Originally Posted by golf4dj (Post 1118511)

Just experienced the symptoms of a failing water pump (fan on high almost immediately on start) confirmed with a short drive where the overheat warning came on.



Trying to decide whether to tackle on my own taking 7 to 10 hours or pay to have it done?



Does anyone have the going rate for a WP & T-stat replacement at their local Indy? I think parts alone will run roughly $500 if I get the parts through on-line sources.



Bummer - the water pump was already replaced about 4 years and 50K ago.



Thanks,

DJ



2008 3.0si (w/adaptive drive & 4 zone climate)

130K miles

Originally Posted by golf4dj (Post 1118516)

My vehicle has adaptive drive and 4 zone climate which requires part number 11517568595 for the water pump which appears to be a bit more expensive than the water pump for the non adaptive drive models.

I can source the part for about $120 less than FCP Euro in this case.

Originally Posted by AlphaBetaX5 (Post 1118519)

It might be a stupid question, how to determine adaptive drive or 4 zone climate equipment status?


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Originally Posted by AlphaBetaX5 (Post 1118522)

Thanks.

What website did you find fir cheaper wp Tstat?

Fcp had the least expensive when I checked.


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Originally Posted by AlphaBetaX5 (Post 1118519)

, how to determine adaptive drive

Originally Posted by ard (Post 1118527)

Is there a 'sport' button immediately behind your gear shift? If yes, then you have AD

Originally Posted by golf4dj (Post 1118524)

Several dealers sell parts on eBay. A dealer out of New Jersey was considerably lower through their eBay storefront.

I often start my parts search on eBay with good results.

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Originally Posted by ard (Post 1118537)

Brings up a thought... observation?...musing?


Are there REALLY loads of different no-name water pumps?


Or is it that there are 4 or 5 brands:

1. OE (BMW branded but made by the OEM)
2. OEM
3. A well known BMW vendor that makes a pump but isnt the OEM for this part (Dont know who this is, pierburg?)
4. One cheap no-name (asian?) brand that is sold widely under various names...ebay... etc

The #4 thing makes it seem like there are MANY versions...

but I just wonder if there is enough of a market for this part for multiple companies to make custom molds, custom tools, etc,etc.

Dunno, just wondering

Originally Posted by golf4dj (Post 1118606)

Well got a quote from an independent today. Roughly $1200 out the door.

The dilemma, try and tackle on my own and save roughly $700 or just bite the bullet and pay to get it done.

While there is not a complete guide there are a couple threads that give decent enough how to information that I think I can do it.

Several previous repairs that I have done would include some of the disassembly that I would need to do. For example I replaced the washer pumps by removing inner fenders, replaced starter motor just two weeks ago which required moving a bunch of stuff. I also replaced the radiator and expansion tank along with all belts and hoses. Not that it's relevant here, but I also replaced the oil filter housing gasket and the valve cover gasket among other repairs.

Man, been through a lot with this truck.

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Originally Posted by lt_texan (Post 876114)

Okay,

Step 1 - Raise the truck
Jack using the front centre jacking point
Support with jack stands at the two front tire changing jacking points.

Step 2 - Drain "lifetime" coolant.
Remove belly pan. Or whatever the BMW vernacular for it is ;)
Remove engine brace plate. Disposable aluminum bolts? No blue paint, but they sure look the part.
Remove reservoir cap.
Unscrew blue plug bottom left of radiator, let dangle.
Catch a bunch of coolant in a strategically placed pan.
Remove the inlet water hose on the water pump (it's under the a/c compressor pointing to the rear). I got the clamp off with a 1/4 drive 6mm ratchet.
Try to catch some coolant with your (now safely emptied) pan.
Clean up the unbelievable mess with lots of cheap kitty litter.

Step 3 - remove electric fan assembly
Remove the two bolts on each side of the brace.
Unsnap the hood release cable from the 3(?) clamps on the brace.
Work the left side of the brace up and move to the left so that the right side clears the a/c hoses, then lift the right side and slide out to the right.
Unplug the electrical connector on the right side of the shroud.
Press in the lock on one side (you can see how the one by the plug works as it is not hidden by the rad hose like the right hand side one).
Lift each side enough to clear it out of the lock.
The "ear" on the left of the shroud folds back and into the shroud so it clears the radiator hose.
Lift/work the fan assembly out.

Step 4 - remove thermostat assembly
(This is where my BMW service manual has no documentation, so it might be hit or miss until I get there.)
Loosen the t-stat end of the water pump inlet hose and remove (6mm wrench accessed from the rear after to other unsuccessful tries from the bottom front and attacking from above.)
Release holds from the radiator to t-stat housing and remove - a little working back and forth and then they slide off.
Unplug the t-stat housing power connection and move out of the way.

That's where I am now. Really wanted the water pump and t-stat housing to be on the garage floor today, but then I messed around yesterday and most of today trying to get the service manual to spit out the procedure.

Next step, I'll remove the other hoses on the t-stat housing and then it looks like two smaller screws hold the t-stat housing to the water pump. Hopefully this will get the t-stat out of the way so I can access the upper water pump bolt.

Oh well.

Originally Posted by golf4dj (Post 1118663)

There is also a pretty decent YouTube video which shows the procedures along with the fact that the pump and t stat can be removed through the passenger wheel well.

I will try and link that video as it seems quite useful.

But the bullet and ordered parts last night.

I will post my experience.

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Originally Posted by lt2mc (Post 1118717)

Just replaced mine yesterday, 3.0 adaptive drive (short plastic impeller housing). Not a bad job~4hrs, just messy without a rad drain plug. Pulled the fan assembly, belly pan, plastic pan, R wheel, and wheel well. Advice, replace the tstat, pump to block, pump to stat, and lower rad hoses while in the neighborhood. Also buy a pump with a good warranty, just in case. The labor is not so bad, 6 bills for a pump is though. Small detail, clock all your clamps so you can access them later from easier directions. :)

Originally Posted by golf4dj (Post 1119813)

For those that have recently replaced the pump - there is a short hose that comes off the water pump and connects to a rigid pipe that leads to the engine block. Could you remove the pump by simply disconnecting the short hose without having to remove the rigid pipe?



One of the how to videos that I found online removed the rigid pipe while another video did not seem to remove it but did not specifically talk about the short hose and rigid pipe.

Originally Posted by golf4dj (Post 1119855)

OK, finished up today.



Not too bad of a job - took me about 7 hours total even though it did not feel like it took that long as I did it over 3 days. Not overly difficult just a lot of stuff in the way and limited space to work. I have the adaptive drive so there is even less room.



Parts and supplies cost me just below $500 which based on the estimate I received from a local independent ($1200) saved me about $700.



I ended up removing the fan but didn't need too as I pulled everything out through the wheel well and got to everything from underneath.



This job would be so much easier and at least 2 hours less if I had a lift as much of my time was spent getting down on the floor and then back up.



All in all pretty easy - everything came off and went back on without too much trouble.



I followed the referenced You Tube video which was extemely useful https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Re6oO43ldUs.

Originally Posted by AlphaBetaX5 (Post 1119863)

Nice job!




Did you drain the coolant beforehand?

Did you bleed the system?
You can do that manually. Takes 12 minutes of your battery when ignition is ON.



Also what are the special tools that are a “must” for the job?



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Originally Posted by golf4dj (Post 1119864)

I did not drain the coolant before hand. My first evening was spent mostly prepping for the job by getting the truck as high off the ground as possible, removing plastic and metal splash guards under the vehicle, removing the right wheel and a section of the wheel liner and removing the fan (which I didn't need to do). At this time I un-fastened a couple hoses to let the coolant drain.



The must have tools for the job was the E-12 and E-8 torx sockets, 10 inch long pick tools (to unclip the hose fasteners). I would also recommend an E-12 wrench to get at one of the water pump bolts that I struggled to get the socket on. Of course you will also need some other fairly standard tools like screwdrivers and metric sockets.



Other than that, pretty straightforward. I would watch the You Tube video I linked a couple of times. It shows every step in a pretty straight forward manner and I followed it pretty much all the way.