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Battery Replacement
Hello everyone,
I was wondering if anyone can assist me. I'm looking for a reputable shop that can help replace/register a battery for my e70 in the tristate, preferably in nyc. Thanks in advance -Jon |
http://www.bimmershops.com is a good start.
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I predict you will pay the same as a dealer.
In the NYC area..... |
If the shop has no idea about registering the battery.....takes 5 minutes with the appropriate software.
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You can replace the battery yourself then purchase Carly for about what you'd pay most shops to register it. Then you have a useful tool for your car going forward.
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I had Walmart replace my battery(I watched them), then I had the guy who did my coding register it. Zero problems the last two years with it.
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A family friend's 2008 X5 3.0si needs a new battery. They got a new battery from a local AutoZone store and I am helping with the replacement. Tomaz' youtube clip is helpful. I have been reading on this Forum some posts saying if the battery is not "registered" it could cause damage to components. I am wondering if this battery "register" is for DIY and, if so, how it is done.
Please advise. Thank you. |
It has to be done with a computer or a specific app. Both require a physical connection to the car. Easiest is Carly (iTunes store/google play) and their OBD Bluetooth connector. You will need to also know some battery information (take a picture of the top of the battery label) when you go to register it. Carly has a free version, but you won't be able to register without buying the pro version along with the battery registration module.
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Failing to register will NOT 'damage components'
It may result in shortened battery life and should be done. Can be done later, like a week. Not urgent. Carly is the easiest app |
Thank you 740is and ard for sharing your insights. I will look into this Carly app and associated devices.
I was scanning the Forum several days ago for replacing battery and recall one post saying he did not know to register his replacement battery and sometime later the alternator had to be replaced. I wanted to know if there are potential harms "by design" for not doing battery placement properly such as registering it (with on-vehicle computer). |
For all we know his alternator could have been failing intermittently, killing the battery... Then the new battery which could take more current put the nail in the coffin...
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Oddly enough I had to replace my alternator a few weeks after my battery too, but I did register the battery correctly. Probably just a time issue as I know my registration didn't cause any issue for my alternator. It was probably dying and the battery was original to the X5. So the 9-year-old battery is probably what killed my alternator.
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I *have* heard that you can shorten the battery life if you don't. But that's it. Just get it registered within a week and you should be good. |
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In regards to the IBS and registering or not registering a new battery (when it's been changed)...see the last paragraph in the info below...it doesn't say "damage" will occur...but it does say that "power management will not function properly"...
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Thank you all for the advice. I have (physically) placed the battery with the one that the owner got from local AutoZone store - the store clerk would normally replace batteries on other vehicle models at the store but not for BMW's.
Attached are photos of the new battery and the original BMW unit. The owner said that they never replaced the battery after purchasing the X5 new. There is no time stamp on the battery to indicate when the battery is produced - I guess the dealer shop can check it out with the bar code on the battery. (I went though the attachment process for 4 photos in JPG format and each file is smaller than 900KB, the photo attachments don't show up with this note. What did I miss?) I am impressed by BMW's engineering to the details - my experience with US and Toyota (all before 2006) cars are that a battery would last about 5 years at best, half time of this BMW battery. The IBS must doing something great! I still own a 1987 MB 420SEL. Although I drive it less than 1k miles each year for the 10 years, a replacement battery would last about 5 years. I am on purchasing the Carly app. Some Carly customers' feedback (November 2017) stating they could not do coding and others say they got error codes often - of cause we don't hear good experiences much online. My Andriod phone is an old Samsung Galaxy with 32GB storage and I also have an Apply iPad with 16GB. I intend to purchase a Pro version but the Carly link in this thread would lead lead me to a Carly Lite version for iOS (for my iPad). Your advice on choosing Andriod or iOS versions of Carly Pro are very much appreciated. |
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Looks like I am in trouble.
I replaced the battery and took off for a break, posted a note (above). Then I started the engine and got all the Yellow warning messages that were not there before the battery replacement: AWD and DSC malfunction warning; DTC warning, Check Engine warning, Break warning. What went wrong? Please advise. |
That's a lot of corrosion on your old battery near the terminal... how did the clamp look?
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The 2 clamps are clean for most parts, just some white deposits on the bottom sides. Looking on the top and inside, you would think the clamps are new.
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Someone with carly battery coding should be able to chime in if this is a change that carly easily facilitates. Ista+ asks for new battery details when registering. |
I was told that battery registration can be done sometime later, in a week. I am on next to order a Carly and its hook-up device.
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1. Did you change the TYPE or SIZE of battery? REGISTERING later is OK, changing other things no. Looking at the pictures it seems it is an AGM for AGM, so that's ok...and the 90Ah vs 95Ah is perfectly fine too. A 5% difference is in the noise. Internally they are probably identical, made by the same factory I'd bet.
2. Was the new battery fully charged? Did you drive/let it charge for 2-3 hours after install? Taking a battery that has been sitting for months on a shelf may be installing a borderline unit 3. I'd attach an AGM charger and charge it overnight |
1. The owner (a family friend) of the X5 took the vehicle to a local AutoZone store, asking to replace the battery (which the store would do for many other cars). The store clerk said that they could not install a new battery for BMW vehicles. So they brought the replacement battery (from AutoZone) home and asked me for help (since I replaced WP/thermostat and breaks on the vehicle before). I then asked for advice on this Forum about precautions of replacing the battery, and was told that battery registration can be done afterwards, within a week or so. So I went ahead and replaced the battery, and later got the surprises of Yellow warnings.
2. The new replacement battery has a 09/17 time stamp on it. I did not check the charge capacity of the battery as I don't have equipment to do that. I had no problem start the engine after battery replacement, just the Yellow warnings. What do Check Engine and Break warning lights have to do with Power Management issues affected due to a yet-to-register replacement battery? 3. I have a regular/standard battery charger by Sears Craftsman. Would this charger work with an AGM battery? |
When you disconnected the old battery it reset the computers. The dsc computer needs you to reinitialize it by this:
Start engine. Turn wheel all the way to right, Then turn wheel all the way to left. Acknowledge the errors in idrive etc, they should be gone by the next restart of engine. Just saying this because a year ago I changed from factory agm to a lead acid battery and that's what cleared the errors. It was a week later that I was able to recode to 90ah lead acid. The not coding is not what causes the errors! But what did do it was swapping the battery , disconnecting power makes modern bmw's go crazy. |
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Nothing. Likely some odd power glitch causing modules to throw errors-a low battery charge state when starting the car can do it. It is my opinion that the registration issue has nothing to do with these error... Quote:
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Just to share my experience here:
I bought the car in Oct. 2016. Soon I got dsc, 4x5, abs,... errors. Lots of drivability issues. It was annoying. Turned out it was the result of low voltage. Battery was barely 1.5 years old. But ... the battery was 80 Lead Acid and NOT CODED. Original battery (coded to the car) was 90 AGM. Changed the battery and issue was gone forever! If changing the battery type (agm to LA, or the opposite), coding and registration is ABSOLUTELY NECESSARY. Else enjoy chasing odd issues. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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Thank you for all the advice. Here is the label on the old BMW battery. I don't see any TYPE code on it. The new replacement is of AGM.
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My Sears Craftsman car battery charger is over 20 years old and I don't have its manual around. I would guess at it's time, AGM battery was not invented yet so I doubt the manual would say any thing about charging AGM batteries.
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On my old craftsman, auto mode is safe because it won't charge at a higher voltage stays below 14.8v. Manual mode is dangerous though.
Connect a volt meter and check it doesn't go above 14.8 volts. If so, disconnect the battery when it reaches that. |
Just by looking at the photo, it is a lead acid battery, not AGM, so coding and registration are necessary.
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No,
It is an AGM. Only registration is required. An LA Battery ‘s label does not cover and seal the cell’s openings. Only an AGM battery is totally Maintenance Free. Also looking up the part number in realOEM suggests and backs it up. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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