BMW.......Break My Window?
 

My wife's X5 sat in our driveway for a month, while we went to Hawaii to set up our house...... The battery has died, and I can't pop the door locks to enter. The problem is, when I was into modding the X5, I changed the drivers side door handle/lock to the euro passengers side, so now you cannot enter the X with a key; just remote only.......well, no battery, no use of remote.
Is there a way to get some power to the truck, before I hafta BMW to enter?
Any idea on which window is cheapest or easiest to install ( front door, rear door)?
Thanks in advance.

if you dont have rear safety airbags, it might be easier to replace rear glass... have to match the tint on the glass if tinted... if you have factory hitch, might be worth a shot to provide power via the plug - not sure if it works or not...

Do you have a trickle charger or float charger? If so, you might want to try removing one of the side lights and hook up to the pos/neg wires. It doesn't take much juice to unlock the doors. If your trickle or float charger has around a 2 amp setting...this may be enough to engage the remote UNLOCK...which will allow you to enter the cabin and raise the hood wher you can hook up a battery charger (or jumper cables) to the jump start terminals in the engine bay.

http://www.bimmerboard.com/members/q...mp%20Start.jpg

TERMINATOR: seems like all the glass (front and rear) is coming up within $20 of each other......the rears are tinted, so I may crash a front window; no hitch on the X.......

QSILVER: at first light today, I will look into the side light option....... I will also call the dealer and see what they suggest.

Does it make any sense to call a mobile pop-a-lock? If I remember when I owned my 3 series, if the doors are locked, you can't just simply pull the door handle to open.......is the X made the same way?

Get underneath the car and see if you can remove enough undertray to get to the starter motor. The starter has a direct power line to the battery (actually it may not be direct but it is certainly unswitched). Put the +ve lead of a charger onto the starter power lead and the -ve onto a suitable metal point under the car. And you will have all the power you need to operate the central locking.

Last month the driver side door handle carrier mechanism went bad and while I waited for the replacement to arrive. my wife drove the X5 to work that day, she stopped at home to pick the kids up for karate class. She ran in the house and left the engine running. Needless to say all the other doors were locked and we only have one key. I called around and had a locksmith there within an hour $95 to open it up.

I had even called United BMW and their recommendation was to wait for the locksmith.

when he arrived he was in the car in about 2 minutes and everything was good. he used a air bladder similar to a blood pressure cuff slid it in between the top right of the door frame and the roof line. A few pumps and had his tool with the hook on the end and a twist of the rod the door was open.( No 12 year giggles please)

Spend the same amount for a locksmith as you would a replacement window and not drive around in a car that looks like it was just boosted.

SilverFalcon5...your situation is slightly different in that the engine was running...thus the central locking system was in single-lock mode...which means all it takes is a pull of an interior door handle...and you're in.

When the vehicle is in double-lock mode...it's not quite as easy because the interior handles are disabled. Double-lock occurs when you lock the vehicle using the key manually from the exterior of the vehicle or using the remote lock feature. BMW did change the system slightly starting with the 2000 model year...in that there's a procedure where you can unlock the vehicle when it is double-locked...prior years and generations...you would be SOL.

To unlock a BMW (from model year 2000-up) when it is double-locked...you:

1. press the central LOCK/UNLOCK button (if the car has electrical power)
2. then, pull TWICE on an interior door handle

Actually, you're correct. There is a positive battery cable that runs from the starter to the alternator to the positive jump start terminal in the engine bay, then back to the positive post on the battery...and onto the high-amp fuse box and the other fuse locations:

:thumbup: It should work if he finds some positive wire.

In the E39 cars, directly under the driver LEFT foot is where the Positive terminal is located. This terminal feeds the starter motor.

Below is the photo of E39 positive terminal, if you look at the aft part of the LF tire, go directly inward, you will see the positive post:

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/att...hmentid=257080

Actually there is no way to open it rather u hv to break it. So u can open your hood. Even with jimmy slim jim wnt wrk. I had to break mine


Modified Driver/ Barn Tunned

As I mentioned above, there must be a positive cable feeding the starter motor.
If you can get to it, supply 12V and you should be able to open the door.

Different question: can you open the door manually?

I'm not the OP...but from a statement in his original post...he removed the emergency and/or manual lock/unlock capability to open the door (form over function): :)

But like CN 90 stated, you can hookup a charger to the starter cable and use the remote (not unless the battery to that is also DEAD) to pop the doors open or the trunk.

What a stupid idea to remove the only key lock to the car. I'm piss that every car manufacturers have decided to remove the passenger side door lock.

Ditto to both of your statements. :)

And is why I posted the diagram a few posts back that shows how the positive battery cable runs through the e53...if they can't pull one of the side lights off to access a positve & ground wire...then try removing an underpanel to gain access to the starter or alternator...to hook up to the positive battery cable...and find a ground.

Either suggestions above should supply enough power to unlock the the doors using the remote key...from there the hood can be opened and the battery charged using the jumps start locations in the engine bay.

Does the positive battery cable really run directly to the battery terminal without something, such as a relay, in its path?

My kids' cars seem to need jump starts on a regular basis, and I've been thinking of adding one of these connectors to the outside of the X5 somewhere, with a mating connector on the end of a set of jumper cables, just to avoid having to connect cables under the hood. Properly placed, something like that would be a good safeguard against being locked out for those who choose to eliminate the keyed entry altogether. Not a solution for the current predicament, but might help someone else with the same mod on their X5.

http://www.remybattery.com/Assets/Pr...on_Kits_LG.jpg

aaahh, anderson mateless connectors.. i have them on my power distribution setup - http://www.xoutpost.com/945373-post25.html.

they are very hard to crimp, but very nice connectors

looking at the WDS diagrams, i am not so sure if connecting the power source to a sidemarker light will power the system - the lights are fed via a MOSFET transistor in the LCM... still, worth a shot...

If you break a window i havr part for it. http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/25/se6ugusu.jpg



Modified Driver/ Barn Tunned

You have a really good point about the MOSFET transistor on the LCM. We won't know unless the OP gives it a try (which...it seems we haven't heard back from them)...but it did work on my old e32 735iL.

A few years ago, the guy I sold it to called because he couldn't get the doors to unlock. The car had sat all winter and the battery had run down...and the emergency door unlock wouldn't work either. After lubing the door lock cylinders it still wouldn't work...but the trunk would (battery is below the rear seat in the e32). So we took a connector off one of the rear tail lights...and hooked up his battery charger (low amps) to the wires...and VOILA!...the doors unlocked.

But again that was a 1991 735iL...and those BMWs had a separate LM (light module) & CCM (check control module)...so things may be totally different.

I used that setup on a Formula Ford so I could carry just a small battery for the duration of the race, but needede a boost to start the engine on the Grid without killing my small battery.

BMW.......Break My Window?
 

After breaking my rear passenger door i will modify outlet so just in case it dies can hook Positive current to jumper cable so i can open it. Ill attach it in the front where the original outlet is by firewall


car shttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/25/ugupu7u4.jpg


Modified Driver/ Barn Tunned

Pnoyako85: do you really have the front windows for an E53? Basking Ridge, that's Jersey, right? PM me a price for one of the fronts.......