Replacing tension struts and ball joints today
 

So - I've been sitting on these parts for a little over 2 months now. I've decided today is the day and I am about to start.

One thing I cannot find is the proper torque values for this stuff. I've been searching the forum and cannot find some of the stuff I found a couple months ago

I did find some of my handwritten notes from May. Does anyone know if this is right?

For the two bolts (each) that hold the ball-joint to the wheel carrier - 44#

For the single bolt that holds the tension strut to the ball joint. 59#

How about the bolt that runs through the big fat bushing? (Once the car is back on the ground and the suspension is "loaded")

Wish me luck.

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/08/09/9y7avany.jpg

I'll take pics and try to document the process as much as possible.

Stupid ball joint.....grrrrrrr

Can't get it out yet.

Do you have a pickle fork? They come in handy when it comes to dealing with ball joints.

Go to the tool store on Harlem just north of I55 or to your local Auto part store and buy, rent or borrow a ball joint removal tool.

Or get a BFG and hit the knuckle where the ball joint goes into the strut, not a wimpy ball peen hammer or a carpenter hammer, but a 5 to 10 pound sledge hammer.

I do have one. However I am past that point. I've got the joint popped off the arm ( and loosely reassembled) I am having a hard time getting the joint out of the knuckle.

I've tried air chisel, BFH, twisting it with a chisel. No go. That MF'er is stuck.....

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/08/10/tase7a6y.jpg

View from below with the tension strut removed. http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/08/10/zaraga9a.jpg

View from above. You can see where I've been air chiseling on it. http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/08/10/tyme6yha.jpg

You're taking about those expanding jaw type ball-joint-poppers right?

I've tried re-assembling it loosely and BFH'ing on the old strut to try and pull the joint out of the socket. No wimpy hammer here! It's one of those hand-held sledge hammers - maybe 2-3 pounds?

Been reading other threads on this topic. Looks like I am not alone - some have it easy - some not. I am a bit reluctant to use heat on it. Lots of rubber around, etc - I don't want to ruin anything. I assume you try and heat the knucke-casting rather than the balljoint itself?

Sorry you're having trouble, this is why I don't bother to screw around with front end components on any vehicles. Without the right tools you'll get yourself in a bind where you can't go back, IMHO it's easier and cheaper to pay my Indy mechanic and let him deal deal with that crap...lol!

I had this issue. Like others have said, refit the arm (and put the nut back on the balljoint) and hit the hell out of the arm with a sledgehammer. I found it best to support the other end of the arm on an axle stand. The ball joint WILL come out like this but you do need to hit the arm VERY hard with a BIG sledgehammer.

Okay - I have an idea. I am going to run to the hardware store and get a couple studs that will screw into the two holes you see - maybe 3 inches long or so. Get a couple nuts for it as well. Take a small piece of angle iron (maybe 3-4 inches long?) and put three holes in it.

2 small ones to run the studs through - and one big one in the middle to run the big stud through.

Secure the angle iron to the studs with a couple nuts, then, use the original nut on the big stud to "pull" the joint out of the socket?

Worth a shot I guess.....

I just loosely re-installed the big-end in it's original position with the long-bolt and nut. You think releasing it from there makes a difference? Seriously willing to try anything at this point.....

Okay. Maybe hitting it here is the right way to go. I was hitting it closer to the joint itself. http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/08/10/na2aqe9a.jpg

Yeah baby!!!! Thanks for the tip!!!!http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/08/10/rura3e7y.jpg

Well I guess that's one way of supporting the other end of the arm. You may damage the long bolt though when you sledgehammer the arm. That's why I supported that end of the arm on an axle stand. That and the fact that I couldn't get a good swing with the sledgehammer with the arm in that position. Took about 5 hard bangs with the sledgehammer (and I mean a sledgehammer with a 4 foot handle) to get the balljoint out. That's after I'd spent an hour with pickle forks, air tools etc trying to bash the joint out from the top.

Yay - good result.

Wear some safety shoes though dude. You could be in a world of pain with a mis-placed hit ;)

Bad habit - I know. Just ask me about the time I accidently kicked a drill that was laying on the floor and broke the little drill bit off in the top of my foot.

.....or the time I was welding and got some splatter on the top of my foot.

Well - I am done! The first side took me many hours - but after I learned the proper technique with the BFH I had the other side done in maybe 20 minutes! The secret as suggested in this thread is to get the arm horizontal with the big-end supported by a jack stand - then you have plenty of swinging room with the BFH to really clobber it!!!

Thanks for the help. I can't wait to take it for a ride now!

As you can see - the old bushings were pretty much smoked after 110k miles! Hard to tell what kind of shape the ball joints were in though. I replaced them as well.
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/08/10/pa7ugu4u.jpg

Huge difference!!!!! 👍👍

No more clumping and thunking from the front end! (Now it's all from the rear!)

You got lucky with that technique. I ended up taking the assembly (loose) to a shop and let them get the parts out. Major PITA.

Awesome

I always recommend replacing the ball joints when doing the thrust arms as well, for the added $65-70 in parts to replace them its much easier than trying to "save" the original joints and having to be more careful with the BFH.

Agreed. I did replace the balljoints. I also got a good reminder today that's it's very important to use quality parts - especially on suspension items. I got a picture from a friend where the balljoint on his Chevy snapped. He had it replaced about 5 months ago. He's lucky it was at low speed - he was getting ready to get on the highway with his kid in the car.

Look at this BS cast material. Looks like it was made from old soup cans.

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/08/10/va4y3anu.jpg