best access to replace oil cooler gasket?
 

Just got done exploring a drip from lower front drivers side of 4.8 engine. Had bottom covers off but could not view the drip source well enough to be sure. The drip is not hitting alternator which seems to be in front and above it. I believe it is the oil cooler gasket.
Tomorrow I will remove the drivers side upper wheel well cover, that might give the best view I am hoping I can realize the right torx tool setup to replace the gasket and avoid a lot of repair time. I notice Sears has some torx ratchet wrenches

$500 labor plus parts?
 

A neighbor had a come to you bmw mechanic replacing the valve seals on his 2005 x5. He was using a seal replacement tool that allows him to replace.the seals.without pulling the heads. He charges $1500.for.the labor on that.

Told him I had the oil cooler gasket drip. He said that required removing the differential. He said $500 labor ... so much easier than valve.seals? Wish I knew what was required.for.sure but seems $500 is a deal?

I just did it a couple months back. It's not really a difficult job at all and ALL done from the top.

So is the.pelican article for e53 what you did?
Remove fan but not radiator?
Remove motor mount?
Or what?
What steps please, what online info?
Thanks

What WSMEYER is saying is that it is much easier to replace the oil cooler seals than it is on engines that do not have an oil cooler. So, no motor mount to remove, no alternator bracket to remove. I think you remove the alternator and then you have access to the oil cooler connection to the block.

I plan on doing this soon.

More stuff equals less to do? what?
 

A bit weird that you have another thing added (the oil cooler) and then you need to do less to remove-replace the gasket.

So you remove the alternator and then access the oil cooler from what direction? From below isn't likely. From the front as laying below or from the front as laying above? Seems one needs to do a L to reach into the hole?

After you remove the alternator follow the oil cooler lines down with your hand to the thermostat block where they attach to the block. The bolt in the center will remove both lines from the block and then 4 e-torx bolts to remove the thermostat and replace the gasket.

I don't think anyone's done a DIY because there is no way to see the thermostat where it attaches to the block. You have to do all this by feel.

Do oil cooler lines disconnect at o-rings that should be replaced? Can one see these or is it by feel?

The o-rings are on the hard lines that come off the thermostat when you remove the center bolt. At 70k mine were still plyable and not deformed so I reused them but if I had thought about it before hand I would have replaced.

They are #12 here:

RealOEM.com - Online BMW Parts Catalog

just need a blind bmw mechanic
 

Thanks ... except not being able to see it doesn't sound bad. ;)