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Engine Bay ID
This morning when I started the engine, I heard a wicked rattle coming from the engine bay and when I investigated it seems this is the culprit (yellow) then while I was looking around I saw there is a nipple that maybe should have a hose or pipe on it?(red) could anyone elaborate and ID these parts for me. Thank you
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...f323c535e5.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...b1d6f56f22.jpg Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
Looks like you have a 4.8i? The first picture is the A/C compressor. The second one is the vacuum pump. Nipple is ok to be capped depending on your year/model.
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Ok thank you. Yes it’s the 4.8. So it’s ok for the vacuum pump to have that nipple free and open? I guess I’m gonna start looking for an ac compressor.... Thank you Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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The cars braking is good. There is a slight vibration through the pedal but I believe it could be an alignment issue...? I’ll look for a cap for that nipple. Any recommendations? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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Joy Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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Before you condemn the compressor, have someone who really knows what they're doing evacuate and recharge the A/C system. If it was filled without the proper amount of oil, that can cause problems. For me, I'd prefer a shop that has one of the newer Snap-on A/C service machines; they do everything automatically, and remove the very significant chance for human error. These cars need a very precise amount of Freon. Technically they can be charged with a set of compound gauges, a scale for the tank, and a canister for the oil, but you really need to know what you're doing to get that right. Any idiot can do it right with one of the newer machines. There are other brands of automatic A/C machines out there as well, but these are probably the best. (Cost close to $7k and go up to almost double that for the machines that handle hybrids).
Also, that A/C belt is totally shot, so replace that, and the idler pulley on that belt while you're at it. That pulley could also be your culprit for a rattling sound. Replacing the A/C Belt is not too hard, but adjustment for the belt tension is a royal PITA. Some folks have used a Dremel to notch the tail end of the adjustment bolt so it can be turned from above like a screw, but otherwise, you'll need the full spectrum of 1/4 socket tools to get to the adjuster from below. There's a crossmember right in the way, so a long extension with a wobble end, coupled to a 3" extension, coupled to the bit driver makes it work, with a few curses thrown in. Once the tools are in the general area, you can no longer see the bolt, so it's all by feel. Snap on A/C machine looks like this. This is a brand new model, but their fully automatic machines have been around for about 8 years or so.: |
Wow, thanks for that wrote up! I’ll have a look at the compressor and have a belt and pulley on order. Can’t wait to play with the tensioner...
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The noise from the A/C compressor is most likely the pulley bearings. The pulley can be replaced (I did it on mine) and not have to replace the compressor. If your lucky you can replace the actual bearing and use that pulley or just replace the pulley as a single unit.
Read through my post here: https://xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/...pair-help.html You can see the options that you can use. |
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Thank you sir. My AC works really well! Both driver, passenger and back. I had a look and the piece that’s pictured in yellow was the piece that was vibrating and looked like the culprit. I’m def going to check the pulley because I’ll be in there so I might as well. Thank you Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
UPDATE: I removed all the plastic, air hoses, air boxes, radiator support, radiator and got to have a good look at the AC compressor... it's F*#$%! Capitol F...
I dont know how to load a video here.. Has anyone removed one of these on the E70? Any help would be greatly appreciated. |
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https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...9c7238012c.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...5316e98465.jpg I think it’s definitely the pulley only. I think the compressor is ok still because up until this complete failure. It was blowing arctic. I’m struggling to get the center T30? (I forgot) bolt out because it spins freely. And the same goes for the three bolts because the pulley spins freely too... The bearing itself is completely gone. It must of blown up... I got a new compressor on the way. I’ll tackle this next week. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
That front part with the pulley is the electro magnetic clutch. It can be changed on most makes without breaking into the A/C system charge. Its R134a, not freon by the way. It appears a weld broke. When power energizes the magnet, it pulls the pulley into engagement which then turns the compressor internally. Good luck.
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Yup, my issue was exactly like yours and this clutch assembly worked perfectly! https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-A-C-Com...pe!95391!US!-1
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Thank you Cuda, interesting how it works compared to others.. I’ve got a whole compressor coming but if I can’t get mine off then I’ll consider the pulley setup like you did 740 and possibly this kit. Thanks guys, I’m going to try take it off this weekend. I’ll update as I get news. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
Just my $0.02, but I'd try removing the pulley and race first, instead of the compressor. That way if you're successful, you won't have to evacuate and recharge the system.
To keep the pulley from turning, I used a strap wrench on mine and it worked perfectly. Look forward to your results. |
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Yea I think that’s a good idea, try the pulley first. I got a puller so hopefully I’ll have space in there.. strap sounds like it’s the way to go! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
I’m struggling to get this center bolt out.... any tricks??
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Update:
Got the center bolt out, the pulley off but I’m left with the inner bearing sleeve. I can’t get a set of puller arms on it because of the close proximity... helphttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...9adb021a0f.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...1be635a7f6.jpg Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
The same exact thing I had. I used a Dremel with a small cut off wheel to cut a slot and then broke the race off.
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Could you please elaborate? Do you have any pictures? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
Sorry, no pictures. But got a 1 inch cut off wheel from Harbor Freight for my Dremel. Then cut the race across the grooves from front to back. I made the mistake of not cutting a little, check and repeat until the race is cut enough to wedge a large flathead and twist to open a little more. Oddly enough, mine then broke and fell off. But if it doesn't you can probably then grab it with a pair of channel locks and twist it off.
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Thank you! I’ll give it a go.
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