35d dpf issues
 

Ive been having on and off issues and finally got to replacing the tstat (looking at it it was the original one) now my dpf is essentially plugged, im going to try the liquid molly dpf cleaner and was wondering if anyone has tried it and any tips how to do so. Also i saw on a e90 post a guy punctures a certain vacuum hose which tricks the dpf into constantly doing a regain cycle once at operating temp which would be ideal in my situation.
Any help always appreciated

If the DPF is sooted to the point that a regen is blocked there are faults stored.
Is this the case? What BMW codes?
It is possible to still carefully complete a regen by other means than fooling the differential pressure signal to the DDE.
However, the DPF temps must be carefully watched while it is underway as it is possible to overheat and destroy the monolith.

I dont have the particular bmw codes but rather the generic codes which i can send if helpfull

From what i recall they put a hose with a tiny hole in it to make the dpf look not as clogged to the sensor.
Then they set Rheingold ista or carly to do a dpf regen and then went for a long drive to clean it.
As said be careful of the temperatures, watch it with torque, ista, or Carly.... I'd think keep it below 650 C.

It's a shame these bmw complain about everything but don't bother to monitor a thermostat which really is bad!

Is there magic number not to exceed?

I understand that but which hose in particular, im guessing its the differential dpf sensor and i would do this to the post dpf sensor vaccum line, the immediate generic codes are p244d, p323f, p045e, p2032, p0401

I would think you want to do it on the pre dpf line, bleeds the excess pressure, making the differential lower. I think the issue is when the differential pressure is too high, the dde refuses to run anything.

Magic number if you exceed 650C? 700C? I think would be safe maximums on pre dpf and pre doc. Pre doc is pretty much the temperature that is coming out of the engine exhaust header and through the turbo.
If it goes higher you can lift off coast, or put it in N to lower egt's. I wonder if the regen would even work with you idling, since its so clogged? No clue, I dont recall if what I read explained much about that

Makes sense, i think they describe it as once it gets to operating temp the regen stays engaged so maybe even while idling which is why the temp can spike higher than normal, any idea how to measure the vaccum on the hose?

It's not vacuum, It goes by pressure.
It's a single sensor with 2 lines. Let's say pre dpf is 3 psi and the post dpf is 1psi. The sensor would report 2psi differential pressure.
I read that thread a while back so I don't remember details.

In ista/Rheingold, there's a dpf service that gives you tests to run to check the dpf at idle, 2k, and higher rpm.
They have good values in mbar, like 80 mbar at idle and higher at 2k etc.
1000mbar is 1bar or 14.5 psi. 100mbar is 1.45 psi.
Try a small hole in the pre dpf hose to get it where you're close to what the test wants.
A clogged dpf would have high pressure pre dpf making a high differential.


Once you get that ok with your added hole, hopefully the dde will be ok thinking the dpf is not clogged.
set Rheingold to request a regen.
Drive gently, watching egt pre dpf... Probably best to do it at a time when traffic is low.
If all goes well after a while the regen will finish. Try another regen request, do it again.

After that maybe let engine cool to be able to safely remove the hose with the hole and see if the issue still happens. If not, maybe do another regen and a normal drive.

Here is a link to the original approach that I believe you are discussing:

Diesel Particulate Filter (DTF) - Bimmerfest - BMW Forums

See post number 9 for a discussion and picture of how lpcapital forced the regeneration.

Hope that's helpful. Good luck.

5mbar is a good idea like the thread says, you see which hose he tapped into. You might not need to force a regen if your dde is asking for it already.


Extended BMW 335d PIDs for Torque

This thread has the custom pids you can add to torque app to see differential pressure of dpf, etc.

I believe hes grabbing the line in front of the very last line, i just dont know how hes reaching it, does the plastic block which the sensors sit on come undone?

Update
Got ista, hooked up a sacraficial hose, ran the differential pressure test and punctured till read 4-5-6 repeated as it wouldnt remain constant, send a regen signal, drove to work and back 50 miles, got home noticed alot of soot where the hole is punctured, im hoping this is normal and got a light and reduce power untill i key cycled the car. Generic codes were p323f and p045e earlier i saw a mass airflow sensor code so im going to investigate the charge pipe

The soot would be expected. That line taps off on the exhaust side of engine after the turbo and before the dpf. I'm surprised it doesn't get so hot it overheats the rubber... I guess most of the heat gets dissipated by the time it touches the rubber parts?

MAF could be charge pipe, or if you accidentally disconnected the CCV lines, etc you get the idea with the air leaks what to check for.

I did smell a little burning rubber smell, the red charge pipe ur refering too correct. Cant find an aftermarket one so im guessing oem

There's an aftermarket lower pipe BMW 335D Upgraded Charge Air Hose for Stock and Upgraded Intercoolers

I was planning on getting it for a future chipping which runs more boost... Want mine for 100 shipped? Otherwise I'll just wait until it leaks

Something felt off while driving and noticed the hose to the dpf had burned through, replacing and retrying with a thicker hose

Update
Regens seem to be taking place, noticed a few smoke clouds at WOT, i do have CEL still on though but havent gotten any reduce engine power notices in a while
The generic codes are
P0101-MAF
P323f-?
P045e-?
P02cb-looks like an underboost

Any help to track down and remedy my situation is appreciated

Did you put back the lines as normal? It may take a while for things to settle back. If you can check with rheingold or carly, thebmw error codes would help us diagnose as they are more specific in description

I used another thicker hose and repunctured, im still learning how to use RGold but a list of odd errors are coming up where its saying it cannot communicate with radio etc, i may go ahead and purchase carly to help

If you have a laptop, a 20 dollar k+dcan cable works well with rheingold. OBDII 16pin Interface To USB Diagnostic Coding Cable For BMW INPA EDIABAS K+DCAN | eBay
Rheingold is here: CarTechnoloGY
You don't need sdp (f series cars) or ista/p (programming/flashes modules/ecu)

I recently purchased one and using rgold through a virtual machine, it's just a bit funky when i use it showing unable to communicate with several things,With alot of the branches in red when they seem to function fine, ill give it a try tonight see what it shows

Oh oops, rgold didn't make me think of that.
What kind of cable are you using, if the pcb inside isn't green you may have issues. My friend had a nice dcan cable that refused to work with my e70

Ill check the pcb but it was a new one from ebay im pretty sure its one like the link you sent but even while doing the backpressure test it would say communication lost and id have to just hit ok and it would continue to read the values

Inside your VM, go to device manager. Find the com port for the usb dcan. Right Click properties. Inside port settings, click advanced.
In that page, set the latency timer to 1. That can cause issues.

Also VMs can be flaky. What is your host OS? It's not a big issue even on my win 10 x64 laptop to use rheingold directly.

PM me if you have technical questions, in a past life I was in IT. :bustingup

Your a life saver, i appreciate it ill shoot u a PM tonight and really appreciate ur help along the way

Also check if pins 7 and 8 are soldered together. I recently got a cable off eBay and had a lot of trouble getting it to work. I found online somewhere that most of the cables come with pin 7 and 8 soldered together. I de-soldered it and added a switch. Now it works perfectly on my 35d.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You were right again, latency timer was off in the VM i plan on finding rheingold to use directly soon as this laptops sole purpose is to diag and maybe code, it was actually pretty nice to use it functionally. I got the following actual codes
003ff0-air mass measurement
00429a-dde boost pressure control
00452a- particulate filter
004674-4674 fuel injection rate
004779-low pressure exhaust recirc controller
00478f-low pressure exhaust recirc valve
0047c9-low pressure echaust recirc control
004d2d-message emf
0054c6-oil wear
006de6-sporatic emf fault
006f4e-no message

:wow:
Ran through the diagnostic steps of each to see if i could find my smoking gun
Did get a closing behavior of swirl flaps not ok which may have been me answering wrong on the yes or no

I would clear the codes and see which ones come back.
We don't know if these codes are from the original dpf clogging...

Yes i havent cleared any just tried to work through the problems troubleshooting, im going to go ahead and purchase the charge pipe seals since theres heavy soooting. Tried to run through emissions but my heated cat and cat were still not ready��

Readiness is ridiculous, it takes forever. You can have no issues and have to wait. It's making me want to delete soon... pisses me off cause some people had to wait hundreds of miles. I followed the stupid drive cycle bs and blah. If I have to change a NOX sensor for the scr, that waste of 500 bux cause of BMW's rapey pricing will definitely make me chip/delete.

Im on 500 miles and theyre not ready, im pretty much already decided that i want to go down the delete and tune path, just want to get over this my nox and scr went right at purchase and told them id return it if they didnt replace it, so new scr and old dpf lol

But you just went through the dpf issue. Clear the codes and see if they return. Of course any code, and any clearing of codes- resets readiness.
My issue is that I get an occasional 4d16 bmw code, pending 20ee, which is scr efficiency. But I freaking passed the tests 2 weeks ago only for that code to pop up and destroy it. None of this sensitive stuff on other clean diesels, just bmw. Had they not made it so pricey to fix, I'd love to keep the emissions stuff, but really the pricing and price changes just questions sanity lol.

The light randomly went away and figured it was a good chance to try and get emissions done, no faults showeed during the exam just that 3 systems werent ready yet ( cat,cat heater and egr), ct allows one to not be ready as long as it isnt the cat or 02 im going to figure out how to get my cat and cat heater ready then return to my current issue as my due date is so close by

It's really not cat and heater.
In rheingold readiness you can see better and they give you info on how to run the cycle, fwiw.
Cat-> NHMC cat (nox sensing I believe?)
Heated Cat-> Nox/SCR

O2 heater as you see means dpf. Yours passed?

Diesel specific next to Generic readiness:
http://www.e90post.com/forums/attach...1&d=1452205267

Yea my o2 heater passed lol i had to wash my car as the whole back was covered in soot it was begining to be tough to see out my back window and my exhaust was flat black, ill check out rheingolds set up to try and get my other two going. Do you recall which functions or troubleshoot to pull up the readiness monitors?

Service functions, under powertrain, dde. Smooth running control is also useful to check injector balance and a lot of other tests saree in there

https://xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/x5-e70-forum/104202-rheingold-read-emissions-monitor-readiness.htm

I may need one of you legends to walk me through the final setup of my ISTA install

The one I have runs natively in Windows. It's the commonly shared one from a certain Russian site, but the instructions on the final Comms setups are lacking in detail.

Check this torrent, just download the tools folder pdf for instructions CarTechnoloGY

700 miles in NHMC catalyst monitoring still not ready lol

See this file which some one posted here before. I don't buy it though because some of them cleared even though I was no where near the conditions, yet others take forever even when I tried. Anyway try that nmhc in this file

Sorry to revive this older topic, but experiencing similar issues with my 2010 X5.

Just got back from dealer and they claim the DPF filter needs to be replaced. Seems to me, the vehicle just can't do a regen to clear this out.

The specific questions I have are:

CEL is on and generic OBD II Reader throwing P14A7, which points to DPF. I assume just resetting this code will not force it to perform a regen?

Along with CEL, the DPF light comes on after about 5 minutes of driving with warning of reduced power. What exactly does this light tell me? (That regen cannot take place? regen will take place? system is at end of life and will not function anymore?, etc.). I assume this message is being triggered from the pressure sensors on the DPF mentioned in this thread.

Pressing "OK" makes DPF message go away until reappearing on next start.

OBD II reader also has a dashboard, reporting 140F engine temp during long hwy drive. Is this too low? It's possible that this isn't accurate. I specifically mentioned the thermostat and BMW said it wasn't an issue. Are they just reporting what their scan "DIDN"T" tell them, or is there something on their scan that can report the health of the thermostat?

With the "sacrificial hose" trick mentioned in this thread, must I use a specific tool (Rheingold, Carly, were mentioned) to specifically request a regen? Is resetting the error codes enough to trigger a regen using this method?

They suckered me out of a grand to fix glow plug module and a plug (I knew these were bad going in) to get down to only the emissions issues. So, I'd like to find a way to resolve this without dropping another 2K+ to replace the DPF.

Any other tricks to get regen to fire would be helpful.

Why not fine a "not a BMW dealer" who can remove and clean your DPF?


How many miles?

140F is 60C which is very low. Your thermostat is worn and that will make regens not happen. Too low temperatures also wear your glow plugs out as they stay on below 75 C

The dealers are idiots because they won't see a problem because their retarded software doesn't see it as a problem. The stupid car doesn't have a proper algorithm to see that a car that doesn't hit 70C+after a long period as an issue... you would think those idiots would watch for that but they only care about passing the short warranty period. Plus we don't have a freaking temperature gauge, so nobody knows until bigger issues crop up!
Garbage in, garbage out.

Fix the thermostat (waterpump too, not much more and it's on the same spot so labor) and then get it past 70 C/160F and if it doesn't regen, then look at the threads for the trick, which doesn't need Carly iirc.
You can see when a regen is happening by watching the exhaust gas temperature, or EGT in your obd scanner.

F to C. F-32, take that divide it by 1.8
C to F, Cx1.8, add 32 to that number

Carly can tell you how many successful regenerations have occurred, mileage at the last successful, average mileage interval, soot mass, differential pressure and much more. It costs money, though. I'm sure other devices can do so also. All of these parameters can let you know the state of the DPF and regeneration system. How many miles on your X5? I'd guess at a certain point, it just has to be replaced. 60k miles is way too early. 200k, it might just be time.

My thermostat started slowly failing. Quite quickly, glow plug 1 failed. At first, I could clear the CEL but then it became a hard fault. Later, cylinder 2 control circuit began to have issues. I replaced all of the glow plugs and the glow plug control module.

Thanks for the replies.

Vehicle has 105K on it. I suspected the thermostat all along. Of course the dealer wants to replace the DPF, because that's what the service tech tells them to do.

I brought it in to the dealer only because a previous recall visit flagged the NOx sensors as bad, and I recently found a communication that BMW NA extended the warranty for NOx sensors to 120K or 10 years. Of course this visit did not flag them as bad, and since their system didn't flag them, no warranty work can be done. I'm sure they'll fail at 120,001.

I cleared the codes and took it on a 2 hour hwy test drive last night and temp hovered in the 135F range (we have an 85mph speed limit on a local toll road here). Eventually, it threw a code for the the DPF filter and one for the thermostat not being to temp (P0128), plus the DPF filter message. That second code seems pretty telling that the thermostat is not right.

Will likely take it to my indie for the thremostat and water pump replace and go from there.

Update on my DPF issue...

It basically became undrivable. Every time I stepped on the gas, the engine malfunction light would come on due to the turbo not functioning correctly and probably the engine temperature. (Interestingly enough, it would downshift and RPMs would spike when this happened. Seems to me this is putting even more stress on the engine.)

So I took it into my indie and had them replace the thermostat and water pump. Again, I mentioned this to the dealer when I had it in and they said it wasn't an issue.

After repair, they didn't have time to take it for an extended drive, and said their software didn't have the ability to issue a regen request, but told me to drive it and bring it back if issues don't resolve. After I picked it up and drove it a few blocks, the Engine Malfunction light came on the first time I gave it some gas, throwing the Turbo Underboost error code (P0299), and then a couple minutes later the DPF filter message came on (P12A7). I drove for a couple more minutes and pulled over to check codes. Both the underboost and DPF codes logged in my OBD II software. I cleared the codes and proceeded to drive again. Since no lights came back on after about 15 minutes, I took it on the Highway for about 45 minutes and no lights came back on.

Monitoring it the entire time during the drive, the engine temp was now at a steady 190-200F (was 140F before repair) and exhaust temps stayed in the 700-800F range. It seemed to be running fairly well, but I couldn't tell if it was kicking into the regen cycle. After the test drive, I pulled over and let it sit for about 20 minutes and then drove again, with no CEL or DPF lights.

Knock on anything wooden, I have had about a half dozen starts since the test drive and no check engine lights. It seems to be giving me a little more power when stepping on the gas. I am assuming that either a regen ran, even though I couldn't tell, or the exhaust was now hot enough to start purging the DPF. It probably needs to run another regen cycle or two to get back to normal, so I'm keeping my fingers crossed.

So to all that suggested the Thermostat replacement, kudos! The dealer shrugged it off and just wanted to replace the DPF filter, which would have probably had me back in for another one in less that 6 months. Again, only took it to dealer to get potential warranty work done on the NOx sensors they suggested several months earlier, only to tell me it was no longer an issue.