Front CV axle DIY?
 

Tried to search, but it doesn't appear to be working for me.

Anyone know the procedure for replacing front CV axles, driver side? I found precisely one video, and the guy gets clearance by removing both lower ball joints.

Wondering if I can get enough play by removing the swaybar link and the upper pinch bolt/upper wishbone ball joint. Anyone done it this way? I realize that I also need to remove the strut fork from the straight lower control arm/tension strut, as it passes through it.

I have done this job on my A4 a few times, with a similar knuckle design and that's how it's done: the knuckle swings down to gain enough clearance (and the strut fork is curved, instead of having the axle run through it) so it's even easier.

Any advice? The lower ball joints are much larger than the upper and I'd prefer not to mess with them if I don't have to.

On the e53 you just unbolt the two 16mm bolts and the whole knuckle will move out of the way. I haven't had to do the e70 yet but I would try the same trick though the front suspension is a lot more complicated on e70

Good to "see" a familiar face ;).

Yeah, done my E53 axles a couple of times (180k miles, still have it, bought it new). Those are pretty easy.

Had to stop and order an axle puller/press tool, the halfshaft is stuck in the hub and won't push out. Looking at the E70 design, there's a control arm right under the halfshaft, with a bushing on the inner end, ball joint on the outer. I'm thinking that's going to be a problem.

Attachment 83499

TIS directions


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Perfect, thanks! Looks like they want the control arm removed at the inboard end; that's easier than popping the ball joints. Press tool arrived today, but too busy to try it.

Update, axle out of the bearing/knuckle. No need to mess with the ball joints in the bottom of the knuckle, just unbolt the straight lower control arm from the subframe; wiggle the axle out. I did need to separate the ball joint for the steering tie rod.

You will probably need some flavor of press, the kind that bolts to the hub and uses a large bolt to force the axle out. I have a generic axle puller and it wouldn't budge it. Same thing to get it back in, a thin wall threaded adapter screws onto the axle end and pulls it into the bearing/hub. The set I bought included both.

Front CV axle DIY?
 

I built my own axle press from an old front rotor and a 1" grade eight bolt.

I shattered the first one at about 25,000# force. I rebuilt it stronger and only applied about 25,000# then 5# hammer to add about 10-15,000 more.

I built a special tool from an old axle that I can clean the hub better than new. Once that poked through with thumb only I put the axle back through.


Tis I didn't see disconnect tie rod. They do mention turning wheel left and right. Helpful to see somebody else do this before me.

Yep, it was easier to pop the tierod than find the sweet spot trying to steer it. Using a rotor is a great idea; as you know if will fit the hub.

TIS mentions disconnecting the straight control arm, strut fork and the "front axle support"; no idea what that is. I disconnected the sway bar link as the upright is really hard to maneuver with it in place. Maybe that's the "axle support".

I thought I could snake a long punch/pry bar to pop the axle out of the diff from underneath. No dice, the aluminum reinforcement pan needs to come off to get a straight shot at it.

More tomorrow...

Front CV axle DIY?
 

I think the tis mentioned using a pair of small tire iron or something.

Nothing beats my home made press. I can apply ≈ 40,000# impact force (preload 25, hammer additional 15).

On my first stuck axle, I striped the threads of my slide hammer trying to pounds it out. Then I bent the crap out of some thick steel.

The rotor fix worked comically easy. I spent about 80 minutes before the rotor tool and not 45 seconds with the awr press.

Then on a customer car where I wasn't replacing the CV so needed to be more gentle, I set up with the rotor and based on the estimated torque on the 1" lubricated bolt, applied just about 12.5 tons of force before it exploded into three pieces.

When I cut the "top hat" off the rotor I icky left about 3/8" thickness. Fortunately I had two rotors so I kept about 5/8" on the second take.

I preloaded to about the same torque so 25,000# but then hit the end of the 1" bolt to apply 10-15,000# impact on top of the preload. Instant satisfaction! I could tell it moved becusse I could turn the bolt. So I turned bolt a little after 2-3 hits. After about ten reps I could just turn the bolt no more need of hammer. That bastard was very rusted in.

Tis mentioned some special tool to hold the top of the swivel bearing.

Hi Andrew, can you share the passenger side TIS PDF as well? Thanks!