Well that actually fits a condition I noticed yesterday - some shuddering when just coming to a stop. It looks like Lemforders are available from several folks on line, I'll need to pick up a pair.

Yup, it's not expensive for the parts. If you're going to diy, by the whole arm with bushings. It's not much more expensive than just the bushings. But let me tell you it's a big time saver to replace the whole arm, and it eliminates the need for a hydraulic press to replace the bushing.

I think I paid like 80 for both sides. The hardest part was getting the ball joint out. Don't use a cheap home claw hammer, you need a sledge, or 4-5lbs hammer. I broke a ball joint spreader tool trying to get mine out. Blew up,like a gernade.

Well I might consider that. Any torque specs for the bolts that attach it?
I still may look at the VC gasket just to be sure it's OK. I had to do that job a couple of times on my E53. The first drips I noticed were black, like engine oil, despite what the picture in my initial post shows. I just think the oil was mixed with water in that case.

use this, just translate to english. BMW TIS. Ïðîñìîòð äîêóìåíòà


I want to say the sub-frame bolt was 100nm plus 90 degrees. The swivel bearing was 80nm (the one that goes on the wheel carrier)

It was a pain to do the subframe bolt due to the lack of clearenece. Also do not tighten the bolts until the suspension is at ride height.

here is a good youtube video of doing the job on a 5 series. Its similar but not quite the same as our vehicle. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_An0EkkwI6U

I would expect the job to take at least 4 hours (if you don't have trouble). You have to lift the car, remove the wheels, remove all the shields, then get those suspension bolts loose.

Another pro type. DO NOT fully remove the swivel bearing nut. Loosen it to the top of the stud. So when you hammer the bearing out the stud won't mushroom and you'll be able to fit it out of the carrier. DO not use a household claw hammer, the bearing will laugh at you. Really use a sledge or heavy hammer, a lot of force and good aim! It will pop right out. I had to recruit my father in law who is a 6' 7" diesel truck mechanic. I spent all day trying to hammer the damn bearing out, bought a ball joint spreader, pickle fork, all of them did not work. So I called in thor, and he brought his short handle sledge, and a couple of hard whacks later he had it off. Its also a bit of a pain to maneuver out the control arm, clearness are tight.

BMW ball joint tool, crank it down. THEN use a short sledge on the end.

BBBRRRAAANNNGGG when it lets loose.