Codes 2E0F and 2D43.
 

My 2011 x5 35i started like normal today.
After a few stops, it didn’t want to start. It sat for 30 min then started again.
These are the 2 codes that pop up.
2E0F: Valvetronic system deactivated.
2D43: Valvetronic system adjustment range, faulty range check.

I tried to calibrate it and I just hear a rapid click, but the scanner says “operation successful.
The codes do not clear at all.
Slight whining noise when I start it and 2 rapid clicks when I turn the engine off.

I’ve read it could be, dirty oil, mhd tune, Valvetronic motor and Valvetronic shaft, or battery.

I’ve had no battery issue. I will measure cca/voltage to verify the battery is good.
I am due for an oil change so I will do an oil flush and change it. I do have an mhd tune, but I’m not sure if that would cause it? I’ve had the time for a couple of years.

Any other info on this before I replace the Valvetronic motor?
Odds of Valvetronic shaft being bad?

Thanks.

When you say "codes don't clear" are you saying they don't go away or you can't clear them with the scanner? AFAIK the Valvetronic calibrates itself everytime you turn the key but I'm only starting to tinker with mine a bit (N52) getting to know how it works.

Codes 2E0F and 2D43.
 

https://youtube.com/shorts/TxhJKT3ob...vgROBk6SW9y60h

Does the rapid click sound similar to this video?

This video shows wear on the gears but that's not the actual problem in that case. The motor is not strong enough to extend the eccentric half gear all the way and will fail calibration.

In the video the guy replaced the gear/ shaft he just needed to replace the motor that comes with the pinion gear. (Not that it hurt to get a fresh reviving gear on the shaft)

https://youtube.com/shorts/r7EIcau6-...rGPelbHWibIV43

Here's an example of a working motor going through the full range of motion.

I can click clear with the ignition on and the codes will not clear. I can hear it trying to calibrate and it sounds normal sometimes and other times it doesn’t.

So the slight wear on the Valvetronic shaft is ok?
I am fine replacing the motor, but seeing any wear on the shaft and having to replace it is worrying me.

My noise is similar to the noise in the video where they have a new motor and shaft installed. It makes a clicking noise right before the shaft fully rotates. Looks like it’s trying to engage and clicks until it fully engages. Thats the only noise. No constant noise. Just TRRRRT for half a second. My noise does not sound like the video where they show the failed motor, where’s its constantly making noise.

Here is a video of my car making the noise. The first clip is when I try to calibrate it. The sound is very faint, I can hear it on my phone with volume up. The second clip is the whining noise which started yesterday, and the 2 clicks after I turn the car off. The 2 clicks after the car is shut off make the same noise as the single click when calibrating.
https://youtube.com/shorts/Hqi6bqJBT...a28Kaj2jK8cht-

I’ve also edited the video you posted to highlight the noise that I hear.
https://youtube.com/shorts/flwhPhVZ2...PGcE5lzeYcK-MO

So I can get away with just a new motor if the gears on the shaft aren’t totally destroyed?

if you notice the video you sent back, the clicking is on the Fixed one, so it is not in the gears that Sound is in the motor. I believe the motor comes with the pinion gear and that should solve your issue.

Yes, the noise is from the motor, but the motor is still spinning trying to spin the shaft/gears. So my motor is to weak to spin the shaft, it tries to and that’s when it makes the noise?

Yes, a new motor comes complete ready to install. I got a new motor today.

So if the shaft has a tiny bit of wear like the one shown in the video, it is still good?

I got a new motor today, if I plug in the new motor to the wire harness and try to calibrate it, will it calibrate or not since the motor pinion gear isn’t driving anything?

I am ordering a new valve cover gasket and new metal plate gaskets that go under the fuel injector housings.
I did not get a chance to change the oil today. I am still holding out that an oil flush and change may clean the oil feed tube to the gears and clear the error.

Thanks.

Codes 2E0F and 2D43.
 

The oil feed tube is important. If it fails the gears will self destruct quickly.

Dont do an oil flush unless you also plan to drop the oil pan to scrap out the sludge.

(Personal experience)

My understanding fits your description. The Valvetronic calibrates each drive cycle from what I've heard. There's some chance a failed sensor can cause similar errors.

Can't wait to hear feedback that it's on and working!

Hmm, I’ve done oil flushes for the past few years on my n5x motors..

The Valvetronic motor and sensor are in the same unit on an n55.
Since one of the codes is “Valvetronic disabled”, I read the system is in open loop and it is ok to drive the car.
Is this correct?

https://youtu.be/JnlnMFnUYCo?si=dbYBkfOYCpzZqBYR

Bummer I just looked up the procedure and it's under the spark plug/injector wells! That's an all day job. Not terribly difficult but will require one special tool to remove/replace four injectors also a new head cover gasket (what everybody besides BMW calls valve cover gasket).

I just replaced my valve cover it's a job. Not difficult just tedious.

Remove the screw holding the AC lines too the bulkhead too get an extra inch to clear the VC.

Codes 2E0F and 2D43.
 

My understand is disabled Valvetronic is not mission critical nor damaging but the phase BMW likes to use applies: drive moderately.

On the N62 a very common diagnostic technique and workaround for badly running motor is to unplug the Valvetronic motors.

The N63 is the more touchy motor regarding oil flushes.

If my n55 started acting up I'd unplug the VT motor.

Ok, I will unplug the motor for now.
I don’t think it will get any use until it is fixed, but just in case it does.
I will order an injector removal tool.

I did the valve cover gasket 10 months ago..
It is tedious, but doable. I remember the worst part being trying to install the cover while keeping the gasket in place.

Do you have a photo of the AC you’re saying to remove?

While doing this, I’m going to install the motor, plug it in and turn the key/ign on and try to calibrate and reset codes to make sure it will work before I put the cover on.
I will remove the fuel pump fuse to prevent fuel from spraying out of the lines.

Thanks.

Codes 2E0F and 2D43.
 

Start the car after pulling fuel fuse and let it starve. There will be no pressure in the many lines. I used one paper towel to collect all the fuel then burned it. (Best way to dispose of gas soaked rag just figure out a safe location like a grill)


https://share.icloud.com/photos/04bM...5rctLUh2UmbDMA

That video shows the two lines. Thai aren't removed just detached from their fixed point so they can move a bit out of the way.

Watch the way I get the VC in/out. I do a little jiggle to get the hanging bolts to get over whatever they catch on.

Hey, you still there? Says you were active today so hopefully you have some insight.

I removed the cover today and replaced the motor.
I don’t know why, but when I did the gasket last year, I struggled a bunch.
Today, as soon as the valve cover bolts were loose, I had the cover out in 2 seconds. About 1.5 hours deep into it.

I put the new motor in, connected it and it doesn’t make a rapier click right away anymore.
I can now see the shaft spin about 1/4 of the way down and then the motor spins the shaft back up until it reaches the stopping point and the motor clicks.

I have not done the Ista re learn procedure.
I also have 2 codes which will not clear.

I am hoping the motor clicking is due to the fact that the stop limits have not been learned and the motor tries to move the shaft when it’s hit the physical stopper and just clicks.
I am also hoping the 2 codes are due to the same issue, re learn has not been done.

The gear on the shaft does show some polished areas where the motor spun against it. You and others that commented on that video said they shaft was fine and there was no need to replace it. I hope that is correct.

I am going to download Ista and try the relearn procedure.
I can do the re learn procedure with the car off, right?
I have the valvetronic motor plugged in and it is making some movements.

Should I put my old motor in to see if it also behaves the same way or if moves differently?

Thanks.

Newer motors have a concept of "permanent code" you can't clear but they don't set the M.I.L. they will auto clear after the fault is fixed and enough drive cycles have completed.

I think you can run the adaptations before starting the motor key on engine off but also I think the n55 calibrates the Valvetronic every run cycle.

I'm curious what process you used to run the motor through it's paces

I have not done any re learn process through Ista.
I just put the new motor and plugged it in.
It moves the shaft down a bit and the the shaft goes up and the motor clicks because the shaft hits the stopper.

Can the Ista re learn process be done when the car is off?

I haven’t put anything together yet.
Just the motor and it’s connection.

Codes 2E0F and 2D43.
 

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...19e19ce638.jpg

This is the end of the procedure on tis.

I've never done this job and the video didn't mention when the motor reacts. He did say whenever unlock the car it clicked so apparently power is available key off engine off so I'm surprised the repair guide dish but start with disconnect battery

Do you have the link to that Tis?

Yes, whenever the key is near the car, the motor clicks. Almost like it’s getting in position in case you start the car. I put the new motor on and left all assembled with battery connected and it would randomly make noise from time to time. Fuel pump fuse was removed to prevent fuel from spraying everywhere.

So it looks like I need to assemble the car so I can drive it and do the run in procedure.

Here is a video of how my motor behaves now.
It is 4 different clips, but clip 2 and 3 look the same because the camera didn’t move.

The first 2 clips is how the motor moved right after install.

The third clip shows a smooth motion moving the shaft down quite a ways and then back up and clicking.
The fourth clip shows the shaft in its normal position when engine is off and the motor moves it down a bit and then back up and clicks.

Here is what I think.
The smooth motion in the third clips tells me that the gear on the shaft and the new motor will work and mesh together.
The movement of fourth clip makes me think the motor is moving the shaft down and then back up based on stock motor/DME settings, but the shaft hits the physical stopper so the motor clicks.

I am hoping that the re learn fixes this issue and it is not a shaft issue.

https://youtube.com/shorts/-HQTZ6KxQ...sVaJD7nEHEQEGz

In case things couldn’t get worse, you can also hear my 6 month old water pump beginning to fail I think. It is starting to run when the ignition is on.
Lifetime warranty from Fcp but the second most annoying job I’ve done on this.

Have a helper if you have to replace the pump. Use bimmerlink to confirm it's working properly. If it ever stops the radiator fan will kick on full speed. Mine cycled on/off every 40 seconds or so for a week while I was waiting for the parts.

I think you made a correct assessment of your Valvetronic motor and it'll act weird trying to drive past the hard stops until it's trained where they are


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

I am back.

I finally got ISTA.

The adaption limit position didn’t work.
I read a few posts about how updating the DME would solve this issue in some cases.
I updated the DME with winkfp and same issue.

ISTA reads out during the test on like step 4: Engine speed could not be determined to be 0 or Valvetronic motor is in emergency operation.

Well, the engine is off, so speed is 0, Valvetronic motor clicking though is probably what it means by emergency operation.

ISTA diag says to replace motor and shaft.
There is a $300 shaft on Amazon with a few good reviews and photos. I may try that.
So to do list:
Replace motor, shaft, shaft bearings and valve cover.

I do not think the DME is bad as it has been on other cars I’ve seen in threads. My Valvetronic motor still moves and there’s no internal DME faults, so it should be fine.