Hmmmm, I'd assumed everyone here has seen hundreds of photos of black E70s on 214's..

Its my wife's daily driver, and she is out with it. She may have some photos, see what I can dig up..

Dont worry about the pics ('13 sport/tech/456 seats? nice!), check into that running temp... ;)
Do make sure she is aware to get brand name diesel at certain stations, full tanks, pay by card, eh?

:stickpoke

Uh, please elaborate. Thought it was odd there was no Temp gauge to begin with, but most of them are so useless, you may as well just have a temp warning light, but now you have me concerned..

Certain Stations? Like which ones should we avoid?
Royal Farms/Wawa type places bad?

Full Tanks?, Pay by Card? - Now You have lost me..

Anything else that should be 'looked at" or "addressed", please do tell..

I'm not a diesel guy so I might screw this up, but I believe the concern with the running temp is that the t-stat can fail and it'll run cold. You won't really get any alarms, but warning signs could be bad gas mileage. And if left to continue I think you'll start have glow plug issues, probably other things as well. I haven't really read up on it since I'm a petrol guy (for now) but here's a thread: https://xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/...-diy-pics.html

You are at the earlier mileages of thermostat replacement. Nannie is right, the thermostat fails open, (without fault codes) and can mess with your warm up cycles and emissions efficiency. There is a secret menu in the cluster, but as your wifes car, probably easier to get a carly tool or foxwell, or even generic obd readers can easily give coolant temp. Spec is 87C, people start haivng problems when it is staying under 75C.
Not a big deal now,just figure out where you are at and watch it, especially going into winter.



As far as fuel goes: Bad fuel can create an 5 digit repair.

Diesel fuel is a lubricant, gasoline is a solvent with p[oor or no lubricity, water has poor or no lubricity. Your fuel system spikes to 30,000psi, any contaminants can quickly damage the high pressure pump and send metal shavings throughout the entire fuel system. Get fuel from high-turnover brand-name stations, purchase full tanks only, and somehow log where you are buying it (credit card a great fallback). I photo receipts and pumps. The station is generally liable for the repair of bad fuel and are insured as such. ***Misfueling*** is a situation where you are on the hook for the repair.
It has been suggested that most water in underground tanks is probably there from condensation, hence the high turnover requirement. Think near highway, brand name, low price.



Fuel system contamination is rare, but be aware. You are the first line of defense.

To check your temp via hidden menu:
Take sum of all digits in the last 7 of your VIN, this is your passcode.


Press and hold the button on the instrument cluster for approximately 5 or more seconds until it brings up the menu, Release the button.
Immediately press the same button about 18 times (no holding) until you get to menu 19 Lock screen.

When the cursor switches down (I dont think there is an actual cursor) to the lock passcode, start pressing the button again (no holding) until your passcode is entered.
The menu will seem to reset. Press the same button until you get to menu 7, this is for reading engine temp.


You will get used to these keystrokes pretty quickly, check it out and see if it works and where your temp hovers.

Accessing the temperature in the hidden menu's was very easy. I didn't go out on the highway, but took a little ride on some back roads.

Outside Air Temperature 80 degrees (F)
Overcast skies..

At Idle it seems to hover around 82..

Steady state 50 mph, flat ground - fluctuates between 85-86..
Saw as high as 88 on a slight incline..
Right back down to 85-86 when the road leveled out..

If I am reading the threads right, this is right were it should be? :dunno:

Thats perfect.

If interested get a code reader of sorts. Entry level flock to Carly app, or Foxwell NT510. Carly I find useful for monitoring overall health passively. I havent used the NT510.

These will allow you to read any active or pending codes, register batteries, request regenerations, etc. That stuff might seem advanced, but even if you don't work on your own car, it could have significant value to an aware owner.

I definitely need to invest in a reader of some sort. I did most of the work on our aging E53, and will try to do most of the work on the new E70 (hopefully won't need anything for a while - knock on wood)..

Just have to figure out what is best to invest in...
Seems online descriptions are pretty vague..
So any personal experience feedback is welcomed..

I've been using the Carly adapter with torque pro using DWR's 335 PID. You should be able to find a cheaper obd2 adaptor on Amazon