35D Code Nightmare!!
 

Hey everybody,
I just signed up for Xoutpost, so if I'm in the wrong forum please forgive me. I'm learning!
I just bought a 2009 X5 35D. Beautiful SAV, I love it. The person I bought it from is a friend. He told me the check engine light was on but had been on a long time and didn't effect the way it drove. It didn't, at least not for the first two weeks.
It's running really rough. I have all of these codes and I have no idea where to start.

P053B P2062 P0641 P0098 P1880 P1118 B0011 P0059

I bought it because I need a vehicle for a lot of kids, and we have a bit of a road trip coming up in the weeks. I need the car to work desperately, not sure what to do.

Consequently, I took it to the local dealer. They told me the only way they would continue to diagnose it would be straight time. For $487, they told me the 10 amp fuse in the number 4 circuit blew.

I think I really have two issues. One is an issue with the active tank or scr system. The other is what's making it run like it's dragging a couple of cylinders!

If anyone can even start me on the right direction I would even be happy to pay for the advice, I'm in that bad of a spot right now.
Thanks a lot guys

Clear the codes and see which one comes back first. The dealer probably cleared them so just scan and report back what you have.

Hey, thanks so much for the quick reply!
I cleared them this morning to check that exactly and they all came back at the same time.

Just a quick update. The 10 amp fuse that's blown is under the hood on the engine management fuse block. If I had a wiring diagram I could tell you what that ten amp fuse powered, unfortunately I have no idea.

This is going to be a 'same issue posted here and bimmerfest'???

I started there...ill finish there

I need help from anyone that is generous enough to offer it. I have a few kids depending on me to get this fixed. I'm not too proud to ask for help wherever I can.

Get Rheingold ISTA+D first of all.
it looks like the codes you have are generic.

I wish I had access to Rheingold, but I don't.
There must be a wiring diagram for that 10 amp fuse in the engine management fuse block? I can start troubleshooting from there?

Do you have a bluetooth obd cable, or if usb, do you have an otg cable that works with your android phone? If so, pm me.

Otherwise, if you are using a k+dcan usb cable you need to get Rheingold which again pm me and i will send you the torrent file to download it, if you know how to use torrents. The fuse, someone with Rheingold can check for you

Thanks Rob, I'll order a obd Bluetooth tonight! I REALLY appreciate the help. Hopefully karma will find you for being cool.

Do you know what Rheingold is, before you declare that 'you don't have access to it"?

Did you replace the 10A fuse? You open the fuse block, FIND THE BLOWN FUSE, replace it.

There is an online manual, star here: https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e70-x5-3.0d-sav/

Again, did you replace the fuse or not? What happened when you replaced it?

F04 is the 10A fuse

That's perfect Ingenieur, thanks! I'm working on getting Carly or Rhienhgold, but in the interim I'd like to keep going if possible with some diagnostics.
If I go through through the items on that circuit, replace the fuse and start unplugging the items one by one to see if the fuse doesn't blow, am I going to get myself in trouble? I don't believe it's the scr that's the running issue. I know the person I bought it from told me the scr want working properly. It drove great when I bought it, now it has a really rough idle and went into limp mode once.
I think the transfer pump might be the culprit? I checked the service history on the vehicle and the active tank was replaced in December of 2015. It shouldn't be an issue after just a year and a half? At least, I hope not!
Is the transfer pump from the passive tank to the active tank under the passengers side floor in front of the air suspension compressor?

See if it holds, and I think you need to reset the codes with rheingold/ista or carly. A generic obd scanner can't always clear the codes.

Then you can see what codes come back. Idle issues and limp mode are hard to know without seeing the codes.

Sorry, haven't had my usual amount of coffee yet, so I might not be following. I feel like you're jumping to the conclusion that if the fuse blew, it's going to blow again and you're inspecting items down the line. Start with just replacing the fuse. I haven't seen if you've done that yet or not.

Lol

I've been saying/asking that for two days in two forums.....

has anybody said to replace the 10 amp fuse yet?:D

btw without Rheingold you are just like mice looking for cheese without a nose.

I think he should start by replacing the 10 amp fuse if he hasn't done so yet :eeps:

How many miles do you have? If its under 120k miles take it to dealer and have them fix the SRC active tank. That will take a bit so they will give you a rental, go to your trip with the rental if possible. Time it out that way if you are covered for the active tank repair.

Not so simple....

Hey everybody, I talked to BMW Canada and they said they "would consider helping" if it was there active tank but only if it was dealer diagnosed.
Took it to the dealer, they ran the bill up to $487 bucks and told me the number 4 engineer management fuse was blown. (Actually, the sock puppet behind the desk said it was the number 10 fuse. I said, "you mean it's a 10 amp fuse". He said, "No, it's the number 10 fuse. Is written right on it. I didn't kill him on the spot. Wanted to, didn't.)
Anyway, I'm waiting to get Carly but in the mean time I'm going to start unplugging things on the circuit, replacing the fuse, and power it up to see if she blows!
I already unplugged the transfer pump under the passengers side front floor. At least I think it was a transfer pump, right in front of the air suspension compressor...
Next, I was going to go after the active tank. I'll pull the inner fender liner out tomorrow, unplug the tank, replace the fuse, flash it up and see what happens.
I have a question though...
.1 when I unplug the tank, am I going to kill it? If the system runs out of urea, it shuts down and you're on a flat deck to the dealer.
.2 would you guys have an order of things you would unplug and check that might be more suspect than others? I would think anything like a pump would be more prone to failure than something like the egr that's on the same circuit?

I'm sorry but you lost us by jumping steps. Get the codes first.
A bad active tank or scr wouldn't make you run rough. A blown fuse either. It would just not start.
But what did bmw tell you after you gave them diagnostic money.
I don't hear besides then telling you a fuse? Breathe and think straight, get the codes they saw on paper.
Without codes we can't help you and you are just making it harder for diagnosis.. One step at a time

I know these new electronics are hard to troubleshoot at times, it's overwhelming to me too sometimes but you can't get far by shooting in the dark.

They didn't/wouldn't provide the codes. And, the mystery is that the number four circuit runs the SCR system. Almost everything, the active tank heater, level sensor, transfer pump, etc, is on that circuit and it still runs.

Ok! Finally got the proper codes today... Thank God for small miracles
004B6C heating crankcase ventilation, activation
0047FE reducing agent metering valve, activation
0046C4 reducing agent pressure line heating, activation
00480F NOX sensor after catalytic converter
0046CF reducing agent change over valve, activation
004A6F glow control until
004BAB reducing agent active tank fill level sensor
004BCB reducing agent passive tank fill level sensor
0046E4 reducing agent active tank heating activation
0047E9 reducing agent delivery pump
004D42 reducing agent repumping unit
004AB4 DDE control unit internal injector bank 5 voltage control
004F6F high irregular rotation

I hope you guys can work with this!!!
Thanks again

Most of the codes "reducing" look related to the fault of blown fuse. Are you blowing fuses when you replace it? First try that before you start unplugging things.

Injector code and irregular rotation could be a bad injector, there's been a problem with the x5 having leaky plastic at the passenger side, which drips onto the engine cover and corrodes the injector(s) 5 and/or 6. I had to replace both and yes the car stumbled and stalled at times because of this. IMO remove the engine cover and the foam and don't put them back. I can't find the thread right now on the plastic engine cover repair, but I will post it later if I find it.

Hi Rob! I did test the transfer pump on the passengers side, changed the fuse, power up, and it blew. The next thing I was going after was the active tank. Seems to be all over the road what the warranty or"good will program" is. Unfortunately, I don't live in California which seems to be 120,000 miles/ten year.
I was wondering, is there another pump in or near the passive tank under the driver's seat floor? I thought I should start with the passengers side transfer pump and then the active tank?

Also, with a dead scr, shouldn't this thing be a pylon right now?!?

active tank is nationwide

Yeah, it is in the US! Your lucky!! Canada? Not so much...
To add insult to injury, this one was replaced in Dec of 2015 at another dealer. They won't honor the two year part warranty because my friends owned it at the time.

Ah, you were the one that bought up "California".

Did not realize the two year warranty is limited to the owner at that time....



My actual understanding is that parts previously replaced under a warranty DO NOT get a 'fresh' two year warranty- they only have the remainder of the original warranty that had been utilized for the first replacement

You're right. You don't get a "fresh" two year warranty. When I spoke to BMW Canada, they must have taken mercy on me. They're going to send it to a case manager to review.
Just a heads up, apparently the active tanks design has been changed in the last couple of years from the original design. I believe the components are redesigned with something similar to what Xemodex rebuilds them like. A little more longevity, a little less pain in the ass.
I'll let you guys know what happens where I hear from BMWCA.

You have multiple issues here
Your glow control unit is probably dead due to the plugs constantly being heated, and most likely have a faulty thermostat. Its a common failure
You also most likely have a leak in your bulk head partition resulting in water shorting out your injector number 5. This will definitely cause running rough, and not turbo boost
You need a new active tank.

Here's the thread about the water leak and what to do. The scr is difficult, hopefully BMW helps you there.

Injector, you may need to replace it. I used a multimeter to diagnose which ones were shorted- they should be at least 500k Ohm to ground.
Here's the thread about injectors: https://xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/...gine-dies.html

Here's the thread on the plastic partitions breaking and shows the issue with the foam soaking up water etc.

Error code 4B99 and 483D - Bimmerfest - BMW Forums

At this rate Rob, I think I might burn it. If these things are that brittle, I'll cut my losses.
I really appreciate all your efforts, I do. But for a vehicle with 110 miles on it to be that bad, it's probably only going to get worse.
If nothing else, it might save someone else from making the same mistake.

PRECISELY the issue with driving around with a CEL on for weeks, months, years...issues crop up, and since the light was already on they just compound. The prior owner (aka "Friend") basically ran the car into the ground then sold it to you with ...well...kinda lies.


So "same mistake" is buying a used car with serious issues and a criminal lack of care?


Hey, I know- YOU should find a friend of YOURS, see if they will buy it from you!

I know it makes it easier to blame the car- say it is brittle, blame BMW, blame anyone else other than where the fault actually lies.

There is almost 100 service bulletins on these. The can be stopped by a "water bulkhead" sheet of plastic, the active tanks have been faulty for years and only just redesigned, the latest one only making it a year and a few months.
Yes, they sold it to me knowing it needed the active tank replaced. I know it wasn't neglected or abuse.
I don't dislike BMW, we have a 3 series and have had several before.
But... the X5 35d is a pretty delicate vehicle. I need something I can count on, and it seems like this vehicle has an engine code for"raining" or "dirt roads".

1. You have no idea WHAT they knew about 'what it needed'.

2. As Blue points out, a simple review of the codes establishes much more than "it needs an active tank'

3. As we look at these codes, it is clear that these are somewhat common faults and- HAD THESE BEEN ADDRESSED WHEN THE OCCURRED- would be straightforward. Instead the prior owner ignored these and drove the car with known malfunctions. Water leak onto injector, thermostat fault, SCR faults, possiblie NOX faults. (I would not be at all surprised to find out the owner had a $4k-6k estimate from a BMW dealership....). But, THIS IS ABUSE. Not fixing a car and driving it is abuse- it results in further damage.

4. You blithely proceeded to buy a car with known issues. The CEL was on, you possibly took their word for what was wrong, you didn't do your own inspection. Don't rationalize this poor decision with "I'm not not one of these rich AH's that own BMWs, so I have to buy second tier cars." Beating up on BMW and the X5D now, at this point, is just you seeking to rationalize your role in your current situation. All the data you are seeing about x5D 'fragility' issues was avaiable the day before you said 'yes'.


So, if you want help on fixing your car, this is the place. You will get great advice.

GL

Thanks GL, the help is appreciated. I just can't help thinking these 35d's are EXTREMELY temperamental. The active tank was bad when I bought it. The glow plug and injector issue started a week after I bought it. I can't fault the person I bought it from for that.

the emissions components are the Achilles heels of these cars. the engine is probably indestructible and the transmission is tried and tested across many platforms.

if you do decide to fix it i can sell you my recently dealer replaced active urea tank since i have no use for it.

I bought mine with only a code for glow plug #1 already known replaced and knowing that the glow plug module needed to go. I also surmised from reading here that I needed to replace the thermostat and water pump in short order.

By the time I replaced the glow plug module a couple of weeks later glow plug #6 had bit the dust.

Then I needed a new harmonic pulley, and just recently the fuel filter heater exploded and left fuel all over during a road trip.

Now I have a CEL for DPF ash loading and I CANT WAIT to do the emissions delete and open the taps on this thing.

I'm still happy with the car. I still plan to keep it until it just can't possibly be justified anymore.


You bought a vehicle with issues both known and unknown. You need to adjust your perspective.

I find it hilarious that OP buys a vehicle with known problems and clearly neglected, goes to dealer to get rapped for a diagnostic charge, then complains that the 35d is "delicate"!

I just ran my 35d for 200+ miles towing a 62 International Scout on a full size trailer cruising at 70-75 in 100+ degree weather without skipping a beat. I'd say it's hardly delicate.

Mechanically the car is strong, small things like harmonic balancer, thermostat go bad.. no biggie. Though a big thumbs down to the sunroof drains, a freaking factory defect kinked line. Quality assurance testing sucks these days.

The electronic issues are seriously stupid, especially when even the dealer can't figure them out. Tolerances in the software are ridiculous.
I had been waiting for readiness to pass. Literally 5 minutes AFTER SCR PASSED I got a code for SCR efficiency. Really moronic.

So yeah, tough german machine, with a stupid brain :)

I think you're missing the point Socale.
The def tank was replaced less than 16 months before it died again.
Brakes last longer than that.

Again, you bought a car with a massive number of ongoing issues.... I know you claim it was 'only the tank' when you purchased, and all the other cropped up latter, right?

Do you know that one can reset the CEL, and all codes will not re-appear immediately? They take some time. Many scumbag sellers will do this.



If this was simply 'tanked died again, 16 months on- no other issues nor codes' then you would have a point. The moron who sold it to you could have gotten it fixed under the warranty, no? Even money that he had an idea of how bad it really was....

Your 'friend' screwed you. Dont get annoyed with BMW, dont get annoyed with members here. Dont tell us how many SIBs bmw has published, in order to redirect your ire from your friend (or yourself) for buying a mess.

Bud, I'm not annoyed with any of the guys here. I respect how much everyone knows about their cars.
I am annoyed with BMW. I made it pretty clear to BMW to not waste my time and money to get a diagnostic telling me something I already knew if they weren't prepared to offer any assistance on a part less than two years old.
I think that's a fair thing to ask.
As far as the condition of the car goes, I knew what I was buying.
You can clear the codes, but the ECU stores them even when they are cleared with the milage of the occurrence. The fact that it had even more issues within a week of buying it isn't the fault of the person I bought it from, just shit luck.