Quote:
Originally Posted by bawareca
(Post 1040603)
I repair these a lot, I always have a few at home. As a matter of fact, by now 80% of the pre-2006 navigation units need repair.
The main problem is the BGA chips start to develop a cold solders underneath them (figuratively said, BGA have no pins). Pretty much the same problem as the Playstation 3, Xbox, etc. If you try to update/reprogram yours and it has loose connections the update may not go thru and the unit will be completely dead. But if it is a HW problem this is imminent. I can send you a special recovery disks for the CCC if you want to try and can help you with instructions if you want to try to repair your unit.
http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/...psuymx0pis.jpg
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I really appreciate the offer and the great info. I may take you up on that shortly, as I must resolve this. What you said about the update possibly failing is probably exactly why the Autologic folks advise against their customers updating these units. It makes sense, how could a shop justify the risk of bricking a customers erratically functioning unit? They could end up buying the customer a new unit. But if it is a HW problem, I'd certainly want to repair it rather than replace the whole unit it if it's not too difficult. But while taking apart computers, laptops, or swapping a nav screen on my E53 is pretty much in my wheelhouse, if it's a matter of micro soldering, that's something I would rather have done by an expert.
However, I did check the battery out this morning, and it is at least slightly suspect. So I think I need to address that first.
With a VOM, after the car sitting all night, I got 12.35 V at the battery, and from my understanding, it should be more like 12.75 V. Not good.
I have a little Solar digital batter tester. That showed 12.49 V, but when set for the 900 CCA the current AGM battery is supposed to have, it showed 997 CCA. It also showed the green LED indicating the battery was good, but significantly, it also the yellow LED indicating that it's weak and needs a charge. So this afternoon, I'm going to put it on the battery charger for a few hours, and see the result. If the CCC starts functioning normally, I guess that means it's time for a battery, as there's no reason it should be weak...the car has been in constant use.
I really have no idea if the current battery was properly coded to the car, so it may not be getting the proper charge either. I could be wrong on this, but as far as I know, the only way to remedy a situation with where a battery was installed at some point in the past without being coded, is to start fresh with a new battery, and immediately code it...which I can certainly handle with a friend's Autologic.