Power Steering Fluid Leak
 

Last week as part of my 100k maintenance I changed the PS reservoir and fluid. I did not have a leak prior to this. When I opened up the old reservoir I notice the fluid was quite low.

After replacing the res I filled it with fluid, and after that I noticed a leak. After parking the car there is always a small puddle of fluid. I figured I must have put a hose on wrong, so I took it all apart again and found no leaks at the hose connections to the reservoir. The alternator shows no fluid on it and the res is clean.

Now that the fluid is low again in the res the leak seems to have gone away. The PS seems OK, but something must be wrong. Any ideas?

Is at the rack? Do I have to remove the stiffener plate to find out?

Did you bleed the system properly? Maybe some air bubbles are trapped causing it to bubble and spit out through the reservoir? They are notorious for weeping at the best of times.

The other thing to check is the two hoses underneath the reservoir. I know you said you checked, but the stock clips are known to become ineffective as the rubber hardens - try replaceing with screw clamps and tighten up hard.

Finally, if it's still leaking - diagnose it by starting at the highest point, make sure everything is clean and then drive it - check for any wetness - and then work your way down. Unfortunately by putting new, thinner fluid in, it might be finding it easier to push past a seal.....

Is the hose perished?

The hose was not in bad shape, and I did replace the clamps with screw clamps.

However I did not bleed the system, but I don 't see any fluid up top at the reservoir. I will figure out how to bleed the system and refill the reservoir and see what happens.

I did all that and still have the leak. It must be coming from the rack. Can a fluid change cause a leak? Not looking forward to that job.

Short story, a fluid change can result in leakage, yes. Racks can, and do, develop leaks over time. The hydraulic system in them is operating under decent pressures, and the seals will wear out. Happens to all hydraulic systems. As much as we would like to think otherwise, steering racks are not a "lifetime part".

Just be aware that when the fluid is cold it will appear lower, when it's warm it rises and if overfilled will push past the reservoir cap.

You need to isolate the top half first. If you've cleaned down the top half of the system so it's absoloutely dry to touch - and it is not wet after a drive but the fluid is appearing below - then you can start to eliminate the easy to fix areas.

It seems strange to develop a leak through just replacing the fluid, but can you be certain it wasn't there before? Obviously you replaced the reservoir for a reason.....was the leak confined to there previously?

I only replaced the Res as part of preventative maint. The fluid level was low, but no apparent leak. The top of the system is clean. Not a drop on the alternator. Most of fluid leak is on the drivers side when looking under the car. It is dripping off the frame there.

These seals that go bad. Are they easily replaced? Or do you need a rebuilt unit?

I wish I never had changed fluid. I was planning on doing the transmission fluid and filter next, but this has given me pause. Tranny is fine, maybe I shouldn't mess with it.

Lol - I hate those 'I shoulda just left it alone' moments when working on cars.

Like Ant said, fluid changes can often expose leaks. It can shift build up, dry seals and as I mentioned - the newer, thinner fluid can start to push through the tiniest of areas that maybe the older thicker fluid couldn't.

I'm not familiar with that end of the system so probably can't help much more other than to tell you to keep cleaning/driving/repeat until you locate the leak. At least you can start researching the remedy once you've diagnosed the fault area.

I might try some of that sealing fluid first.

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You can.....but plenty of people won't recommend it.

My understanding of these additives is that they soften and swell the rubber seals, hopefully to the point where it stops the leak. Unfortunately it has the same effect on every rubber component in the system and have a knock-on effect of changing the tolerances on other components, increase wear and pressure on other parts and lead to premature failures.

Pretty much it treats the symptom, but not the problem.

It will probably get you down the road if you're tight for cash or don't plan to keep the car long.....

I can admit that I've used it in the past for pretty much a similar scenario to what you're going through - i bought a 10yr old LS400, first thing I did when I got it home was drop and replace all the fluids for peace of mind and, wouldn't you know it, the lovely and thin fully snythetic oil I put in started weeping out through the rear main seal. Obviously was no match for the pit sludge the p/o had been running in there.....

Don't want to sound like a preacher, but just a heads up!

I know. It really makes me angry. I take such good care of the car, and now I might have a $2000 diy job, and that is if I can do it

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I agree with the suggestions as the first thing to do is to find out the source of the leak. If you are sure you have checked your work thoroughly and there is no leak there then move on to other potential sources. If the leak is dripping from the stiffing plate, remove it in evening and check where it is coming from in the morning. You will need new bolts for the stiffening plate. Obviously, don't drive with the stiffening plate removed.

Sometimes the stiffing plate 'stores' oil or fluid from a leak and for some time after the repair it will appear there is still a leak.

IMO, any additive to transmission fluid is a Bozo no no.

How much fluid are you losing over a set period of time?

I lost about half the res in 5 days. Then the leak almost disappears.

If you are losing that much fluid you can locate the source of the problem. I would search until I find it before doing anything else. If it is dripping from the reinforcement plate, and since it is so easy to remove, that's the next step I would take.

Has anyone switched fluid types on their PS? I order the pento CF hydraulic fluid from oembimmer parts only to find out that my reservoir said ATF only. So I used ATF, but oembimmer told me that BMW says it is OK to switch the fluid types. Anyone else heard that?

It is fine to switch PS fluid brand as long as it meets BMW PS specifications.

It is not just a brand thing. I think the fluid has different properties. Did you change fluids?

Well I got underneath and found some problems. I can't figure out how to post pics but I have a video. Looks like the high pressure hose is shot. It is pealing apart and fluid literally seeps out of it. Also I have a small leak on the hose from the res to the pump. Is this a easy enough DIY?


https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos?p...83930964927649

https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos?p...83930964927649
https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos?p...83930964927649

Here is what the HP line looked like before I cleaned it.

http://www.xoutpost.com/members/bill...ps-hp-line.jpg

Here is the leak on the supply line:

http://www.xoutpost.com/members/bill...63-ps-leak.jpg

Looking at that pic of the supply line - the leak would need to be VERY close to that location in order for the fluid to remain there in that condition for so long. Generally the further away you get from the source of a leak, the dirtier the surface and the leaking fluid will become (from picking up foreign matter).

Pinch clamp is losing its grip on the hose or the hose is leaking.

I ran the car while looking under there and it leaked right at the hose clamp, and the hp line is toast.

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I think it's doable - the fact you're down in the engine bay indicates you're willing to get your hands dirty! From the look of the parts, they mostly look like clamp or banjo type fittings. Nothing too scary.

Did a quick google for a DIY, lots of similar guides for e46 and e39, but couldn't find an e53 specific.....I'm sure there is one if you look though. Just drain they system, remove offending lines. Clean everything down, reinstall, fill, bleed and check for leaks...

Parts are not cheap.......:(

2006 BMW X5 4.8is Sport Utility - Steering System - Page 1

http://ills.bmwfans.info/2svm.png

http://bmwfans.info/parts-catalog/E5...owse/steering/

You might had used the wrong fluid. Some racks uses ATF fluid and some rack uses pentosin CHF 11s. What did the cap on the reservoir indicated as the correct fluid?

Good to see you have located the problem.

Cap said atf. I have been told I can put the pentosin in it. So I am gonna do that this time.

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Strange how they would say you can mix atf and hydro fluid. On my 545i, it is very clear not to mix the two types of fluid. ATF is cheap compared to Pentosin hydo fluid, Dex3 vs CHF right? I would keep to the atf for now since that is what has been in the power steering system.

You are probably right.

Use only a fluid that meets BMW specifications for your vehicle.

That is the problem, I was told both meet it. And Oembimmer parts did not even carry the ATF fluid. Trusting OEMbimmer's website, I just ordered what it told me. Now I wasted $20 on that fluid.

Got the job done. Replaced the hose from the res to the pump, and the high pressure hose. All in all not too difficult of a job to accomplish. The hardest part was threading the banjo bolt back on.

Only problem is that I found an oil leak and do not know where it is coming from. Either the pan or the main seal. It looks like a main seal to me based on where I can see the oil. Not very encouraging. A main seal sounds like a big expensive job and something outside of my expertise.

Just when I think I have the X5 up and running in primo order, something else always pops up.

Since you can't see where the oil is coming from I suggest cleaning the area so that it is easier to locate. Hopefully it is not something serious.

Will try, thanks

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I hope you find your leak. If it is leaking out the ends of the rack, it may be hidden inside the bellows that cover the inner tie rod ends - they are held on with zip ties.

I ended up replacing my rack a year ago. I got a rebuilt unit from Rack and Pinion - rack and pinion steering - rack and pinion remanufacturing - rack and pinion manufacturers - Rack Doctor. They rebuild them there. Rich Swenson was my contact and the rack worked well and has given me no trouble so far. The rebuilt units are around $300 without servotronic and about $400 with. I think they include the inner tie rod ends.

The container is vented and mine did spit bubbles for a couple of weeks but settled down. I kept checking it and topping it off as needed. During the rack swap out, I first flushed the lines with clean fluid, which should have minimized bubbles, but that clearly wasn't perfect.

The power steering leak is fixed, I just found an oil leak in the process.

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I am about to do this job. Ordered 1, 3, 4, 12, reservoir. Curious how much of a bitch it is to remove 3, and 4. Hopefully I don't need some special tool or anything. Does anyone know?

Make sure to replace with normal clamps on those reservoir lines, the Oetiker clamps are dumb dumb.

You'll need this for the quick disconnects on the hard line connections

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/...L._SL1500_.jpg

http://www.amazon.com/CTA-3466-Steer.../dp/B009VI9P62

Ty Rick. Yea I figured I would need some tool for those quick connects. I am actually leaking at the crimp on the quick connect part of the hose.

The Oetiker clamps are strange in that place. So much heat going on there, has to weaken them over time. Even though I have the tool to crimp it properly, I don't get the point. I am just going to use the worm type, have a shit load of those.

Amen to that, I have a new PS reservoir here as well in my basement but prob gonna wait and do the 2 hoses to the reservoir at the same time just for good measure. No leaks yet but those hoses are pretty hard, I put some rubber treatment on there for now. That will be an easy job on a Saturday come spring.