X5 4.8is N62 valve cover removal
 

In the process of replacing valve cover gaskets and started with driver side. Having a bit of trouble lifting and removing cover. Do I need to drain the coolant and remove the heater valve assembly with hoses from that side, as well as disconnect the fuel
Line. Just thinking that this seems very difficult to remove.

Any thoughts

I remember reading something about the adjuster unit bolts having to be removed before the cover can be lifted off. The adjuster's mounting tabs are supposed to be very fragile though.

I have not done this myself (yet, it's on my list as I have the parts here already) but from the DIY I think that is what I remember being what holds the valve cover from coming straight off easily.

Hopefully someone more experienced can chime in for you.

I had similar clearance issues with mine. I just moved the hose mess out of the way a bit. No need to disassemble. Just remove the fasteners that hold it down to the fender well and you'll get a couple inches of movement in there. Enough to remove the cover.

Clearance is pretty tight. Don't break an "ear" on the sensor at the rear of the valve cover (like me). I broke one ear and ended up sticking the wire-down with a little RTV.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

^Good deal, that was what I was referring to... not the adjuster. Knew I read something about fragile tabs or ears in there.

I unhinged the heater valve from the bracket, but still was not enough room, I will try to remove the bracket and try that. I read that the fuel injection pipe may need to be removed which has the fuel hose located on top by valve cover, anymore had to do this.

I had all of the fuel injection stuff and the intake removed when I did mine. I was also doing the valley-pan at the same time - so cannot comment on the ease of removal with all of that stuff in place.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes. I also removed the bracket itself now that I think about it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

To remove the right Valve cover, first you have to take off the upper trim around the brake fluid reservoir & brake booster. Then you have to take off the lower cam sensor. Then you bleed the coolant, and take off the heater hoses & heater valve. then you take off the "hook" that keep the 2 heater hoses from the heater core to the heater valve. Look up this post, and scroll down. It's explained.
Then you should have no issues.

Good luck

P.S.: To re-install the valve cover, after you replaced the gasket, here is how to do it in one shot, without issues:

Put gasket maker around the halfmoons (rear) and around the 2 spots where the upper timing gasket mate with the cylinder head (in your case bank2). I would also change the upper timing gasket(s) together with the solenoid seals & vacuum pump seal (bank#1) prior to this.

Once the bead of gasket maker is laid, and the new VCG is on the cover, place the spark plug pipes in their place. Lube both ends, and also lube the inner part of the valve cover where they will go in. Then slide the cover behind the eccentric shaft sensor (Attention fragile). Push the valve cover in. Take a hammer or a piece of wood (long), place on the lower part of the cover (where you won't break any plastic ridges - hammer handle is best), and tap gently with a rubber mallet so as the cover will seat properly on the lower half (You might have to guide/make sure that the spark plug pipes are in the correct position), Then, screw in the long bolt that is closest to the firewall.
Then screw in the 4 short bolts/nuts at the bottom. Then you switch sides and screw in the longer bolts/nuts on top. Then you screw in the last 4 long bolts at the front. All this, without tightening them down. Once this done, screw them starting from the back, to the front. the tightening torque is 10NM for the 5 long bolts and 15 NM for the 8 bolts/nuts at the lower & upper perimeter. So use 10 NM for ALL, then once this is achieved, tighten the perimeter ones at 15 NM.

X5 4.8is N62 valve cover removal
 

Doru, thanks for the detail info, I will update

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14...57bbb69282.jpg

Just got left VC and timing cover off. A bit of challenge.

its a little bit of a b#$%^

make sure u change the valvtronic oring and pass through seal and your 4 cam sensor seals

I replaced all my spark plug tubes aswell
I would to if I were you
make sure you get the correct torque values and torque them properly you don't want to have to redo the job

Does any one know the procedure for the servo motor removal and install. I removed the left side and it popped off. I heard that in some cases the travel needs to be reset. All I am doing is changing the VC and timing cover gaskets

You need to take off the servomotors - you will have to install a new servomotor gasket (comes with the VCG kit), and a new O-ring (comes under the servomotor). Torque specs for the ISA screws is 6Nm, and they break easy. Hopefully you had them marked L/R, and also the position (the top has the electrical connector, and the electrical wire is only so long - goes in one way).
Once the job (VCG) is done, DON"T turn the engine on. You need to adjust the servotronics - you can do it 2 ways:

1. with software
2. manually

Assuming you don't have the software (again, once the job is done, and you are ready to drive), insert the key in the running position (pos II), but DON"T start the car. Wait about 1.5 - 2 minutes. If you keep the hood open, after a while you will hear the servo motors whirring and resetting in the correct position. Then you can turn the engine on.

What do you mean by the statement below. Screws from servo motors were not marked, I did not disassemble right side as yet, so I will reinstall left side motor similar to right side where connector is facing intake manifold

ISA screws is 6Nm, and they break easy. Hopefully you had them marked L/R, and also the position (the top has the electrical connector, and the electrical wire is only so long - goes in one way).

Wrote quickly:
mark Left & Right servotronics, not screws...

I just purchased new spark plug tubes Febi, they came with metal sleeves, the original ones removed did not have sleeves, should I remove the metal sleeves before installation

Removed right VC and disconnect Breather hose from VC to throttle body and saw this, partially clogged.

Thoughts

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14...1bffa51254.jpg

Just clean it as much as you can. You can't access the inside of the intake manifold. Maybe if you remove the intake manifold, and dismantle it (if you can & know how to).

X5 4.8is N62 valve cover removal
 

Completed VCG and front timing cover gaskets replacement. In addition I replaced all plugs with NGK Iridium, new Bosch coils. Turn key to allow servo motors to reset. Start X5 and it idles very rough and sounds like it is missing, check engine light is flashing. I can't connect with Peake. ( could not before VCG, shows E A6 11- not sure).

I am thinking the servo motors are not set correctly, any advise

Thanks

Any update on this? What did you find? I'm about to tackle VCG and noting down the gotchas so I don't make the same error. Thanks!

My servo motors reset by them selves. The correct way to remove them was to back off the 4mm screw on top of the motor, see Pelican article

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles.

That link takes one to an empty porche techarticles page. 4mm screw on top of the servo motor? I don't see any on top but on the sides. Mine is an N62 engine.

I found the correct link...:thumbup:
Pelican Technical Article - BMW E60 - N62 8 Cylinder Valvetronic Motor and Seal Replacement

I must say I'm amazed and surprised at the number of DIY articles specific to N62 engine in Pelican articles- valve covers, intake manifold, air cooled alternator, coolant pipe, water pump, thermostat, etc; and they're very detailed with lots of pictures! What a gold mine of info on the N62 engine DIY!!! They're not as common to come by as for the M62 engine.

Sorry , trying to post link with mobile phone is a bit of a pain

Yeah, the n62 isn't covered in our Bentley manual. Need to get the 5-series Bentley for n62 info (boo!)...

http://workshop-manuals.com.
It's a bit of work, but worth it as it is the original BMW manuals

I'm experiencing the same issues after doing the same repairs as you. How did you resolve the rough idle, missing and CEL? The codes I'm getting with GTI/INPA are P0021 and P0024 and random misfires.
Here's the thread I started for my issues:
http://www.xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-foru...-misfires.html

I used the pelican method for removing and installing the valvetronic motors and let them initialize before starting the engine.

You didn't need to brake the seal & back off the 4mm screw. If you unbolt the 4 ISA screws, and the valvetronic does not come out, you just start turning the valvetronic to unscrew it. You have to mark the position of it before, so when re-installing, it will bottom out in the same relative postion. There is only 1 out of 2 valvetronics that has to be unscrewed when doing the VCG job - the other will have the internal shaft backed out already and will come off as soon as the ISA screws are loose.

Thanks for the heads up on all the N62 info @ Pelican. I'll be doing this (among other things) soon.

Hey guys/gals,

After a very expensive 2014 for the X, I'm looking to save a little dough by doing more work myself. I recently got the SES light and bad vibration while driving and decided I should change my spark plugs and coils. I'm at 93XXX miles so I figured I would get that done a little early and hopefully fix things. Yesterday while pulling the coils the driver's side were tough but eventually worked them out. Got to the first one on the passenger's side and thought, "Wow that came out much more easily!" My joy was short lived when I noticed all the oil. I have seen threads of folks changing their own valve cover gaskets, but I'm a little gun shy. As stated, Bentley appears to be helpless for this.

MS1207 is everything normal now? Is the Victor Reinz set the one to go with?

A little miffed that this wasn't noticed when I took her in last year to diagnose an oil leak. Had alternator bracket and other seals changed.


Thanks,

Scott
'05 N62B48

I used Victor Reinz on my car and gasket itself is ok. But I should have not removed the grommets for the nuts. They are not good. I may have to replace it again. Because there is s little amount of leak from the valve cover still present if I use the car in a spirited pace. The grommets are too soft they are not pressing the cover with desired torque.

I had a bad experience with a VR valve cover gasket on my wife's 2002 M3. Factory BMW is the way to go here in my opinion.