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I mean it really depends on your requirement/expectations. For me, functionality is fine. I have it setup mostly how I like it and is fairly decent. But it's definitely not polished like BMW CIC. There's a good 15 sec or so delay booting up, I have it specifically set to play music of the flash drive - as opposed to say the last state the unit was on before it was shut down. It's certainly not an equivalent to the oem system. That said, I have no regrets buying and consider it an upgrade. Bigger screen, Bluetooth (didn't have in my 2010), internet radio, Android auto, playing movies off a flash drive (not dvd), better resolution, gauges for boost/oil temp/coolant temp via scan cable behind the dash, etc.
Yes, everything on CIC works as it should - FM and sat radio, dvd player, climate controls, menus. I really don't ever use the oem side though unless changing settings or climate controls. Hope that helps. |
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Mine is a 2008 so I've got the CCC system. It does come with navigation (albeit old map) and bluetooth (handsfree calls only). I'm mainly considering the upgrade for a better navigation system, aftermarket backup camera and just generally more modern features like Spotify on longer trips etc. On a regular day i usually just listen to FM radio, but the function you mention about having boost/oil/coolant temp shown sounds very cool. How did you go about setting that up? and am i able to have that displayed on the Android side while listening to FM radio on the OEM side? |
For gauges a usb dcan cable plugged into USB hub going to the unit running behind the dash. Also an obd splitter so it's all hidden away. I also cut apart the obd splitter and wired a relay into the +12 supply which is triggered by the ignition. This solves battery drain from the dcan cable being plugged in. There's several apps like Carly and bimmerlink. I think some people got torque working, but I never got it going with USB. Yes you can listen to oem side while on Android.
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Sorry, was out snowboarding on vacation for a few days. I have a 4-port hub wired to one of the USB input to the unit, the other input is wired directly to the DAC. The hub has the DCAN cable, USB drive, keyboard dongle connected. No external power for the hub, though I imagine it would not be an issue if you needed more current than the connection supplies. But for the obd splitter I did cut it apart and added a relay that is triggered by switched power. This way it only powers on when the ignition is on. This prevents the cable from draining the battery since it is powered from the obd port.
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