Two weeks after the MAF failed I’ve got another CEL. Glow plug controller has failed. Another $300 in parts (and $350 labor of you can’t do it yourself). I’m on track to pass $2000 in repairs this year. But it’s still less than depreciation on a brand new X5.

GPU at getbmwparts.com is about $120. Takes about 1.5hrs for a shade tree mechanic to do the swap at a leisurely pace. Replacing GPU can be done w/o removing the intake manifold. You will need good gloves and a large bucket of soap afterwards. Check the operating temperature of the engine to assure the thermostat hasn’t failed as that is one cause of gpu failure.

Been there, done that.... :-)

Leisurely: that’s me to a T, otherwise it’s no fun. If I’m in a rush, I pay a great local Indy.

Thanks very much for the thoughtful advice. I am going to follow your prescription exactly. But I think I’ll go for the Beru gpu for $40 less.


Thermo: was bad at 85kmiles. New one maintains 87C, and I see 99 when towing up steep hills in the summer. X5 always seems to run better after a long two (better mileage and noticeably more peppy). My Indy mechanic says it’s the best

FWIW my X5 has failures so often I keep a code reader in the vehicle. Same thing for my e60 and the E39 before. Last reliable BMW I had was an e34, and that was less reliable than my e28 and ditto all the way back to my E3’s and 2002’s, which were incredibly reliable and cheap to maintain.

All my wife’s Merc’s over the last 35 years have been 5x better. At this rate even Porsche and Jaguars will be more reliable than BMW.

At the time the car was in Portugal in an underground garage and I had few tools at hand. To do the swap of the GPU I brought out some long 1/4" extensions and a set of magnetic sockets as well as a slim bar style flash light. There is a lot going on underneath the manifold and w/o a lamp impossible to see.

There is a good video on you-tube showing the GPU swap. The maker correctly stressed that you need a longish screwdriver or other tool to pry out the connectors first, then unscrew the two 6mm nuts. IIRC, the GPU comes out sliding it towards the back and then up.

Taking the manifold off obviously makes it much easier but introduces a risk of something tumbling into the intake ports. I finally did take the manifold off last summer (for the vac lines & actuators) and it was missing the rear of the small washers with the rubber piece attached (probably lost when dealer replaced 6 plugs and GPU under warranty/recall?). I was feeling quite uncertain, until I checked with a borescope, that it had not fallen in to the port.

Also beware, if you are somewhat OCD with your cars, once you take the IM off you get into a long process of "might as well while in there".... :}

The support from this community is a major reason I’m able to tolerate they constant repairs these great SAV’s need.

I will watch the UT video and I have thin screw drivers up to 18” long. I’m still debating if I should replace the GP’s at the same time (1.5 hours becomes 4 hours at my leisurely pace).

Little update... *FWIW Content*

Test drove another one today that was a 2013 with only 40K miles and all I can say is wow. Felt exactly like the 2011 I drove with 160K miles. In fact, the 2011 with much higher mileage was much cleaner than the newer one with less miles. I'm super tempted to go back and make an offer.

Will continue to keep this thread updated.

Note: the emissions warranty on some very expensive items is 10 years or 120k miles, whichever comes first. This includes the headed SCR tank, the nox sensors, and a few other things. For that reason, I’d buy the 2013 with lower miles.

First time i ever owned a bimmer and got a 2011 35d summer of 2016. Did the diesel emissions deletes ayear or so in, set me back $3000 but I saw it as preventative maintenance. Car runs so amazing though. I just spent $1700 in repairs at 135k mi when valve cover gasket deteriorated and pressurized the crack case putting oil into my turbos and intercooler. Control arms are going bad, they're next.

Seems like almost everything is expensive to repair on a bimmer.

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