2008 X5 3.0si - electrical issues
 

X5 - Alpine White - 3.0si

Hi,

Our X5 has had a few battery/electrical issues recently...

* We have only owned since Aug 2020 (however, it has been well maintained at Vancouver BMW and Saskatoon BMW). Ever since we purchased the X5, it has always started but the starter has always seemed to turn over slowly (rur...rur...rur...rur....then starts!) It has about 167,000km on it.
* About 2 months ago, my wife said the clock display and radio needed to be reset. This happened 2 or 3 times. (I believe this is the battery control system shuts down all accessories to save voltage)
* Shortly after that, about 2 months ago, I replaced the battery with a recommended size battery for this X5.
* Starter still turned over the same (rather slowly - no difference from old battery)
* I bought an Bosch OEM remanufactered starter SR0492X - 779 03817 (but I haven’t installed yet - waiting till Xmas vacation when I have lots of time!)
* This morning my wife noticed the battery warning light was displayed after starting it. She turned it off again. I just checked the voltage under the hood and it was 11.25v before starting (that is low, should be 12.6) and then I started it and voltage climbed to 12.5 at idle and about 14.5-15v at 2000rpm.

I am wondering if I have a parasitic draw on the battery that draws the voltage down? She says it starts even slower if vehicle sits in garage for a few days not being used.

I still plan to change the starter because of how it always turned over slow but maybe that isn’t my main issue. Maybe there is another issue causing the voltage drop..?

Things I’ve considered replacing:

* Alternator (but seems to charge good at 14.5v-15volts?)
* Grounding straps or cables
* Red Battery distribution block that sits on top of battery
* Starter (ordered and plan to replace soon anyway)

What else would your friends in the Service Department recommend? Or have found to a common problem on the E70 X5?

Thanks in advance for your help !!

1. It *sounds* like a parasitic drain indeed, so definitely something to look at; is there any aftermarket components installed? e.g. OBDC reader? dash-camera? any modifications that could drain power? are you sure the car goes to sleep after you lock/close it?

2. Did you register the new battery?

3. The slow start could be a sign of the starter being on its way out -it is a common issue for a X5 that age- it happened to mine; it started behaving like that and after a few months it just died all of a sudden.

Hi, thanks for the reply. The only non-factory device is a iDataLink remote starter which was installed in August of this year (right after we bought it). I had it installed by a professional installer in Calgary and as far as I understand...the iDataLink is T-Harness with no cutting or splicing wires. I recall the starter was slow when I bought it (before the remote install) but I thought maybe it was a BMW thing mainly because I’d never owned one before.

I didn’t register the battery after both talking to a few mechanics and researching on line it seemed that it wouldn’t make much difference in charging even though i guess the computer still thinks the battery is 4 years old. I still have the original BMW battery from when we bought it in August. I reviewed the BMW service records and that battery was replaced in 2016. That’s why I decided to change the battery due to the slow starter but it didn’t make any difference to the slow starter anyway.

If I get the BMW Carly OBD Scanner....can I register the new battery? Or is there an affordable better OBD scanner that you might recommend? Thanks

You may have found your battery drain; not familiar with the iDataLink specifically but if is connected to any of the car modules, it could be preventing the car to go to sleep; e.g., as the remote starter is always waiting for a start signal, then it could be just enough to slowly drain the battery over a few nights; it maybe just high enough to keep the car electronics awake.

If it was not installed by the dealer, will be doubtful of any *professional installer* which are often self-claimed marketing titles.

BMWs are notoriously sensitive to the health of the battery, so it would be safer to register it anyway. The Starter issue is likely just an old starter on his way out but that will put additional load in the battery. The lack of registry may not have an immediate visible effect but will impact the health / life of the battery overtime.

BTW - if you are NOT driving the car a lot, e.g. a few short duration trips only, the battery will not be charged enough, even a new one.

Thanks- I think I’ll contact the installer and ask him about the possibility of a parasitic drain. I’ll remove it if I absolutely have to....but we love remote start.

I didn’t even think going to BMW was even an option for an Remote Starter install because when I was shopping for an X5...the BMW salesperson said BMWs were not designed for remote start systems and BMW Corporation doesn’t think it’s good for a BMW engine or the Environment. I always thought that was a somewhat true but yet unrealistic answer from BMW....now since approx 2018 BMWs have factory remote start now..!

2008 X5 3.0si - electrical issues
 

You may want to connect a volt meter between the battery and the positive terminal and start pulling fuses. When you see that load - of there is one - drop to zero, identify what is on that fuse and work backwards from there. If it happens to be associated with the circuit that the remote start is on, you may have found your smoking gun.

That said, if you see the load drop off, you’ll know it has gone to sleep and can start looking at other things.

Edit - you can also attach an amp meter to the positive battery terminal, or run down to your local parts store, and see how many amps the starter is drawing. If you have a dieing starter that is sucking down the amps, it will weaken the battery, pair that with a few short trips where the battery doesn’t fully recover and that could be your issue too.


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Thanks for the information. I have been researching on this site how to register the new battery - my other option is to just reinstall the old original BMW battery (2016) since I now think it was probably fine.

Thanks - that’s great information. I’ll try to do those load tests tomorrow at the fuse box.

After going for a 30 min highway drive in the X5 around 2pm yesterday I brought it back and trickle charged it at 2amps till about 7pm. Then it sat in my heated garage (+5 Celsius) till 10am Sunday...I just checked the battery voltage and before starting was 12.1volts and then with engine running at idle it was about 14-15volts, ran it 2 minutes while testing, then shut it off the voltage was 12.02.

You may have already said this, but are you testing at the battery terminals or the “jump” posts under the hood? It will make some difference, but is a good indicator of what the car is actually seeing.

I had a mustang that killed batteries kind of like yours may be doing, tracked it back to a corroded ground strap, fixed that and added a secondary ground running directly from the battery to the frame and never had an issue again.

Only reason I suggest that is you’re seeing 14v at idle which seems to indicate the alternator is doing it’s job.

Any update on that possible parasitic drain?


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I already own a OBDLINK MX Bluetooth scanning device....can someone recommend a BMW scan software that might work with this for registering a battery?

I recently used this device along with a scanning software purchase to activate an oem factory brake controller which I had installed on a 2016 RAM 1500.

Just hoping someone might have used this device and BMW compatible software?

Update: I finally had some time so I replaced the original starter on my X5. It took me 4.5 hours to remove and replace the starter. The new starter is a Bosch OEM remanufactered starter - SR0492X and it’s working excellent..! The starter turns over the engine probably 3 times faster and starts the car almost immediately. It appears to have made a big difference. I also still need to get a scanner to register my new battery but at least it seems like I’ve solved most of my weak starting issue.

That is outstanding! I love it when the good guy wins [emoji106]

As far as a scanner, grab yourself a Foxwell 510/510 Pro - it will be money well spent in the long run as you can do all kinds of things with it. Last I looked they could be had for about 149$.

I, unfortunately, don’t know of any software that will work with your BT adapter, doesn’t mean there isn’t, I just haven’t seen any. If you have a laptop you could just bite the bullet and go with ISTA, INPA and NCSExpert, they’re free to download but you would need an OBDII cable - stuff is tough to use thousand there is a leaning curve for sure.


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Don’t check battery voltage right after turning the car off, it’s still drawing. Keep the hood open, come back after 20 mins and check again. By that time the car should have went to sleep, your voltage should be in 12.5-12.6 range.

I recommend BimmerLink app and this Bluetooth OBDII dongle. Total cost under $70 and has battery registration function. I also have Foxwell 301 and it’s POS, BimmerLink is so much better!