I'm not the first one to mention this problem, found a similar thread here with the exact same issue:

https://xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/...lp-needed.html

I'm having the exact same problem. Did you ever find a solution?

I installed a repair kit to my heater control valve recently and like your new valve, it didn't remedy the situation. Now that it's finally warming up here on the Front Range, I'd really like to solve this. When my repair kit didn't fix it, I suspected perhaps the electrical solenoid(s) inside the valve was the culprit. But if you replaced the whole valve, then I fear I'll encounter the same result if I spring for a new valve.

Based on the limited search results, it seems this is not a super common problem.

AM.

P.S. Interestingly, mine's a 2010 model as is OP's, though a 35D rather than a 30i. Mine is an April production which means it came with CIC and perhaps a few other early LCI updates. If there's correlation, then perhaps that explains why this issue seems relatively rare? Just a thought.

I had the AC evacuated and charged at BMW dealer. It had almost no refrigerant in the system. So far we are running the AC all the time now. Another potential area of interest is the plastic trim piece that runs along the cabin filter box area under the hood. This falls apart and allows hot engine air to enter.

And oil smell.

Ouch?

Take a $150 and make it a $450 job....


Just FYI- assume they did a pump down and it held vacuum with no leaks? Then refill and add UV dye? Thats standard/best practice

Thanks, Richard. My partitions are starting to crumble, but they aren't totally failed yet. Maybe I'll go ahead and order new ones anyway, as they're not long for this world. My AC works great, so I don't think that's my problem. It's when I have my AC OFF that I get unacceptably warm air flowing through the vents. Where I live, we have a LOT of days where all you want is fresh outside air flowing into the cabin. No need for heat or AC.

AM.

Service advisor had my partitions replaced last time I had it in getting some other work done. I was happy not to have to do it myself.

I find that I need to run AC when ambient is warmer than about 8° less than my comfort zone. Eg I usually have my temp set to 73F. If it's 65° the cabin will get hotter than 73 so I need to run AC.

I did also have a problem recently where I needed to set my temp much hotter to be warm and much colder to be hot. I discovered a week later that one side in the back seat was set to 60F! I set the back to copy driver and that problem went away. I then set the back seat to off and the front reaches the set point much faster.

Point of fact; "driver controlled" is not an override like the window switch; any adjustments in the back will disable "rear seat copies driver" or "disable rear controls".

It's been 97-100 lately and I figured this issue out just in time!

I have found that I can just use a burst of AC every 10-20 minutes if the ambient is close to my preferred temp especially if at night; the sun is the main cause of cabin heat woes.

Hi - I'm experiencing the same issue, A/c is charged, but when is OFF, I get ONLY Hot air in the cabin, regardless of the iDrive settings (Cold) and the lowest temp setting (16C)


How can I read the flap position settings?

When I posted the above, I did not realize how bad my partitions truly were. They had crumbled away so cleanly, that I didn't realize they were supposed to be much taller than they were. I also eventually realized I was missing the rubber seal that goes all along the top of them. With new Chinesium partitions and a BMW top seal, mine is mostly fixed. Frankly, it's kind of a poor design and it's difficult to perfectly seal the IHKA intake area from the hot engine compartment. If I am not moving, the engine heat will creep in and I'll start getting warm air. As long as I'm moving, I don't have a problem.

AM.