2012 X5 Transmission Service
 

Finally jumped in and serviced the transmission
2012 X5 35d ZF 6 speed. 89k miles.

I bought the service kit with pan-filter, bridge seal and mechatronic seals and Pentosin ATF1 oil from ID Parts.

I have to admit, seeing this guy do it convinced me I could also in my garage.

https://youtu.be/dCvmdo1bLLw

The interesting part was his video has transfer case/rear trans cross-brace that is out of the way.

On my rig, the cross-brace is right over the rear pan bolts with no way to get to them (1" clearance above and no angled torx could fit). Being that I didn't have a lift and was working under jack-stands, I didn't see how nor want to remove the cross-brace.

So I drilled access holes through the brace for a long torx-40 to get through.


https://i.postimg.cc/HjwqxTyQ/IMG-5379.jpg


https://i.postimg.cc/kDy7HQf3/IMG-5377.jpg


https://i.postimg.cc/18jTTtkZ/IMG-5378.jpg


https://i.postimg.cc/23nDZ4PL/IMG-5374.jpg


https://i.postimg.cc/vxtkSvsP/IMG-5375.jpg


Other than the access issue to the pan, the next was the mechatronic plug seal. It was a b!%ch to get out and the new one in. I could barely get my fingers up there. I used a loop of wire to pull the plug lock ring down because I couldn't reach it.

Filling the transmission under a running car was a new experience while waiting for the trans to come up to temperature and spill excess oil back out is the German way I guess to determine full (my 2013 VW JSW was the same way).

Overall, cheaper than dealer and very possible with some planning ahead for access issues.

I just used a mini right angle ratcheting Tory driver. $10 at any auto parts Store. Fancier one w bits at lowes, HD. Silly ones at snap on


https://www.google.com/aclk?sa=l&ai=...ww8ItwM&adurl=

(Google ‘ratcheting bit wrench’)

Great pics, kudos for DIYing it.

Nice work. Saves around $500 as a diy job over an Indy. And who knows how much for a dealer.

I used something like this in combination with the correct torx bit for those 4 screws. Did have to jack the transfer case up a bit for added access but it worked fine. Just have to remember to lower the jack before filling... Which is pretty obvious given where the fill hole is on this trans.

https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon...._AC_SY400_.jpg

What tool did you use to drill the holes in the cross-brace? I am running into the same issues of accessing the 3 bolts under the cross-brace. Thanks.

Im sorry, why are you drilling holes?!?

Please check Spokane2017's DIY - they drilled holes to gain easy access to the oil pan bolts that are hidden under the cross member.

Technically you are supposed to remove the cross member while supporting the transmission / transfer case with a jack. If you service the transfer case you need to remove it anyways to access the fill plug.

Not a good picture but something like this:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/4pemQpiZfL3PPQcx6

https://postimg.cc/94F9bYYh

Thanks for the direction. So I can just putt a jack under the transmission and take out the crossmember - right? Would appreciate where exactly to put the jack to support the transmission.

You can put a piece of 2x4 between the jack and the pan and jack it until it moves about 1/2-1 inch. Then you can remove the cross member after removing the underbody protection.
You will need a 2nd jack or a stand and support the transfer case also using a piece of 2x4 to remove and replace the pan. I just used a cheap scissor jack to support the transfer case while removing the pan.
I whish I took more pics.
There is a very long bolt goes through the transfer case and rubber mount, you will need to play with the jack to line up the holes. I did remove everything since I was servicing the transfer case also and the fill hole is simply inaccessible even with the "special tool" for low clearance plugs.
If anyone needs torque specs let me know.

I went through all this since I installed new pan, drain/filled the transfer case and since the underbody protection was off I sprayed it with fluid film (we live in a no-salt area but I still spray all of our vehicles every 3-4 years, it protects and lubricates the rubber and plastic besides the metal).

Both I and crystalworks posted how you simply use a torx bit and a 6mm (?) wrench and unscrew them from behind the cross member. It isnt hard.


https://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTAwMFgxM...1.JPG?set_id=2