It is a very easy replacement, about a 2 on your 1-10 scale. Then reset the code and your done.

How was the DIY on this one? What was your take on it? any advice? :)
Thanks.

I didn't see a DIY on it in this thread so i put this together today.

Excellent contribution!!!! I've added it to the DIY section.

Thanks for the DIY and good buildup of confidence. :)
Does anyone know a good parts list?
e.g. TV obviously.
o-ring for TV?
Gasket for the EGR to Manifold?
Anything else? :)

Thanks all.

Well... Since you're going down the path of spending the money and replacing it, if it was me and my car, I'd first take it apart and clean it with some TB cleaner on the inside and some electronic contact cleaner on the circuit board.

Once removed, I would try to pry off the circuit board cover trying to do the minimal amount of damage possible. When putting it back, if needed, I would add a tad of ePoxy putty to secure it in place is feels loose...

Just a thought since, again, you've set your mind on spending the money on it. But concept is, you can't brake something already broken

But to your specific questions, I did remove it a few times and never replaced any of the seals. They are normally still good and malleable. I usually apply to the seals, o-rings and other rubber parts some NAPA Sil-Glyde Silicone Lubricating Compound.

Hello, I am curious if anyone has information about whether a throttle valve replacement is absolutely necessary. It's a $700 repair that I'd prefer not to make on my 2009 X5d. I asked dealership to run diagnostics for the check engine light and the prescribed repair was to replace throttle valve. I don't mind the check engine light staying on and the car does not go into limp mode. What's the downside of leaving it alone? I don't mind the minor shudder when the engine is turned off.

How will you be able to tell when a serious fault occurs that can damage your motor?

Also, WHY A DEALER? how much are they trying to steal from you for this?

Well, that's a good point. I'm glad you shared that. I hadn't really thought about it that way - thanks.

I was at the dealer for some recall work. It was indeed a poor use of $175 for the diagnosis. However, if I end up making the repair I will have my private mechanic do it ($700 vs $1100 at dealer).

BTW. Welcome!

Sorry the dealer scammed you for the 175.


Also, if you are pretty prompt in dealing with a CEL when it comes up, then troubleshooting is pretty easy: lights up, pull codes, fix.

People get into trouble when they drive around for a year or two with a CEL on, only taking it in when they notice driveability issues. But by then there can be a raft of codes and it make troubleshooting much more difficult.

Ive made it a habit to look for CELs on the dash when I am at lights, traffic jams, etc. Really amazing how common