35d: 40mpg, try to pass, engine dies
 

title edit - should be 40MPH
Driving along at about 20%? throttle at ~40MPH, press the throttle to ~70%, engine dies and I coast to the side of the road. First time this has happened.

I try to restart, engine won't fire. Removed the key, try it again and it fires just fine. Drive conservatively for 45minutes with no problems. Tried to recreate the scenario and condition. Engine dies again. Drove home at light throttle with no problems.


I used INPA to read the 28 error codes stored in memory. They are all over the place. I think that’s typically battery related but I had mine fully tested a few months ago it was good as new. I cleared the codes.


Two days later, after about 20 minutes of city driving, the engine dies with ~10% throttle at ~20MPH. The second restart attempt was successful and I was able to slowly drive home.



Another error code dump found reappearing 4 errors codes.


JBBF, Junction Box - Passenger : A6D1 (Auxiliary water pump)
DDE: 4B99 (Injectors, bank 2, activation)
ZBE, idrive touch controller: A2CD (Control unit, undervoltage)
KLIMA, Heater/automatic A/C control: 9C55 (Electric auxiliary heater)


First theories are a shorted injector coil or a shorted Aux. water pump coil (it’s electric). Next step is to disconnect the Aux water pump connector and see if the engine dies while driving.

Working this vehicle can be a real PITA without a repair manual. I have TIS but only up to 2008. Hours of google searching reveals very little. There’s an online TIS but it doesn’t really provide enough information. What are the BMW techs using to repair these vehicles? Any know where I can find a wiring diagram?

If you battery is over 4 years old, replace it. Walmart actually sells a replacement that works great. These cars are very temperamental to low voltage issues. Make sure you register the new battery so the ECU knows its now a new one. I was chasing a million electrical gremlins in by 335xi and my wife's 35d X5 and two new batteries fixed them all. You have several codes that all can be due to low voltage.

+1

Also, check for the plastic partitions at the back of the engine bay. They commonly crack/split and leak water which corrodes injectors with the car dying on acceleration just as you describe. If you are unaware of it, this link will be very interesting reading. Some of the codes are the same as yours, and the symptoms seem nearly identical. If your engine partitions are cracked (should take about 2 minutes to check), then injector corrosion is likely the issue.

Hope that helps.

Stephen

Split partitions - we have a winner. Will try to chase the stealership to fix it as it is an SIB but looks like that still leaves me with a bad injector. Thanks for the link.

Found a website that lists the SIBs. So many for my vehicle!

2010 BMW X5 Technical Service Bulletins (TSB)


Thought of the battery but my battery cranks like a champ even at -15degC.

^^^^^^ This ^^^^^^^

Injector 5 shorted, replace injector, code injector, remove and trash the foam over engine (that the only thing it's good for is collecting water), fix partition (the new center piece is now made of hard plastinc instead of some sort of cardboard).

Injector number 5....
It strikes again

EXACT scenario for me just 3 weeks ago...dealer replace #2 injector under CPO...next day, highway speed, same result. Took back to dealer, replaced ALL injectors, been working great ever since!

Finally had a chance to dig into this starting with the partition replacement. BMW unfortunately won't replace any SIB documented issues.

Looks like a corrosion problem, no? That bolt from the rear acoustic cover looks like it came off a 20yr/old vehicle. It was a 5mm socket cap screw.

http://i.imgur.com/PODixBK.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/yVWxYnr.jpg

You guys guessed it, unlucky #5. Obvious from the corrosion!
http://i.imgur.com/ziWjF7c.jpg

Design of the partitions are much improved especially the center. It can't leak between the joints due to the co-injected rubber flaps/edges. The material has also changed as you can see from the photo below. They've added a blowing/foaming agent to the plastic but didn't change the thickness. I'm embarrassed to admit that I cracked the right side partition during the install. It as brittle as a potato chip and about as thick as one where it cracked. Added some epoxy and now good as new. Took the SOs watering can and testing the drainage. No leaks in the joints but the left side drains dangerously close to the DDE case.

My outdoor parking situation may have accelerated the corrosion because my driveway in on a 5-7deg incline and I park front down so the rain/melting snow drained forward over the broken partitions. Now I will only park backwards so it only drains out the sides.

http://i.imgur.com/K15rcOk.jpg


I disconnected the electrical connecter on injector #5, sprayed the entire area with WD40 and used compressed air to clear the excess.

After assembling it all, I took it out for about 20 minutes. Once it reached operating temp,I stopped on it a couple times then drove home. It ran perfectly. We'll see how long that lasts. I'm just very relieved that the DDE isn't toast. That's also in an SIB.

Keep the foam off. And my recommendation is for everyone to remove it it serves absolutely no purpose other than trapping water and corroding stuff.

Good job on fixing it with WD-40!!!!

Drove 15min to lunch today, no issues. On the way back, engine dies. Restarted and kept driving 4 times until it finally wouldn't run. Didn't want to call a tow truck so I disconnected the #5 injector electrical connector because the codes confirmed a short circuit. It ran rough but I drove it home.

Resistance across the injector pins should be apparently between 170K and 210K ohms. While mine measured 210Kohms, the resistance between one pin and ground was 5K. The other injectors measured higher than my meter could read.

Took off the intake and tried to remove injector #5. Of course it is seized. Soaked it down with a penetrating lube. Hopefully I can remove it in a couple days.

While I'm in there, the intake manifold (including flaps) will be cleaned. There is about 1mm of CBU. Not too shabby for an M57 at 90K miles.

You are resourceful, I like it!!!!

Most tools I've seen to remove the injector attach to the body of the injector by removing the solenoid. There's picture of homemade tools that go this route and you can get crafty. Alternatively, they have them on ebay and you'd still be ahead than paying someone to do it. You could also try to crank the engine over with all the injectors disconnected and see if compression pops it out...

You may know, but the new injector will have to be coded. The car is derivable but it may throw a code either immediately or as it tried to run the zero quantity adaptation. If you don't have the tool to code it yourself, take a picture of the injector labeling and/or write it down so you can give it to the technician

Thanks for your updates. I got the codes 4b99 and 438d with stalling and restart fail. Power down wait minute, restart OK. Misread the 4b99 code as injector 2 when it meant bank 2 (aka 4 5 6).
It just got worse, until I couldn't get home.

I had removed the foam when i did intake cleaning and fitting a ccv oil separator which required houses across the top. I didn't notice the crack there until reading the bimmerfest thread: Error code 4B99 and 483D - Bimmerfest - BMW Forums
57 dollars for piece of crap plastic... hmm
I dont trust the replacement even, so this looks interesting Engine compartment bulkhead plastic/rubber partition flexible epoxy repair - Bimmerfest - BMW Forums

Corrosion is funny where issues can crop up a year or 2 later, like we had with hurricane Sandy on underground electric lines exposed to risen salt water.

The other day I took the manifold off and tested the injectors to ground. 1 to 4 beyond meter can read.

6 - one pin 250ohms! Other 20kOhm
5- 150k / 20kOhm

Originally I ordered one injector but luckily the eBay vendor didn't ship yet so I added another to the order. $360 new each, using the Bosch number
0445115077 for search, verifying the pictures and other part numbers for 335d/35d.

Sprayed a bunch of kroil around both injectors to soak for removal. Hopefully they come out easy, then I'll clean the bores with a vacuum and narrow hose. I've done injectors on my past VE TDI, so I'm not concerned. Coding I understand can be done in ista Rheingold.

What tool are you using to remove the injectors?

How did you test the injectors?
Step by step (with pics) would be super helpful to me (maybe post in DIY thread?).

I get blue smoke on cold starts, as well as sooty tail pipes.

All points to unburned diesel as likely causes, and thus faulty injector(s).

Also, in Rheingold, saw 4590 code (DEE: Rail-pressure plausibility delivery-controlled) a couple weeks back.

Sorry no pictures today. It was on and off rain so I had to rush the job. I tested the injectors electrically by disconnecting the plug, setting a meter to ohms, clip one lead to ground, a bolt on engine perhaps. Other lead touch the pins inside the injector connection. If you havent used a meter on funny plugs its kind of tricky to find the inside pins. Your code doesn't sound like the injector wiring fault though. You could have a sticky injector, who knows?

The rail pressure code could be a leaky injector? I don't know enough yet about these cars, I had a TDI before this which was so much simpler.


To remove the injectors my friend welded me what this guy used: DIY: 335d M57 Fuel Injector Replacement
A good DIY on removing injectors and replacing. Just make sure to soak them, makes it way easier to remove them, and even then my number 5 injector was hard to get out!

See the link i put in my last post for the tool to make.

Anyway runs good but ista d /Rheingold doesn't want to save my injector code! Says not o.k.
Below that it said use aaaaa5g if the code doesn't work. That saved over my old values for 5 and 6. Anyone have an idea? I'll try tool 32 tomorrow, just annoying weird stuff like this spooks me.

Using updated Rheingold same stuff,

tool32,
error_wrong_ima_code

What gives?

Are you saying Steps #13 and #24 in attached screenshot did not work for you in Rheingold?

I have had the same problem last year with '09 335i. No matter what I did I was not able to store the new values.

Enter lower case and make sure you enter '0' vrs 'O' or '1' vrs 'I' or '5' vrs 'S'
The IMA number includes a checksum so the error comes with a false character.

Yes i used the Rheingold injector quantity adaptation from service functions.
What is also weird and stupid, in Rheingold 351 or 404.x there is no actual display of the injector balance, just the FUB which is info. So I can't check what the balance values are at idle, anyone know how to do it with another tool?

One of the codes is A6MBIMZ
I just tried i, 1 and L, neither work in Rheingold or tool 32
Tried caps, tried lower case, no go.
The injector is genuine Bosch like the photo on fixmyvw.com who sells them too.

Rheingold says to put aaaaa5g if values don't save ok.
That value works fine on Rheingold and tool 32.

Annoying, maybe I need to check ista p if there is a dde update.

Any detriment in mileage or power? I wonder if the dde was updated and they adjust on the fly without the need for manual calibration. I'll snoop around Rheingold some more. Maybe I need to reset some auto adjustments?

The documentation on Rheingold is ok, but lacks depth if issues crop up.

The gas engines may throw codes for too lean or too rich mixture. Diesel ones may get away with no fault.

So you just have to deal with an uncoded injector, using the default prescribed code that rheingold/etc states? I wish I knew how the coding worked. Really, if it was a formula with a letter that was a "checksum", you would think it would be universal, like to us- a phone number using 3 numbers for area code, etc.

Fixed it, turns out there are 2 sets of 7digit/letter codes on the injector! Confusing Germans :) the top by the line is the one to use
A cheap usb endoscope came in handy to get the codes by the injector nut.

The smooth running control is tucked inside troubleshooting, not very intuitive if you were used to vag com
I know inpa is more basic like vag com, buy I could never get the ecu script to work... Dde73n57c0 gives me errors... Maybe is windows 10 fault