Fuel Pump PM on 2008 4.8l
 

So I have not seen much info on fuel pump failures on the E70, however, I deal with a lot of E46 and fuel pumps make be nervous.

So I have a 2500 road trip coming up next week an decided to PM the fuel pump in my 2008 4.8l E70 with 69k miles.

The other reason I wanted to replace the fuel pump is the fuel filter is integrated into the fuel pump.

Picked up a pump at the dealer via online purchase for $281. Pump comes with a replacement gasket and hose clamp for the locking ring if you decide you need to use it.

Have replaced many pumps in E46 and E39, but not on the E70.

So I dove in to replace the pump, it is clearly a PITA as compared to the E46 and E39.

Pop the bottom rear seat, not too bad, but I have heated seats so there are a few wires and the center seat belt is threaded though the seat bottom.

Pull up a foam piece of sound proofing. The biggest PITA is the carpet covers about 2/3 of the pump access and is a pain to work around.

4 bolts to remove the fuel pump access cover.

2 separate connections, one for the fuel level sender and one for the pump power. Once the 2 connectors are removed from the pump, suggest you start the engine to bleed pressure off from the fuel line before you disconnect things.

This is where the fun starts.

First the good news is the fuel lines are quick release and do not need tools to release them. You press the colored plastic section on the fuel line connection and it will release the quick connect fuel lines.

There is a single fuel line at the top of the fuel sender.

There is a single large hose clamp that needs to be released quite a bit in order to release the plastic locking bail. You will need a 1/4" drive ratchet and 6 mm socket to reach the horizontally positioned hose clamp. The clamp is difficult to access, the only way to get the clamp loose is with a ratchet and socket.

Once the hose clamp is released, it needs to be opened up about 1" or more so the clamp is very loose, over the diameter of the pump locking ring.

Once the clamp is loose, it does not need to be removed, but the plastic locking ring is split on one end and will need to be released/opened on the split end and lifted off the lip of the tank. It is hard to explain, but it is similiar to a split rim locking ring on a truck tire.

Once the locking ring is removed, then the fuel pump can be pulled straight up out of the tank. This is tricky due to the to rigid fuel line that connects to the pump externally, but is also additionally tricky due to a quick release fitting on the top of the pump, 2 return lines that a clipped into the center of the pump and a single ground wire that with a quick connection that seems to connect to the fuel level sender in the drivers side.

It is pretty tricky to get your hands INSIDE the tank opening to release the quick connector on the filter, release the 2 hoses from the drivers side and disconnect the ground wire that is wire tied to the pressure hose that connects to the filter.

What was a bit confusing at first was the external connection on the pump sender is actually the return line rather than the supply line. The supply line is actually connected internally on the filter and is routed to the driver side likely to the sucking jet pump passive fuel pump.

Getting everything back in the tank and connected is a bit tricky. Luckily I do not have huge hands, someone with really big hands will have some challenges. The most difficult part for me was connecting the ground wire that ties into the driver side sender.

Once you are lucky enough to get everything back connected inside the tank, you then can slip the pump seal over the top of the sending unit. The gasket is then pump on the tank lip and the sending unit can be seated into the gasket. You will need to hold the pump down while trying to get the locking ring on because the pump has some 2 spring loaded shafts to keep the pump seated on the bottom of the tank.

There is a notch on the sending unit that points to the rear of the tank and there is a raised ridge on the tank toward the rear of the car that need to be lined up and the locking ring has a notch that needs to be aligned with the pump. Then the hose clamp can start to be tightened wit the ratchet. This will take a while.

I am good with my hands, I can replace a pump in an E46/E39 in under 15 minutes, this thing was starting to kick by butt!!! But I probably was able to get the job done in about 45 minutes. If I would have pulled trim so the carpet could have been pulled clear, this would have made the job much easier.

I have about 2/3 a tank of fuel in the vehicle, in hindsight, I would suggest not replacing the pump unless the tank is below 1/4 tank.

I use kitchen trash bags to cover the carpet and to put the pump in to remove it from the vehicle without spilling fuel inside or on the carpet.

Also not about a pint of fuel will be trapped inside the center of the filter near where the pump is located in the sending unit/filter assembly.

Not sure if a lot of these pumps have been failing, but with the integrated fuel filter you do not have much choice for PM and may need to replace the pump assembly. What I also noticed is the female spade terminals were pretty loose on the original pump, the replacement pump appeared to have latching female spade connectors.

I know the E46/E39 pumps fail more often in the cold weather and will also go soft and loose pressure and volume before they fail. Typically I am seeing the E46/E39 pumps lasting about 5000 hours, you cannot factor mileage life for these pumps because for ever moment the engine is running, the fuel pump is running. So a lower mileage city vehicle may have as many or more run hours on the fuel pump compared to a highway cruiser with over 125k miles. For example my 2006 E46 pump failed last November with 82k miles, but the E46 is a daily commuter in a major metro area and rarely sees over 20 MPH average speed on the OBC between each fill up.

Although this is not a DIY, it will hopefully give some an idea what may be involved in the pump/filter assembly replacement. It would also be good for anyone that has had a pump failure to report in on what year their E70 is and how many miles were on it when the pump failed.

Just receive my Fuel Pump Recall notice this evening.

Time to submit for reimbursement.

Recall covers "certain 2007-2012 BWM 5 Series, 5 Series Grand Turismo, 6 Series Coupe, 6 Series Convertible, X5 SAV and X6 SAC vehicles".

I got the recall letter this morning as well. However, the replacement part is not available yet, per this letter. Guess have to wait.

Question: Is the defective fuel pump module part of the "high pressure" fuel pump?

Can I get a part number on this ? 08 4.8 showed 1/2 a tank and left me stranded, changed fuel pump relay and still nothing , 94k on cluster is replacing the fuel pump all I need to do? Thanks guys

Fuel pump for the 2008 4.8l E70 is part# 16117195464

But check to see it may be recalled and BMW may be on the hook for the repair??

This fuel pump is not so fun to replaced, it is not a 15-30 minute job like many of the earlier models!

Thanks for the reply ! It is recalled but I have not received the final letter :( which states sometime in spring 2008 . The fuel pump is on the passenger rear correct? Also is their anything else I should check before replacing it I really wish bmw would just do it since they recalled it but I can't just wait around eather thank you guys

Forget about waiting on a letter from BMW.

Go to this site and plug your 17 digit VIN in, you will have airbag and fuel pump recalls would be my guess - https://www.nhtsa.gov/recalls

If the fuel pump is recalled, call the dealer and have them tow it in, they are on the hook for the fuel pump if the recall falls in your VIN!!

Yep those are the 3 recalls! I received the first letter which states they will send a 2nd letter when parts arrive with an appointment . Will they be forced now to do it since my car won't start ?

I would call the dealer and speak with them.

The issue is your car is down and the pump is recalled. The recall is Emission Related, not driveability related so you should be prioritized.

Also make sure the idiot Service Advisors are not confusing the Airbag recall and availability issue with a fuel pump availability.

Hopefully you will get a tow and a loaner out of it???

I replaced my pump at 66k miles because fuel pumps are consumable and I was going to be making a number of 2200 mile round trips in the vehicle and I did not want to be stranded on the side of the road for a failed fuel pump!!

I may have them reimburse me for my replacement pump I installed unless they changed the part number and update the pump assembly.

Thank you for taking the time getting back to me I will call them and see what they say! I was just going to bite the bullet and buy a used one and replace it but I will call first

NEVER buy or install a used fuel pump, not worth the time or the lack of reliability. Plus this is not like and E46 where I can remove the rear seat, replace the pump, install the seat and start the car in 13 minutes!!!!

I'm gonna contact the dealer tomorrow just needa pick the right one they definitely should not make me wait any longer now that the car isn't starting. Just sitting in my garage by any chance is their a diy on the fuel pump

How much fuel is showing in the tank??

If the level is approximately 1/4 tank, the fuel pump may have "Soft" failed and may still be running.

You might as well remove the back seat bottom, very easy, then remove the fuel pump access cover and you will be able to hear the pump running during the prime phase.

If the pump runs and there is approximately 1/4 tank of fuel, you will need to add a few gallons to get the engine started, then keep the tank at least 1/2 full.

If the pump does not run, you can tap the pump ring with the butt of a hammer, fairly hard, and it should "jar" the pump into running again. You can probably drive the car a while after you get the pump going if there was just a bad spot on the pump armature.

If the dealer has the pump, have it towed in because BMW should pay for the tow due to the recall.

The tank reads 1/2 a tank when it died . It has a gallon atleast now ,sorry for the rookie question but I understand their is 2 units . Is the pump on the driver side or passenger side ? I will try this thanks

The electric fuel pump is installed on the passenger/right side of the tank.

Forget about what is listed/installed in the drivers/left side of the tank, this is a passive siphon pump which rarely has any problem. No moving parts to fail on the driver/left side.

Checked the pump and no sound completely dead even with the banging of the hammer :( will call BMW if not will have to buy a used one for the time being >_< thank you so much ! I accidentally managed to hit the plug on the fuel pump and it accidently broke some of the plastic clips housing:(

Did you attempt to start the vehicle after banning on the pump with a hammer?

The pump does not run continuously unless the engine is cranking or running.

I would find it VERY hard to believe that there is not a NEW fuel pump in somebodies inventory. BMW also can and will be able to get parts the next day via the standard parts distribution assuming the pump is in one of the typical warehouses.

BTW, do you have another key you can try as well?

I also assume you have done the basics like checking fuses?

Fuel pump relay can also be a problem area, but the pump is the most likely problem.

Did you remove the connector to the fuel pump and look for a melted connection like in this thread - https://xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/...mall-leak.html

Wow i did not crank the car at all -_- the only relay I replaced was the fuel pump relay , as far as the fuel pump fuse I did not locate it can you point me out the correct fuse , I did remove the connector and it looked clean as far as a spare key I don't have one. Even though I banged the fuel pump would I need to repeat this process since I did not attempt to crank it

If you can have someone crank the engine while banging on the pump this would be ideal.

You can use the end of the wooden handle to bang on the top of the pump and/or use a block of wood and then bang on the block of wood so you do not damage the wiring or the hoses.

Thanks I'll try that today and keep you updated as far as fuses can you point me into the right direction. Thank you tons for your patience

Check your owners manual or Google search, I do not have time to spoon feed you this morning!

Ahaha you have been great ! I'll keep you updated

Updating, towed vehicle last night right around closing time at the dealer , They called me today in the afternoon keeping me updated but unable to diagnose my no start. I told them I just need my fuel pumped changed under the recall, long story short they had 1 pump in stock back in January a customer never picked it up. They installed it and car turned back on picked it up around closing time today ! Did not pay anything hope it can help anyone else thanks a lot guys ! Specially jfoj

How many miles are on your X5 at this point?

Wow, the dealer is unable to diagnose the no start condition!!! I guess this is the case of the foolish techs that hook up the diagnostic computer to the car and it does not tell the tech that there is a failed fuel pump?? Generation Text is an entire generation of kids that cannot think for themselves or solve problems.

Fuel pump failures are COMMON on every model and this is old school diagnostics. Either a $4 can of starting fluid and/or checking the fuel pressure with a fuel pressure gauge.

For future reference, I often check with the parts department for part availability before I even drop my car off. Sometimes I buck the system and will even order the part before I take my car to the dealer if I know what the problem isl, this way I know when the part gets in, the dealer cannot tell me they do not have parts!!!

Glad you are back on the road. This story will start repeating itself over and over as these vehicle get up in miles, however, fuel pump lifespan is more an hour factor. I estimate these fuel pumps are lasting around 5000 hours. Remember that for every second the engine runs, so does the fuel pump. So a City Dweller that sits in a lot of traffic or at stop lights and stop signs may have as many or more hours on the fuel pump at a low mileage as a Highway Warrior that has higher mileage. So you cannot really use mileage to gauge the life expectancy of the fuel pump.

Since many of these vehicles have a recall for the fuel pump, I would highly suggest getting it replaced on BMW's dime before you are stranded somewhere.

:(
 

Hey guys sorry to bother but I thought my nightmare was over , since the fuel pump recall was performed im still now stuck at 1/2 tank and indicator "fuel range" on my display is counting up instead of down varies between 132 and 130 miles this stupid gauge is what made my fuel pump burn out and leave me stranded without gas any ideas? P.s I drove 3 miles home and still stuck at 1/2 tank p.s I read the syphon jet would be the first culprit?

First off the fuel gauge did not cause the fuel pump to fail.

So the question is did you have fuel level problems before the pump failed? It sounds like you did??

You need to search how to use the "Hidden OBC Menu" and it will show you how to see the fuel level in each 1/2 of the fuel tank.

http://www.scoopz.com/m5board/E60_Hi...structions.pdf

The siphon pumps rarely have problems, usually only if someone has bee screwing around inside the fuel tank.

You might remove the rear seat bottom and check the driver/left side sending unit wiring and make sure there is no rodent damage. I am sure if you search you might even be able to find sending unit resistance values.

I have seen a few instances where the metal float arm pops out of the plastic sending unit arm causing erratic fuel levels. This usually happens with "new" assemblies where the metal arm pops out of the plastic sending unit arm in shipping.

The Hidden OBC Menu will hopefully allow you to see the level in each 1/2 of the fuel tank. I have not watched my E70 closely, but most other BMW's once below 1/2 a tank the drivers/left side starts to drop lower than the passenger/right side of the tank. By 1/4 tank usually the drivers/left side should be empty and stay empty unless there is a hard right turn to slosh fuel over, then it will pump down again quickly.

Fuel level senders are also known to have problems as well with restive slider.

I'm confused...what makes you think you're "stuck" at 1/2 tank? I'm not seeing that you added fuel, and a 3 mile drive home does not use enough gas for the needle to move.

As for your fuel range, it doesn't surprise me it went up. Dealership probably had it idling or took it for a short test drive to check out the fuel pump, so any constant speed driving would make the fuel range estimate go up, especially if you took the highway home.