounds like I need to do a little reading and shopping/pricing research.


(See it pays to post high-res pictures)


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No re-alignment is needed after replacement. Make sure you tighten the arm with the car on the ground to prevent added stress placed on the bushings.

What he said (torque bushing with wheels on ground)

Ball joint you need some BFH action and get a new one

What do you think of the "Karlyn" brand kits? The price sure is nice....

BMW Control Arm Kit 6-Piece (X5) - Karlyn E53CAKIT | FCP Euro

......and I think I answer by own question. Some have suggested they are garbage. That's too bad.

I examined then this evening. The play isn't so bad as I thought. Maybe 1/2 inch at most, but it does look like the bushing is distorted / off-center.

I'll read up on front end play diagnosis and give all components an evaluation


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Garbage. Spend the money on quality suspension parts. Or you would need to replace again and end up spending more money and time...

Oil filter housing gasket maybe?

For the bushings, I tried doing the bushing only. Tried on car and it was hard. Tried to take arm off to take to a press, but couldn't separate from the joint (I wanted to save the joint). Tried to take the joint out with the arm - no bloody way. Back to doing the bushing on the car. Many a choice word later, it was done. Wouldn't recommend this way again. I'd sport for the arm with bushing and if the joint was old, just do it at the same time too.