Oil pan leaking?
 

Trying to figure out how bad oil pan is leaking on my 09 E70 N52. This year I addressed valve cover gasket that was leaking pretty bad. Now that valve gasket leak is no longer there, I got under the car and took the engine under cover off. I think my oil pan is leaking, it's pretty obvious (see pics).

I am more concerned about oil being near transmission and on the tranny cover. It doesn't look like tranny fluid, although I might be wrong. Couple of questions:

* Can leaking oil pan cause oil go towards transmission like that?
* How soon do you think I will need to address this leak, can I drive it like that for another 30k or so (I put 6-10k a year)?

I have 122k miles and was planning to keep the car at least 'till 150k. Oil pan gasket replacement is a difficult DIY and very costly otherwise, want to avoid that job. :nervous:

I’d take off some covers and look around to see where it’s coming from. You can see where the oil pan mates with the rest of the engine when you take off the metal stiffening plate. Clean / degrease it and try to find the highest point where it’s wet / dirty, that should help you pin point where it’s coming from.

I've had an oil pan gasket leak for at least 21,000 miles. Not enough is leaking out to register on the iDrive. Never makes it to the ground. I suspect it drips out when driving. I change my oil every 7,500 miles.
I was quoted $650 from a independent BMW shop.
I have a $80 Harbour Freight engine support bar from engine and tranny mount work I did on my E46, so I'm considering a DIY on the E70 and my E46 and changing engine mounts while I'm there.
YouTube vids show its not technically complicated, just time consuming. I'm lucky enough to live in the south, where rust is a non-issue.


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+1 re. clean and check the source

Have you checked if your Oil Filter Housing is not leaking?

You already changed the Valve Cover Gasket --which is a common one-- the Oil Filter Housing has gaskets that get compressed/deteriorate over time and create another source of oil leaks......

Bought my e53s at 128 and 112,000 miles and neither had a drop off oil on the engine but somewhere around 160,000 they both started to leak like a sieve.

I have the oil pan gaskets on hand just not the time to install yet.

Wife's leaks enough I could skip an oil change I just changed the filter because the oil is already new.

Change oil cooler gasket while you are in there.

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Yes, planning to change oil filter and cooler gaskets soon. Filter gasket has a very very small leak, I doubt all that oil underneath is from the filter gasket. I am going to clean everything and try to figure out the source(s). This weekend I am going to change my sway bar links and probably replace rattling DISA valve, hopefully will get enough time for the oil leak. I love the car, but these minor issues just keep piling up and keeping me busy :). Thank you all!

Good call to clean everything first. When I did my first OPG I also found the head bolt leaking behind the OFG. When I did my 2nd one I found a leak in the power steering rack.

I went ahead and cleaned everything up. I looked at my oil filter housing again, looks like the leak is getting worse, so I am going to replace oil filter and cooler gaskets next week.

Very common issue. I had mine replaced and I looked down there recently for a oil change and it looks wet again. I hope it's just residual oil. It's not a BMW if it doesn't leak.... lol. I was told last time by mechanics last time its a pain in the ass because you have to remove the CV axles to lower the pan? Not a fun job..


Very odd... Apparently Germans "over Engineer" everything but can't stop leaks. My 2014 Xterra as the same amount of milage 77k and has had ZERO leaks compared to my X5. Well.. I did have to replace the valve cover gasket. But very minor vs the X5..

Yeah, it's weird that the German brands tend to use seals that don't hold up over time. I believe some of it, ironically, is due to environmental regulations in Germany. My experience has been the leaks are usually an issue that comes with time and doesn't really track with mileage. Most of the 2014+ BMWs I've worked on are dry FWIW, it seems like after about 10 years give or take a couple, they just start leaking like crazy.

BMW didn't fight the moronic use of biodegradable seals they lasted about 16 years on our e53s

My brothers E90 had a oil pan gasket leak and oil filter housing as did my BMW X-5 ( E70). On mine I replaced Valve cover gasket, oil plan, oil filter housing. Then all that brittle plastic on the interior and coolant hoses and outlet pipe from the block. :yikes: They don't age well... Sounds like the new ones are better? there's just something about the 07-13's where they cut corners or the bean counters used the cheapest gaskets and plastics.


That makes sense. My older X3 E89 was bone dry for the most part. Much better built.. Well... Except for the transfercase " worm gear" that broke apart. BMW used plastic on a transfercase drive gear.. That was a real hoot taking it out in pieces. :rofl: Amazon actually makes a aluminum replacement from China.. The Irony... the Chinese coming to the rescue. No idea why BMW engineers thought was good choice for a X drive AWD system. Planned obsolesce?

I have a 2008 X5 3.0si and I recently removed both lower engine covers to inspect for an oil leak also and I think I might have the same leak area based on your description and your pictures above.

However, first I am going to do the oil filter housing & oil cooler gasket since they are a common leak point and based on the YouTube videos it’s a much quicker/easier job. I usually do all my own mechanic work & but the oil pan gasket replacement looks like a very time consuming repair since it involves remove the front axles, suspension and lower engine cradle. The video I watched showed a mechanic in a independent shop with a lift and he was saying it will take him at least 10 hours to complete. My biggest fear is that I do that work and the leak continues & turns out to be the front or rear crank-seal. I am very tempted to try Blue Devil Engine Stop Leak but I know probably everyone on this site will tell me that is bad for the VANOS system and other seals. I really like my X5 and I know an oil additive is not a permanent fix but how much time and effort should a person spend on a $7000-$10000 second vehicle?

Some ultra Violet tracer will confirm exactly where the leak is.

I have two e53 both with oil pan gasket leaks.

I also blew out one of my CV joints so I need to remove that one anyhow.

On the m54 it's possible to do the oil pan gasket by cutting it for r&r vs. remove the CV axles but with the right tool it's not terrible to remove them. I may do one each route.

I expect to take two-three days to get the gasket, the CV axle, front brakes and rotors and alternator replaced

I think I am going to try BlueDevil Engine Stop Leak this weekend after doing an oil change. It’s a very thin viscosity additive and it has very good reviews. As I mentioned, I know it’s not a permanent repair and not great for the Vanos but I don’t have time to do the gasket replacements (oil pan, oil filter & cooling housing, crank seals, etc) till this summer in July since it will put the vehicle out of commission for at least a week.

So, I went ahead and replaced both the oil cooler and the oil housing gaskets. Then, I went ahead and cleaned everything up again. I am convinced that my drain bolt is the source of all that mess in the pics. About a year ago I had my drain hole retapped (don't ask me why :), and I think now it's leaking. I applied gasket maker and the leak stopped. The oil pan gasket is leaking too, but it's not nearly as bad as I originally thought.

Now, I have to figure out what to do about the drain plug leak. I think after retapping the bolt goes in a bit at an angle, so the washer doesn't hold well. I am going to try to use two washers next time, if that doesn't work then back to gasket maker. Any other ideas?

It's aluminum. Get a self threading drain plug repair kit. You bolt in the self tapping slightly larger main bolt and if comes with a stainless steel smaller inner bolt for doing future changes.

If you have 4.4 you can get a knock off lower pan for $60-70 that comes with and you said your pan gasket is leaking a little anyhow.

Try AT-205 instead it has no solids it only affects rubber and makes it softer and swell a little. I'm about to use to punt changing my ofhg.


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I bought a bottle of AT-205, but scared to use it. Just replaced my Vanos sensors a while back, but didn't notice if there was any rubber parts.

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The vanos actuator has rubber o-rings that harden and cause the seal to leak. I've done the o-ring replacement on M62 vanos not sure if there is an equivalent fix for M54/ N62 vanos which looks a lot different (but also cost a whole lot less).

When I did the vanos overhaul on M62, new vanos unit was $550@ and it was about $60 for the o-ring kit and $50-80 for the tool to slightly crush the vanos "just right" to tighten up an internal o-ring that you can't access. Genius fix and works well.

I used AT-205 on both my 2001 X5 and the hemorrhaging of oil slowed dramatically!

I would joke I don't need gos to get home I can just follow the drops of oil back.

In seriousness, I had to add oil weekly and I immediately noticed 50-80% less oil dripping. Then, a week later went to add the weekly requirement and the first time this year wasn't below minimum.

It was exactly AT minimum but it was a welcome improvement.

I had to replace my alternator TWICE a couple weeks ago and I did notice that there was clean yellow oil all in the ribs on the side of the motor behind the alternator so I've heard that's for sure OFHG which of course I bought the pan gasket not the OFHG kit but now I can punt on ordering that until tax return.

Oh: and if you are still leary of using the AT-205 inside the motor, don't let it go to waste; the reason I bought it was to my CV and steering boots!

I also used on ONE rubber brake line: with the pressure numbers inside that, might be better to be old and rigid than supple; they say in the bottle don't use inisde brake systems. I'll be sure to post should I end up exploding my brake hose. I will check on it every couple months and report back. It is original 20 yr old hose and has some age checking. I saw some beautiful steel hoses I'd love to upgrade. I need to exchange my brake fluid anyhow.

I know this is an old thread but still…. Looks like I have both oil pan and rear seal leaks. I went ahead and poured a bottle of AT-205. I am happy to report that I no longer see oil dripping on my garage floor and driveway.

AT-205 is "the man". I haven't been able to find it for over a year. Where'd you get some?

Believe it or not... Autozone stocks it. I pick up some whenever I see it on the shelf. I use it with every oil change to keep the VSS job at bay.

Oil pan leaking?
 

I've bought at AutoZone. Haven't seen in any of the 12 or so stores near where I drive for over a year.

I also have bought on Amazon and hasn't been stocked there in over a year either.

Somebody is selling via Amazon for 100% markup and you can also find on eBay for 100-200% markup as well.

Over the last 50 years I don't recall having heard of any MFG. of any brand that was OK with additives. This is another topic where I bow to the MFG. I view additives as bandaids that might cause 'infections' elsewhere in the engine.

One should plan for more issues of all types after 7-10 years and 75,000 miles on any vehicle. There will likely be more fluid leaks. About ten years ago I decided driving long distances using the 4.6 was more risk than I was willing to accept. At that time I increased the allowed free towing miles to 200 miles and started renting an SUV for long trips until we purchased our X5M several years ago.

As inconvenient or painful as it sometimes is, IMO, fix it right the first time.

Here you go Andrew. If you need some, this site might have them in stock.

https://www.autobarn.net/atp-at-205.html

Nevermind, upon further reading, seems that the manufacturer has sited supply shortages and said they are sold out through the end of the year. Guess you'd have to get lucky and stumble upon some on a seldom-visited store's shelves.

Correct.

I bought some oil saver from liqui-moly. I haven't used it yet so not sure how well it compares to at-205 but with OFHG it dropped my oil loss 70%.

Found it on Amazon, but it was like $25 per bottle.

Some people are reselling stock they own for double. I'm hoping oil saver will do the job on vss as people are posting feedback that it does

I spoke too soon guys, it's leaking again :(