I have the worst luck!
 

So recently I bought an 05 4.8is a couple of months ago to replace my e39 M5 since my boys are growing and working from home the only driving I do is hauling kids around. I have always loved the look of the is versions and was hoping it would still feel sporty enough so I wouldn't miss the M5 as much. Anyways I found one on craigslist, it only had 80k miles on it and the owner had an extended warranty on it and had recently had a valve job done performed at BMW of Nashville. Also had new rear tires and one of the front air shocks replaced. Plus it was imola on alcantara which is sort of rare. Whoever had it before must have been into modding (the guy I bought it from was in his 50's and wasn't into that), which most of it was distasteful in my eyes, chrome surrounds around the lights, ebay door lock pins, and metal light up door sills. But I looked past that and was hoping it would be reliable which was my biggest fear after spending some time on these forums before and knowing some expensive items that can go wrong. And that is coming from someone who has owned 4 M cars in a row (I had 3 different e46 M3's before the M5).

So based on my research here, these items were the most common and were usually quite expensive. And here is what I have experienced in the last 2 months of ownership.

-Leaky Valves: Thankfully that was taking care of before I bought it and I hope it will not be an issue in the future.

-Panoramic Sunroof: I had the sunroof on tilt one day and the second portion got stuck and prevented it from operating. I removed the two screws to disable the 2nd portion and so far it is working now. But I still get a loud popping noise when I open it so I am worried something else might break.

-Air Suspension: I noticed that the rear passenger side sit lower than the driver's rear and it appeared to be losing a little air overnight. So as cheap as rear bags are I decided to replace them. It still sat lower on the passenger side after I replaced them, but I had just received the Romania software from eBay and tried to even it out via INPA. At first I started adjusting the wrong side by accident, and then when I tried to pump up the passenger side somehow I got it stuck up too high. I had to let air out of the lines for it to move again. I then switched to DIS which I thought is easier to use and I got the ride height evened out and then lowered it at the same time. HOWEVER, it is still leaking on passenger rear where I can barely stick my finger between the fender and tire if I let it sit for more than 24 hours. So either I have a faulty bag, or I have a leak somewhere else. :( (Could I have damaged something by pumping too much air?)

Transmission: I always felt like the transmission was strange when I first got it, it normal driving it shifts so early, but if you put it in sport in makes the shift too hard (almost feels like my SMG transmission did in one of my M3's). I understands it adapts to your driving style and when I would go out and have some "fun" there were times where it shifted so hard if felt like something broke. Well this past Friday I was driving normal and between 3rd and 4th there was a long delay in the shift accompanied by a sound I can best describe as a belt slipping. It did this 3 or 4 times that night followed by the dreaded Trans failsafe message right before I got home. I looked it up in DIS but all I could find in the error was "shift too hard between 3rd and 4th." Next day the message was not there and I have driven it several times since then (not very long distances) and did not experience it again. Until last night, lol. I had some back and forth errands to run and it drove fine, but then I decided to put it in sport on the way home and right before I turned into my subdivision it slipped again between 3rd and 4th. No error message though. So it appears the issue only happens after the tranny fluid is warmed up and when you drive more aggressively.

Ok long post, and excuse my rant, just feel like I have the worst luck that I have 3 out 4 issues on a relatively low mileage example, one that I had thoroughly checked over before I bought it.

Cliffs if you don't want to read
-Rear air suspension is leaking air over night (mostly passenger side) even after air bags were changed. Where else should I be looking for the leak?

-After transmission is warmed up and driven remotely aggressively, shifts between 3rd and 4th are hard, and/or delayed accompanied by a noise in between. Do you think I should go ahead and change the filter and fluid to see if it helps or is it a lost cause? Could the valve body cause this issue? And what does an average rebuild cost? Don't feel like going to BMW and dropping half what I paid for it.

Thanks for any help. Not very happy with the X5 now, even though I still love the way it looks and drives for the most part, and is definitely a better fit for the family needs.

Air leak- try the soapy water troubleshooting method to locate the leak. If not at the bag trace the system connections back the the pump and go from there.

In some cases a fluid change will correct a transmission issue. It is more likely it will not. Cost of transmission repair obviously varies by shop. I suggest the first step is to go to a well recommended Indy shop that frequently repairs BMW transmissions for diagnosis rather than wade through speculation that will likely make you feel worse.

A 4.8 is a great choice based on what you have had in the past. To find one with only 80k miles and an extended warranty is good luck.

Thanks for the advise. I will try that on the air suspension. I already tried that on the new air bag, and did not notice anything, but it is tough to see and impossible to get the entire bag with it mounted.

I do plan to visit a transmission shop soon. One of my friends knows the owner of a big transmission shop in Nashville that has been in business for many years. I will find out if they have experience with the ZF transmission.
But just out of curiosity, what are most of you paying to have yours rebuilt? And if I take the transmission out myself would I save a lot (I've pulled the transmission before on my B5 S4 and my M5)?

Here are some screen shots of errors I have take from DIS and INPA.

Suspension (not getting an error anymore after I cleared it)

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8620/...f5277977_b.jpgScreenshot 2014-10-17 17.50.50 by MikeandGabby, on Flickr

Transmission:

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7506/...5e60c392_b.jpgScreenshot 2014-11-07 23.08.08 by MikeandGabby, on Flickr

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7506/...0f801239_b.jpgScreenshot 2014-11-07 23.14.50 by MikeandGabby, on Flickr

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7549/...8543dc11_b.jpgScreenshot 2014-11-07 23.17.29 by MikeandGabby, on Flickr

And one cell phone pic of the red demon. :rolleyes:

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5594/...c5d18422_b.jpgimage by MikeandGabby, on Flickr

this was before I lowered it.

I have a 06 4.8is ,If You are adjusting the suspension You have to re-program the suspension and if You don,t it will effect the transmission and shifting TOO............., I wouldn't try to do that work on my own.
There is a lot going through the computer for the suspension and it is connected to the transmission.

Good looking truck. I'm kinda in the same boat with the same truck and the same finish. Bought it this summer knowing it had most of the 100K work done already, but now I've still been troubleshooting a shake that popped up about a month after I bought it. :/

What is your logic that adjusting the suspension height will change anything related to the transmission?

I would strongly suggest dropping the transmission pan and changing the filter / sleeve and gasket and then doing a subsequent drain and fill... it did wonders for my 6hp26 :)

I fully plan on doing it again at 200k!

My dealer replaced the trans vs. repairing it. Even under warranty, the warranty company sprung for new (only case is used SA said) trans when problems occurred. Also had 2 front bags replaced. You get all that sorted out and you will probably be in the clear.

Assuming the extended warranty expired and getting a new one is not an option for you?

So I do not have an extended warranty right now. The PO did. Sorry for the confusion. I could have transferred it but it only had a month or so left. I was offered one through my bank, but it was an extra $45 a month so I decided against it. Kicking myself right now. But this being my 5th BMW, it would have never paid off before (I did blow a motor in one of my M3's, but it was supercharged, doubt warranty would of paid for that, lol). It's a shame this has been less reliable than any of my M cars in just a matter of 2 months.

So I don't feel paying BMW 7 or 8K for a new transmission, I'm not going to pay almost half of what I paid for the truck. I'm trying to just figure out worst case scenario if the tranny is bad, what is the typical rebuild cost you guys are paying?

And yes I will try changing the fluid and filter first to see if that helps. And will be getting it checked out by a transmission shop if the fluid doesn't work. It would be nice if it was the valve body, because I think I could handle doing that myself.

Transmission Rebuild cost
 

I recently paid $3994 for the rebuild of a GM version transmission.
It had thrown a P0733 code.

Mike, here are my thoughts - sorry if I repeat what other members suggested (I didn't read through the answers).

I noticed you have GT1, by the screenshots. Now, go into TIS and see how to replace the air bags (rear). I know I did it a few months ago. BMW is very peculiar about how to remove the air lines and how to re-install them. You said the air bags are new. So my take is that whoever changed the airbags, either over tightened the air lines (TIS mentions 4 Nm if I'm not mistaken, which is very little - and if the nut is over tightened, it might leak) and you might need to replace some parts (minor $$$), or when re-installing them, the air lines were dirty, and the smallest amount of debris will do it. So you need to open the TIS, and inspect the air connections. Inspect thoroughly #15 and #2 in this diagram

http://realoem.com/bmw/diagrams/s/p/258.png

Concerning the tranny, you might need to change the ATF, but once under the car, check closely the area around the sealing sleeve (item #1 in the diagram). The original ones had orange O-rings, which were prone to leaking - mine did and I had some horrible shifting due to ATF loss over time. The new ones (OE from BMW have different O-rings - they are black and different rubber compound). Once the filter was replaced and new ATF in, I never experienced the issue since. Make sure you use OE ATF.That was a few months back. Also, I would advise in changing the transfer case oil - you have the GT1 and INPA, and it's very easy to perform the reset after the new fluid is in - did it sometime last year (very easy, but the fluid is expen$ive).

http://realoem.com/bmw/diagrams/c/r/146.png

Thanks for that detailed post. I did change the rear airbags myself, so it is possible I could have over tightened them. When I was using INPA and I pumped up the bags too high and got them stuck, I loosened the air line I noticed I move it a little and heard air come out. I tried to use some tape on the threads and it seemed to not be loosing air but it still may be leaking.

Also, in part number 1 in the diagram, is that visible outside the transmission or do I have to drop the pan first?

And damn truck struck again this morning. I haven't really driven it the past couple of days but to move it around the driveway, but noticed it was shaking really bad in idle but smoothed out when I gave it gas. I do know that one of driver's engine mount is broken (it is a top priority to get fixed) so I thought that might be the issue and the fact that it is so cold. But I got the flashing check engine light. I ran the codes with a quick scanner because I was in a hurry and got codes P0300, P0304, and P0308. So misfires in cylinders 4 and 8. I will scan it with DIS when I get back. I am hoping I just have two bad coils.

You can see if the sealing sleeve is leaking just by crawling under the car - it's in the back, pass side corner of the tranny and up.

Concerning the misfires, you said you owned a few BMW's before. So do I (I still have them). I know 100% that for the inlines, when the car wasn't run for a while, and if it'sparked in a cold environment, you can get the misfires, and then the CEL lights up. Then, you turn off the engine and re-start, and the car acts like nothing ever happened. It might have something to do with engine management, and it cuts off fuel supply, then once the engine is re-started, and the cylinders are bit warmer, they don't act anymore. Weird but true. Maybe the v8's have something similar going...Never happened to my X

I recently had to rebuild my 5spd zf trans, I did the removal and reinstall myself. Pretty easy if you have done this sort of work before, nothing out of the normal.
Took me about 4 hours to take it out and about 4 back in, drinking beer and not rushing. Costs were $1200 for parts and fluid (all zf factory parts and fluid, seal kit, steels and friction disks) torque converter was expensive at $700 and I payed a local shop $900 to perform the overhaul. Hope this gives u a little insight

I've called ZF (they have a US office - Connecticut I think) asking about the tranny for a 4.4i. The guy said list was $3600 but almost instantly offered it for $3k. That's with the torque converter and filled with factory fluid. They require a rebuild able core be returned.

Not such a bad deal. Mine has been behaving (knock on wood) since a fluid/filter change.

Did they say new or rebuilt? Either way that's not crazy money. How do you make sure the computer and the version of the software are correct?

If you are doing it yourself, I had good luck buying stuff from the California Transmission Supply Company. They carry the Lifetime 6 fluid you'll need, plus the parts you'll want. Buy an extra drain and fill plug. That way you'll have a spare if your existing one is buggered up (like mine was). They are cheap and so nice to have vs. needing one and not having it.

That was rebuilt by ZF... I don't think you can get new ones from anyone - I am pretty sure the $7k (tranny+TC) dealer units are rebuilt also.

I was happy to hear this, too, - I am not looking forward to such an expense, but at least I know that I don't have to worry about the cost of the tranny causing me to junk the car.

I didn't do it in the end, as the filter&fluid change solved my problems, so I don't know how they deal with the different versions and computers, etc.


I just looked up the phone number I saved. My memory wasn't exactly correct - I spoke to a US based "ZF authorized distributor". They did not answer email. They were helpful on the phone.

Eriksson Industries, division of Wentworth Engineering Inc.
146 B Elm Street
Old Saybrook, CT 06475
800-388-4418
860-395-0047 Fax
[email protected]

My CPO replacement transmission was a rebuilt one.

No warranty on the car?You mentioned something about extended warranty.

Well the misfire did go away after I parked the X in the garage and turned my little electric heater on to warm it up. I went ahead and swapped coils 4 and 8 for 7 and 3. I just need to let it sit in the cold for a couple of days and see if it comes back.

Ok multi-quoting for me is not working for some reason. Glad you shared this. That is not too bad. Last year I removed the transmission in my e39 M5 to do a clutch job and change out the RMS. I also have removed the transmission on my previous B5 S4 which was even more difficult, so I might give this a shot. Depends on how much it will save me. Do you have to replace the torque converter? Was it bad or is it just necessary to replace if you are rebuilding the transmission?

Thanks for sharing that too. Big price difference from what BMW charges.


And no extended warranty, the previous owner had one but it only had a month left so it wasn't worth to transfer it.

Well, i finance a 2008 X5 4.8 and i ran into a head gasket leak as well as a coolant leak. Always have to put coolant in on a regular basis. Oil about once every two weeks. I was told about thermagasket. Wanting to see if anybody can give me some positive and true experience with the thermagasket kits please. Bmw wants me to pay $6100.00 for the repair, i really don't have that. So i was told about THERMAGASKET. Looking for positive imput and if i shoulld risk trying the THERMAGASKET.

You should start a new post as this is a new topic. Unless you are a marketing-spam-bot.

I don't know anyone that believes in those "miracle" sealants. They often are the kiss of death as it makes a proper rebuild even more expensive and unlikely.

I would start by trying to find a reputable independent shop. That cost seems high for just head gaskets. Definitely worth another opinion.

And, remember, you have bought a very high performance vehicle. Expenses like that are likely to happen from time to time. If it is financially impossible for you, probably should look for a lower maintenance vehicle.

Good luck, hopefully the new fluid and filter are the fix foe many miles.

Bingo! I suspected this might be the issue before you mentioned it, but when you replied I went out today since it was a little warmer and checked that fitting (#15) and saw this after I sprayed it with soapy water.

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7572/...31e114b6_b.jpgimage by MikeandGabby, on Flickr

It looks like the bubbles are coming from the bottom of the nut.

So will I need to just replace part #15?
http://c1552172.r72.cf0.rackcdn.com/75552_x800.jpg

Or will I need to replace the reservoir and/or line as well?
http://c1552172.r72.cf0.rackcdn.com/357343_x800.jpg
http://c1552172.r72.cf0.rackcdn.com/357492_x600.jpg

Beautiful x5 and good luck with the repairs. Sounds like you are already solving some of the problems. Things come up but it's nice to have a community to get advice from. Makes owning these types of vehicles fun and affordable

Mike123

What you need buy depends on where it is leaking. I suggest doing the soap test again to pinpoint the leak. Start at the base. If no leak there move up to the hose nut and then test where the hose goes into the nut. Most likely place it is leaking is at the base of the nut. I suspect the O ring is distorted because the nut is too tight. You may be able to loosen the nut and then secure it again with less torque to cure the leak if that is the case.

Looks like whoever did the job forgot or lost the compression fitting that goes into the plastic line and they screwed the fitting and plastic line back into the reservoir. Look at item 15 in your diagram it shows two pieces, the fitting and the compression fitting that goes on at the end of the plastic line.

:iagree:

Another new X owner with buyer remorse. Sell the X or trade it in take your lost and move on with your life. Don't drive it with the head gasket problem because you will do more damage to that fine piece of German engineering.

I suggest you make a trip to a well recommended independent shop that specializes in BMWs for a second opinion and quote before trying any fix.

Nothing in OP post about I wish I hadn't purchased this X5. Some of your posts are great. Unfortunately, there are relentless posts like this one for all the new owners even though you still have your X5.

Hopefully if I can get another year out of it I'll be gone. :D

You mean that after buying a BMW and financing for who know how many years, and being told that the car/truck/sav now needs $6100.00 in repairs that you wouldn't have buyer remorse???

I'm more up front with new BMW owners than a lot of owners on this board. Obvious the new owner isn't a DIY type of guy and like I told other new owners that if they don't have a warranty or are not a DIYer then a used BMW E53 is probably not the right vehicle for them.

I thought the advice that I gave the new owner was great, along with David.X5

If it were my situation my answer could be yes as well as it could be no just as it could be for OP. It would depend on a fairly long list of circumstances at the time.

My point is none of us know the circumstances such as years of financing, cost of vehicle, reason for financing, how much he likes it, etc. I see your conclusion of being in a state of buyer's remorse as a wishful assumption, a rush to judgment. Feeling as you do and keeping your X5 for another year seems similar to punching yourself in the head everyday of that year, a self inflicted compromise of personal happiness.

I think a constructive response is to suggest ways to be sure what is wrong and correct the problem at the most reasonable cost that fits OP circumstances. And, I am positive that is WELL within your capabilities.

I thought I gave I gave him the constructive response.

O.P "Car broke, can't afford to get it fix."

Upallnight "Sell or trade in the car."

Since he's not a DIYer I don't think that giving him a how to replace a head gasket is the correct response.

Telling him to drive around to other repair facilities to get estimates is inappropriate because my advice is to not drive the X until it is fix.

Driving around with a head gasket problem could warp the heads if the engine overheat, or could seize the bearings in the crankshaft or rods if the water travel to the oil sump and if you remember high school science oil float on water. The oil pickup is normally located at the bottom of the sump, so instead of oil circulating through the lubrication system you now have water. So instead of an expensive fix you now have a really big expensive fix to deal with if you need to replace the engine.

I never said that I hated my X, and unlike so many other new owners I know how to fix my X when it is broken, or at the very least have the means to bring it in to get it fix.

I'll throw my hat in here as I can see both your points of view.

I've been here a short time and seen more than a few buyer's remorse type threads and posts. These vehicles are expensive to own, and even more expensive if you aren't a DIY'er.

upallnight did make an assumption about the Ismael's situation... but it's probably a pretty accurate one. These things are running sub $10000 now and as such are being purchased by people who don't have two nickels to rub together in some cases. Most have never owned a BMW of any sort and are pretty unprepared for what it takes to keep a vehicles like this on the road. And saying someone has buyer's remorse is not necessarily an insult either.

Sorry, I know I wasn't party to the disagreement... but thought maybe some outside insight would lend to the discussion? If wrong, I apologize.

Edit: Oh and to the OP, we are kind of hijacking your thread as well... apologies.

actual quote is "I really don't have that." That doesn't mean he cannot afford a more reasonable amount. We all know the dealer price causes 'heart attacks'.

You are correct, he shouldn't be driving it. I should have suggested having it towed for second opinion and cost to fix. At least to check for any indication of water in the oil before he does and even then don't drive far.

I never said you hated your X either. I don't think you do even though I don't recall you mentioning overbalancing redeeming values. And as you know, I haven't experienced your costly history with my X5. I feel like if only one story is told the assumption will be that's how everyone feels. I can DIY most things and that certainly is nice to be able to do so but I don't think it is an imperative capability to owning an E53. I agree that if something needs to be done the cost to address a X5 issue is a shock if base of reference is a Chevy Tahoe. OP certainly understands BMWs and my assumption is he made an eyes wide open purchase. If I was told I need to spend 6 grand on anything you can be sure I would be searching for an alternative regardless of my bank account balance.

If your contribution is received as constructive that's great. I would like to be incorrect.

To the X owner with the head gasket problem, you came to the wrong forum to ask your question.

You should have gone to this forum where the product was actually used by a BM Trouble U owner and his results.

Does Thermagasket or Steal Seal or Blue Magic Work?

Great looking 4.8is but just seeing another Imola 4.8is gives me the shakes. I'm convinced the E53 is the Devil's own, even though I'm not religious. Great platform if you like to solve puzzles and have the time on your hands to deal with them.

I don't mind solving 1 or 2 puzzles at a time, but when I get 10 at once it is damn frustrating! :p:

So dealing with a vibration from hell that just started yesterday. I know both my inner CV joints are torn and the driver's side axle is noisy when put into gear (x5 is up on jack stands), so I am hoping that is the issue. Just ordered 2 new GKN axles.

I also have to fix the driver's side motor mount bracket, it's broken at the top and you should see how much the engine moves when it's revved up and the brakes are applied. :wow::wow: (That's going to be a fun job to replace) I know that is a source of vibration too, but it has been that way since I bought it and the vibration I have now is new.

After that then maybe I can move onto the transmission......:(