I'd personally go with JR's stage 2 tune via European Tuning by Malone and JR AutoTuning

Tune out/delete the EGR ASAP to stop CBU

I've had the burger piggy back tuner, its a great low cost option that is very easy to add and remove. It works well, and gives a decent boost in performance.

There is a free egr mod where you add a resistor to the wiring harness, then you could add some cheap block of plates.

Personally that didn't exist when I setup my car. I'm running a JR stage 2 tune, with EGR disabled and DPF and SCR intact. Have been running this for 2 years with no issues. Car runs fine.

IMO the so called "piggyback" **tunes** are actually just boxes that distort the sensor inputs to the DDE so that it thinks it is one place on the map instead of where it actually it.

As a result, this **may** eliminate or limit safety features.

If I was tuning (and on two of my other cars I have) I will only do a tune that recodes the ECU. After the warranty is up OR when you are willign to pay to play.

The piggyback tunes that plug into the rail pressure sensor trick the ecu into thinking the pressure is lower than it is. On some there is a dial adjustment, where some have found past 80% can cause codes or no increase in performance. That happens because the fooling can end up exceeding the rail pressure relief valve which is not a good idea to do more than a few times, as it wears out or something.

For the cost of those boxes, a glorified hack, better to just get a tune for a bit more which won't stress your injection pressures.

I would never, ever plug something in to an ECU harness whose sole purpose is to fool the ECU/DDE by altering indications it uses to safely control the engine. These devices are not tunes in any sense of the word or capacity. They are cheap, lazy and foolish ways of increasing performance and power. What's available now is a small step above the "chips" that were available for some vehicles on eBay and other outlets years ago. Those "chips" were a resistor that you stuck on the intake air sensor plug thereby inputting a fixed, presumably cool, temperature/resistance to the ECM.

On diesels, all tunes inject more fuel to make more power. They do this mostly by increasing fuel pressures so that more fuel is injected during an injection event (all of the tunes use this technique). There is also some play in the duration of injection events.... But injection event timing tuning is fairly limited (diesel burns slow and the size of the injection window is small). The one thing DDE tunes can do that piggy backs cannot is also increase the amount of air (through increasing turbo duty cycle) so that all the extra fuel is burned properly (less smoke) and more air keeps EGT temps down.

Anyway the one piggy back tune many, many folks have used with good results is the Burger Tuner, it works by increasing fuel rail pressures. The problem with this approach is the DDE detects too much change in fuel rail pressure and throws a code, or can over time adapt around it (it has O2 sensors and a MAF and can detect too much fuel). So its effectiveness is limited, but its easy to add, easy to remove and cheap. It does work, and I think it's a good starter options, lots of folks have run them for years without issue (I did). But it's not gonna add a ton of power, about the same as a stage 1-2 tune would with stock components.

All tunes run the car outside its original specifications and eliminate engine features that are designed to prevent this out of spec running. It's what a tune does, run the car out of spec.

You can run a piggy back and a tune on the same car, some folks did this until the tunes caught up to compensate for fuel rail pressure drops at high RPMS. There are also upgraded fuel pumps available for the diesels when you need more pressure and volume... BMW R90 HPFP Pump for 335D and X5 35D

Lol, where did the bad chip touch you? Tell us?

I just recieved the JBD.
2012 35d, Any advice on how to raise it so that I dont kick up a code??

ItS set to min. I research and read that I should raise it gradually allowing the ECU to learn slowly so that it does not shock it. But the question is, What does slowly mean?

Set it to 80% and go from there. If you don't get a code move it upb to 90%... I ran the JBD box at 100% for 6 years before getting the X5 tuned and deleted. Of course it threw CEL every so often, but I just cleared them

In past testing someone saw in logging that running too high on the jbd would result in lower pressure because it exceeds the relief valve limit. Iirc, 80% was around that point.

So be safe with 80%, more probably doesn't add much power and could cause issues in the long run (the relief valve is not meant to keep opening and start to not seal properly.