Oil filter always comes out crushed?
 

Makes me keep double checking I have the correct filter.......

The old filters always come out looking twisted and crushed, this can't be good for flow?

attached photo

Weird. What filters are you using?

Mann HU 925/4 x
2004 X5 3.0l
This doesn't happen to anyone else??

Where do you buy the filter from?

advanced auto, Bavarian autosports

Have you tried using an OE filter?

Buy one and see if it is the same length as the ones you have. If not, perhaps they are counterfeit. Filters are a target for counterfeit part suppliers.

I thought Mann was OE?

Mann is OEM. OE is BMW. And counterfeiters are not uncommon.

This is an example of what you are up against if you believe claims made on the internet. If you have the ability to inspect the parts and determine if they are authentic when you receive them, not so big a problem. But this supplier would like to sell this exact copycat X5 Mann filter to anyone who wants to put it in a Mann box and resell it. Note the warranty (8 million miles) and the price (down to $0.50 piece price depending on volume). They will put it in a custom cardboard carton to the purchaser's spec. But it does claim ISO 9001 and excellent filtration quality from imported filter paper. Right.

I should point out that reputable online suppliers may not know what they are selling, they may just have gone for a lower supplier price.

Cartridge Lube Oil Filter For BMW HU925/4X, View Cartridge Lube Oil Filter, DSF Product Details from Dongguan Dongsheng Filter Co., Ltd. on Alibaba.com

One reason to buy from a dealer is security of the supply chain. Isn't always worth it, but it is worth thinking about.

I got an oil change done by the dealer last year ,and when I did the oil change this year my filter looked exactly the same, twisted . on the filter was stamped bmw with the part number.

I did a search out of interest. Ford GT40 apparently uses the exact same filter. The GT40 boards report seeing Mann filters that are taller than the original filters, and which come out crushed as described above. Hmmm.

That's very odd. I've been changing my own oil since my free maintenance expired and have never seen the filter looking like that. I've use the OE BMW filter as well as Mann filter (mostly Mann filter as of late)...no issue whatsoever.

JCL does make a good point...as inexpensive as the filter is, it's not worth the risk of getting a counterfeit. I will buy oil filters from the dealers from now on.

The Mann catalogue says that this filter should be 104 mm tall.

The first Amazon listing I checked, which showed a picture of what is purportedly a Mann green and yellow box, said the filter is 109 mm tall. Yeah, that sounds good. If they can't get the exterior dimensions the same, what is the likelihood that they got the micron spec of the filter media correct?

The Mann counterfeit issues have been resolved by Mann company.

I use Mahle oil filter (order from autohausaz.com), zero problems.

Somebody should tell those Chinese manufacturers of filters. AutoBlog reported on an estimated $45 billion in counterfeit auto parts sales in China in 2011 (not just filters, but predominantly PM items like filters, plugs, brake pads, etc). The US FTC estimated sales of $12 billion in 2013, not just from China.

One significant issue was resolved by Mann some years back. All filter companies face ongoing challenges with counterfeiters.

My last one came out like that! However the latest filter I installed should be fine.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

buy your filters at the dealership...I paid 24$ for mine and that's pretty inexpensive considering you only change it twice or three times a year..
I always buy filters and gaskets from the dealer...

my filter was installed by a bmw dealer ,and when I took it out it was twisted.

What did the dealer say when you discussed it with him?

Any chance it wasn't an OE filter, despite the logo on it?

Any chance the dealer missed doing the filter?

Following this with interest.

For what it's worth, I use the same filter for my oil changes and have not seen that yet.

Aside the very valuable comments about measuring length and checking for counterfeit filters, there is another element. With this system, sometimes the filter doesn't fully seat on the upper or lower perch. This would crush it. Similarly - some have a felt-like material ring to seal the upper and/or lower bore. I found on my mother-in-law's Opel (same system as BMW), that the bottom felt ring could come off and remain in the bottom of the filter cartridge canister. I removed it and found that the replacement cartridge seated perfectly in place. Also check the internal O-rings for swelling or distortion. I do this on my X5 3.0 diesel (also canister insert cartridge).

I am the original poster. I clean out the filter holder and the bottom of the housing very well every time.
Those that are questioning me and the authenticity of my Mann filters - your filters don't come out twisted and crushed???

"...your filters don't come out twisted and crushed???"


I have changed the oil on our '01 3.0 a half dozen+ times, (yearly, whether it needs it or not), and have had it done the past few years at Indy in Asheville. I have used OE filters from dlr or Mahle & Mann, and Indy uses Mahle, Mann and OE, depending on time/supply...I have never seen the filter come out of my X looking like that.
It's either a counterfeit copy or a mfg'ng error...my guess is copy.
GL, mD

FWIW, I order up filters from various places like AutoHausAz. Never did had any issue with the Mahle, Mann and Hengst equivalents. Aka, stuff like the charcoal filters are considerably cheaper than the OEM (even with the 15% etc discount).

However, if I'm ordering parts from the dealer, in which I'm paying a shipping fee already......the oil filters are not that much more in price than the aftermarket discounters..

How could one tell a counterfeit Mann filter from a real Mann filter?

The counterfeit filter influx got so bad last year, BMW dealers in the Middle East had them in their parts supply chain (go to a BMW dealer, buy a filter, get a knockoff).

I only use dealer supplied filters.

I just thought it was normal until I read this thread. so I haven`t talked to the dealer yet. I`m curious when I change my oil next year how the filter is going to look like . I got an bmw oem filter from ecs tuning last month. I`ll let you guys know then.(if I remember lol).

I kinda thought it was normal too until hearing not everyones looks as mine does........
I find it hard to imagine that every filter I have bought (at least 6 oil changes) has been counterfeit. They have always come out looking crushed. I tried emailing Mann and sending them the photo, but email did not go through with or without the photo attached.

You need to get Genuine BMW filter, BMW OEM is not the same filter.

heres the filter i got
11427512300 - Oil Filter Kit - ES#24008

I normally buy my filters from the dealer although I have used Mann and Hengst. I haven't had a problem with any of them or seeing a twisted or crushed filter. Almost looks like when tightening the filter down, it is getting caught on something and as you twist, the filter is twisting as well. Just my $.02

That's the best filter, made to BMW specs.

BMW OEM can be made to a lower spec, could be trouble.

First, I'm assuming this "twisted filter" issue is with the 3.0 filters (some that have chimed in don't have a signature that reveals which X5 model they have :dunno: ). And if memory serves correct, I believe the m54, m62TU, n62, and m57 (for the Euro diesel owners out there) all use different oil filter cartridges...if this is so...is the issue occurring with the Mann and/or BMW oe filters that have a specific design (no hard top or bottom)?

I've noticed that the Mahle & Bosch oil filters for the M54 engine seem to have a solid plastic top/bottom that may help prevent this twisting phenomenon:

The original photo of the twisted filter is from a 2004 X5 3.0l, M54. it was a mann filter without hard topped. It has a flat top and bottom. I just replaced it with another Mann yesterday of the same number HU 925/4 x. This is the same filter I have been using for the last 6 or 7 years but this has all got me thinking to buy a dealer filter tomorrow!

Even though you haven't created a signature yet (you can do so by clicking the USER CP link at the top of the page...then clicking the EDIT SIGNATURE link along the left side of the page :) )...you did identify that you had the 3.0 engine...whereas some other members don't have a signature nor identified what engine/oil filter they use when the replied. :)

I'd still consider one of the filter brands that have the hard bottom & top if the BMW oe filter ends up twisting, too.

Also, make sure that the filter is being firmly attached to the lid BEFORE you screw it into the reservoir. There should be "teeth" designed into the lid that secures the filter...then once firmly seated into the lid...you screw both into the reservoir.

And also make sure that there's nothing on the bottom of the reservoir that may be "gluing" the bottom of the filter to the reservoir...the TWIST could possible be occurring only when removing the old filter...if it is getting stuck to the bottom over time (just a thought). :)

IMO, it isn't normal. It also isn't proof of a counterfeit filter, that is just one thing to check given the number of counterfeit filters being produced.

1) First thing to check is the installation. The filter has to be seated down, any old gasket or ring has to be removed or a crush zone can be created. You appear to have checked that already. Check the cap as well as the base, anything left there would create the same issue.

2) Second thing to check is the filter itself. Is it the same height, and does it have the same shape where it seats, as an OE filter. It doesn't have to be a height difference, the difference could be in the diameter where it seats.

3) Counterfeit filters are far too common. But even if it isn't counterfeit, there can be multiple filters with a published cross reference that may not be exact. The Mann catalog shows a discontinued filter (925/3) that was replaced by the 925/4. The 925/4 comes in two versions, one for BMW (925/4x) and one for Landrover and Volvo (925/4y). Same published dimensions. No information on whether the filter media (micron rating, durability, expected life) is the same or not. It might just be a different o ring. The ECS picture shows a BMW logo, but doesn't indicate an x or a y. It may be nothing, but the x may signify something. In my former business, we sold filters with 2 micron, 10 micron, and 20 micron ratings, just as an example. Different prices. Different purposes. All the same size and apparently the same filter. If you go just on price, or if a competitor is competing on price, those sorts of differences go out the window. We lost a filter tendered supply contract (1 year supply, it fit in a 40 foot container) for a good customer with a large fleet. A few months later, following up on a component failure, we tested the filtering performance. It was markedly different, and didn't meet our spec. The equipment was still under warranty, and the customer had been claiming warranty. It wasn't warrantable. He returned a truckload of filters to the other supplier. They weren't counterfeit, and they were a recognized name brand. They just weren't built with the same filter media, even though the dimensions, flow, and cross reference table all said they were the same. That is why buying an OEM filter (one made by someone who also makes filters for a company like BMW) isn't a guarantee of performance. Since BMW doesn't publish filter performance specs, we don't know if the Mann (or other filter) is as good as, or even better, than the OE filter.

4) I would buy an OE filter from the dealer, and try one. See if it is any different. Measure before installing, check markings, see if it is identical

5) Mann may have a small tolerance for production that allows filters of a slightly different height. Maybe this batch was 106 mm instead of 104 mm. Nothing against Mann, they make good filters, but if all the numbers check out, and the filter inspection, and the installation is correct, then maybe the filter is just too long for whatever reason.

6) Counterfeit parts are a real problem. I worked with a different major brand of heavy equipment, and we had counterfeit parts showing up, from China and India. With fuel system components we had blatant knockoffs coming out of China. They did not last at all. With the filters, if we had an engine crater, we looked for the root cause of failure. If we found a non-original filter, broken apart and not filtering (or worse, blocking oil flow) then we tracked back to see where it came from. Sometimes it was obvious (Motorcraft filters that said Motocraft on them, for example, or Cat filters that were the wrong colour yellow) Sometimes you had to cut a filter open, that appeared correct, to find what was actually inside it. The best defence (and it isn't 100%, but it is a good strategy) is to deal with reputable suppliers. I would put ECS in that reputable category. But if the problem occurred back at the distributor level, then the retailer may not even be aware. As noted above, BMW has found counterfeit filters in their dealers. We found counterfeit parts in our stock (not at a BMW dealer) that had been returned for full credit (we caught them). The challenge is that consumers (and suppliers) have been conditioned to look for the lowest price and sometimes assume that everything is right if the box has the correct name on it.

Jeff

The direction of the twist would appear to indicate that it happens when the filter is installed, not removed.

It could be as simple as the wrong o ring, if a smaller o ring allows the cap to be tightened down further.

I replace the O ring each time with the one Mann gives, tighten to the specified torque with a quality torque wrench.

Why I am not panicking and towing my car to the dealer is - I have been crushing them for years and never had a oil pressure light come on. NOT that I don't want to do the right thing and glad I am investigating this.....

Would love to hear from one of the BMW mechanics on here to say how many come out crushed and if/how much it affects performance of the filter

I wouldn't panic if it was my own vehicle. But I would do an investigation, out of interest, to see what was causing it.

I don't know how to quantify how much it impacts performance of the filter, unless the filter has separated at the ends. It is just something that doesn't look right.

Ah...very good observation. :thumbup:

And I agree with your other statement, too. The image of the filter in the 1st post doesn't show that the filtering media has been ripped, torn, collapsed, or crushed in any way...so that would indicate that there probably wasn't' any diminished filtering capacity...but the twist does look visually odd and indicates some kind of binding at the top or bottom when reinstalling the filter & lid.

Very, very interesting.

Mahle vs Mann
 

I have used Mann for years but recently switched to Mahle.
Just order a whole bunch of stuff from autohausaz.com, as long as > $75, shipping is FREE.

I put together a photo of Mahle vs Mann, you can see that the Mahle is better constructed in my opinion:

One thing to mention......I pour almost a quart of new oil onto/into the filter before screwing it down - so the engine is not starved at start up after oil change. (I am reaching here....) Maybe the paper swells thus causing the twist....

The filter media has to stand up to hot oil for 15,000 miles, so five minutes of cold oil isn't going to damage it.

It it swelled or burst or collapsed from oil pressure or lack of support structure, it would be in the middle of the length. Since it shows a definite spiral twist in the direction of tightening it indicates either too long, over tightening, or lack of lubrication on the filter ends during initial tightening, IMO.

Does that Mahle have more pleats and therefore more surface area for the filtering media?

Does the Mann have thicker filtering media?

Appears so from the photo, but hard to tel without having both side by side.

@kevinkay,

How many miles on that filter?

BTW, I replace oil/filter every 5K-6K. If you leave the filter in there long enough, you will have issues.

I am embarrassed to say......I don't know. I go by the maintenance bars - always on the last green bar. My car has never seen a red bar or "service engine".

Do NOT go by green bars. I use green bars only as a reminder to do "something".

I make my own spread sheet of maintenance (air filter, oil filter, spark plugs etc.) and stick to my spread sheet.

The filter you showed is classic of one that has way over 10K miles. E39 forums have some photos similar to yours.


http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/att...hmentid=189360

Thickness of the media (for example) has little to do with filtering capability. Paper filters are micron-rated, but it is only an approximate rating.

As the paper filter is a "labyrinth" filter, there is no constant and consistent way to measure the ACTUAL filtering ability, as the paper is formed as a random pressing of the pulp fibres.

As such, it will have channels through the filter media that are both larger and smaller than the micron rating.

The micron rating is obtained as (basically) an average of a given number of passes through the filter. That a particle of X size will likely be trapped if it passes through the filter up to Y number of times.

Back on topic a little - that twisted filter is too long. Happens all the time with aftermarket filters of this type. Won't hurt the filtration potential, but won't help it either.

My last four BMW vehicles have been fine at up to 24,000 km oil change intervals. Filters were fine. I did it then and didn't leave it the 28,000 km the lights were calling for on one vehicle.

I did an oil change 2 days ago. Usually my oil filter comes out easily and in a normal shape, but this time it was a bit collapsed on the supporting cone and since that supporting piece has ridges on it, it was impossible to slip the filter out. I had to destroy the filter with my fingers (N62 engine, not a lot of space).

I do my oil changes at 12000km (7200mi) and use only Mobil1 0W40 and filters from my local dealer.

It's like there has been too much suction from the oil pump... weird.

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b5...mer/filter.jpg

I like the plastic construction on the top/bottom of the Mahle filters.

Will stick to Mahle on my future oil changes, I have one Mann left on the shelf

I wonder if this is "normal"on 4.8
Mine looked even worse at the last oil change...had to take it out in pieces ...
We shall see how the new filter from the dealer looks at the next oil change which is due this week...I've already put 9000 miles on this filter since February
I'm gonna try liqui Molly 5-40 this time instead of the 5-30 BMW synthetic
Want to see the difference if any..

DO you make sure you "snap" it in all the way into the cap first before putting it in?

This is the key. Same setup on my 1998 E36. One time I had a shop do it, it came out like this. Never again. You need to "snap" the filter into the housing. Takes some pressure to seat it, but you'll hear it. Almost like it passes a detent and snaps to the housing. If you are unsure, measure the lowest point in the housing the filter should go, measure your filter length, mark it and make sure it seats to that point. Kind of like they do with PEX plumbing fittings. Once it's seated, then install. Shouldn't be an issue if you do that.

Good luck.

When you say "snap the filter into the housing" ... do you mean the lid or the reservoir? I ask because all my filters snap into the lid (at least for the m62/m62tu/n62)...then I screw the lid w/filter into the reservoir.

The "snap in place" is for both filter in the cap or underneath like the 4.8is. You can actually feel it ride/slide over the tabs to seat in the housing.

I can't recall if mine ever "snap" into place, how hard of a push does it need?
And the force of screwing it down would not seat it?

If the filter is dropped into canister and the lid screwed down on it, slight misalignment can cause the filter to not snap into lid. Crushed/deformed/damaged filter can be the end result. I always snap the filter into the cap, always comes out still snapped in place and undamaged.

The cap/lid im talking about. Grab the lid in your palms and use fingers to squeze in the filter, keep pushing untill you feel it snap, takes a somewhat medium amount of pressure.

All I can say is WOW. I just looked at the OP. It's at least 1/3 shorther than where it should be......

OP, I don't see it in the thread, but have you tried just a OEM filter as a baseline for the next OCI ?

the rest of the story.........
 

So this has been on my mind since I started this thread.
Bought a true "BMW" oil filter and pulled out the Mann and thought I waisted $10 for this experiment as the BMW filter was still longer than the "crushed" mann (see photo).

BUT.......those that spoke about the "snap" were correct. I never pushed my filter into the cap and heard that snap until now. I think my filters were always sitting on the circular frame of the top of the cap. This time when it snapped I pulled it back out and saw the mark where it fits into that frame. Weird that the force of screwing down the cap never snapped it in??
THANKS to all that gave there input.
Kinda feeling like an idiot that I have been doing this for years......

thanks for the update,something to look out for when doing a oil change.

I'm just chiming in on this thread to note that the last filter I installed was a Mahle-Knecht filter from AutohausAZ. Changing my oil and filter this evening and am having a terrible time trying to get that filter out. I was pulling pretty forcefully and couldn't get the old one to come out, so I resorted to cutting through the hard plastic end cap, then tore out the paper filter portion and now am left with the other plastic cap stuck down in the oil filter cap. Some have advocated for this type of filter with the hard ends, but I won't be buying another one after this experience. Now to figure out how to get the rest of the old filter out.

Most here ONLY recommend using Genuine BMW filters, these have the plastic end caps and snap out without issues.

Buy OEM or aftermarket and you're rolling the dice.

I can appreciate that some will only ever buy things stamped BMW, but bear in mind that for some items the only thing genuine is the stamp itself. BMW certainly doesn't manufacture every component and fluid they put into their vehicles. Also, if you read through the entire thread, it would appear that there is a certain amount of dice rolling when buying from the dealership anyway.

In the picture above, the Mann filter looks very similar to the BMW filter, without plastic end caps. The Mahle filter has hard plastic caps on the ends.

So....I started this thread and had gone back to say the BMW filter "snapped" in further, well.....did the oil filter housing gasket a couple of weeks ago and checked on that "genuine BMW" filter and it was just as crushed and twisted as the Mann filters I used to use.
I can't figure out why, really searched to see if anything was holding it up either in the cap or the housing and can't see anything.
Thanks to those that have said they have seen the same, at least I am not alone.

Just to clear things up, Genuine BMW filters on the 3.0i do NOT have end caps.

Has anyone looked to see if a piece of an old filter is in there. I've seen that happen with aftermarket filters. That would explain your problem. V-8 filters snap into the top cover the 6 cylinders don't.

Anything within the filter cover should be pretty obvious, at least I would think. When you look down into the cover there should be nothing surrounding the little cage that the filter slides on to.

I had installed one of the Mahle filters with the hard plastic ends and had a terrible time getting it out. Ended up ripping out all the filter media then drilling holes into the hard end cap that was stuck inside the cover until it was weak enough to break out. Of course, because of all of that, I ended up having to wash out the cover and thoroughly drying it out with a heat gun. Way too involved for an oil/filter change.

Then I installed a Mann filter (without the hard plastic ends) and when I pressed on it, it did actually snap in. I never noticed the filters being twisted like the OPs, but will watch for that now.

I love my X5, but this filter and filter cover design leaves a lot to be desired. I had a couple Mercedes prior to this and much prefer the canister design of those filters. And the filter housings and covers aren't plastic like these.

There may be some non critical parts for which that is true, but certainly not oil filters. Reference the PPAP (production part approval process) defined by AIAG and utilized by BMW and many others. Google PPAP. BMW controls every part and fluid put into their vehicles. The use of suppliers requires defined processes, both in the planning stage and later in production.

Yes, undoubtedly. I'm not suggesting that BMW does not have internal quality control over the components that go into their vehicles. They qualify external vendors who supply them with those components. That being said, those vendors are also capable of supplying the same quality components/fluids to other retailers (or selling them directly). Obviously there is a vast range of quality when it comes to aftermarket or OEM parts. The discriminating consumer knows the difference or eventually learns the difference. But to suggest that buying OE "BMW" components from the dealer is the only way to get quality materials would be misleading.

Hey guys read this post and see what I was talking about then check yours. Post 10. I've seen this before.

What is wrong with this oil filter? - E46Fanatics

OH MY GOD.
first of all, thank you - a photo speaks a thousand words.
I ran out and checked, and yes I have a metal donut sized ring at the top of the cover PLUS another one at the bottom of the filter housing.

MY DEFENSE - I have never had new filters that had metal ends, the Mann nor the "official BMW" filter I bought from FCP euro do not have metal ends and thus I thought the "plates" at the bottom and top were purposely there. Check my photos - no metal ends.

THANK YOU!!!!!

I have done tons of oil changes on BMWs using either Mann or Mahle oil filters.
Synthetic oil every 5K-6K.
Never had any of these issues mentioned in this thread.

When I started reading this thread I had both my filters on my amazon wish list. After reading a bit, I drove to the dealer and purchased them there. Why take a chance over 10-15 bucks.

Oil filter always comes out crushed?
 

Was changing oil my N62 (v8) and had a BMW and Mann filter to compare. The BMW is labeled Hengst E203H, Mann HU715 / 5x

Overall observations:
BMW: solid plastic top end, main length exact match, top has extra soft donut ring that not present on the Mann, bottom plastic edge is shorter than the Mann. BMW o-rings come in a sealed bag while the Mann bag has pinholes in it.

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14...4dc89bd951.jpghttp://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14...a719900aba.jpghttp://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14...5be574d89f.jpghttp://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14...b7b6cda699.jpg

This is all terribly interesting to me given an experience I had this Spring. I changed the oil in my 2004 3.0 for ~99,000 miles across 7 years. I started at every 3k miles and eventually to 5k. That's probably better than 25 times.

I never saw this.

I've also changed the oil on my wife's '02 330 (same M54- filter anyway) for about the same 92k miles across 12 years.

I never saw it there, either.

And then, there's the M62 in my E39. 14 years and (only) 57k miles. Once again, never saw it.

So imagine my surprise (and genuine wonder) almost 4 years ago when I discovered that the N62 in my '04 4.8is requires me to crawl under the silly car for the filter change. I never have liked that and I still don't understand it.

I've changed it about every 5k miles. It's just shy of a big 6-0k miles. Before I went on my big, 6k mile trip, I was at the Indy for a pre-trip checkup, and I had some oil for my next at home change. They asked if I wanted to change it, they'd use my oil and charge me for the filter I had yet to buy. Can't beat that, so I let 'em do it.

Hey, look at this, the kid said.

It was not only crushed, it was nearly ripped in half! Now, I do *not* know if that was from the removal or what, but I had never, not ever seen THAT. I had used the Fram oil filter I had gotten 'free' when I purchased Castrol Syntec at the auto parts store.

I decided right then that I would not use any more of the 3 or 4 FRAM filters I had. But now I wonder....

Was something stuck up in there? Hrmmmmm...

My last oil change was this Summer in Boise, Idaho after running my X5 along some really dusty Colorado mountain 'roads'. I've since driven home across country and am just right at 60k miles.

This thread makes me want to go out, check the filter, and do an oil change as the first step in my big 60k miles preventative maintenance-a-palooza.

I am the one that finally found the left over "donut" in the cover and bottom of the housing and have been crushing my filters for the past 6 years. I have an M54 and use Mann HU 925/4 x which does not have a top or bottom rim nor does the official "BMW" filter I got from FCP.
SO - at some point the dealer used a filter that had a metal bottom and top (yet the "real BMW" M54 filter I bought did not have the metal rims??) and because I never used a filter with a metal or plastic top or bottom rim - I never looked for them left behind.
my "2 cents"
1. thanks for the input that solved this for me
2. Everyone should check the bottom and top of the filter housing to see if there is a left over rim even if your new filter does not have one.

attached photo of the "BMW" filter from FCP. and end cap left over (not my photos).

Junkycosmos,

Great post! BMW filter construction looks like the better filter to me.

And, there is more there than meets the eye that is also very important. I have purchased many aftermarket parts that have been better than OE but in this case I think the wiser decision is to use OE filter. I think BMW is the source that has the greatest vested interest in offering what works best and the most knowledge about what the engine needs. The following is one of the short stories: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gwliuNGflV4

Love the "Extra Parts" everyone is finding. Thanks guys for sharing the solution to a problem that should have never happend in the first place. Really sad to see us owners "fixing" past issues. REALLY GLAD to see that no failures happend to anyone.

Heads up to everyone. Check everything when doing an oil change. Everyone who has worked on others cars see weird stuff all the time. Like wrenches still hanging on suspension parts, Shop rags inside of intakes, and my best memory, a factory sand casting part left inside an alum intake manifold completely blocking one intake port. Car was in the shop for "poor performance". Yea, like one dead cylinder....

Scary thread, for sure. I'm due for my next change and will certainly look for suspicious donuts in the filter canister. Didn't notice any at my last change, and don't recall ever using a filter with a cap on the end for a bimmer [E28, E36, and E39 sixes before the current E53/M54 six .....]. And yes, StephenVA, I use the opportunity roll around under the vehicle on a creeper looking for oddities. When I 'turned' the transfer case actuator wheel a couple weeks back, I used the opportunity to check out the guibos and view the shiny new shift parts that went in with my SSK and CDV delete .... I think mine's previous owners babied it; looks like a new vehicle under there.

Very true, when installing the filter onto the cage, make sure it sits all the way down before tightening onto the housing. Also I don't tighten the filter into a dry housing, I do a partial fill of the housing with clean oil before installing the filter + cap. This may give the felt cover on the filter a little lubricant before torquing down the cap.

:iagree: +1

Very true, when installing the filter onto the cap,( I get a snap/click,) make sure it sits all the way down before tightening the assembly onto the housing. Also I don't tighten the filter into a dry housing, I do a partial fill of the housing with clean oil before installing the filter + cap. This may give the felt cover on the filter a little lubricant before torquing down the cap.

I still heard a "snap" even though there was a metal donut left in there. If you don't know to look for it - I thought it was just the end stop of the housing