Warning lights..
 

I was driving the other day when I heard a bing noise come from the dash.. The 4x4 light came on, and a few moments later another bing noise and the ABS and a red Exclamation light came on..
Any help or has anyone had this exact problem and can let me know how to fix it..
It's only happening intermittently, usually after 10-15 mins of driving so I was thinking maybe the ABS sensors? But then why wouldn't it be there from the start.
Cheers
Matt

You need to pull the code. A regular obd scanner probably won't help you, you need to use one that can read all the systems.

People refer to these as the trifecta. Lots posted here on causes and troubleshooting if you search by that term

Yeah I know I could drop my car off at the mechanics to get the code.. but that's why I was posting on here.. Too see if anyone had the same issue and lights.. I don't have the equipment to pull the codes myself but I'm more than happy to do the work myself once I know what the problem is..
I thought the whole point of this forum was to try and avoid a trip to the mechanics :/

The whole point of this forum is to share and provide information on our cars, and one of the most important info has already been given to you. Bring the X in and get the trouble code scanned.

There are several things that can cause the trifecta of lights to come on in your car. Are you willing to replace all these parts even though they may be good because you don't want to bring the X into a mechanic and get it scanned? You can start with the ABS module and pump, if you have I-drive you can replace the transfer case shift motor, all four wheel sensors, and steering angle sensor.

The only cheap thing in a X5 these days are the new owners.

I never told you to take it to a mechanic either, rather just find out what the code is. There are numerous scanners you can buy to get this done, and it will help you with issues in the future.

Where would I buy this scanner from.. Which one would be best suited for a 05 turbo diesel.. How much are they.. Do u have a link to the most suited scanner that will help since there are so many different ones

U might call someone who wants to work on their own car cheap..
I'd call it an enthusiast who wants to learn.. Instead of just dropping it off at the shop and throwing money at it

I'm all for working on one's car, but for someone who comes onto this forum and never contributed anything to the forum and then think this forum is setup so that they don't have to go to a mechanic because they lack the knowledge or expertise and equipment to fix their car to me is not an enthusiasts.

If you are a real enthusiast join the local BMW chapter. There are plenty of enthusiasts at these chapters who would welcome you and share their knowledge and love for all thing BMW. There are plenty of Youtube videos on repairing a X5, you can learn from watching the video.

People offered you advice but you chose to ignore them and just want a cheap fix to me that is not learning.

I work on all my own cars. Personally the scanner I use is a Snap-On Verdict D7 and it works on all my vehicles. I'm not cheap. I'm an enthusiast and a DIYer, and I understand that multiple issues can show the same dummy lights on the cluster.

There is a full thread going on here about choices of scanners / scan software:

http://www.xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-foru...ml#post1023577

I seem to be one of the few who like AutoEnginuity software. It comes with full support and updates from the developers.

Many of the other choices are open-source or cloned software with no support. The most capable is the BMW INPA/DIS that you can find on eBay. This is the same software the dealer has. No support except the various forums. Most people dedicate a laptop just to this since the requirements are slightly out of date (Win XP I think) and it is of questionable provenance. BMW Scanner 1.4 is another software package that is also very popular and can be found online around $60 I think. Either of these two software packages require you to find a compatible cable / interface to fit your car (or you may buy it bundled).

Cheers Daniel, exactly all I was after..

Upallnight -
Your gonna judge my skill set based a what.. U have know idea what I do for work and what I can and can't do.. Your just acting like a right knob mate.. U wanna be helpful, since this is the first X5 I've owned and haven't had it long, why don't u point me in the direction of the nearest BMW X5 club then in the Illawarra NSW AUS...
I've fixed several things thanks to this forum and the helpful others on it and I'm sure it will continue to be helpful in the future, as long as tossers like yourself pull their heads in and realise that every time u buy a different car it comes with different problems and not everyone is always going to be well versed in the repair of every vehicle.

Cheers David.X5
I had a look on ebay before and found one that other people had suggested for fault finding but it was in Romania and wouldn't post to Australia for some reason.. Thanks bud I'll check out what you mentioned

If you want people on this forum to help you, you need to take some of their advice. Several people have already pointed out that you need to get the X scanned. I have yet to see you post any DTC codes.

There's a learning curve for any new car and there's a learning curve for some of the scanners people have posted on this forum. One of the software mentioned by another forum member requires the program to run on a virtual machine. Unless you are a IT person, most people do not know anything about a setting up a virtual machine.

I may be acting like a right knob to you (whatever that is???) but I seen my share of "enthusiasts" on plenty of automotive forums whose only concerns is to get their car fix for the lowest cost.

I looked at your past posts and don't see any that you have helped another member on this forum. You are welcome to look at all my past posts and you will see that I have helped a number of members.

I have no experience with this car so who am I gonna help...
I know I'm gonna need to get the codes... But u may as well have said go and get it fixed as it was just as helpful.. I needed to know what scanner to get.. And thanks to other people they've helped me...Everyone else who has posted has been helpful...
Your just a pest..

So you think I'm not helpful???

Here's a link to Diagnostic softwares, how to install and how to use.

Diagnostic Software

You're welcome.

Haha, thank you

People who have their transfer case gear worn got this trifecta. Just my knowledge. A more rubust design sold on Amazon (not sure if still available) is $50. I changed mine, just as a preventive.

Good Luck!

Thanks LeiZ

As mentioned the root cause of the trifecta can be many things. Providing codes here will help but it may not give you a definitive answer. This is some troubleshooting that you can do. Are there any symptoms, anything unusual you have noticed? When they come on do they stay on?

bcredliner-
I was driving the other day when I heard a bing noise come from the dash.. The 4x4 light came on, and a few moments later another bing noise and the ABS and a red Exclamation light came on..
It happens usually after 10-15 mins of driving and then stays on until I stop and turn the car off for a period I time... Then it's off again for a bit but comes back on after a few mins...
I was thinking maybe the ABS sensors? But then why wouldn't it be there from the start.
Cheers

What month/year is your X5? I am not familiar with the diesels, but the the transfer case gear is only seen on later gas models. If you have an earlier one, that may be something that could be eliminated (or move higher on the list).

The wheel speed sensors can be intermittent for a variety of reasons. Heat can open a circuit that is close to total failure, etc.

The codes should be stored until cleared and those can be seen with some software. Of course, it is always better to be able to diagnose it when it is making the actual fault.

Be aware that when those lights are on, the ABS and DSC is disabled. You would have normal braking, but not the computerized functions.

The DSC computer module itself can go bad (an internal connection pops off) - this is what happened to mine - in the US there are a few companies that will recondition it and return it to you. Don't know about where you are. If you get a new one (about US$400) then it needs to be coded to the VIN in the car - something a dealer or well equipment BMW shop can do or someone very good with the eBay software.

Given your symptoms I would lean towards the module being bad. After a while of driving the engine bay temps heat up the module and it fails. I just had to have mine repaired due to that.

You could try turning on your ignition but not starting the engine, and hold a hair dryer to the DSC/abs module. Get a little heat in it and see if the lights come on, if they do, it's probably the module. But really you should try to get the software to scan codes. Its less than $100aud I believe.

Just to make this more exciting, a bad module can generate a lot of codes that point in other directions (like bad wheel speed sensors) when it is really the module. Mine tricked me into replacing two wheel speed sensors before I wised up... There are whole threads here dedicated to trying to sort out the module or something else, depending on the codes you get.

I read your initial description and this clarification that it is not what I would call intermittent so any troubleshooting without knowing codes is a shot in the dark.

I can't add anything that hasn't already been said:

Best course of action is to read the codes. I would take it to a well recommended BMW indy shop to get it done sooner than later because of the safety systems that are now inactive. I wouldn't wait to get and learn how to use a diagnostic tool, especially not the BMW software package. I am all for common sense troubleshooting but in this case I would want the codes to provide an indication of where to start.

Yeah your right, I might just have to find a shop ASAP instead of driving it with the safety systems inactive.. It started as intermittent the first few times as it was only happening every 2nd or 3rd drive.. but it's quickly became every drive..
I'm in New South Wales Australia and I'm not sure what u mean by an "Indy shop"?

The cars a 2005 3.0 turbo diesel but not sure of the month right now as I'm at work and can't check the cars papers..

Cheers guys I've got an idea of what could be wrong now and how to go about finding the fault my self.. I've order the scanner but like you've said it might be best to chase up a shop ASAP as it's probably not the safest X5 on the road at the moment

"Indy shop" means an independent mechanic who specializes in BMW (and one hopes has BMW experience and the specialized code readers, etc) as opposed to an official BMW dealer or a general mechanic who works on everything but doesn't have any of the brand-specific tools (or knowledge).

Your transfer should have an actuator on it, so the common failure of the actuator gear should remain a possibility.

In that case it probably isn't the abs module. I am not sure about the AUD vehicles, but in the US it seems only the prefacelift models have the module issues.

Cheers man, that clears a lot up haha.
Yeah I think I know a place that specialises in European vehicles that I'll ask and see if they can help me out.
Thanks again

Got a quote but it seems like they're trying to take advantage of the situation.. I've ordered the scanner but it won't get here until around 25th of Feb :/
I'm definately leaning towards the ABS module due to the fact that the lights seem to stay off for longer when it's colder weather.. But after 15mins or so "bing" and there they are again

Try to find the threads here on transfer case actuator gear failures. It is pretty common for your year and gives similar symptoms. There is a no cost fix that involves flipping over a plastic gear to get it to an unworn region. Since you've got a few weeks, may be worth a try.

I have a 2001 that doesn't have the actuator on the transfer case so can't give any specific advice on how-to.

Cheers I'll give it a go

If you are going to open up the transfer case to flip the gear around, you would be better off buying a new gear. They are not that expensive.

http://www.amazon.com/Transfer-Motor...sin=B00H2TD5IQ

Yeah I've ordered one

I have noticed recently a ticking (only sometimes for a few seconds) after I shut the car off.
On another thread he was getting the lights and that noise and that was related directly to the gear being worn.. Fingers crossed its that easy

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=566880

MBK, I don't see what year and engine you have. You create your signature with the info so it will help other members know what you have.

I've posted it a few times in this thread..
It's a 2005 3.0 turbo diesel

The scanner arrived a few days ago so now I'm trying to chase up an old laptop with XP on it.
Yesterday the Transfer case actuator gear arrived so I got to installing that.
Quite a quick install, and given the state of the old one and the fact I've drove it for 40 or so K's and had no warning lights, it looks like I might have fixed the issue (fingers crossed)
Thanks for all your help
Matt

I took some pics of the old one to show the wear but I can't post pics in an already active thread for some reason?

That ticking sound is the sound of a stripped gear in the transfer case actuator motor.

The stripped gear was probably the problem. Once you install a new gear, the trifecta of lights will go off once you start driving the X no need to reset the light. If you didn't reset the lights and they went off by themselves your problem is Fixed.

Hahaha yeah cheers mate..
I figured that based on what others had posted on other threads... as u showed I posted previously :/
That's the reason why I ordered that part and replaced it...

Quote:
Originally Posted by mbk
I have noticed recently a ticking (only sometimes for a few seconds) after I shut the car off.
On another thread he was getting the lights and that noise and that was related directly to the gear being worn.. Fingers crossed its that easy

Transfer Case Actuator potential free fix! - Bimmerfest - BMW Forums

You're right, the point is to help you, and as of now the best help you have been given is to find out what the codes are. You can get some very good scan tools on eBay for 20-ish dollars. You will get a module that you plug into your OBD II data port that will then talk to your smartphone -- android or apple -- to show the current status of your car. The app for your phone is free for the lite version, and a few bucks for the full-featured version. Wsith this, you can avoid a trip to the mechanic.

jdstrickland - Didn't u read my other comments...

Yes I took people's advice and purchased a scanner. (at the same time I purchased a carbon fibre infused transfer case actuator gear)
But now I'm after an old laptop that runs Windows XP so the scanner will work properly.

It was suggested here, and I also found on other threads, people that have had this exact problem with nearly identical symptoms. They fixed it by replacing the transfer case actuator gear with the relatively cheap carbon fibre infused version that's guaranteed to last a hell of a lot longer..... and like I said in previous comments.... That's what I did, and now ITS FIXED..... The gear was stripped very badly so instantly I knew that it was going to make a huge difference...

So, while the scanner was a good suggestion.... The BEST suggestion was to change the transfer case actuator gear... As like I said... It fixed the problem.

Awesome. Glad it's working.

I guess I learned that the actuator gear is a likely suspect for the cursed trifecta lights in later E53 (2004-2006) while the DSC module remains the prime suspect for early E53 (2000-2003).

And no one made even a single kangaroo joke. oops :-)

Cheers David.X5
Yeah the gear was absolutely shredded! The state it was in I couldn't believe it was still working only a few weeks ago! I'd recommend everyone change it, even if they're just after something to tinker with on the weekend. It's easy enough to do and will definately prevent a future failure.

I just had this happen to my '04 X5 4.8is. It stranded me on the road. I've had it happen three times in the three weeks I've owned it. This is the first time it's left me on the road. First time it did it for just a second then they all went off. Second time they came on they stayed on until I shut the vehicle off. Restarted and they were off. This time I was driving in the snow and they came on. It went into the mode where it started shutting things down. I put it in neutral turned it off and tried to restart it. It's like the battery was running down. I started once then it wouldn't start again. Suppose to be a new battery in it. I've checked and it looks new. Still think it's a battery or charging issue. I will try to get the codes read to see what's up. Any help would be appreciated by you guys that really know these. I'm a brand new BMW owner. I know they're finicky.

BMWs are sensitive to low voltage. Do you have a multimeter to check level of charge in the battery? If you are able to get it running you can check the charging system by unlocking the OBC. You can always remove the battery and take it to most any auto parts store to do a load test. When you say it seems like the battery does that mean the engine won't turn over when you try to start it?

Thanks for the reply. Yes, it wouldn't turn over. It just clicked. The previous owner replaced the battery just before I bought it. I did double check that today that it was new. It looks to be. Still might be a bad battery or bad alternator. I did get it started again but it only ran a minute or two and started the safe mode again and died. I'm going to let it charge overnight and see what happens tomorrow.

I really like this rig but I just don't understand how I could drive it 8 hours and it's perfect and then these things start to go wrong.

A car can usually run several hours off the battery even if the alternator isn't working. If it runs once you charge the battery and then slowly stops working again, I would suspect something about the alternator - perhaps it wasn't connected correctly, it isn't working properly, open wire, etc.

If you have a way to measure voltage*, you can tell pretty easily. The battery voltage should be in the 12.5 V range before you start it, and jump up to something around 13.5V when the engine is running and the alternator is charging the battery. If it stays around 12.5V (and especially if the voltage slowly drops as it runs), then its the alternator (or something related to the alternator).

*you can unlock the instrument cluster - one of the built in test functions is to display voltage - search for instructions on this. A volt meter works just fine, too, you can measure in the engine compartment.

If it just "Click" you either have a dead battery or a bad starter. I would start with the easy fix and try charging the battery or if the PO gave you the receipt for the battery I would just take it out and bring it back. The battery could be bad even if it is brand new, had that happen to me when I had my BMW E34.

Other cause be a parasitic drain that is killing the battery.

You should also start your own thread about your problem instead of trying to hijack the original since your problem is no where related to the original poster.

Thanks for your help guys. It took a new alternator. All is good for now. Sorry if I hijacked the thread. I thought the trifecta of lights was in line with this thread. Ended up being something else