changed the map sensor on intake manifold, no change. codes still back on. time to go trade in this motha

That sucks man. I’d recommend checking your front crank seal. Just need to take off the fan, belt, and crank pulley to inspect. It’s not that bad.

My code is now gone. Belt got past the seal and into the oil pan. Ended up costing me $1500 to have a friends shop drop the differential and subframe to open up the oil pan. Shreds of belt we’re all in there. I was lucky nothing ended up in the timing chain. Also had him just change my water pump as preventative maintenance while everything was exposed there. At 57k, I’m sure I was on borrowed time.

Now I’ve encountered another issue as a cause of the belt. It appears to have wrapped around the pulley and severed the ground wire for the AC compressor and it’s beyond repair. Now it’s back at the shop for an AC compressor. Can’t go without AC in this Vegas heat, especially with 2 young kids. Hoping after this all is well. Other than them telling me the VCG has a very minor leak which I’ll take care of later. Nothing major at this point but better to just replace the whole valve cover on these things. Learned my lesson with my E90 in that regard.

Hey man, glad the code is gone on your car. So when the belt shredded, I took out the crank pulley and removed all the belt that was wrapped around. I did 3 oil flushes on the car, tiny belt pieces came out on the first drain and in the filter, on third drain, didn't see anything in filter and oil. I did a scope thru timing chain and didn't see any belt in the chain or on the crank shaft inside.

The crank seal looked ok when I saw it but maybe it's not fully sealing. Maybe it did rip.

I don't really feel like dropping the subframe so I'm gonna see if the cel doesn't come on then go trade it in. Just tired of having a daily driver that is a weekend project. Had way too many things give out under 100k.

Thanks man

Update on 28a0. I changed my crank seal. The original looked ok, but when it took it out after tons of pain staking tries then finally hiring a mobile mechanic to use brute Force, the inside seam seems hard and plasticy. So maybe it was almost on its way out at 85k.

Code has gone away now after new seal. Seems all go so far as to driving 20 miles. 0 codes. Thanks alot for your guidance. Hope this helps others

Race rpm, Have you had any issues since you change your crankcase seal???
Had the same issue, but I hope I caught it early enough...:thumbdown:nervous:

Hey, I drove the car for a few hundred miles then traded it in. No issies. I haven't used my tools in the garage since. Feels good to reclaim my weekends lol.

Hey Racermp, any chance you have logs from before the code showed up, logs while you had the code, then logs after you got it fixed?

I'm curious to compare our logs.

I've been fighting this code since July...

i don't have logs, but i don't think logs would show the issue. my oil pressue was the same before and after. the issue was the engine could not get enough vacuum pressure due to a torn front crank seal. you may have the same issue, or maybe a different vacuum issue.

Did smoke test and no leaks and changed valve cover and gasket.
Tried new map sensors for both locations.
And code 28A0 kept coming back.
Even with smoke test it did not have a leak but my mechanic said the flap was staying open on the Fuel Tank Vent Valve.
Changed the Fuel Tank Vent Valve and the code went away.

Any theory on how the Fuel Tank vent valve was causing 28A0, “intake pipe absolute pressure, plausibility: pressure too high”??