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E70 diagnostics cable
What cable and software are most guys using for the E70? Anyone using an Icom unit ?
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I knew somebody was using the ICOM but I couldn't remember who ;) Which ICOM clone did you get and how is it working out? Are you using Windows 10 for ISTA?
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I ordered this kit but they are out of stock currently: ICOM Ebay Listing.
I am using Win 10 for the complete BMW software suite. I need to update my ISTA and daten files though, using an older copy. Haven't run into any issues with it other than ISTA-P sometimes freezes on loading and locks the ICOM requiring powering down the laptop and the ICOM. |
My "One Stop Electronics" cable doesn't work with the E70 because the vehicle doesn't have the #1 ignition terminal in the diagnostic connector. I ordered another K+D CAN cable hoping that at the price they are now they have that figured out. If that doesn't work then I will probably mod the second cable with a switch to simulate the ignition or get an ICOM unit. I imagine the ICOM parses the data stream to tell if the ignition has been switched on?
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Yes, the ICOM knows when the ignition is switched on and can differentiate between the different terminal positions: "Off, KL-R, KL15-ACC, KL30-Run, and KL-50-Engine start.
The real-time voltage readout is nice as well in ISTA. I use it with a powersupply (Powermax PMBC-75LK) that I also bought off ebay. Seems to work well. Have programmed entire vehicles' power train modules with it to bring up to latest integration level without issue. Not sure it would provide enough amperage for the F15 X5, but it has worked well on all the E chassis vehicles. BTW, I am by no means a BMW module guru. Just wanted the most complete tool set I could have since I have 5 Bimmers in the driveway at any one time. I also use Foxwell NT530 (mostly on F15), the K+Dcan cable you mention, and also a Carly setup. Grandfathered in original user for Carly or I would not use it. Actually I should plug it in to make sure they did not change their policy for being "grandfathered." :rolleyes: |
Awesome! That is some really good info, thanks for sharing :) I bought a "MegaWatt"
power supply off Ebay a few years ago and put some effort into getting some good cabling on it but then only worked for a short time ;( so I bought a big "Schumacher" charger when they came on sale. I noticed that there is an Ebay seller with a more expensive ICOM clone that claims to have "real" chips for the critical ones so I might go that route. |
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I'm not sure on the different clones other than the research I did before purchasing. I read a lot on vxdas.com and obd2sales.com when comparing. This site has the most info about the different clones though and some very handy tech articles too: Which BMW ICOM Next Clone is the Best? | OBDII365.com Official Blog |
Thanks again! :) BTW the E53 is supposed to have a feature that turns off the running lights when you pull the E-brake although it didn't seem to work on mine. I wonder if the E70 has something similar to minimize drain on the battery when coding ?
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I'm using the full suite on a Windows 10 laptop and K/DCAN cable I got a long time ago.
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I am using K-DCAN cable along with Carly/Bimmertools lite/BimmerCode/BimmerLink on my phone and ISTA on Windows 10.
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So I got the K+D Can cable and it does now see the "ignition on" I still get a CAN bus communication error though (I'm thinking it's a cable issue) and I can't seem to get the service functions working in DIS ;( I played around a bit with INPA and that seemed to work fine (but in German) but I think I reset the Readiness monitor and now my check engine light is on with no DME codes! I'm thinking the light will go out when the drive cycle is completed ?? We don't do much with emissions testing here so I have no experience with how that works.
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I don't use DIS or I'd try and assist. Try to get a copy of ISTA running. I find it the most complete when doing diagnostics. The installations are much easier to get through now than they used to be. Otherwise, I use the other methods mentioned earlier if outside of the garage.
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After a lot of fiddling with the cable (junk!) I finally got the idle with A/C on down by 50 rpm. The adjust range is limited to -50 to +150 which sucks but the -50 is welcomed :) I wish I would have bought a real ICOM unit when they were available for about $500 (I think) There are a few available for $800 + which is over $1000 in my money and I just can't afford that at the moment. I'll probably play around with the cable to see if I can get it working better. I checked again for codes and there is none but my check engine light is still on which is freaking me out a bit! Can anyone verify that is normal for the CEL to be on until the drive cycle is completed. It was never on until I reset the readiness monitor instead of the adaptions.
OK, took it for another drive and light went out! :) :thumbup: |
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BTW, I also wish I had bought a real ICOM before the chip shortage. They were "only" $400 US before the chip shortage. Now most places are out of stock, or as you mentioned, over 2x the price. :confused: Fortunately the clone I purchased has been working great on all my vehicles. Fingers crossed that continues. |
I've had a bit more time to look into the cable issues and it looks like there is a good chance I just need to set my latency on the One Stop cable to get it working properly with the Dcan :) It's been a while since I messed with this stuff and I'm getting older! It's good to hear that your clone ICOM is working good :) I have heard a few stories about the clones dropping out the same way a crappy cable can do so that would really suck!
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