Tow hitch on E70?
 

Did anyone install the tow hitch on their E70? Just came back from the dealer, and I'm a bit disappointed that it does not have the 'hole' for the hitch like my 2002 X5. Sales person checked with the service guys, and they told him that they would have to cut the bumper in the order to install the hitch. They use the kit for the hitch install which, they say, was designed by BMW, so it would look like it was factory made. Anyway, my question is if anybody has the hitch installed, and if you could be kind enough to post some photos. Thanks!

Yeah, the dealer is correct. I have a friend who has the hitch and they cut a hole in his bumper and put some crappy trim piece to cover where they cut his bumper. I wouldn't put the hitch on mine, but that's my opinion. If I need to tow or haul anything, I go to Enterprise and rent a truck.

Craig

Thanks for quick reply. The thing is, I have a 4,500lb boat and I was thinking of getting either X5 diesel or MB GL320 diesel. I test drove both of them on the same day, and to be honest X5 is far superior over GL class. I did not want to get a pickup truck (not my thing) or any of the domestic SUV's, but I need something to tow. Also checked out Toyota Sequoia, and Lexus 570, but to go from BMW to one of those...
:confused:

I've seen a member here who installed a non OEM tow hitch and it looks way better. If I remember it correctly that particular one does not require cutting the bumper cover.

Try and do search.

I've driven the GL and it drove like large station wagon compared to the X5. I don't think the Mercedes diesel has enough power in my opinion. I test drove the diesel in the ML and it was OK around the city, but didn't have enough passing power on the highway. The X5 diesel has plenty of power. I have the diesel X5 and really like it.

Good luck with your decision,

Craig

I installed the hitch receiver on my 2008 X5. It really isn't that difficult. The BMW instructions are on the site here in pdf format, and the only really difficult part is removing rhe rear bumper fascia. That is only difficult because the fasteners are pretty well hidden.

A member here with the screen name "Ranchhand" has posted a good explanation with pictures here:

http://www.xoutpost.com/x5-e70-forum/...a-removal.html

Cutting the bumper fascia is pretty easy, if you have a saber saw or something similar. The factory installation instructions cover that pretty well. I was satisfied with the rear bumper appearance after the trim strip is installed. I believe the factory instructions cover most of the installation fairly well, except for the removal of the rear bumper fascia (already mentioned), and the location of a couple of electrical connectors in the rear cargo compartment.

You do have to have a LOT of patience to take on the job yourself, though. Once you are through, the dealer has to re-code the car computer for the hitch control module, and also bring up the coding to current specs. That took about six hours on my car, which was only about ten months old at the time.

sinX5, I have a few more thoughts that may help if you plan to do the installation yourself.

1. I have seen a couple of non-OEM tow hitch receiver installations. None of them looks anywhere near as nice as the BMW OEM installation. I think you should take a look at some finished products, and decide which ones would be acceptable to you on your X5. To me, the OEM was the only way to go.

2. The OEM kit also includes the wiring harness and a trailer control module. I understand that those are not available except with the OEM hitch kit.

3. If you decide to install the hitch receiver yourself, take a look at ranchhand’s thread. One thing I would suggest is that the reflectors which cover the two mounting bolts are easier to remove than ranchhand suggests. I didn’t use the long screwdrivers as ranchhand suggested. You can just lay down on the garage floor at the back of the X5, and reach up there and release the spring clips. Make sure the car hasn’t been run for some time, so that the exhaust system is cool. You can’t avoid brushing your arm up against it. Your arm has to reach around the exhaust pipe – I found that I had to use my left hand on the left side reflector, and my right hand on the right side reflector, because of the particular curvature needed. Look at ranchhand’s pictures, and just reach up there and locate the spring clips by feel. Squeeze the two spring clips together, and the reflector pops right out! It can be re-installed from the outside by just pressing in place.

4. You will also need the rear bumper fascia trim kit and the ball mount. I ordered those as a package with my hitch kit.

5. You will need a pop rivet installing tool, available at Ace Hardware or similar stores. If you don’t already have one, buying the tool is much cheaper than paying your dealer service department to install the two pop rivets.

6. You will need four of the trim retainers that hold the wheel well trim in place. Those have to be destroyed to remove them, and you will have to install new ones. They are less than $1 each at your dealer’s service department, but order them in advance, because I find that many dealers don’t have them in stock. You also need a large pop rivet installing tool to install those, but once again, you can buy the rivet tool for less than the dealer charges to install the four rivets.

7. The trailer control module is supposed to be installed in a "module carrier" (which the service department refers to as a "module support"). If your X5 already has one or more modules installed in the rear cargo compartment, it will already have a module carrier. If your vehicle doesn’t have a module carrier (mine didn’t), it must be added! That’s a simple job, involving just the module carrier and two plastic nuts. But first, you have to get the module carrier and the two fasteners. My dealer provided those under warranty, at no charge, but I can’t guarantee that your dealer will. Look for the module carrier before you start, and have the dealer order the module carrier and fasteners before you start, if your vehicle doesn’t already have them.

8. Have a torque wrench handy when you install the hitch with the eight new nuts. I installed mine with a socket wrench, just guessing at the 80 foot pounds of torque. When I went back with a torque wrench to check them, I had under-torqued all of them drastically! I torqued them correctly with the torque wrench. That has to be done before the rear bumper fascia is re-installed, because you can’t reach them after that is in place.

9. I wrapped the wiring harness with duct tape (for extra protection, as recommended by the instructions) and labeled all of the wires with a label maker before I started the installation. In that way, all of the wrapping and identification could be done at the work bench in comfort and good light, rather than while straining to reach into the cargo compartment or stretched out under the car.

10. The 3-pin vehicle BUS connector on my X5 was wrapped around the original wiring harness and then wrapped with black electrical tape. That made it pretty hard to locate. If you have problems finding yours, just look for wires of the proper colors, and trace them into the bundle where they are wrapped for protection. The plastic connector was completely hidden by the tape wrap, so that takes some searching. It’s in there, though!

11. All of the wiring harness fits amazingly well. As you are threading the wiring harness around the various obstacles, each push-on connector will like up perfectly with one of the studs already attached to the body of your car. You just push the connector onto the stud. If something doesn’t line up, check to see that you have routed it correctly. Everything fits so well it’s actually a pleasure to install!

12. When you are pushing the wires into the back of the fuse panel, double and triple check to make sure that you have the correct place to plug each wire in. You will need a pair of needle nosed electrical pliers to get the plugs in. They are fairly hard to get in. Again, make sure you are in the right place before you press them in. I’m not sure how you would ever get one of them out if you get it in the wrong place!

13. The biggest problem I encountered was in removing the rear bumper fascia. Ranchhand has identified all of the bolts, and many of the push connectors. But there are some push connectors that are really hard to find. Just go slow to avoid breaking any of the connectors or the plastic pieces they snap into. I can’t offer any better advice on that. I would really like to hear from any other members who have better information on removing the rear bumper fascia.

14. Oh, yeah! After you get the hitch and the wiring harness installed, you have to put the rear bumper fascia back on. Fortunately, that is about one-tenth as much work and trouble, and takes about one-tenth as much time, as did taking the damned thing off!

15. I didn’t get any error codes from the trailer control module after I installed the hitch. However, you will have to have your car computer re-coded by the dealer after the installation. I understand that the hitch control module coding takes less than an hour. That is billable time for the service department. If your car is still under warranty, any other re-coding should be covered by warranty (defect code 72 60 93 02 00, according to the BMW instructions). I was glad that was covered by warranty, because that took six hours on my car!

I’m not as fast as ranchhand or most BMW technicians. The instructions call for 2.5 hours to install this hitch. Ranchhand did it in four hours. It took me longer than that, probably around six hours, although I did it over two days just because I wasn’t in a hurry and was very careful. For that, I saved over $500 and I am confident of the installation.

Besides, I kinda like working on the X5. It’s my Baby!

I am getting my tow hitch installed .. without instllation charge.. I just has to pay for the parts. part of the deal i got ordering the car...

Ok, I finished my install and would like to add my .02 cents worth. THANKS Jim M for you added comments since they helped!

Regarding non-OEM, if you do a search, you will see my comments after doing an exhaustive research. I found that the non OEM REMOVES the ability for you to use the 2 "tow hook" thread locations. Mind you, this is not just for towing the vehicle. This is also used to mount bike racks and other accessories. See my pic and where I point out the location of these tow hook threads.

Also, there is a "bumper support" at the top that looks like a handle. The non OEM's DO NOT have this. I would assume that this prevents the bumper (which is only plastic) from collapsing if someone steps on it to, for example, load something on the roof.

+1 With Jim's comments above, it made it much easier. Also, in Ranchhand's thread, there was one screw that you don't have to remove that holds the heat shield down. However, even if you remove it, there's no harm, no foul.

+1

I actually installed the "removable" ones. I didn't want to bother with the pop rivet tool again and I wasn't sure if the pop rivet tool that I had would work with this plastic. Anyway, I used the same exact trim "removable" trim retainer that is located in the same wheel well located a few inches away from the ones that you have to remove.

My X5 is a March 2008 build. It already had the module carrier. The wiring harness that I had was already wrapped with black electrical tape. So maybe they updated the kit?

I actually found the wiring to have taken me the longest. First, the "3 wire BUS" cable was very well hidden. I took pictures to show you where mine was. At first, I thought that they omitted it! See the pics of these orange and green wires that seem to have been encased in some sort of plastic casing. DO YOU KNOW WHAT THIS IS FOR? I finally found the 3 wire BUS plug and I am pointing to it with my finger.

Also, it was a pain trying to get these pins into the slots. I finally used a small screwdriver to help me drive the pins into the slot. As Jim stated, MAKE SURE YOU ARE PUTTING THEM IN THE RIGHT SPOT.

I got a "AWD 4x4 DSC" error of some sort when I first started the car. But then it went away. Now, I can no longer find it when I try to retrieve any stored error codes.

Lastly, the whole thing took me about 5 hours to install. The biggest time saver for me was the cutting of the bumper. I had a small reciprocating saw that made a real nice precision cut. Also, I didn't use the "exact" template that was shown on the back of the bumper. It seemed like they wanted you to remove more trim than necessary.

Lastly again, I PAINTED the exhaust with a black "grill" paint. It makes it looks tons better...

Lastly lastly again, I took some pictures with and without the black trim.

Finished pics with the black trim piece.

What is the necessity for cutting out the bumper cover on the right side of the receiver? Couldn't you cut out the left side to allow for mounting the wiring connector and then just leave enough room for the receiver and a bit of space for the safety chain?

Not a helpful response, and somewhat off-topic, but: I simply refuse to put a hitch on a bimmer out of principle.

If you need to tow, get Yukon or a Suburban, or a Toyota. Bimmers with tow hitches should be outlawed. :)

To quote Dennis Miller, though, "What the hell do I know?"

Good luck.

Gee, thanks Kaefer. I purchased my current '02 X5 4 years ago to serve as a backup family car as well as a tow vehicle for my race cars. I believe it to be the ultimate tow vehicle for me. With a rig weighing just over 3k pounds I can cruise in luxury and comfort at over 80mph and get 13mpg with the 4.4L. Just ordered a new 35d last night to replace the '02 in the same role. See you at the track.

I like Dennis a lot.

Funny you ask... I argued with myself over and over on that one. After doing some "visioning" of how the bumper would look, it just wouldn't look symmetrical at all if I just cut "just enough" material to the left and to the right of the hitch. In fact, I tried it that way first... It didn't look right. Thus, I cut the rest out...

Well, thanks to help of this thread, I installed my X5 (factory) hitch this evening. I started around 5:30 PM, and finished about 10:00 PM. Granted, I ate dinner, watched some TV, answered e-mails, etc... I could have done it in about 4 hours had I worked straight through. Now, if I help someone next time, I bet it only takes about 2 hours!

My biggest PITA was getting the bumper cover to unsnap from the clips (I wasn't tugging hard enough). My second PITA was getting the wires into the fuse panel. You need to line them up perfectly, and then push them until they "snap" with a thin and narrow screwdriver.

Oh, I apparently left my rivet tool at the track, so I need to get a new one tomorrow. My dealer is going to flash my computer for $100 later this week.

It's not a difficult job, but you need some technical know-how, and some electrical experience.

I'll be towing my Boxster Spec Racer on an open trailer. :thumbup:

Thanks to EVERYONE who posted here!

- Mike

My dealer wants $270 to flash the computer.
This after buying a $60k car.
Got to find another dealer.

The tow hitch is also a good tool for those that live in a metro city and need to guard against a little bump and grind parking on the street. I'd rather use the tow hitch than the bumper guard

Good idea! This should do the trick.

GO RHINO 36" Hitch Step Bumper Guard - BLACK:eBay Motors (item 200329440055 end time Aug-06-09 04:50:55 PDT)

Do you really need to have the electronics flashed? A user on this board seems to workaround that issue by disconnecting the battery during the install... confused a bit now.


http://www.xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-foru...7-3-0-e70.html

Opinions vary. If you install it and the lights don't work, then you know you need to reflash it. If you get an error code, or the PDC cancel doesn't work, get it flashed.

I learned today when you have BMW flash the computer, you get a zoom feature on the camera with 2 markings showing 4" and 8" from the tip of the tow hitch.
Awesome feature for backing up to the trailer!!

Installed my hitch on my new 35d over the weekend.
Many thanks to Ranchhand for his excellent photos outlining the bumper cover removal.

The installation was quite easy actually, easier that the E53. Took time to do the cutout and went for the asymmetrical method. Sprayed the muffler and lip behind the hitch with high heat flat black paint. Well worth the 15 minutes of work as it hides all of the mechanicals visible through the cutout.

5 plastic rivets will need to be replaced as they are destroyed in the process. 4 in the wheel wells and one in the right rear storage tray. No problem driving without them but will replace in short order.

Hooked up the battery on completion and attached to the trailer. Typical DSC error codes on restart. Spin the steering wheel lock to lock and they go away, just like on the E53. No other codes. Everything works except for the brake lights. Guess I should expect to have to spend a couple of hundred dollars for reprogramming from a manufacturer that charges $1,000 for the comfort access "option" that should be standard on a $61k car.

Generally, very happy with the hitch and the X5. Handles like a sports car next to my E53. Very neutral with lots of stick, even with the Bridgestone runflats.

Edit:

FYI - The dealer I bought the car from wanted $270 to reprogram the computer. Another local dealer said it was a 1.5 hour job @$135/hour = $205. The third dealer quoted me $119. That's not unreasonable. Guess who got my business?

Thanks

Does anyone have the details on the wiring scheme for the hitch wiring kit?

Thanks again.

See my post # 27 here, and yes you do need to get the electronics flashed for the E70.

http://www.xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-foru...riences-3.html

Holy thread revival!

Someone linked to this thread the other day so I went ahead and linked what I had written up in another thread. That's all. If people would do a 1 minute search instead of posting the same questions over and over and over and over again it would be much better, but that's wishful thinking at best.

Someone is familiar with the internetz... :D

I am getting prepared to install trailer hitch on my 2010 x5. Does anyone know the part number for the 4 trim retainers (plastic rivets) (on the wheel well) that we must replace? Thanks.

I think I found the part number for the expanding rivet, 51-77-7-171-004.

Super-helpful thread and pictures. Made getting the rear bumper cover off easy. Thanks! :thumbup:

Installed the hitch on my 2010 E70 today...the threads here were very helpful.

Here are my observations...

The harness had 3 connectors that I could not find a home for...

1 - prewired brake controller - will be used once I connect my Tekonsha brake controller

2 – comfort access antenna base (near the hitch) – car does not have this option

3 – comfort access antenna (2pin connector, in the fuse area) – car does not have this option

The USB bus was overlooked on my part initially, but found the 3pin connector in the loom just under the tail light…

Overall, it took me 4.5 hours to complete…

HOWEVER, I am getting a restraint system warning on my NAV informing me that either the (airbag, belts or belt tensioner) is not operational. Not sure what this could be…

Will be talking the car to the dealer for troubleshooting and will the car reprogrammed for the trailer hitch…

NEXT, figure out how to connect the Tekonsha Prodigy P2 (carried over from my E53). It has four wires…one will go to the trailer harness brake controller connector (option noted above). However, the harness has four wires so I need to figure out which wire to connect to the brake controller…

Dropped the car off at the dealer today to get the SW integration level upgraded for the hitch.

The car is a 2/2010 build but has even older SW. The dealer showed me that it will take up to 6 hours to complete - this was based on the estimated time that the computer showed. I was shocked to see this...

They quoted me 2 hours labor time for the update...

Anyhow, I was offered a loaner so that I could head to work. Will know more details later this afternoon...

Electronics or DME crashed while uploading the latest BMW integration level SW. OUCH!!!!

The dealer has ordered some new parts to address and reload. Heading to the dealer now to get long-term loaner...more details shortly.

Anyone else experiance a similar issue?

Yes, do a search, it isn't unknown.

Apart from the trailer wiring problem, which forces the issue, some want the latest software just because it is the latest, and others want to avoid the risk of changing something that is working just fine, in the search for something better. It shouldn't crash, but it has happened. Also, the time quoted is not unreasonable.

They crashed my 2010 during the update as well. They had to replace a computer, took 3 days to get it

They had to keep mine over the weekend, when installing an iPod module. Said it was a programming issue and it took longer than expected. I was surprised, but maybe it is more common.
I wonder if it is inexperienced techs or just how it is.

That only happens when they flash all modules in the car with the latest daten files. It does give you added functionality. My voice recognition worked way better after.

If you just want to enable the tow bar, a coder can easily modify the FA vehicle order to add the retrofit code for the tow bar.

Stopped by the dealer, they contacted BMW NA and got some feedback. Were applying the update for the 3rd time this afternoon with guidance from BMW NA. It was around 70% at that time and was further ahead than the previous attempts. Crossing my fingers, but will know more tomorrow.

All squared away. Got the car back today. Latest SW installed...

German Dealer Hitch Install
 

Just returned from the German dealer, whose team installed the U.S. towing system for the first time - at least according to the service rep in charge. The rep said the guys in Munich didn't even think this setup was possible, and he produced the U.S. manuals and hardware lists (provided in this forum) showing it certainly was!

I was warned about this dealership being very "by the book," and in proper German fashion, they followed the factory install specs exactly. So I have the brake controller in the console, and the sticker above the bumper cutout. I've read several related threads, and some folks see the OEM setup as ugly. Maybe I'm too functionally-focused or too easy going, but I don't think it wrecks the appearance.

The best news was they charged about same as the local European hitch install, which doesn't require the brake controller or larger wiring harness, or the same firmware, so I was out the door for about U.S. $760.

I just installed the hitch and wiring on my 2007 X5 and now I have a PDC fault. Anyone have this issue? I'm hoping I just unplugged one of the sensors but it is too late to pull the bumper off and look tonight.

This thread was very helpful!

Mike

The hitch install doesn't cause a PDC fault.

Not reconnecting a PDC sensor after you reinstall the bumper does. Start there.

I just installed the hitch on my 09 x5 and after I got an "increased battery discharge warning"

I'm nearly 100% certain everything is correct, the comfort access still works properly, and all there was, was the module which was connected right, the fuses which are all in the right places, and the 3 pin BUS connector which was connected right.

I'm wondering if this warning is just because I've been unplugging the battery, and running the radio while I was installing the physical hitch part and it drained battery, or if it is just because it hasn't been coded yet, or if something is somehow shorting? I drove around for 5 miles today and the warning didn't go away...

UPDATE: warning went away today finally so I think all is fine. Question about coding, some people on here say that you just need to get the code added, others say the whole computer needs to be reflashed? I asked my BMW dealer and they quote 2.5 hrs at 180/hr. Seems a little pricey to spend 450 to add this code when I probably could have got it installed for close to that? A independent shop can add the code for 100, but i'm wondering if that will be good enough and if I will still get the added zoom options etc.

Just wondering if anyone have a dealership install an OEM hitch and how much did you paid?

2012 Custon OEM install
 

From the lead of SoCal M3 in another forum, I installed the OEM hitch, which I customized, as SoCal did, by cutting off the turn signal brake receptacle, turned it about 90 degrees, then welded it bac onto the hitch. I then took the LCI trim bracket and cut it an rewelded it such I used just a small arc to cover above he hole I cut. A very tight, clean look. However, it requires you to get on your back to put the receiver retainin pin and to plug in the trailer lighting receptacle. Since I use the hitch to pull a trailer less than 10 times a year, I can live with that inconvienence. See pics.

Dealer coded for the hitch after I installed it.

Following up, now that I've actually towed the trailer. The only real issue was the X5 giving a "check trailer brake light" error on the iDrive display. The trailer brake lights did not work at all, regardless of whether the X5's master light switch was on or off. Others in this forum report this problem on 2010/2011 models.

The local service rep couldn't tell if the German dealer had correctly installed the correct towing firmware version, so he reflashed it, under warranty. Now it only shows this error briefly when plugging in the trailer umbilical, but the brake system functions normally.

Trailer is about 3700 lbs loaded, and the X5 handles it beautifully. Towing mileage on a 400 mile trip was just 15.3 MPG, but with a bad 25 MPH headwind. I expect it can get 17 MPG, based on others' towing experience.