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-   -   2008 4.8i valve cover stuck (https://xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/x5-e70-forum/100179-2008-4-8i-valve-cover-stuck.html)

Boosted_s52 03-24-2015 09:37 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by BMWjason (Post 1031760)
Most likely the alignment tabs inside the valve covers are heat cycled deformed. They are located on the exhaust side of the valve cover. Need to carefully pry on the corner closest to the alternator. When you do get the valve cover off, make sure you remove the 3 tabs inside the valve cover or you will never get the cover to seat. Another BMW gotcha! Also you have to remove the fuel rail to get the drivers side valve cover to clear the Valvetronic sensor. Be careful cause that sensor is 300 dollars! You need to rotate the steering wheel with the universal joint union bolt clocked properly to remove the drivers side cover. Do not ever force anything! This is a level 8 repair as far as mechanic skill, it is the most difficult valve cover gasket I have ever repaired! Oil pools in the rear lower corner of the cover, need sealer in that corner as well as the half moons.
So I must remove the driver side fuel rail? Ive heard mixed reviews on this. I will remove it now and see if this helps. Thanks :thumbup:

BMWjason 03-24-2015 11:51 AM
I don't think it's possible to remove the drivers VC without removing the fuel rail. The Valvetronic Sensor is in the way, cant lift the valvecover over it without hitting the fuel rail. Not too difficult to remove, once the wire harness is out of the way. Make sure the plastic panels are removed from the rear of the engine compartment and the 2 reinforcement rails. I think the N62 motor should just be removed at 100,000 miles for a complete reseal job. The whole subframe is attached with 6 bolts. the engine and subframe are removed as a unit from under the vehicle. Need a lift and a subframe jack to do it. Not too difficult with the proper tools.

wsmeyer 03-24-2015 11:59 AM
I hope I didn't confuse you in the other thread. On the drivers side, the hard line going from the fuel rail to the fuel line will prevent the VC from lifting up high enough to be removed so you definitely need to lift the rail and injectors ON THAT SIDE up out the manifold. It's not necessary to remove the rail completely from the car though. The flexible line that attaches it to the other side of the engine allows you to leave the passenger side alone and just move it out of the way.

Boosted_s52 03-24-2015 12:20 PM
Update- I removed the fuel rail on the driver side and was able to get the valve cover our after some angling around.

Next question- Ive got the bolts out from around the driver side timing cover, however, there is one bolt to the right of the alternator that i can not access. Anyone have any ideas? I loosened the alternator and took the belt off. The bolt on the left side I was able to move the alternator and access.

Thanks for all the help!

BMWjason 03-24-2015 12:20 PM
That is correct, just move the fuel rail out of the way on the drivers side.

Boosted_s52 03-24-2015 12:23 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by BMWjason (Post 1031859)
That is correct, just move the fuel rail out of the way on the drivers side.
Thanks Jason, I did get the valve cover off finally. Can you provide any insight into removing the front driver timing cover? One bolt is still there on the right side of the alternator.

BMWjason 03-24-2015 12:29 PM
Bump on that, not sure about the front covers. I will say if you have to remove the alternator, I would replace the oil cooler thermostat housing gasket behind the alternator if your close to 100,000 miles. That gasket is close to failure at that many miles and is a 20 hour job from start to finish if you never have done it. Many times the front cover leak is mistaken for this leak. Alternator removal requires removal of the radiator "FAN" assembly, power steering pump/hydraulic hose brace on the front of the pump, then you can have access on removing the alternator. If oil has leaked into the alternator, this is a common cause of alternator failures on the 4.8i......

Boosted_s52 03-24-2015 12:33 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by BMWjason (Post 1031862)
Bump on that, not sure about the front covers. I will say if you have to remove the alternator, I would replace the oil cooler thermostat housing gasket behind the alternator if your close to 100,000 miles. That gasket is close to failure at that many miles and is a 20 hour job from start to finish if you never have done it. Many times the front cover leak is mistaken for this leak.
Well, a few weeks back I did do the alternator bracket. But at the time I was not prepared to do the covers. I jumped the gun and wished I would have done it then.

BMWjason 03-24-2015 01:22 PM
Boosted, saw your other post with the alternator bracket... See you have 95000 miles. I'm at 107000 miles on my 4.8i. Some things iv'e done on my 4.8i to prevent oil leaks and cooling system blowouts. I run ATP 205 reseal in my oil occasionally, mainly to revive the valve guide seals. Never had valve guide seal issues yet... Replaced my coolant pressure cap with a 1.4 bar unit off a 1 series BMW, bought genuine from dealer. Also replaced coolant with Motul Inugel Expert Ultra and distilled water at 75000 miles. The only leak I ever had was the rear of my drivers side VC around the half moons in the back. I did replace the upper radiator hose several months back which had a very minor leak around the plastic end... I'm not telling anyone to do what I do, just letting others know..

Boosted_s52 03-25-2015 11:45 AM
Update- WOW
I wish I would have done the timing cover when I did the "alternator bracket".... Anyhow, I some how got the timing cover off after about 2 hours of trying. No room to do anything wit the alternator and oil cooler lines in the way.
Put the timing cover back in about 30 minutes. Going to put the valve cover on the drivers side back today.


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