You can also try to reset CAS in Rheingold by doing:

"Reset the Car Access Systems
The following methods are available:

- Using service functions: Service functions -> Drive -> CAS -> CAS reset

- Using control unit functions under CAS


Note: Reset can be recognised at the START/STOP button.
When resetting the CAS, the START/STOP button illumination is briefly deactivated."

FIXED!!
 

After I swapped the injector, the documented fuel bleed procedure is to press start without pressing the brake. That will operate the low pressure fuel pump for about a minute. I initially did that twice. After it wouldn't start, I must have primed the pump 6-8 times when using INPA.

Rheingold also has a fuel pump priming procedure which runs the LPFP for about 3 minutes. I did that twice. No change.

Pulled out my manual bleeder, removed the HP feed line to the #1 injector and made an air tight connection to the bleeder. I pulled 25 in of hg and nothing came out. I cranked the motor for 5 seconds. A tiny amount trickled out. Did this four times (pulling as much vacuum as possible each time) and I pulled about 200ml of fuel out of the rail.

Feeling quite confident at this point, I reassembled it all and hit the start button. No fire after three 5 second cranks.

I connected Rheingold to read the rail pressure while cranking. 5 second crank I see a couple bar of pressure. Off for a couple seconds and cranked again for 15 seconds which registered a max pressure of 45 bar. Off for a couple seconds, cranked again and by 10 seconds, I was up over 200bar and it started!!!! At the beginning of each of these cycles, the rail pressure came up faster and faster.

I took it out and the engine runs super smooth at idle, cruising and WOT. It now starts right away as it did before. No DTCs set.

I wish BMW's bleed procedure would have documented a similar procedure instead of LPFP operation for 3 minutes.

Thanks for the update and glad you got it running!! Good job!!:thumbup:

In older diesel engines with mechanical injection pump (without any electronics),to bleed the high pressure line people used to crank the engine while loosening the high pressure line at the injector until fuel starts coming out from the connection.Yes you are right about rheingold.There is no procedure mentioned in it that says to bleed high pressure line.Few months ago there is another user here who replaced one injector on his X5 but he never mentioned anything about bleeding.Don't know how he got it running.

Great job in getting this resolved!!!!

I'm not sure if it is relevant at all for this, but whenever I replace the fuel filter, I follow the bleeding procedure. It is actually comprised of 2 steps, the first one is bleeding the low pressure line which operates the lift pump for 3 minutes. You can hear the air making it's way back to the fuel tank. The second step is a bleeding of the high pressure line. I never care to do that since I never had issue, but I'm wondering if perhaps that would have helped at all.

I do this with DIS, not sure if Rheingold has the exact same procedure...

Thanks guys. Sooo relieved to have it running again!

ZetaTre, I didn't find a HPFP bleeding procedure in Rheingold but that doesn't mean it isn't buried in there somewhere. I did read the repair instructions for injector replacement in Rheingold but no mention of it in there :dunno: Good to know though!

Hi All,

Recently had engine rebuilt and had same issue during starting. Really thank for the experience and suggestion posted to guide for better solution. Did many searches and nothing could help for this specific problem.

Experienced no starting even many times of cranking 5-10 sec. for 3-4 times. Checked no fuel rail pressure and had no clues why no fuel pressure even though completed bleed by ISTA a few times.

I have added some steps for reference:
- Get battery fully charged.
- Scan tool to bleed the system for 3-4 times until no air shows on clear plastic fuel hose at connection.
- Then, remove glow plugs (so that it will not fight for the compression during cranking; to efficiently crank as well).
- Disconnect fuel injector connectors.
- Connect scan tool to display fuel pressure.
- Crank the engine for 3-4 times with 5-8 sec. each. Watch the pressure until it raises to at least 250 bar. (I got 300 bar). Then stop.
- Install back glow plugs, connects etc. to make sure a safe engine start.
- That's it. It shall crank and start.

I believe these steps can save a lot of effort and battery power. I was having too many cranks (unsuccessful engine start) with not efficient method and battery almost drained.

Hope that helps for others.

I know dredging up an old thread but thought it worth adding what worked for me when I had to replace an injector.

As a few have said it can be difficult to get these engines running again after you've cracked open the fuel system. This may only be an issue if you open up the high pressure side

Here's what I did:

• Get the LPFP running - use a scan tool or ISTA-D
• 1 at a time loosen the nut on each injector slightly until air bubbles and diesel flow out - you may find you need to lift the pipe slightly to break the seal with the injector.
• Once bubbles stop, tighten/torque the nut and move on to the next.

In my case the engine started instantly with a slight rough running for 10-15 seconds

BMW X5 e70 won’t start
 

I had a bad injector #5 and changed it then car won’t start at all.
I checked see the list for over a week:

Checked for water in DDE box 👍🏽
Check in tank F pump working 👍🏽
Check relay for F pump👍🏽
Check fuses 👍🏾
Check cam sensor 👍🏽
Crank sensor ohms 12 👍🏽
Tried my spare key👍🏾
Gear position P👍🏾
Check rpm while cranking it didn’t budge👍🏽
Aws security system for key scan👍🏽
IBS sensor on the battery disconnect 👍🏽
Check engine ground 👍🏽
Checked CAS 👍🏽
Prime pump 5-6 times then start👍🏽
Code injectors that changed 👎🏽
Wire trace to DME continuity 👍🏽
Check up injectors harness for close inspection👍🏽
Crank crank crank until battery is dead charge it back and crank until it’s dead again and still no start👍🏽
Checked all the injectors 👍🏽
Still no start.

Scan with maxi diagnostics 801 got code 4B90
Cleared it and it didn’t return but still no start.

Scan with ISTA+ showed no faults.
I then followed these steps that was posted by another member and it started .
🔧🔧🔧🔧🔧🔧🔧🔧🔧🔧🔧
I have added some steps for reference:
- Get battery fully charged.

- Scan tool to bleed the system for 3-4 times until no air shows on clear plastic fuel hose at connection located in the engine bay left side just as it comes up from under the car.

Note if u don’t have a scan tool just do what I did, I removed my seat and access the fuel pump wires (see pic) then I used a car battery and powered the pump for 3-4 mins then I reconnected the harness back to the FP.

- Then, remove glow plugs (so that it will not fight for the compression during cranking; to efficiently crank as well). Be careful not to break then as u remove them.

- Disconnect fuel injector connectors.

- Connect scan tool to display fuel pressure.
I did this (see pic) because I had one but if u don’t don’t fuss it’s not like it will make the procedure work or not it’s just that with the scan tool u can see the pressure it has in the rail and the pressure it needs to be for ur car . If no scan tool just move to the next step. U would know of it works if the car starts after.

- Crank the engine for 3-4 times with 5-8 sec. each. Watch the pressure until it raises to at least 250 bar. (I got 300 bar). Then stop. Just to add that my car got to over 465 bar but as soon as I stopped cranking it dropped back to 4.3 bar so don’t worry if it doesn’t hold the pressure on ur scan tool.

- Install back glow plugs, connects etc. to make sure a safe engine start.

- That's it. It shall crank and start.

It did start for me perfect. Remember user TSSACAV as he was the person who put these steps to follow that worked for me, I am simply explaining it a bit better and also showing other ways it can be done. I also added a few pics.

Trying to upload pics but...

Just replaced #5 myself. What works for me is to unhook hard-line on #1, rotate 90° so you can attach mightyvac. Run the fuel prime function in ISTA. Be careful, this will make a mess. Then reattach, put intake back on and crank. Has started on first crank each time I have done it this way. Was never able to get it cranked only running the prime function.