Anyone direct wire a Radar Detector in E70
 

I have seen and used the direct wire for my passport in the E52 using the homelink wires, just wondering if anyone has direct wired their E70 for a spliced in radar detector. If so any pics and descriptions would be appreciated.
Thanks

I have done this in every bmw I have owned, its very simple. If I remember correctly usually brown in ground (or brown stripe). If you take in your radar detector to radio shack you can get all the parts you need for about 8 bucks without having to cut up your regular cord. Pick up the correct 2 prog connector for your model radar, the cord, and a inline fuse. Then its just a matter of finding the correct wire up in the map lights/sunroof controls. On my e53 it turns on and off when the car doors are unlocked and locked. It stays on for about 5-10 min when I lock the car and then powers off when the cars AUX power is cut off.

I think there is a e53 write up on the homepage for this, it is very simple to do and should be very close to your e70. the wires you use might be different colors though.

i also did this on my e53. i took it to the dealer to get the ipod hookup installed, and they ripped everything out for my radar detector...then told me that it would "void my warranty" fyi.

i am looking for an installer in the nyc area who can install a Bel Pro Remote RX75 Plus Radar Laser Detector Blocking System. i no longer like the suction cups / visor clip option for my e70.

I am trying the new Passport 9500 and have been very impressed. Agree on the suction cups. I am looking for another way to mount/hide wire. You do need to be able to interact with it a little bit because you can tap 3 times and the gps remembers to block the location so you basically eliminate false positives in your local area. Nice feature.

I used your suggestion in the e53 I had and tapped into the wires using the illustration provided here a couple of years back. With the new electronics in the E70 I am hesitant to tap into a wire. I was hoping someone with more experience in auto installs has done this on the X before I try mine. I am nbot even sure how to take down the center light panel in this X to look for wire.
Thanks

I havent looked at the e70 but on the e53 it pops right down when prying it out with knife or screwdriver.

Alright, it has been a while since anyone responded to this post. Has anyone hardwired a radar detector or any other accessory on the e70 yet? Can you post your observations, tips, and details of your install?

i had my dealer hardwire my valentine one for like $140 with the kit.

Where did they hardwire it from and what route did they take the wire? Any pics?

I popped the light panel out above the mirror &, using a volt meter, found a wire that was only hot when the ignition was on. I then got a good ground. I ran the two wires out between the headliner & windshield & left enough to put the V1 as high as possible without being blocked.
Sorry, I didn't note the wire color
Good luck

it is right in between the rearview mirror and the headliner.
sorry no pics since i am travelling now. i'll be back next week, i'll take pictures then

oscar please take a picture
 

Oscar, could you please please take a picture of the wire you tapped into and your connection for the members here
Thank you

I've looked into direct-wiring the Valentine One to the E70 X5 extensively. There is a huge amount of info on m5board.com (for example http://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/sho...ight=valentine )

I still don't think that I'm comfortable doing it myself. Does anyone have any recommendations for an installer, that may have done this on an X5, in Westchester county, NY or Fairfield County, CT areas?

Thanks

Brian5,

Hardwiring a detector in the E70 is really quite simple. I just completed my STi-R install and the wiring was a breeze. If you use the T-taps you can draw power from the cig lighter. To access the lighter wire just remove the 3 screws on the passenger side footwell compartment below the glovebox (5 minutes tops) pull down the footwell cover. There is a carpeted panel that runs along the bottom of the console where the shifter is, remove the torx screw at the front of this panel up near the firewall end, gently pull this panel outward (it has two locking rivits holding it in place). Once you pop out the rivit fastners gently slide the panel towards the front to disengage two clips holding the rear of the panel (this takes about 5 minutes as well). Once this panel is removed you will see an exposed wire bundle coming from the cig lighter ( only one bundle from this side). Tap into the switched 12V wire with the T-Tap you can use the screw forward about 3 inches (screw is about 3 inches towards the firewall looks like a console mounting screw) of this for your ground. Really simple takes about 15 minutes to do. Running the wires into your headliner is simple as well. I use a credit card to tuck the wires into the headliner down the Pillar under the weatherstripping moulding and into the footwell area.

Hey thanks! I prefer the sound of tapping into the lighter wire rather than fiddling with the overhead console. Once I receive my X5, I'll look into doing it this way.

Meet one of the service techs at your dealer. At your first service, you can ask to speak to the tech about some made up subject. Then, ask him if he'd like to wire it as a cash side job :thumbup:

Just complete my Beltronics STi-R (Remote) stealth install. I am really happy with the outcome. You can't see the receiving horn in the mid grill. I tried to mount it under the bumper, but there was no room. The interface unit is under the dash on the drivers side, speaker is under the dash behind the console. The display is mounted with a magnet on top of my Cheetah GPS Mirror which interfaces with the radar detector and the controller is wired up through the steering stalk and mounted beside the steering wheel out of site. All the wires were run into the headliner and A-Pillar where needed to hide the install. Here are some quick pics. I will post more when I get a chance.

That looks fantastic.
BTW, How did you feed that "Auto Scan" screen??
I'd like to know which wire in head console is right for hard wiring...

"Does anybody know which wire in the head console is right for detector mounting, yet??"

anyone tried installing a Passport SRX? it is by far the best remote radar detector and laser jammer system. have it in my 2002 x5 now.

Thanks. This is the newest RDD Spectre proof remote detector on the market. I will be also installing a Laser Interceptor for ultimate laser protection.

K40
 

It's certainly not the least expensive option out there, but I have a built-in K40 in my 911 Turbo and will be doing the same thing in the new X5. The K40's now are bluetooth, so you get a small handheld remote that sits in the glovebox. Two very small blue LED lights are installed anywhere you'd like in the interior. I usually pick a spot in the center console about 3-5" apart - looks factory done and works flawlessly (my experience).

Again, it's not the cheapest option, but when you spend this much on a car, you want your installations to look fully integrated.

Josh

Thanks, had planned on tapping into the overhead console but this is much better and is relatively easy thanks to your post.

I needed a Spectre (Radar Detector Detector) immune detector and completely hidden install. The Sti-R comes with l.e.d. for dash, a small display with template and frame for flush mount, and very small control module, control interface which mounts out of sight and the Radar Reciever which is mounted behind the grill or bumper and a small speaker. You can also program the unit for specific bands used in your area or delete certain band that are not. The unit is not cheap, did I mention Spectre proof!!! Also, I have the Cheetah GPS Mirror with the radar Interface so all alerts go to the mirror with voice alert and visual alert. With the Cheetah Mirror you can also set it so it will not alert you if you are under a specific speed. This way the detector is not chirping at you all the time. You can also turn off X-band alerts. The cheetah Mirror has a database of radar cameras built in and you can also program your own locations. oh ya...it's Spectre Proof!:zoom:

Any pics of the K40 in your 911??

I just installed my 9500i up by the rear view mirrow and ran a flat 7 ft phone wire($3) along the headliner down the passenger side A pillar then underneath the glove box connecting it to the smart cord (using a phone line adapter $3) and into the cigarette lighter. No more dangling cords!!!
Only took a few minutes and if you want to mute or mark a location just press the button on the smart cord which is easily in reach. Plus I can quickly move the detector to another car and back if needed. ;)

Hi Denalio

How did you get the cable from the front unit in the bumper into the car to get power and so? I'll do the same thing next weekend and could need some instructions...

Thanks
Ronny

it's been a few months...

i was wondering if you had any issues with the install..

how is the stealth setup?? any issues with weather, bugs, signal strength??

i'm also looking into the STI-R setup...

if Valentine would offer a stealth install design i would probably consider them too!

No issues with the install. The unit is a solid performer. I did have the speaker replaced under warranty. I find the range a little better than my regular STi. Install is quite simple.

might as well keep this very important thread going...

first...great info on the install!!

what about software updates?? on the V1 you have to send in the main unit in order for them to do an upgrade... it is similar with the Bel??

if so, what are you removing and sending back??

have you paired the unit with a jammer??

No updates as of yet. If you there is, you have to send it back to Bel. You simply just send back the control unit. Everything unplugs and I installed the CPU with velcro under the drivers footwell. 10 minute job to take out the unit and then re-install. I have not paired the unit with a Jammer, but since I have the Cheetah Mirror and Sti interface I am looking at the Cheetah P.A.S.S. system although I still like the LI for the slim heads.

I did my Valentine One V1 installation a few weeks ago, completely stealth with help from Jeremy from http://www.delonixradar.com.au.

I took his stealth case, mounted it behind the front grill. The cable goes along the side to the grommet which has been mentioned a lot previously, you'll see differnt pictures before and after drilling the hole though the special part. To seal the hole I took a special 'bubble gum' as shown in the picure in black, don't know how it's called got it from the BMW dealer. Power I took from the switched wire (tested with a voltmeter) of the cig lighter as shown in the picture, the cable goes easily underneath the dashboard. I couldn't find a good place for the remote audio switch on/off for the valentine so I but itright next to the leg, not completely hidden but almost. fixed on the carpet with duct tape.

Looks good. Word of caution. I tried those boxes and they are not 100% waterproof condensation may creep in and the heat build up in the box is a killer.

Will report back if the V1 is damaged :) I don't care that much, the device is 6 years old and would need an upgrade anyway. I sealed it off with silicon again before closing, so should be 99% waterproof. I go into the car wash at least once a week so if it leaks we'll know soon...

i'm not sure you'll get optimum coverage taking a V1 that's designed to be windshield mounted and turning it into a stealth (behind the grill) install...

is that what you did?? or am i missing something???

doesn't the V1 need front and rear visibility??

have you run any tests??

great idea...just not sure if it's the best solution...

It will work mounted in the front grill you just won't get the rear antenna benifit or alerts. I also believe you are right there will be some trade off with sensitivety.

The issue is that it's the only option for a stealth install. Coverage front is good, laser also if but depends from where it's aimed at. Rear signals don't make that much sense as we don't have mobile radar from police cars closing on you. So if you get the rear signal from a stationary radar it's already to late. For laser I mounted it that the laser sensor is visible (see orange tape). Jeremy will provide a smaller case soon so I can mount it in the middle underneath the big grill, from there I'll have even better visibility.

Generally fro all detectors the higher up, the better they work but if that's not an option then mounting lower is ok too.

hey..what did you do for a remote display??

where did you mount it? did you do a custom install??

i just got my V1 and am looking to a custom dash install for the remote display..

on my buddy's audi we cut out a section off a center panel and did a flush mount for the display...

just not sure what the best spot is on the X.

its not the only stealth install option for v1. check this out: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qJa1g3bBSXw

its likely you will have to have this professionally done (i am getting mine done soon) unless you are very handy. also, its extremely difficult to get this done in the e70 with the factory mirror. i am likely to ditch it for another dimming mirror that is easier to work with - but i will lose the compass on the mirror. i never use it (i use the nav), and my installer can quickly switch the mirror back if i sell it or if bmw gives me grief about warranty issues.

now that's what i'm talking about!!! :thumbup:

i want to try that.....

I've tried my remote for my V1 in a number of different locations. I don't see that having it on the right side of the mirrow will work at all.
1. It's no longer hidden from the rear
2. It's really inconvenient to keep looking up at the right of the mirror.

I currently have mine positioned just below the NAV DVD on the left. My remote has been "operated on" so it's pretty thin. Still trying to figure my preferred position. Lower down and out of the direct sunlight seems to work best.

not sure what you mean, it is hidden...i have seen it in person, its totally stealth, no wires or hardware visible anywhere. it works quite well. as for having to look up to the mirror obviously personal preference, but i prefer seeing no hardware anywhere inside my e70. there is also an audible alert, so you dont have to look at anything. i found that a blinking red light in the mirror was very noticible out of my peripheral vision, so i would never have to take my eyes off the road.

Hey, it's not a big deal. If it works for you, then that's good.

1. Regarding not being hidden from the rear, my Navigation letter in my mirror is not hidden right now. It is VERY obvious from the rear. Having V1 arrows and dots would also be visible to followers. (I'm not talking about the wiring.)
2. I know there's an audible alert; I wasn't implying that one should look at the remote all the time. The point is that one of the good things about the V1 is the arrows so it would be really handy to have it be in your peripheral vision without having to turn your head away from road...

what did something like that cost you???

what type of work was done to get that installed like that???

just curious...

I'm a DIYer but i wouldn't do it if it required alot of soldering and custom fabrication of the mirror...

Direct Wire in an E70
 

Yes, I have hardwired a Passport 8500 in BOTH a 2005 X5 and in my (two week old) 2008 X5. It really can be done without a lot of effort. The hardwire is to a switched power supply, so if you somehow leave the unit on, it won't be able to drain the battery. I also had no interferance with this hardwire and any of the other electronics in the car. My vehicles are leased, and when I turned over the 2005 X5, I simply disconnected the unit and removed it to use it again in the 2008 X5. The 2005 X5 hardwire install was easier than that of the 2008.

Unlike other jobs I've done, I took no photographs, but can lead you through the install. I'll write up a complete description....details to follow.

To do this install you'll need the following (assuming an 8500, althogh any other detector is essentially the same):

1. Direct Wire SmartCord or Direct Wire Cord
(SEE: http://www.escortradar.com/shop.htm ). NOTE: If you decide to use the SmartCord, you will need more time to complete the project as you'll need to artfully cut a hole in the plastic that also houses the lights, switches for the sunroof, etc. If you want to do this right, be prepared to spend a 45 minutes to an hour progressively cutting/shaping the oval hole needed. The "Direct Wire" connection doesn't require this step.
2. Plastic Spatula (like for mixing paint, etc.) about 1" in width. Nice for atraumatically prying out lights, other plastic fittings. I use a set of " Standard Medium Strength Plastic " fromwww.bojoinc.com .
3. Drill or dremel moto tool
4. Assorted round files
5. 320 grit (or so) sandpaper
6. Torx screwdrivers

The key elements in this install are:
1. Removing the headliner plastic cover containing the lights, switches, etc. to gain access to the electric power for the detector.
2. Identifying the 12 volt SWITCHED wire to connect to the unit.
3. Cutting a small groove/trough in the front drivers side of the above plastic cover to allow you when the entire project is done, to pull out the cable that connects to the radar detector (whether you've mounted it by suction cup to the windshield or with a clip to the visor) AND THEN EASILY stuff it back inside so that all that is visible is the RJ connector projecting out of the plastic cover (it's barely visible from inside and outside the car).

Finally, if you did like I did and need to reset the sunroof (because you opened it up during the install, didn't close it, disconnected the sunroof switch and then reconnected the switch - DOH!), I can also tell you how to do that (it takes 4 minutes - can't imagine what dealer would charge !).

More details to follow. I'll try to take some pics.

not sure if i missed any during my readings, could you tell me which SWTICH power wire you used in your E70? what color is that wire? thank you.

Lots of posts on that Try this one

The use of this DIY is for reference only; I disclaim all LIABILITY FOR DIRECT, INDIRECT, INCIDENTAL, OR CONSEQUENTIAL DAMAGES OR INJURIES THAT RESULT FROM ANY USE OF THE EXAMPLES, INSTRUCTIONS OR OTHER INFORMATION IN THIS DIY.

http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/b...ishedLarge.jpg

DIY Hardwire Radar Install in Center Headliner

SPECS:
X5 2008 E70
3.0 si
Panoramic Roof
Passport 8500


INTRODUCTION:

CLOSE THE PANORAMIC ROOF COMPLETELY BEFORE YOU START AND DO NOT OPEN IT DURING THIS INSTALL – if you do, you’ll have to electronically reset the roof – no big deal, I can tell you how I did it.

This is the second switched hardwired radar detector install I’ve done (meaning: NO voltage is provided to the radar unit when the ignition is switched OFF, it only receives voltage when the ignition is switched ON) – the other was on an earlier X5 2005 E53. I had no problems with the switched hardwired E53 install (after 3 years of use) and thus far (after about three months) no problems with the E70 install as well. It takes a little effort and if you don’t use the X, can probably be done in less than a few hours (if it’s your first time).

By way of comparison, on 7/12/2008, QMan posted his DIY for a hardwire radar detector:
I just installed my radar detector and after quite a bit of investigation I did find a wire in the center console. It turns on when you open the door, not when you turn the key, BUT CLOSE ENOUGH. If you look at the Start/Stop button's illumination, it makes that behavior. Been using it for a week know and I am happy with it. There is a ton of circuitry in that center console. I marked up the image in this thread to identify the wire. But, I would still verify this wire's behavior beforehand.

In contradistinction, the DIY I describe ONLY works when the ignition is switched ON .

When being used, I clip the radar detector to the visor, but this set up could be easily used with the alternative suction cup attachment. Unlike the E53 install, I had to make a very minor modification in the left front edge of the center headliner console, that allows the cable (that connects to the radar unit) to “retract” into the headliner (you very easily manually feed it back into the headliner space) making it essentially invisible when the radar detector is not attached (and safely put away in the glove box).

The only other cutting of plastic was because I used the Direct Wire Smart Cord (see: http://www.escortradar.com/shop.htm ). Because of this, I had to carefully (!) cut out with a Dremel tool an oval hole in the center headliner console to accommodate the Direct Wire Muting Unit (see image). I then sparingly applied a small bead of epoxy around the Muting Unit on the inside of the headliner to secure the Muting Unit. I’m pleased at how the finished product looks. By no means are you obligated to use this Direct Wire Muting Unit, and instead can simply use the Hardwire Cord to hardwire the cable to a ground and 12Volt switched source. Your time to do the install will be considerably less if you don’t use the Direct Wire Muting Unit.

http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/b.../SlotLarge.jpg

http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/b...slot2Large.jpg

http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/b...slot3Large.jpg

http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/b...nsoleLarge.jpg



PROCEDURE:

1. Remove the center headliner light console (“console”):
Understand that the console is “hinged” at its rear end farthest from the windshield (see images). Conversely you unclip the console from the edge closest to the windshield. It is held in place on the headliner by two clips, that can be pried off by inserting a spatula or other plastic blade under the edge of the console. **NOTE**: there is plastic trim piece that overlies this area and if you can remove it, you’ll be able to see the clips I mention (see also the images to see where the clips are located).

http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/b...movalLarge.jpg

http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/b...nsoleLarge.jpg



Once the console has been unclipped, detach it from its electrical connectors – they’re standard connectors that come out with little difficulty. Since each is a different size, there’s little chance you’ll reconnect them incorrectly if you don’t remember what their proper connection ordering is.

You need to get the console out of the way so you can then: (1) take the console out of the vehicle so you can trim a small amount of plastic from the edge (so the cable can move freely in and out), (2) access the 12volt wire to connect, (3) access the grounding screw to establish a ground.


1. Trim Headliner on left side (driver’s side).
The purpose of doing this is to allow the cable to be pulled out to connect to radar unit and then be EASILY pushed back into the space above the console when the radar unit is no longer in use. I used a rat-tail file to slowly and carefully remove a hemi-circle shaped piece of plastic. Note that you need to file BOTH the black AND grey plastic portion of the console. (see images).

2. Identify the 12 volt switched wire.
The best I can describe this is the wire you’re going to use is NOT found on any of the connectors to console as described above. Instead it is a Green/White wire found bundle wrapped with others and lying in front above the headliner, towards the windshield. (see images for the location of the wire). You’ll have to conservatively unwrap the wire from the bundle to make it more accessible. The next part described is confirmatory and may not be necessary.

http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/b...twireLarge.jpg

Once you’ve identified this wire, I suggest you use a voltmeter to test it with the IGNITION ON and THE CAR MOTOR RUNNING (i.e. the car is parked with the parking brake on and car is “running”) to confirm the wire is 12 volts switched. NOTE that it can be difficult to get a good connection from the voltmeter to the 12 volt wire – I used an alligator clip firmly attached to the wire when I confirmed it was the one I wanted to use. REMEMBER: You need to establish a good ground otherwise it will appear that it doesn’t have the necessary voltage (trust me). After this, turn off the engine and switch off ignition. .

3. Identify the ground.
I used the torx screw as in the image as the grounding source. Loosen screw, slide ground lead under, tighten screw down tight (!).

http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/b...roundLarge.jpg

4. Reconnect the electrical connectors on the headliner, replace the headliner light console, making sure that the cable isn’t being pinched and can FREELY move in and out.
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/b...ishedLarge.jpg

nice post man! appreciated!

Fedmax,

In reading your Valentine 1 install, how did you remove the center interior trim? I am afraid that I will break some plastic trims. I removed one screw towards the front of the car, but the piece still will not come out.

Any suggestions?

Thanks,
Armand

After you remove the torx screw at the front you will have to gently pull the panel to unlock the plastic expansion clips ( I think there are three). Then pull the panel towards the front of the vehicle to disengage the slide locking clips.

Ok, it was two green ones. I just finished my V1 with Stealth install. I'll create a new thread

2008 X5
 

The green/white wire worked like a champ! Used the torx for the ground - now my V1 is happy as can be!!
Thanks for those awesome instructions X5Mod!!!
Took me 5 minutes to pull back the overhead light module, used my fingers to pry it from the front (it hinges at the rear).
Just slipped a thin black rj11 wire through the front against the windshield to the v1.
Plenty of room up there for all of the components.

Thank you X5Mod
 

I picked up my new X5 35d on 12/18 and have been enjoying it very much. I have a Valentine hard-wired in my M5 and wanted to do the same with this car. Following the excellent description and pictures I was able to verify the switched green and white wire and easily installed the Valentine. The only issue I had was getting a good connection with the blue, clip-on connector. The wire was too small a gauge to allow the metal portion to make a good connection apparently. I took the blue connector off and crimped the metal portion that slips onto the green / white wire, re-attached the clip on connector and everything worked fine after that. :thumbup:
Thank you again X5Mod
Robert

Just hardwired a Belltronic X65 to the cigarette lighter. Just pulled the two panels as described in a different thread (do your search) and I was done in 45 min or so. Got the hard wiring kit with the smart switch for 24.99.

I know old thread is old, but I wanted to say thanks for the DIY on page 5. I installed my passport 9500 using the method described with no issues.

I did my Valentine V1 that way too.

Just did my Beltronics - great writeup and pics - thanks!

If you don't want to cut your interior like Xmod did, just fish the cable between the front windshield and the headliner. Yes there is like 4 more inches of cord showing but you don't have to cut your interior. I have did this the last 4 BMW's

Totally agree. I don't know why people do any cutting. Just push it through between the windshield and the headliner.

The cutting is almost impossible to see (as it faces the windshield), and it allows you to push the extra cord back up into the console when you aren't using the detector.

I finished this over the weekend, sorry about the upside down video

will there be much effect if one was to mount the radar detector where the circular dotted tint is located at the very top of the windsheild as seen from the picture below?

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2208/...62620a.jpg?v=0

None at all. I tested above and below the mirror. My V1 is permanently above left side of the mirror (and can see out the back perfectly).

Perfect! That's exactly where mine is going too! Thanks!

just mounted my V1 in the same spot and added the Savvy unit. Ran the cable under the headliner and tucked it in the pillars rubber trim down to the OBD connection.

This powers the V1 plus mutes alerts when traveling below a pre set speed. (I set it at 35mph)

Interesting. Hadn't heard about the Savvy unit. Going to have have to look into this. Not sure where my OBD port is...

OBD port is under steering wheel.

X5FX,

Thanks. I've ordered the Savvy.

FYI. I find the V1 works better on the left side of the mirror. I have the V1 remote but, having the V1 on left side of mirror attachment, makes it really easy to mute it (when necessary).

So you mean better reception?
why do you think its better?

No, not better reception. As I said, easier to mute when I need to because the main unit is on my side of the mirror.

Do you, or anyone else with a Savvy, have a Concealed Remote? I can't get it to work right. I have just sent Valentine One an email describing the problem but this is basically what I end up with... "My final result is always an “A” on the main unit and various LEDs continuously flickering around on the Remote. Intermittently, the main unit reboots itself. Also, intermittently, all the LEDs flicker on and off for a few minutes on the main unit and the remote."

Is any using the new Savvy add-on with the V1? It's not working for me (forget the Remote).

I am having issues with the Main unit. Every couple of minutes, all the LEDs come on, flicker like crazy, then the Main unit resets. Then it appears to settle down and then repeats this faulty cycle.

Thanks

Works great for me, Ive been using it for several weeks now. Contact Valentine, maybe yours is defective.

Have you checked your FW? Maybe you need an update.

Thanks. I have contacted Valentine; no response today :(

I updated firmware to latest version just a few months ago. Suspect the Savvy or else my model X5 is incompatible...

I've already hard-wired my Escort Redline in my 2004 E46 M3 using the Escort Direct Wire Power Cord, so I bought a 2nd one for my 2011 x35d.

I followed the steps outlined in Post #47, but not matter what I tried, I could not get 12V power from the green/white wire indicated.

So I taped a small section of a paper clip to my voltmeter's probe and started poking around. It didn't take long.

Turns out that Port #3 on the black, 4-port connector supplies 12V of power whenever the X5 is in "accessory mode" or when the engine is running. Coincidentally, this wire is also green with a white stripe.

I was also able to mount the detector to the windshield using the stock Escort dual-suction cup mount in location that does not interfere with the driver-side sun visor nor the BMW OEM Sunshade. Nice!

Also, I didn't dremel a hole into the console like in Post #47. Rather, I did the same thing as on my M3; I merely rant the wire over the rubber grommet that touches the very top of the windshield. No problems at all.

http://img829.imageshack.us/img829/6907/x5radar.th.jpg http://img804.imageshack.us/img804/5...adar001.th.jpg http://img85.imageshack.us/img85/8964/x5radar002.th.jpg http://img546.imageshack.us/img546/7...adar003.th.jpg http://img12.imageshack.us/img12/845/x5radar004.th.jpg http://img201.imageshack.us/img201/8...adar005.th.jpg http://img18.imageshack.us/img18/829/x5radar006.th.jpg http://img819.imageshack.us/img819/7...adar007.th.jpg

Savvy
 

I installed a Savvy adapter with my V1 this weekend and notice that the V1 doesn't power on for a few seconds after the car starts. Is this normal? After it powers on everything works fine, it is just a noticeable delay from when it was plugged into the cigarette lighter.

Thanks for the tip on using the Savvy as I really like the mute at low speed!

Mike

yes, its communicating with the car, this is normal and mentioned in the instructions.

Just added pics to my previous post.

Sorry if this is a repeat question, but how did you remove the trim in front of the reading lights that covers the clips holding the entire housing?

I tried pulling mine from the front but I feel like i'm going to snap it in two.
Did you simply pull yours off? and how much force did you have to use to do it?

Thanks

I realize this is an OLD thread, but in my 2011 E70, I find that same resistance to pulling down the overhead console trim to route the power for my Escort. And like the previous poster, I am reluctant to break some flimsy plastic.

So realizing this is likely a DUMB question, do you pull down from the side closer to the windshield or closer to the sunroof ?

Thank you as always,

ed

No, not a dumb question at all! After removing my cover a few times, I did accidentally break one clip for that flimsy plastic thing but it's not noticeable at all. So instead, now what I do is I target the two big clips which hold the entire console on themselves, instead of first removing that plastic thing.

Everything comes down from the windshield side, and there are two decent sized clips (again on the windshield side) which hold the entire console on. One on each side. So what I do is I get a paint scraper and gently insert it into the edge of the console going in from the windshield side towards the sunroof, until it reaches the clips. The scraper should go in about half an inch or so before hitting the clip. Once you hit the clip, push until you feel the clip become undone. Once you have undone one clip, move onto the next and the entire console will come off with that flimsy piece of plastic attached to it.

P.S.
1) Be sure to use a Plastic paint scraper to avoid ripping the roof lining.
2) When you insert the scraper to undo the clips, keep the scraper pushed up agains the roof or else you will risk popping the flimsy plastic cover off. You have a 50/50 chance of breaking the clips holding the plastic cover on if it is removed in this way.

Hope this helps and feel free to let me know if you have any more questions!

Thanks so much for your detailed reply.
Actually I have a set of plastic trim removal tools so I think I can avoid doing any damage.

I'll be sure to let you know the results.
Thanks again,
Ed