Yeah...

IMO this story will have more chapters.

Hello, there is no oil in the expansion tank at all, coolant is clear. The picture is of the oil fill hole and the oil fill cap on the engine.

^Agree.

The issue is coolant>>>>oil

Not oil into the coolant.

Just a random google quote:

Update - Oil is black no white or soapy deposit at oil pan. Water pump might be good, what he found was that my alternator was toasted and was over charging the system. The Water Pump was getting 19V and shutting down to protect itself. He tells me that a new alternator is needed and programming it to the car. Can I get a used one from a junk yard since a new oem one is upwards of $850 while one from previous x5's run around $150. What do you guys think, here is a pic of the results from the diag screen.

http://i666.photobucket.com/albums/v...pst0sbzoxg.jpg

I understood the photo was the oil filler cap. My point was there are several ways for coolant and oil to mix. Head gasket is obvious, particularly with overheat, but oil cooler gasket is another possibility that's not so obvious.

Good news on the oil. If you had extensive water/coolant in the oil everything under the oil fill cap would be milky white. The drip on the torx screw at 12 o'clock and elsewhere looks like normal engine oil.

This is the first I've heard that alternators need to be programmed/coded. I'm almost positive my E60 and E70 alternators don't need it. A salvage yard unit should be fine. 19+ volts has probably cooked the battery also.
You'll have to keep an eye on the coolant level. Time will tell if the oil filler emulsion is coolant from leakage or simply condensation. Does X5 see lots of short trips?

pshovest who ever had this car never cleared the codes there were over 70 codes stored in the system.

A new battery was put in sometime in June 2015 right before I bought the car but it was never registered to the system, causin the alternator to keep pumping harder thinking it was the same dying battery.

After he cleared all the codes, engine fan was behaving normal, water pump was behaving normal, the SAV was driven for over 40 minutes and no overheating. Only fault that came on was for low battery voltage. He is keeping it one more day to see if the alternator really needs to go if it fluctuates the voltage output like it was doing before.

I'll know more tomorrow hopefully this took care of the problem and for now I don't have to spend the money on all those new parts.

Here are all the codes that were stored, none are present anymore apart from he water pump and low voltage. I only have had the car for the last 6 months. The pdc codes I know cuz I got rear ended, and the tailgate light I was searching for the thump metal noise and had taken it apart.

http://i666.photobucket.com/albums/v...pszqzj81lk.jpg

http://i666.photobucket.com/albums/v...psn6az2kte.jpg

http://i666.photobucket.com/albums/v...ps1jmssdmi.jpg

http://i666.photobucket.com/albums/v...ps0s43vkga.jpg

http://i666.photobucket.com/albums/v...psapt85jky.jpg

http://i666.photobucket.com/albums/v...psmnuwfofi.jpg

http://i666.photobucket.com/albums/v...psusspt6le.jpg

http://i666.photobucket.com/albums/v...ps8xfwjhf1.jpg

http://i666.photobucket.com/albums/v...psu39agcdg.jpg

This is ridiculous! It is overcharging 19V at 0 engine RPM. Someone created perpetuum mobile ;) If the alternator is overcharging over 16v there will be codes for overvoltage in most modules.

Bad battery would be my first guess......

Hi did you see my other pics, it shows undervoltage or overvoltage at most modules. Let me know what you think after looking at those. Thanks.