HELP - 35d Throttle body clicking, okay to drive disconnected?
 

So my wife called early in the day saying the car was shuttering when shutdown. I'd experienced this once or twice, but nothing consistent previously. Did some brief searches, and it seemed like the throttle body was the obvious culprit.

Later she called and said there is a loud clicking noise coming from under the hood, even after the car is shutdown and locked up.

When she got home, I found the throttle body shaft (with the spring wound around it), pulsating and making the loud clicking noise. Even after she shut it down, it was pulsating like it was stuck and trying to turn.

Eventually disconnected the wiring harness from the throttle body to stop it. Other than the shutter on shut down, it seems to start and run fine otherwise.

I'm surprised it runs with this disconnected? Is it doing any damage to drive it this way short term, till I can get the part and replace it?

Without an operational throttle body, it will shudder on shutdown and DPF regeneration may be inhibited. The DDE is attempting to cycle the throttle body to ensure satisfactory operation after shutdown. Not sure why it's so insistently trying to complete the test. The throttle body is more aptly called an anti-shudder valve. It also trims the intake air volume during DPF regeneration. It also can provide diesel runaway protection. During normal operation, it sits about 95% open. I replaced mine around 100k miles with a Pierburg OEM unit.

Thanks for the reply, that pretty much confirms my suspicion I should be okay to drive it for a short time (week or less) till I get the part and the time to replace it.

Ended-up finding some good threads on Bimmerfest late, late last night with similar symptoms helping to verify the initial diagnosis. At least it doesn't look like it is too much of a pain to swap out..

Sure. I drove a bit before replacing it but mine never clicked. That would worry me a bit. Suppose you could leave it.unplugged. Don't want to wait too long since the DPF could be affected long term. Wasn't too difficult to replace. I used a long Allen ratchet extension for the mounting bolts. I also replaced the cross member support attachment bolts as the TIS directed. I'd buy new mounting bolts less you drop them. I didn't but fortunately the one I dropped fell put the bottom.

FCP Euro for the win (had northing but good experiences thus far with them). Order parts on Thursday, Delivered on Friday (with he holiday really thought I'd have to wait till this week for the parts to arrive)..

Anyway, was an easy job to replace the Valve, but the O-ring was not sealing well, and hasn't for years would be my guess. The Mess created by the Oil that seeped out was everywhere. Less than an hour to replace the part, several hours tryign to clean thing up as best I could..

Replaced both the o ring on the throttle valve as well as the seal on the charge hose, hoping no more oil everywhere..

Shuts down as it should now, will check in a day or so and make sure the code has cleared.

I know the emissions contribute to oil in the intake, and the resulting carbon builds-up (EGR looked like crap), but this much oil normal? There was literally a small pool of it in the egr valve, and the charge hose is pretty oily as well. CCV Bad? Just need a Catch Can? Hoping this is not an indication of a Turbo Issue? :dunno:

Pics attached..

Should have mentioned the o-ring. I almost think I got.lucky and the Pierburg unit came with one? Or I picked one up on the fly before Bavarian Auto got killed by ECS. Bavarian was right down the road. I had a little oil trail about 1/4" wide running along the bottom. There was a slight amber color otherwise. To me, that is not "normal" but I know my experience is different than others. I think my use is different. My trips are 50 or.more.miles and sometimes several hundred miles at a clip. Ends up being about 20k miles a year until the last couple of years.