DIY: 2006 BMW X5 3.0i: Front/Rear Diff, MT, Transfer Case Fluids
 

DIY: 2006 BMW X5 3.0i: Front/Rear Diff, MT, Transfer Case Fluids
The E53 is now at 115K miles. Time for Fluid Changes…


PARTS/TOOLS:

* The capacity is approximate and I did my best to estimate it.

* Front Diff ~ 0.7L, Redline 75W90 Fluid, 14-mm Hex type; Drain/Fill bolts have O-ring.

* Rear Diff ~ 1.5L, Redline 75W90 Fluid, 14-mm Hex type; Drain/Fill bolts have O-ring.

* Man Trans ~ 1.7L, Redline MT-90 Fluid, 8-mm Hex type.

* Transfer Case ~ 0.8L, BMW Fluid PN 83220397244, about $40/qt at local BMW dealer. It is GL-4 fluid but proprietary juice, so you are stuck with this juice! Drain/Fill bolts: 16-mm with washers. I re-used the washers.

* Make sure you mark the Hex key with Sharpie at let’s say 1cm deep, this way you know the hex key is fully inserted into the bolts to avoid stripping it! Clean the inside of the Hex Fill/Drain Bolts to allow the hex key to be fully inserted.

* You need an Iron Pipe for added leverage on the ratchet.


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For those who are new to BMW X-drive, this is what it looks like:


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* You can do gravity fill but you need long hose. A friend told me to use the Suction Gun ($15 at auto parts store), so I gave it a try, it actually worked great.
- Avoid the "Pump Tool" because it tends to fall apart after a few uses. So best is to use "Suction Gun".
- When using "Suction Gun", after sucking the fluid, plug the end with your finger to prevent spill. Make sure you have cardboard, newspaper to absorb the spill on the driveway.
- Pay attention to what system you are filling, making sure you fill with the correct fluid. It is very easy to get distracted and fill with incorrect fluid.
- Make sure you can undo the FILL bolt before removing the DRAIN bolt for obvious reasons!
- Fill the fluid until it drips out of the FILL hole, then install the FILL bolt.


PROCEDURE:

1. Car on wood ramps on level surface, in 1st Gear (or Park for those with A.T.); apply Parking Brake.
Chock the wheels if possible.


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2. The PLASTIC SHIELD is held by these bolts, screws, pay attention to which is which!


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3. The METAL SHIELD: you must re-install it once done!!!
- This is because the Swaybar Endlink is held down by the same 16-mm bolts/nuts.
- You need to counter-hold the nut while undoing the 16-mm bolts.
- If you decide to leave the METAL SHIELD out to monitor fluid leak, I am thinking using some big washers and re-install the 6 bolts/nuts.-
- Support the METAL SHIELD with a jack, then lower it to the ground.


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4. I do the FRONT and REAR Diff together because it is the same fluid.
- You will need a 14-mm Hex socket. I used 1/2-inch ratchet with Iron Pipe for extra leverage. Again, make sure the Hex key is fully inserted.
- Clean the inside of the Drain/Fill plugs to be sure the socket is fully seated before undoing or tightening it. Failure to do so can result to stripping the Hex head!
- Mark the 14-mm Hex socket with Sharpie so you know it is fully seated before loosening or tightening it!

Front Diff:


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Rear Diff, fluid still golden color at 115K miles:


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5. Man Trans ---> 8-mm Hex:


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6. Transfer Case is a challenge because the FILL bolt was very very tight. I almost stripped it!
I had to use a Propane Torch to heat the FILL bolt for a good minute (keep flame away from the White Plastic Cup nearby!). Then the FILL bolt came loose.


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That is all boys and girls, routine maintenance goes a long way. Not sure if these fluid changes prolong the life of these parts but what the heck, they recommend these fluid changes at 100K anyway.



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Nicely presented. The consensus, I believe, is to use RedLine D4 ATF in our manual trannies rather than the MT-90. I wasn't set up to do mine personally at the time, so I had a shop [UUC, who makes the short shift kit] do mine when they installed the SSK. They used D4, at my request, and added the tube version of Liqui Moly antifriction to the diffs [I'm not sure if same was added to the transfer case]. It may just be wishful thinking or placebo effect, but I noticed smoother drivetrain performance after. Also, many recommend using magnetic drain plugs, a nice touch if you plan to drive the X5 long term, as I do. Nice visual presentation and tips on the job!

That, is a photo tour!

:thumbup:

My cousin owns a BMW indy shop in L.A. area and he uses Redline exclusively.

In terms of viscosity:

- Redline D4 ATF ---> somewhat thin (basically Dexron-III type)
- Redline MTL ---> a bit thicker
- Redline MT-90 ---> a bit thicker

I use Redline MT-90 because I want the thicker fluid. In fact, I used this in my 1998 BMW 528i 5sp for almost 10 years, very nice shift, even in the winter.

The Redline D4 ATF is basically Dexron-III type for Auto Trans, but you can use it for the M.T. too. In fact, the Volvo 240 years ago used Dexron-III in their M.T. Later they switched to 75W90 type GL-4 fluid because the Dexron-III type is a bit too thin for the protection of the M.T.

So the consensus according BMW enthusiasts is Redline MT-90 for M.T. Go to E39 forum and you will see. This is a heavy truck, so thicker fluid, IMHO, offers better protection.

Great DIY!

I had my fluids changed around 62k when I bought my X5 just for peace of mind, I have 74k now.

Used Redline D4 ATF in the transfer case (OK for pre-facelift as its not proprietary like Xdrive TC in facelift), MTL in Manual Trans, and 75w-90 Redline in the diffs.

Don't forget to reset the X-drive adaptation when you change the BMW Unicorn juice out. Makes a difference in smoothness (and tells the X-drive that there is new fluid in there).

Like manna falling from the heavens! Nice DIY! I'm gearing up to do this on the X5 and X3. (Que the old "double-mint gum" commercial....) Thanks man. :thumbup:

I went with the RL D4 last time, and was nice at first, but felt thin after it was broke in. RL-MTL is on my list but i may have to look at the MT-90. I deal with some pretty cold temps where I live, so my big concern is winter performance.

Hey Ryan,

No issues with winter on the MTL in my gearbox here. You see even colder temps than me, the MTL should work fine for you or MT-90, although the MT-90 might be a little notchier until the gearbox is warmed up.

I have used MT-90 in my E39 for 8 years, cold Nebraska weather, zero issues.

The Transfer case FILL bolt: it was so tight, I almost stripped it. So heat it if you think it is on too tight. On re-installation, I put a tiny dab of antiseize of the FILL bolt to make it easier next time.

PS @Green-Dragon, How is your Schmiedmann Custom SSK doing?

So after reading this post I decided to call a few shops to see what they would quote me for flushing the fluids. I called two different Curry's Auto service, and to my surprise one told me all fluids are "lifetime" so they won't even service that. The other said that the transfer case uses fluid from the transmission (manual), so they have to flush the transmission as well. I was only planning on doing the front/rear differentials and the transfer case, so I'm a bit confused now. I think I will trust my independent mechanic and buy the fluids and have him change them. Any suggestions? I'm in Alexandria Virginia by the way