sorry that happened. THe old gasket being 'torn' shouldnt affect the stint, as the sting is bypassing that section. So unless you didnt get it back enough, something is strange. but yea, you are gonna have to somehow cut it out. Id probably try some type of cutting tool, then somehow sand down the remaining glue residue.

I did talk to Jeff after pressure test (leaking from the weep hole at about 5 psi) and he said it did not work for me. I now understand how this would work...either the outer rim of the o-ring is complete in-place or you have to remove it...so a new 'o-ring' would be formed by filling the gap. My leak would be from outer (time chaining cover) edge the o-ring since a small piece was torn and missing. Am guessing that many exist repairs would fall in time when the old o-ring further aged and comes apart. Jeff actually thought I had real good points and understanding (thou bit late). I still believe this product as long as it would not be too hard to redo it in few years. But, am having a real hard time to remove that bonded stent. I think there ought be a better way to reinstall 'o-ring' every few years.

Think need to saw slots every .5" around front-end then 'peel' off piece by piece. Need a special power handy hacksaw. A special plastic inner tube would work better, imho.

@jfoj, no I did not change valley pan cover...maybe in the future. Car only has 77k...545i.
As a PM item your o-ring was ok, the add-on helps to put it there tight but the o-ring itself will come apart in pieces in time...then it will fail at outer edge. If you choose to use the aftermarket pipe, you would still need extra work to get old stent out...that might not be as easy as one might think.

There ought be a better way...improving Jeff's

The valley pan can leak as I recall. You may need to pull the valley pan and cut out the transfer pipe with the stent and replace the transfer pipe. This is how you replace the stent IMHO.

It would be a bigger job...not sure I can handle it right now. Besides the stent is bonded between timing cover and the pipe, it won't be easy to push out even after you cut the pipe. Maybe I miss something. Agree at some point I ought open that up for more repairs.

You are missing something.

The stent is only in the timing cover about 3/4" or so as I recall. You have been able to reach most of this.

When you cut the coolant pipe in half, you remove a center section, then you can use vise grips, drill a hole or do something to get a grip on the stub of the coolant pipe and you can leverage it out of the block toward the inside of the galley.

You just need to watch a few YouTube videos about how to remove the original coolant pipe, the stent will come with it. I am surprised the BimmerFix guy does not have links he can direct you to.

Good luck.

Am listening and thinking to follow thru your suggestion...maybe one more try with the kit. The stent ... maybe easier to get out if having more leverage working from inside thou it is a very strong bond ( to be honest ) even with lever (without damage anything). Jeff said there were few guys re-did the kit/process...waiting to hear how they took the stent out.

The car is outside my house/garage. Am concerned if I can't get it done in one day to replace with the pipe or having problems putting items back together (suppose to be a good 8 hours job). I did watch tube clips. Pretty sure I can open it up and install the pipe. Wish know someone around who has done the pipe install.

Did you ever get your issue taken care of with the stent?
My X5 just started to leak and now needing to tackle this on. If the Stent is that much of a pain to remove I may opt to go with the collapsible style pipe. Figured I replace the valley pan as well since thats another issue that is known to leak.

Question for the ones who has used the collapsible type. Which would you recommend the AGA type or the URO type? I mean theres a huge difference in pricing.

The stent does not need to be removed unless for some reason not enough silicon sealer was used and/or there was still antifreeze/coolant in the transfer pipe where the silicon needs to bond.

Trying to remove the stent to redo the stent job, this is likely tricky.

Moving on to install a new coolant transfer pipe if the stent does not work, this should be no different then cutting out the original pipe without the stent, maybe just a slight bit more effort.

It it was me, I would try the stent first, saves a lot of time, but does cost money. If the stent does not work, just move onto the replacement transfer pipe unless you really want to remove the first stent and try again.

Ok so question for the ones who have the URO, AGA, collapsible types. How many years have you had it and any issues? Im afraid with the URO type that the o-rings wont last that long? Tempted to try the stent but after hearing that its a pain to remove got me thinking if its even worth the trouble.