Wheel Alignment Settings
 

Well I have read quite a number of different specs on Wheel alignments but I was wondering who has had one done recently and what specs did you use . I have a 2006 E53 Sports non air suspension running on 20" rims .It is a everyday runaround vehicle so I am not concerned setting the suspension up to make it handle better but I am after longer tyre life .I am currently getting the usual wearing of the inners on the 4 tyres.This wear is the same on all 4 corners so it is currently set up " pretty even"
I have booked it in to get a alignment but would like to supply my own specs to get the max tyre life, the shop said if it is possible they will set the suspension how I want it but I need the specs . Can anyone assist. Thanks

Their machine will have the specs, start from there.

For the front, only toe is adjustable. Set it to the minimum end of spec. That would be around +0'05.

If your front camber and or caster is out of spec, you have a suspension component(s) out of spec and you will have to find it and correct it to get back to spec.

For the rear, camber and toe are adjustable. Set camber first to minimum end of spec (1'30 I think), then set toe to minimum as well (+0'03 I think).

If you run out of adjustment to get to spec there is again something out of spec and needs to be corrected.

You should have a full tank of gas and ballast on the front seats, middle of rear seat, and trunk. (60 kilos per position I think, not sure).

This is a weird one with my car, I was running staggered 19 inch, 255/50 up front 285/45 rear, and for the the life of me couldnt alleviate the rear inner tire wear....PLUS the ride was too rigid with these tires, so I switched to 172 235/65 all the way round to help hand BAD roads out here, and guess what.....even tire wear on the rear now....just dont get it...both previous and current tires were michelin diamaris so cant put it down to tire brand having been the issue...

as for specs i tried to get the camber at rear to nearo and couldnt....becos it messed up my toe which again can case tire wire

Omodos, my own X had a bit more than 1 deg negative camber in the rear when I got it at 20,000-something miles.

Over time and a few front suspension repairs I noticed the rear camber drifting towards the far end of spec. I could not adjust it back as well. Visual inspection of rear suspension showed only torn ball joint boots.

Lately I had to replace the rear wheel bearings and so had to remove the rear upper arms. Their bushings were intact but deflected inwards, pulling the top of hub inward and causing excess negative camber.

Replaced both upper arms and now rear camber is now adjustable back to low end of spec, about a degree and a half negative.

Have the toe set as straight as possible (I had mine set to 0.01) to maximize tires life. Camber can be within spec. The alignment place should have spec in their computer.

x2 on what Tam said, to piggyback on that, if you ask the tire shop to set to .01 on the rear toe, be aware that the shop will tell you that it is "outside the range" on the computer's settings.

Tell them you want it done anyway to .01, your tires will thank you by wearing evenly.

Use the same specs for the front , zero the toe as much as possible ?

Nope front is not needed to zero out. The low end of the spec is like .05 or so, I would just set it to minimum. The front doesn't have the aggressive camber of the rear so you are fine within spec up front.

Thanks very much for the info Ricky Bobby much appreciated .:thumbup:

For the record, front camber is completely adjustable. Look at how the strut attaches at the bottom. Those holes on the strut are slotted so you can adjust camber. I just replaced my struts (and rear shocks). There's quite a bit of camber adjustment there.