DIY Front Differential Fluid Change Complete
 

Much easier than what others made this out to be. Didn't have to take the drivers side wheel/tire off. Cut a 1.5" piece of 14mm allen wrench to use to remove & replace the fill plug from underneath. Replaced the original drain plug with a magnetic plug.

1. Remove the 6 bolts on the aluminum skid plate.
2. Use the 1.5" long 14mm allen wrench piece to verify you can remove the fill plug using a 14mm box-end wrench. (see pictures)
3. Remove drain plug & drain differential.
4. Replace drain plug.
5. Fill with proper fluid until it runs out of the fill plug.
6. Replace fill plug.
7. Replace skid plate.

Great info, Thanks

Thanks for posting. Where did you get the stubby 14mm allen key?

Also, to add that both drain and fill gaskets should be replaced. And when replacing the aluminum plate I would guess those bolts are one-time use, and should also be replaced. They need to be torqued as well....to what value I don't know.

I assume that the skid plate you are referring to is the reinforcing plate (part #3 in the Realoem diagram below)?


http://www.realoem.com/bmw/diagrams/f/i/446.png

If that is the case, then be aware that the bolts (part #4) are part # 33306772888 (M10x35-10.9), and appear to single use TTY bolts. I think 45 ft-lbs plus 90 degrees, but I am not certain. Hopefully, someone has access to a manual and can chime in.

There seem to be a number of threads about the value and/or necessity of TTY bolts, but this link refers directly to the stiffener plate on the e53 X5. See post #12 for a good tensile strength-strain diagram. On a more practical note, see posts # 20 and 21 for reports of creaking front suspensions that started after re-using the bolts, and were fixed by replacing with new TTY bolts. Of course, there are lots of opinions about this - many other posters have said they re-used the bolts without problems. But it's always good to at least know about the issue.

Otherwise, good job with the repair. Gotta love a DIY with pics!

Regards.

I cut it off of a 14mm allen wrench. The hardened bolts holding a thin aluminum plate are not going to be "one use only". If BMW states that they are, it's just another means of screwing BMW owners who typically know nothing about vehicles and they fork over more money just because BMW says to.

I highly recommend this:

http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTIwMFgxMj...UTbrq/$_35.JPG

I know this is an old thread but it helped me get my fluids changed today.

I had a set of the above mentioned ez-red connectors which helped get the fill plug loose. Since I measured what I took out (600ml) I then jacked the drivers side of the truck up enough to extend the travel of the suspension and make it easier to slide around (no lift here). With that done I was able to use two wobble extensions from the wheel well to torque the fill plug back on.

As I am changing all of the fluids in my new to me 2012 X5D with 65k on the clock, I appreciate the time you had spent making these DIY threads Lambeau.

and I appreciate you appreciating him.
:thumbup:

What's the torque on the fill and drain plugs?

Just gutentight. Don't go crazy on it. :thumbup:

I thought the same thing but wanted to make sure.

Torque spec for fill and drain bolts is 60 Nm or ~44 ft/lbs

Reinforcement plate bolts should be replaced with new and torqued to 54 Nm or ~40 ft/lbs and then a 90 degree rotation

Important!
If oil is filled up to the lower edge of the oil filler opening, the front axle differential would be overfilled and in rare individual cases oil could emerge from the ventilation opening on the front axle differential.
After draining front axle differential oil or when carrying out the initial filling of a new replacement front axle differential, the transmission must be filled with 600 ml oil.
Only use the approved front axle oil in the front axle differential.
Failure to comply with this requirement will result in serious damage to the front axle differential!

Note:
Only change oil when front axle differential is at normal operating temperature.

I re-used the bolts and filled it to the bottom of the fill hole and now have 73,000 miles driven since I did this with ZERO issues. BMW specifies exactly 600ml and to re-use the bolts so it discourages owners from performing their own work so they can overcharge like they do everything else. I also used Pentosin instead of BMW fluid when I changed my trans fluid and the cheapest trans pan/filter I could find on Ebay and now have 75,000 miles driven since trans fluid change (175,000 total miles on trans) with ZERO issues. I do all of my own work and use the cheapest parts I can find on Ebay for wheel bearings and suspension pieces with zero issues. Pi$$ on BMW and their overpriced rip-off scheme.

Damn dude, it's guys like you that make mechanics cringe when you tell them you do your own work.

You obviously have no idea what TTY or TTT bolts are and that's fine, if you don't know, you don't know. Being too lazy though to look them up and learn something makes you a really bad mechanic.

This thread came up in a Google search because I knew they were single use and I was trying to look up the torque for them.

Several places said 45ft/lbs + 90 degrees which is odd as that is a TTT spec but when I did it they all yielded roughly at 90 degrees so they are definitely TTY bolts and the spec is just a guide. Basically just do them all in two steps to yield.

If you want to fall for the BS BMW pushes to screw as many people as possible that's fine. I have almost 100,000 miles on the RE-USED bolts which is more valuable testament than your opinion.

That just means you didn't tighten them enough, if you did they would snap. Just because YOU don't understand something does not make it BS.

Real-world 100,000 miles of proof Trumps opinions every time.

That TTY bolts cannot be reused is not an opinion, it is a fact, and the reasoning is because of physics and what happens when you tighten them to yield.

That TTY bolts need to be used there is an opinion. It's not MY opinion though, it was the opinion of the mechanical engineer that designed the part. His is what's called an EXPERT OPINION as he his highly trained and qualified. He also had access to any and all data needed to form an opinion on the clamping force necessary for that plate to do it's job. He also had very specific, quantitative data on what exactly that plates "job" was.

For the opposing view, we have "Lambeau". A home mechanic with no engineering degree, no access to any data on the forces the plate is subjected to, and no idea what a TTY bolt is as he thinks they are reusable, who is justifying his opinion based on the anecdotal evidence that he reused the bolts and has driven 100,00 miles now with no negative effects that he can see.

There are many in this thread to prove you otherwise with not one instance of reusing the bolts causing an issue. There is in fact many more instances that they didn't fail than did. You have zero knowledge of what my degree is and you personally attacked me. Grow up.

Was reading some info on the ISTA+ regarding recommended fluids for the differentials. I know different DIY'ers have used different kinds. But I was curious about any drawbacks to using cheaper alternatives over the more expensive fluids recommended by BMW (for e70 N55 motor, per ISTA+ updated 2016) before I tackle this DIY:

1. Front differential: Hypoid Axle Oil G2 (BMW part no. 83-22-2-413-511)

2. Rear differential: Final-Drive Gear Oil Saf-Xo 832514 (BMW part no. 33-11-7-695-240)

3. Transfer case: Transfer Case Fluid - DTF 1 (SAE 75W GL-4) (BMW part no. 83-22-2-409-710)

The front and rear differentials are nothing fancy (no limited slip)... Same technology that's in just about every car on the road. You can use any quality gear oil in them. I went with Redline 75W-110. The transfer case is where you MUST go with the BMW fluid.

I have a 2013 X5 xDrive35i. I am planning to change the front differential oil. When I looked at the filler plug, it seemed not accessible from underneath the car. There is a rubber type of tubing running right in front of the plug, which can be pushed aside a little but the space is still very small. How did you get to the plug? Is the configuration different for X5D than 35ix? Appreciate any advice. Thanks.

I made a long hex socket (14mm I believe) by welding the a 14mm Allen socket to the end of a long 1/2” extension.

Looks like 75w-85 is the correct fluid for the front Differential Oil. Not much different.

I've removed the reinforcement plate and zipped them on and off with an impact gun numerous times. :flex:

Then from which direction did you reach the filler plug? Seems to me there is not enough room to pass the extension bar from below. Even it barely goes through, there is no room to turn and wrench. Thanks.

I believe from the lower wheel well area. You have to remove the plastic cover.

Thank you. Do you mean this cover (see the photo attached)?

No. If you get under the car, you will see a plastic cover that covesr the lower subframe area and extends back under the car near the driver footwell area.


Part 1 and 9 I believe: https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=51_6430

OK, I will check again. Actually, I looked at it last weekend and didn't see the two covers in the graph provided. The undercover could be different for 4.8i than 35i. Thanks.

Thank you. I plan to change the front differential oil tomorrow. The two plastic covers do exist and can be removed to create access to the fill plug. How much oil did you put in it? Many here said just fill it until it overflows. But the newTis shows a capacity of 650 ml. Thanks.

I got the front differential oil changed today. Although I removed the plastic cover, it still gave me hard time to put the fill plug back on. I eventually figured it out that I needed two hands working together from two directions to screw the plug in. Can't believe that the oil looks so ugly for only 40K miles (see the attached photo). Seems needing to change it more frequently. Thank you for your help.

Color doesn't mean much. Some oils are dark like that from the bottle, depending on what kind of EP additives they use.
I'd still do the rear diff and the tc every 40k, those are the stressed parts, especially the tc since the clutch in there does controlled slip to vary front torque.

Nice work getting the fluid changed. The front differential probably turns fluid darker than the rear differential because it gets much hotter (it's bolted to the engine and sits right under the header). I changed mine for the first time at 80k miles, and then again at 110k miles; in the 30k miles between changes, the fluid still came out very dark... it probably cleaned up a lot of what was left behind from the first change at 80k, too.

The fluid felt slimy and appeared to contain a lot of very fine particles. I think changing it every 30K miles is the way to go. Sounds like the fluid cannot sustain heat attack. Wonder if its performance could be altered (or reduced) by the constant heat treatment as well.

But, but, it is life time fluid!!!!
;):popcorn:

Well, that's a good wish, but the reality is that the gear oil degenerates faster than you think. After changing the front differential, one symptom, "engine brake", has disappeared, which is good.

Thanks for the suggestion. Will do the rear differential next week. A new TC was installed late last year so no need to change fluid. Have you done trans oil change? I have a GA8HP45Z transmission and it seems the procedure is complicated. Have to use ISTA to adapt and balance the new fluid during and after filling. Any comments?

I did the rear differential oil change this weekend, and it was a piece of cake. The oil color did not look much better than that from the front differential, which tells me that both should be changed every 30K miles at least. Have you changed the transmission oil? That will be the next on my to-do list but I will wait until I hit 50K miles, 10K to go.

Yes I have. It’s easy. Make sure you get a new transmission pan/filter when you do it (get the ZF one). You’ll want to do 2 pan drops and fills. There’s plenty of threads here and elsewhere for a full DIY. Most important thing is fluid choice and making sure the transmission is at the correct temperature when setting fluid level.

Why did you do two drops and fills? to clean out the old oil from the torque converter? Many youtube videos only showed doing it once.

Nice write-up!

You don't have to drop the pan twice. Second time just a drain and fill. 2 times within a short period is good because you only get out about 70% of the fluid. The tc holds the rest.

Called SilverSpring BMW GetBMWparts counter...

You got the transfer case fluid part # right, and that is the only fluid to use. I was told need only 1 500ml container

Front differential - was told to use part 83 22 2413511 , need 1.25l via two $45 containers
Rear differential - was told to use part 83 22 22 95532 , same capacity, about the same 2 x $45




Called Northwest BMW parts counter and they would not confirm/give out part #s over the phone. I am a bit confused as last time these fluids did not cost me $300 and can't recall where/what/how much I bought.....

ok 2 yrs ago I was given advice by GetBMWParts via email to use 83 22 22 95532 fluid for both front and rear differential, which I had followed. Hope I did not f&&& my front diff by running rear diff fluid.....

Both diffs can take the same fluid in the E53. Just looked up the part number for the E70 as I ordered fluid for the wife's 2010 x35d. Part number 83222365987 and is the same for the front and the rear.

what is the source of the info that both front and rear diffs can run the same fluid?


Can BMW spec different fluids for 2010 vs 2012?


researched www.newtis.info but it is quite confusing and does not indicate how much fluid each diff holds.

Sure they could. Even among different models in the same year.

I used BMW Parts Catalog. It's basically a more modern version looking version (could just be I've been using it for more modern chassis) of realOEM. I was at the dealer the other day buying small stuff for a recently acquired E61 and it was the same diagrams they had.

It is entirely possible that the fluid spec'd for 2010 vs 2012 is different. Though I would be surprised if it was.

I see that it indicates front and rear diffs using the same fluid part 83 22 2 295 532...guess will go with that. But how much fill quantity? It says 1.5L for each diff, is that accurate?

Sorry, no answer to the fill quantities. But I hope that's accurate. I ordered 3L for the wife's diesel.

Any updates as to ACTUAL fill quantities?


(ie not mfg spec, but what you actually need based on a realistic drain..)


TIA

I can't tell you actual but I only bought 1 liter and did not use it all, not even close.

Im leaning towards a liter for front, a liter for rear...

Yes, I bought 2 liters and used ~1.25L in total. I sucked out as much as I could of the old fluid. Or at least as much as my patience allowed.

I did replace the front diff fluid and decided to measure the quantity. Close to 600ml what came out so I decided to follow the SM and fill back the exact same.
The SM specifically states to fill with 600ml only. However, I personally don't think it is a big deal if one overfills it as the SM states the excess will foam out of the breath hole.

I have 2012 X5 E70 35i and thinking about changing the differential fluid for both front and rear. I'm not sure if I can use the below fluid for both and I don't see anything different for front listed in FCP Euro.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...3117525064ktlm

Any quality diff fluid will work for both the front and rear differentials (I used Castrol). For the AT and TC I only used the BMW fluid.