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DavidF, Can you please elaborate on what you meant by "fiddle with the sensor" or how you recommend I go about using a spacer under the mounting point? Don't mean to sound dumb, just want to make sure I fully grasp the concept before I mess up anything. Thanks

So nobody has seen or heard of someone that only opted to add the the rear lowering links to only get maybe an inch or so drop (at most) out of the rear end in order to get a truly level stance?

The rear stance being higher does have a purpose. It reduces the aerodynamic drag under the vehicle.

Did you use a measuring tape and measure from the ground to your fender lip? Do this measurement on the front and the back (all 4 corners). This will tell you if indeed the rear is higher than the front. If it is, then lowering it so it rides level isn't a bad thing but dropping it so it looks like an overloaded station wagon is simply horrendous.

You can use auto-logic to code the rear ride height with new leveling links. IMO I wouldn't just do the rear w/o lowering springs for the fronts. Call around to some indie shops they will have an auto-logic, if you're near the west/memorial area call Tanaka Motors and talk to Marcelo. He's got one but I bet he will say he's never heard of someone doing that but if you dig up all the info he'll play if you pay. Either way it's great indie shop I've been going too for years when I don't feel like doing my work. Honest guy, was a BMW master tech/shop foremen for many years. Lots local gear heads use his shop and you"ll always see some race cars there. Make sure you tell him Michael K w/e70/90/M3 sent you...he just bought a nice e70 35D too!

If you have adjustable links you don't need to code anything.

The rear can be independently adjusted however you want it. You can purchase lowering links or have it coded. Either way, the stance of your car is your choice and you can lower or increase the height by these two methods.