2009 3.0 AC blowing hot air
 

I've search and read many threads for failed FSR, but I'm not sure if that's the root of my problem. My x5 has been sitting in garage for the last 6 months on a battery tender. I went to take it for a spin yesterday (88 degrees). I turned the AC on and it blows but I don't hear or feel the compressor kicking in. Does anyone know where the fuse would be for the compressor ? I want to check what I can on my end b4 taking it to the dealership as it is out of warranty. Can the freon evaporate from the car sitting too long ? Thnx for an input ! !

The compressor will not kick in if the freon is low. I doubt that a fuse is your problem.

Yes, if there is a leak, it can evaporate. I agree it's probably not fuse, but it's a smart place to start checking. Attached page from owner's manual shows fuse locations. You'll have to figure out which one. Maybe it's labeled on the fuse door.

Please do not go to the dealer.

A decent AC shop can do a diagnosis...if it is Freon they can do a leak test; if nothing is blatantly wrong, they can add a dye along with new Freon- then if in the future it leaks out, they will be able to see the dye residual.

Thanks ard !

HI, do you happen to know how much a AC shop will charge for this. BMW is trying to charge me $2800 for the leak

Adding refrigerant to the X5 has to be the easiest thing I have even done to a car. Not even kidding. Buy a can with the builtin gauge, start your car and put the AC on max. Connect the can to the low pressure side (it will only fit the low pressure side) which is very very accessible BTW. Read the gauge (will probably be below 25 psi) and squeeze the trigger while rocking the can in your hand. Let off the trigger read the gauge, repeat until you hit 30-ish psi. It will take you all of 5 minutes to do. :thumbup: You can probably buy cans with dye in it if that is a concern.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SHg2xRMnM38

This is good. Thanks

Not sure on the V8 but the low pressure port is right here (green circle) on the 3.0.

Do not just 'add freon'.... You can damage the compressor by overfilling.

The only way to PROPERLY service the AC is to pump it down- which removes the freon- it will automatically check for leaks- then refill with the proper amount by weight. The tolerance on fill is a few %.

This seems...confused.

I am describing a process for topping off freon, NOT 'fixing a diagnosed leak'. I just had it done on my other BMW, was $95 for labor and $48 for freon. Needed about 10 oz, last time it was serviced was 2009. (Same shop, sticker under the hood.)


If BMW is charging 2800 to fix a LEAK, then that is fixing a leak- not topping off freon.

How did this leak get diagnosed? What is leaking??

Any Idea how I "Pump It Down" Any videos or can you tell me what i need to do. Thanks

Sigh.

Buy yourself the AC machine, about $3k

https://www.amazon.com/Robinair-3428...8&s=automotive

Buy some freon.

Follow the instructions.



Disturbingly, instead of understanding my response and integrating that info into a coherent response, you ignore the request and ask 'is there a youtube I can watch on my phone and do it without any understanding of what I am trying to do'

Ill try again: DO YOU HAVE A LEAK? Yes No

What is the BMW dealer offering to do for $2800? ____________________ ___________________ ____________________

Excellent advice!!! :thumbup:

HI ARD..

Do I Have a Leak? Yes, I do. I thought I put that in my Original request when I said BMW Dealer is charging me $2800 to repair a leak.

Now I do not know where the leak is located, I know is not around the compressor because i fixed that last year with them and that's still under warranty. They called me yesterday and told me you have a leak and to repair it is $2800. I said No too much money I will pick up my car today.

All I asked was for some help.

But if you have a LEAK why i the world would you ask for a YouTube to "just top off the freon"??????????????

THAT is what didn't make sense. If you have a leak, you ask for help finding and fixing the leak. NOT adding more freon so it can also leak away.....

If you cannot figure out how to get the BMW dealer to tell you what is leaking and what SPECFOCALLY they will be changing for $2800, then you need to go to a new shop.

I was hanging out with my AC guy a week ago, working on my car and BSing...there is a sad, painful truth about AC system work:

1. You can inspect the system, looking for signs of freon/oil leaking out- but this is difficult. The oil leaves a telltale stain, but you need to be lucky to see this- most of the time there is plenty of other dirt/oil.

2. You can hook up gauges, but this doesn't tell the whole story. If freon has gone, you will not see much with gauges. At this point, the diagnosis tree has 3 branches- minor leak, needs freon, but will be fine.....major leak, added freon will just disappear....failure of a major component, will need Fixing

The problem here is that there is NO WAY to know which of these three options you will be on. Shops struggle with informing customers what the options are and what the possible choices are...

3. Definitive diagnosis requires that you evacuate the system, check to see it will hold a vacuum. IF IT HOLD A VACUUM, you have ruled out ONE of the 3 problems: the system isn't leaking. (You will also have extracted freon, and if the system WAS full, then that tells you there is something not working in the system unrelated to a freon loss)

4. You then refill the system, ADD UV LEAK FLUID, and button it up. Run it, look at gauges. If the gauges show you that you are not getting the specified pressures, you have a problem with (usually) the compressor. Other items can fail- crap in the expansion valve, other stuff- but those tend to be secondary failures due to a comp failure leaving debris in the system.

You say they already replaced the compressor last year, and therefor you KNOW it cannot be any of the prior work.

Why do you trust them?

IMO the only option (other than demanding info from them) is to take it to an AC shop for a proper diagnosis. Be prepared to spend $100-200.

**IF** this shop finds the leak was related to the compressor repair, get that in writing and raise hell with the dealer.

Sometimes it's as much knowing how or what to ask as it is where and who to ask.

But, I'd say you got some pretty good help from ARD, who by the way, is only trying to cut to the chase and not waste anybody's time (including yours) while actually providing sound advice/direction.

Edit: the dealer may have done a crap job when they last repaired it...they may thing 'ralphy is an idiot, we can prolly get him to pay $2800 and pay for our mistake'. One universal truth I have discovered over the last 30 years, customers think they can make decisions based on the 'facts' they alone uncover in conversations with mechanics/dealers/techs. As if careful analysis and wisdom will allow they to 'figure it out'. Sadly, with some places, they are being manipulated - and no amount of study nor understanding will get them out of their jam. Do not assume it isnt the compressor becuase they did it a year aog and it is under warranty.

In actual fact, a grenaded compressor that showers pieces in the system, followed by a piss-poor system cleaning is a PRIME way for a brand new compressor (or evap or whatever) to fail.

Here is where you are at a TOTAL disadvantage: the fox is guarding the hen house.... The shop may not have done an adeaute job. The currernt failure MAY be related to the old failure. (Or it might not) You will never get to the bottom with the dealer. (**I** might be able to, demand to know what they did, what pressures they are seeing, did they add UV before, where are they seeing it, etc etc) But if they are covering a failure from before it will be hard to know.


Anyway, find out where the leak is AND how they diagnosed it. Get that in wiring, before taking the car back

Part of that was my mistake, I thought I was still dealing with the OP.

Yeah, I don't think so. He specially quoted my post about pumping down and filling based on weight.


Anyway, I really tried to impart some advice on how to deal with AC stuff. It's not unique to BMWs. You see this with EVERY car brand. You could write the same script, just leave out the make and models......

OK, so I got my car back, and they said the following.

"Perform EVAC/ Found System empty, Fill and Charge AC System. Found Freon Leaking from the Evaporator, Replacement of Evaporator Needed."

Now I tried to make the case that they changed my Compressor on August of Last year, Maybe while changing it, they broke it. They said no because the compressor is in the Front and the Evaporator near the Dashboard opposite end.

The question I am asking is,
Where is the Evaporator located?
How much will a job like this to fix cost me, at an indie shop?
Can I put something like stop AC leak on it?

Now Keep in mind, I am no mechanic at all or familiar with parts.

Have you googled anything to look at a wiki or youtube explaining an AC system?

I wont get into details- 20 minutes of typing or a 45 second video. Give it a look.

The compressor moves freon between the condenser (by the radiator) and evap (in the dash). I do not think a failed comp can cause the evap to LEAK. I do not think working on the comp can damage the evap. I do not think that debris from doing a sloppy job would cause an evap leak. (note these are all 'dont thinks'- im not an AC tech)

How did they determine, conclusively, it is the evap? Using a freon detector and finding freon blowing out of the dash?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kwjcghZ3b8s

https://repairpal.com/estimator/bmw/...placement-cost

I cannot find a price on your part, but 200-300 seems possible? Id be OK with a behr replacement, if one exists

Based on the costs listed at repair pal, I would get another opinion/estimate.

I would do the following:

1. Determine how precisely they diagnoses the leak in the evap. Id demand this in writing.

2. Find a shop that will quote and AC evap replacement.

3. Once you chose a shop, ask that they confirm the diagnosis; determine of the prior work caused this failre; ...then probably do the evap replacement.

Thats all I got...

Looks like some work to replace.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kwjcghZ3b8s

Thanks ARD, I am checkng with Local BMW shops now.

Thank you for all the information you have provided me as well

Sniffing the condensate drain w/halogen detector is test method I use. However some cars like E34/E39's also have expansion valve & tube connections inside the evaporator housing, so leak could come from these in addition to bad evaporator. Leaking expansion valve was issue for one of my E34's. Need to determine if there are any connections inside E70 evap housing before committing to evap replacement.