FYI: those mandrel/collet/drill chuck type stud extractors are awesome. I had 4 studs that I fought with for a bit and instead of the usual “break em off and drill em out” routine, I bought an extractor for studs. Worked like a charm. Had all 4 stubborn (1 broken) studs out in 5 minutes. The teeth bite into the studs which destroys the threads but I bought all 12 planning to replace them anyway. Still had to double nut them to thread the new ones in but it’s easy enough.
That thing was a life saver.

Soo….
It was a long weekend. Nothing seemed to go easy. I got the manifold pained “flame proof” white. Got it reinstalled to the head. The torque for those studs is 19nm. I had to run out and pick up a 1/4 inch torque wrench that would go down that far. I’m having a hard time convincing myself to not tighten them more than that. I didn’t but man, that just doesn’t seem like enough for an exhaust manifold with 2 turbos hanging off of it.
All the heat shields are back on the manifold and the oil supply line to the dist. block was replaced. I started taking down the subframe to make room for the large turbo and dpf but it fought me all day. I have it up on ramps cause I trust them far more than jacks and stands. As a consequence, however, when I started to lower the subframe, the rear wheels pushed my chock back an inch. The front wheels pretty much stayed where they were. So with 1 bolt left securing the subframe, it twisted and the whole subframe cocked sideways and back. Now that last bolt is jammed and holding a load. Can’t get it out and can’t get it back in. The engine is supported with a jack, the subframe with 2 jacks. It’s got so much tension on that bolt, I was afraid to get a pry bar in there and try to release it. I figured I’d wait for daylight and get at it again after work tomorrow. Wish me luck. As always, any pointers through this process are welcome.

Appreciate the updates, man what a PITA. Sorry for your troubles, hope it is going better today.

Haha. Such is life 13brian. Sometimes it’s smooth and you float passively and peacefully down the river. Sometimes it requires “violence of action”, force of will, sacrifice , and a bigger effing hammer just to win a few small victories. It’s really cold out but perseverance and vigilance are key with this one. I left work a little early today and was able to spend almost 2 hours of daylight sorting it out. I was able to get the last subframe bolt free with a little precisely placed leverage. Subframe is entirely off the pins now but is shifting at least an inch. I have some ideas for when I need to reposition to reinstall but we’ll see when we get there. With the subframe down a few inches, the large turbo went in without much difficulty. I got the flange close to the exhaust manifold, then got never-seize on the bolts. It’s awkward trying to hold the weight of the large turbo with one hand, slip in the gasket and line it up, then thread the outer 2 bolts with the other hand. Took a while but I finally managed to get them to swallow and used the 2 long bolts to make sure the gasket stayed lined up at the rear. Got it just snug and installed the oil drain tube to the block, then the turbo. It was a tight fit but finally got it with a 1/4 inch drive 6mm Allen bit and lots of extensions. So success tonight. After work tomorrow I’ll try to get the oil feed line tight, make sure the connection at the block is tight for the supply hose to the dist block, and reinstall the braces to it. Then I can tighten the drain hose and install the new large turbo oil feed line.
Once this is all done, I can move on to the dpf installation. It’s an eBay find so I’ll let you all know how it goes. It does look good. I’ve got a replacement def injection nozzle and a new v-band clamp for the turbo side. I’ll install the new slip/sleeve clamp on the mid pipe side and it’ll just be plastics and belly pans left to do laying on my back in the driveway. Small turbo should be a breeze after that. The problem that’ll slow me down is all the vacuum lines and wiring to those sensors and vac actuators.
I’ll update again tomorrow. Gotta get it done now asap. We’re down to one vehicle and my wife has been walking to work.
Wish me luck.

I've been following along just out of curiosity. Glad you're almost home free! I assume you know, but there's a requirement on new turbos to prime them with oil. They may even come with a special lube? I haven't done it, I've just run across it in my reading.

Anyway, best of luck as you wrap up your project!

AM.

@Diesel Spectre Tom Best of luck to you, indeed. Appreciate your detailed info and updates. I sure have been in similar situations, feel your pain.

Since the manifold has been worked on and the turbos are being replaced, don't forget to reinstall the steel spacer ring (11657802595) between the manifold and low pressure turbo. I frustratingly chased some turbo under-boost codes for quite a while and replaced all sorts of small items trying to rectify after a full rebuild and upgrades over a $50 part I ended up sending with my turbo cores. I think all the work you have put in is worth it and once the car is running as it should there will be a sense of pride tied to your accomplishments. As for the turbo oil priming, I used a syringe with motor oil to top off the oil feed line orifices prior to buttoning everything up.

I’ve been at it for about 40 min. per evening this week (all the daylight I had left after work). Lower turbo was hung but not tightened. Oil return line (lower half) was installed and tightened. New DPF was installed with new gasket and new clamp. I installed the lower turbo oil feed line but it’s still loose because I’m not happy with how it went. I got (2) tubes of liqui-moly turbocharger breakin additive but it looked like it mostly wanted to run out. I should have added it before I pushed it up there because the Feed hole is on the side. I tried carefully rotating the compressor wheel to “suck some into the journal” but it didn’t work. So I’m looking for a way forward to properly pre-oil the turbo. I could try to fill the oil feed line but with the hallow (banjo) bolt attachment it’s not practical. Any ideas? At this point I’m just making a bigger mess and that liqui-moly stuff is like never-seize. It gets everywhere and end ends up all over everything in the area, including yourself. Maybe if I had a syringe and a small plug, it would actually go in. I’ll try to pick one up at the local drugstore. Any other ideas are welcome.
So the DPF is tightened to the turbo and I will replace the urea metering valve in the first exhaust section. Then I’ve just gotta install the new O2 sensor and both egt sensors in the DPF. The O2 sensor is a wear item and I understand the egt sensors really don’t go bad but I beat the wires on them up pretty hard taking the old dpf out and I figured it wasn’t worth fighting to get the old ones out of the old dpf. Next is the low pressure egr cooler, then I can tighten up oil drain line clamps and I’ll be done laying on my back in the driveway (once I get the subframe back up, engine lowered back down, and all the plastic shields back on). Then I can get to the metal charge piping between the turbos and start working on the upper turbo replacement. Of course we currently have 4 inches of snow on the ground so I may spend this weekend getting started on the upper turbo anyway. It’s too cold to be laying on my back in the snow. Once the heat gets sucked out of me, my hands no longer want to do what they’re told. Haha. So it’s 20 minutes under, 20 minutes getting warmed up so my hands work again.
As far as the “spacer ring”, I did almost forget to install it. Borg-Warner ships new turbos with a protective “bag of expanded foam” that is molded to the bottom half and the top half. The ring was under the turbo and almost completely included in the bagged foam shipping protection. I just spotted the shine from the metal and thought what else would come with a new turbo. Sure enough, that was it. Went and looked at the old one for orientation and you really can’t screw it up. Just have to remember to use it. Without that piece there, the changeover valve will never be able to do its job. Again, vigilance is best when you’re this deep into it and you don’t do it for a living. A questioning attitude and slow path forward (no matter how tedious) are going to help avoid the typical sanfus.
Back at it today but with the snow, I may not have any progress.
With the complexity of this task, I really wish I could delete it. It would substantially simplify this job and make it much more reliable (as well as far less expensive). Oh well, outside of my control.
Wish me luck.

On your broken metering unit, is the little plastic nipple that slides into the hose still good? I need that plastic nipple, as mine is leaking. If the nipple is still good, I'd be happy to send a few bucks your way to have you drop it in the mail to me. No hurry.

Attachment 83904

AM.

That’s actually the reason I’m replacing it. I broke the nipple taking it off. It was still functional, just too old and brittle to be messed with so it gave up. I still have to get the remainder of the nipple out of the hose and it’s pretty much flush.