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devildogae 12-07-2017 01:52 AM

X5 4.8i rear wheel bea ring replacement info
 
Need help from someone who had replaced their own rear wheel bearings. TIS states special tools. The hub is pressed into the bearing. They come seperate. The bearing carrier just bolts on.

I 2as thinking I could remove the bearing and hub at once with a puller. Then seperate the hub and use with the new bearing. Press it in and install as 1 peice. Only problem I can see is if the splines are very tight fit, how can I draw the axle spines through the hub?
l splines through the hub

Lambeau 12-07-2017 07:25 AM

I also want to do this as preventive maintenance with 182K miles on my 2011. I already have the bearings and am putting it off until I make more realizations as to what's involved.

Skyline 12-07-2017 10:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by devildogae (Post 1123018)
Only problem I can see is if the splines are very tight fit, how can I draw the axle spines through the hub?
l splines through the hub

I have not done this on the X5, only on other cars, so can not confirm this will work, but I would think a "Bolt Grip Puller Set" would do the trick.

Like this:

https://store.snapon.com/Bolt-Grip-P...--P635337.aspx

The thing that looks like a giant bird foot gets mounted with the wheel bolts to the hub. Then you thread the rod/bolt through the center to push out the axle. The set comes with several style tips to match what you want to push on; pointed and flat.

Although Snap-on makes by far the best quality version of these, you could get one used on eBay, or get an OTC set quite a bit cheaper.

devildogae 12-07-2017 09:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Skyline (Post 1123032)
I have not done this on the X5, only on other cars, so can not confirm this will work, but I would think a "Bolt Grip Puller Set" would do the trick.

Like this:

https://store.snapon.com/Bolt-Grip-P...--P635337.aspx

The thing that looks like a giant bird foot gets mounted with the wheel bolts to the hub. Then you thread the rod/bolt through the center to push out the axle. The set comes with several style tips to match what you want to push on; pointed and flat.

Although Snap-on makes by far the best quality version of these, you could get one used on eBay, or get an OTC set quite a bit cheaper.

Yes indeed, but how do you get the bearing/hub back on the splines?

Lambeau 12-07-2017 09:44 PM

I've done the front bearings and they just tapped on easily. When the main center nut is tightened, it draws it on fully. Not sure if the rear bearings would be the same concept.

xbimma 12-07-2017 11:56 PM

2 Attachment(s)
From 00-06 X5 Bentley manual. Hope it helps Attachment 72814Attachment 72815



Garage:
E53 4.4i M62 born 2003-03-04 (SOLD)
E53 4.8iS N62s born 2006-03-16
E90 325i N52 born 2006-03-28
F30 328i N20 born 2012-09-06

Skyline 12-08-2017 11:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by xbimma (Post 1123090)
From 00-06 X5 Bentley manual. Hope it helps Attachment 72814Attachment 72815



Garage:
E53 4.4i M62 born 2003-03-04 (SOLD)
E53 4.8iS N62s born 2006-03-16
E90 325i N52 born 2006-03-28
F30 328i N20 born 2012-09-06

I gather the e53 and e70 are pretty similar in this respect. It looks like the bolt/grip puller set I suggested above will be a suitable replacement for the factory tool. But it looks like the factory tool is used first as a mount for a slide hammer, before the pressure screw is inserted. A 'non-special factory tool" alternative to this would be a standard slide hammer set like this:

https://www.amazon.com/OTC-4579-9-Wa...C+Slide+Hammer

If you notice, these slide hammer sets come with attachments designed specifically for connecting to hubs.

Skyline 12-08-2017 01:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by devildogae (Post 1123082)
Yes indeed, but how do you get the bearing/hub back on the splines?

Just push it on, and once you can start the threads of the center bolt, you should be able to snug it down.

Both the big center nut, AND the bolts on the back of the carrier bearing are one time use and are supposed to be replaced.

FYI, the torque for the bolts on the back is 100nm. The center nut is 420nm (!!!) Also with the center nut, due to the massive torque you are supposed to put a little oil under the collar to lubricate it.

Speaking of special tools, how do you plan on torqueing the center nut? You're going to need a 3/4" torque wrench to do it right. There's also a workaround where you max out a 1/2" torque wrench at 250ft lbs, then follow up with an additional angle with a beaker bar, (90deg? I'm not sure on that rotation amount). FYI 420Nm = 309 Ft Lbs.....I've never seen a 1/2" torque wrench that goes up that high.

devildogae 12-08-2017 04:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Skyline (Post 1123128)
Just push it on, and once you can start the threads of the center bolt, you should be able to snug it down.

Both the big center nut, AND the bolts on the back of the carrier bearing are one time use and are supposed to be replaced.

FYI, the torque for the bolts on the back is 100nm. The center nut is 420nm (!!!) Also with the center nut, due to the massive torque you are supposed to put a little oil under the collar to lubricate it.

Speaking of special tools, how do you plan on torqueing the center nut? You're going to need a 3/4" torque wrench to do it right. There's also a workaround where you max out a 1/2" torque wrench at 250ft lbs, then follow up with an additional angle with a beaker bar, (90deg? I'm not sure on that rotation amount). FYI 420Nm = 309 Ft Lbs.....I've never seen a 1/2" torque wrench that goes up that high.

Thanks for sharing. My plan is to get the nut on as tight as I can, then lock it down. Or possibly take it to a tire shop and have them torque it down completely.

Skyline 12-08-2017 06:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by devildogae (Post 1123148)
Thanks for sharing. My plan is to get the nut on as tight as I can, then lock it down. Or possibly take it to a tire shop and have them torque it down completely.

What makes you think a typical tire shop is going to have a 3/4" torque wrench? And if it does, they probably use the thing as a breaker bar, and ruined any chance of accuracy. Most tire shops just use their air guns for everything. Not a good plan.

There are auto parts stores that rent tools, but a 3/4" torque wrench is a not a common tool unless you work on trucks.

The problem with your plan, is that if you over-torque or under torque the wheel bearing (and drive on it), you're going to ruin it. Or it will be fine, and fail again in a few months. And once it's overtorqued, the damage is done. Get your hands on a proper torque wrench BEFORE you do the job. There are decent used torque wrenches on eBay, (search for Snap-on 3/4" Torque wrench) but they start at several hundred dollars; about 30-40% of new cost. This is a HUGE torque wrench, and they don't come cheap. Here's an example of a new one:

https://store.snapon.com/US-Torque-I...e-P891640.aspx


While Snap-on is certainly top shelf, at 3/4" drive there are not the vast options available at 1/2" drive. And if you buy used, you're going to need to send it back to Snap-on or CDI to get it calibrated before you use it. You can also hand it to a Snap-on mobile dealer. Expect to pay another $100 or so for this service including return shipping. But you'll still save several hundred or more vs. buying new. CDI makes most of Snap-on's torque wrenches, and the CDI labeled products run a bit less money than the Snap-on, but still you're talking $550 or so for a new one.


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