DIY: Changing Oil & Filter in a 35d - new pics added
 

Tools Required:
17 mm socket w/ a breaker bar
1 1/4" socket w/ ratchet & short torque wrench. Its probably 32mm but I'm to cheap to buy metric sockets above 24mm :(
Long thin screw driver (approx 12in) - optional

Supplies:
8 Qts OEM Oil - Castrol SLX Professional OE 5W-30
1 OEM Filter kit w/ large oil filter cap O ring and small brass drain pan washer
1 empty 1 qt Yogurt container or 1 lb coffee can

Procedure:
1 - Warm up the engine to operating temp

Underneath-
2- Remove the ROUND plastic cover form the aluminum stiffener plate. You just press in on driver's side and it will hang straight down. But you can completely remove it by unhooking the other side to make it easier if you are not on a lift.
3- Position a min. 8 qt drain pan (a 10-12qt drain pan is much better) under the 17mm drain plug (AKA drain bolt) which drains straight down.
4- Remove the 17mm drain plug. It has nearly an inch of threads. So your fingers will get pretty hot unless you take a break mid way.
5- Let the engine drain. Keep the drain OPEN while you change the filter, because the filter canister holds an additional quart that does not appear to drain into the oil pan until you remove the filter

In the Engine compartment-.
6- Remove the plastic air tube on the drivers side (US) of the engine. This just clips off. But it helps to remove the front first. Then use a long thin screw driver to unhook the left under side clips BEFORE you unclip the easy ones to the upper right. These clips are symmetrical. Two on the upper right and two just like them on the lower left.
7- Unscrew the plastic oil filter cap using the 1 1/4" socket and ratchet. Unscrewing the cap is easier with a ratchet because the cap is connected to a long plastic 'cage' that goes through the paper oil filter. Even though the large O ring clears the housing pretty quickly there are two more small O rings at the bottom of the cage that remain 'engaged' until you completely unscrew the cap.
8 - Pull up the filter cap just a little and wait until the housing drains. Other wise the filter will be full of oil and make a mess on the second urea filler fitting.. Don't ask how i know :)
9- After the housing and filter has had a little time to drain, quickly pull the cap/filter/cage assembly out of the canister and into the empty coffee can.

At your workbench-
10- Remove the filter from the cap/cage assembly and clean the plastic parts.
11- Remove the old O ring and Install the new one. Its easier if you do this over the top of the cap
12- Install the filter over the cage until you hear it snap into place.

Back in the engine compartment-
13- Insert the Oil Filter/Cap/Cage assembly and hand tighten.
14- Use the 1 1/4" socket and ratchet to seat the O rings. Stop as soon as it meets any resistance.
15- Switch to the short torque wrench set to 25 Nm (roughly 220 in/lbs). It will probably click almost immediately. IMHO BMW marked the plastic cap at 25Nm to keep mechanics from over tightening this plastic cap.

Back underneath-
16- Clear away the drain pan and clean up any mess.
17- If the previous brass washer has stuck to the oil pan, remove it.
18- Install the drain plug with the new brass washer and tighten it 'snugly'. Snugly to me is pretty tight using a 3/8 Craftsman breaker bar. But your definition is as good as mine.
19- Replace the plastic cover.

Back in the engine compartment-
20- Fill the engine with 7 quarts of oil. Be sure to check the oil level with the dipstick. At 7 quarts the dipstick should show FULL.
21- Start the engine and let it idle a few minutes to fill the oil filter canister.
22- Shut off the engine and let it rest a few minutes before checking the oil using the dip stick which should show 1 qt low.
23- Fill till it reaches the full mark (should require 1 more quart). DO NOT OVERFILL. Diesel engines can self destruct if over filled. It is better to be a little too low than a little too full.
24- Replace the plastic air tube.
25- Run the engine for a few minutes and check for leaks.
26- If there are no leaks, you are entitled to a beer (or maybe more depending on the size of the mess you made) :)

Funf Dreisig

p.s. the picture of the new and old filters shows why BMW prints the oil filter part number in yellow :)

Edit: Added pics of air tube and the oil filter housing. The gray stuff over the filter housing that looks like cast aluminum in the pic is actually flexible foam rubber sound deadening material.

Excellent write-up, many thanks as I plan to do this is the next week or two!

FYI, I found that the petrol engine drain plug torque is 18 ft-lbs for a 17 mm plug(according to Pelican parts). But with that much thread, it would seem stripping it is probably not that much of a risk. Interestingly, I found that a 17 mm oil drain plug on a Mazda specifies 25 ft-lbs, 33 ft-lbs on a NSX, and a 17 mm plug on a Porsche is 37 ft-lbs. Quite a range!

Did you use ramps or a lift, or did you find enough room without? I have a sloping driveway, so I find I can back vehicles in, pull forward onto ramps, and end-up with the vehicle level.

Very nice, thank you.

The "oil pan" on the 35d is not sheet metal. It looks like cast iron but is probably a strong light alloy. And as you say with that much thread it would be hard to strip a 17mm bolt with a standard length 3/8 breaker bar. The plug was only "snug' from the factory. It easily broke loose with a light tug using the same breaker bar. BTW I use a breaker bar instead of a ratchet simply to make it easier to feel/judge the force required to remove & replace a bolt.

I'm still building the 3 bay garage. The CFO has suggested that putting in a 2 post lift before installing the windows and doors is maybe a bit premature. Heaven knows I would not want the CFO thinking I would do anything prematurely :yikes:

So I used 4 home made wooden "ramps" which raise a vehicle a whopping 3 inches. But this little extra height makes it so I can lay on my side instead of on my back. The "ramps" are simply scrap 2x12s cut with a 45 degree bevel at staggered lengths and screwed together from the TOP. A 4 wheel drive vehicle can drive up on them without pushing them forward. The only trick is not driving off the other side :)

FWIW this is one of the areas where you can actually feel & hear the "turbo lag" when coupled with an automatic. The 35d really revs up to be able to drive up a 1.5" high 45 degree "hill". By comparison our old 3.0L manual PathFinder gets up on these ramps without any high reving engine drama.

Funf Dreisig

Edit: added picture of filthy X5 wheel on a magnificently hand crafted X5 35d oil change lift. The gray block is not screwed down. I used it to form the ramp for the rear tires and then placed it 'behind' the front tires because the pitiful excuse for a parking brake on ALL E70 X5s does not actually hold the vehicle stationary where you apply the brake.

BTW this front wheel has been driven 4001 miles and only washed three times by the cheapest laser car wash option. And some of those miles were towing a couple of tons of sand, etc.. We don't baby our work truck :)

Why BMW shouldn't have removed the dipstick from engines...


I changed the oil in the diesel today after 1300 miles (Many thanks for the DIY). Forgot to check the dipstick before changing the oil.

Measured what drained-out, and it was seven quarts. Put seven quarts in, ran the engine a bit, and the dipstick says it is down a little less than one quart.

Electronic oil level display says it is at MAX. Since it doesn't hurt to run the engine a bit one quart low, I drove around a little, maybe 10 miles total, with a coupe of stops. Electronic level gauge still says MAX, dipstick still says almost a quart low.

I suspect the electronic oil level uses some sort of averaging strategy so as to not give false readings when not on the level, but I wonder how long it would take for the oil level indicator to realize the oil level is not at MAX, but almost at MIN. I also wonder if that nice oil level bar is really a "bar," which shows oil level, or just a graphic and the actual oil level readings are either "MAX" or "MIN."

Anyone ever seen an electronic oil level reading in the display between MIN and MAX?

Our 35d was 1/2 quart low when i changed the oil. In fact, it had been about that low for a couple of weeks while I found the time and got the supplies together. The electronic oil level "meter' showed it FULL the whole time. IMO the oil level' bar graphic' is the fancy equivalent of what we used to call an "IDIOT light"* IOW it is either on or off (AKA Max or Min) :(

FWIW I'm guessing the oil level sensor is that plastic black box on the outside of the oil pan near the drain plug. If so, is that thing sensing the oil level remotely THROUGH the oil pan? Or is there another hole in that oil pan plugged with a plastic coated probe :yikes:

Funf Dreisig

* BTW I still do.

Well, I drove it around about 45 minutes in the country with it down almost a quart and lo and behold, after about 30 minutes of driving the oil level indicator dropped to where it was just above the MIN marker, about 1/8 of the way to the MAX marker. So... I guess it does provide some level indication, but must use an average of some longer time or miles to avoid false readings.

Yup, that's the sensor and it does go through another hole in the oil pan, at least if it's the same as on the petrol engines...

Oil Change
 

Does anyone know what the Castrol Syntec equivalent is to the OEM Castrol SLX Professional OE 5W-30? What I mean to say is, are we alright to use Syntec, or is the SLX professional one in the same?

Thanks for the help!

I don't know. BUT...
IMHO this is NOT where I would try to save a little cash. I bought my oil, filter etc. from my BMW dealer. If there is ever any question about whether I used the right oil, filter, etc. I can show them the invoice.

FWIW I am very conscious of anything that could possibly give a dealer or BMW an excuse not to honor the warranty. On our old E53 I installed a 3rd party battery. But I ended up having to replace it with a BMW battery a year later. Not because it was defective, but because the dealer would not even attempt to repair an electrical issue under warranty, unless the battery was a BMW approved part. :(

Funf Dreisig

Thanks for the advice. Definitely not trying to just save a few bucks. I merely want to drop the oil and filter at 9000K KM - which is halfway to the 18000K KM that the dealer will do it.

There is no way of them knowing that I even changed the oil - which is what I would prefer. If I buy oil /filter from them and something goes wrong with the engine, could they not also say that it was due to the fact that I worked on the engine?

I want my intermediate oil change completely under the radar if possible. This will avoid any issues/questions about liability down the road while under warranty I think.

On that note, I presume as long as Syntec meets the specifications, it should be suitable.

Good point.

IIRC Penguin got his oil and filter online through getBMWparts.com which handles BMW OEM parts via Tischer BMW. This could give you the best of both worlds. The 'approved' oil and filter, with minimal connection to your dealership.

Funf Dreisig

LL-04 is the specification required. If it doesn't state that on the container, it should not be used if you want to comply with the OEM specification.

The engine holds 8 quarts with a fillter change, period.

You guys have too much time on your hands. :)

For me, this is a job for the dealer while I'm out jogging or cycling. Plus, the dealer can check some of the other stuff that helps keep the vehicle healthy while they are at it.

Tischer (getbmwparts.com) has a special on an oil change kit right now. The parts manager there says it's the same kit as a 335d (same engine, right?).
getBMWparts.com powered by Tischer BMW - Your #1 Source for all OEM BMW Parts/Accessories!

EDIT: And free shipping!

Is the part number for the filter 11427788460?

Good catch.

The part number of the filter my dealer sold me was 11427788460. But as you can see in the OP photos, the part number of the filter that was in my 35d was 11427788461. The photos show that they are the same size and design. Hopefully they are the same part with different numbers :dunno:

Funf Dreisig

It is often worth checking on the actual differences in filters that have the same dimensions but different part numbers. The part could have simply been changed up, due to a product update. However, it could also be that the different part numbers have different filter media, with different micron ratings (the size of particle that can pass through the filter media). I don't know that this is the difference on these two BMW filters, but it does happen on other filter brands I work with.

I would ask the dealer to confirm the difference between the two filters, to ensure that one is a direct replacement for the other.

I'm checking on this with the Tischer Internet Parts Manager. Stay tuned...

:iagree: But I hadn't noticed the different part numbers until jaaX3 pointed it out today :(

FWIW 11427788461 is 'not found' when doing a part number search on realOEM.com or getBMWparts.com. But 11427788460 is found and shows as the correct part for both the 35d and 335d.

Hopefully jaaX3 can get to the bottom of this with Tischer.

Funf Dreisig

If the battery was the same specs. as the BMW battery that behavior is illegal in all 50-states. A simple filing in small claims court would have won you damages. It's extraordinarily difficult to void a warranty in this country. I've written about this many times (search my threads).

You can do whatever you want to your car, within reason, without fear of voiding the warranty. Don't let some BMW tech with a junior college degree (if that) tell you what you can and can't do with your vehicle. You can put any brand of oil in the car, any brand of filter, etc. As long as it meets factory specs or exceeds factor specs., you're WELL within your rights.

In court, these cases are notoriously losing propositions for dealers and factories and they'll back down 99.9% of the time with a stern letter, within an amazingly quick time. They know, and are well aware, of what they can and what they cant, get away with. That doesn't mean they don't try to get away with pushing people around like this all day long. It makes them money, lots of money, which is why when these types of cases end up in front of a judge there are often large punitive damages awarded.

Don't let your dealer push you around like that. You're entitled to buy a battery of your choice, and if it exceeds factory specs so much the better.

If my dealer pulled that with me, I'd file a claim against them the next day in small-claims and refuse to settle, just to piss them off.

That's B.S. and the laws on this matter are as clear and in plain language as can be, for a reason.

I'm sure lots of lawyers lurk these boards and will be happy to add more.

Use whatever oil you want as long as it meets or exceeds factory recommended specs your fine. You need not use the same brand or a genuine BMW filter. That's ludicrous!

FWIW, two things:

(1) The "1" part number seems to overwhelmingly show up on foreign language sites, not English, and,

(2) The two filter cross reference tables to non OEM filters both showed the "1" and the "0" BMW OEM filter cross-referencing to a single non-OEM filter, i.e., these two filter manufacturers consider the BMW 11427788461 and BMW 11427788460 to be the same filter for replacement purposes.

I don't disagree with anything you say (at least for those who live in the US, as the rest of the world doesn't have the Magnuson-Moss Act). However, implicit in your post is the assumption that the battery referenced above does meet the same specs. It may not have.

Oil is easy to meet the manufacturer's specs for. BMW publishes requirements for oil, and API SL or SM usually meets those specs. No manufacturer will require that you use their own oil. The one caution I would throw out is in regard to filters, your last example. BMW can't require you to use a BMW filter. However, they can require you to use a filter that meets the same specs, and those specs aren't published. That means that you may end up having to fight with BMW (or any other manufacturer) about a warranty claim if BMW believe it was caused by your aftermarket filter, and you don't agree. The safest is to simply use a BMW oil filter and air filter, or be prepared for a potential fight if in fact you have a failure that can in some way be related to the aftermarket filter. There aren't a lot of failures caused by filters these days, but I would put filters in a slightly higher risk category than batteries and oil (which essentially have no risk, given the ready availability of published specs).

Just my $0.02

That good to hear :)

BTW when you changed your oil was your original oil filter a 11427788461 or 11427788460?

Funf Dreisig

Oddly enough, I didn't compare the part number to the old filter when I took it out, but just did a visual comparison. However I did check online to see if the part number was right, so I expect it was the "0" that realoem and bavauto show, as those are two places I checked for confirmation and if they had been different, I would have noticed. (bavauto.com shows 11 42 7 788 460)

In regards to the 2 oil filter part numbers, the Internet Parts Manager from Tischer BMW writes:
I'll order a kit soon.

Oil analysis results for those that are interested

The Tischer parts manager is right. The part number of the FILTER is 11427788461 the part number of the kit w/ the filter, etc is 11427788460. And the proof has been in the OP all this time :wow:

Look at the picture of the old and new filters side by side. It's hard to read yellow on white but the part number on both filters is 11427788461. BTW the part number on the new filter is upside down. The last few digits are closest to the camera.

Funf Dreisig

Doh!

Reminds me of the time I bought my first oil filter for the 2008 Ford Taurus. The part number listed was FL-400-SB12. The FL-400 filter was commonly available, but I assumed the "SB12" suffix was a variant of the FL-400 filter, since the Taurus engine was in it's first-year update. After much searching I finally discovered that the "FL-400-SB12" was a bit of a mistake in the manual, and the "SB12" meant it was the part number for a box of 12 FL-400 oil filters.

Doh!

:thumbup: Your eyes (or monitors) are better than mine.

For tired eyes :)

Funf Dreisig

p.s. jaaX3's post made me go back and look at the full resolution version of this photo and realize I already had the evidence :)

FD, thanks so much for this write-up. I did order the kit from Tischer (got the kit a couple of weeks ago), and I did the oil change a little while ago. It is a super easy oil change with your directions. With a little more experience, I don't see this taking more than 20 minutes or so. I have a 12qt oil catcher which worked well. I'll need to find an oil drop-off place. The drain plug wasn't too difficult to remove (reinstalled at about 28nm), and neither was the filter cover (reinstalled at 25nm). I did put in the full 8 quarts and ran an errand and both the computer & dipstick read full. The engine also feels a little smoother after the change, and seems to rev/accelerate a little better (could be all in my mind, but she does have fresh blood now). Thanks again for the superb write-up.

How can you even write that?

It's common knowledge that vehicles run more smoothly after a fresh oil and filter change; go faster and get better mpg after a fresh wash & hand detail. Not to mention that their owners get taller and better looking, causing members of the opposite sex to check them out at stop lights :rolleyes:

Funf Dreisig

Maybe it is all psychological, but from riding a collection of m'cycles for 46 years,
I really do think they all run "better, smoother", etc., after an oil change; especially
my air cooled HDs. But, it could be psycho induced...:D

I also get that feeling. While logically I know it almost certainly is not true, I get that "feeling" nevertheless. Still, no denying what one "feels," it's probably like those optical illusions, where you know the line is straight, but your mind says it is curved.

However, there may be some small truth in the case of air-cooled motorcycle engines. With those, you get to hear a lot of the internal sounds, and often air-cooled high RPM engines lose more viscosity than typical water-cooled lower RPM automobile engines. Even more so when you consider most motorcycles share engine oil with the transmission gears. So you are essentially, in many cases, putting a thicker oil into the motorcycle engine when you change oil (and transmission in most cases, since most MC engines share engine and transmission oil). This can quiet the engine and tranny a bit, e.g., gear rattle in neutral, etc.

Years ago, Golden Spectrol brand MC oil played this game a bit by formulation their oils to be on the very thick end of the SAE viscosity ranges, and then getting testimonials from MC riders about how much better their engine/transmission sounded when they used GS oil.

But, as Ard said, it is mostly, if not all, in my/your head.

OT...good points Penguin.
Ah, we all loved GS oil, and many of us still ran after the higher viz range was found out. My Hondas do have the same oil circ for engine & trans, but my HDs run separate trans fluids; maybe due to their age, but the HDs really seem to run smoother with fresh oil. Conversely, my Hondas seem to shift more smoothly with new oil, though both have abundant power vs.
the HDs, so the engine diff is not noticeable.
All good for discussion.

I would not look forward to a diesel X5 oil change or, air filter change.
All you diesel guys deserve an award from BMW for your early adopter status and leap of faith!
Good Luck, mD

I've changed it once, and it really isn't too bad. They only thing I did different, was that I found it easier to remove the engine cover to access the oil filter, rather than the air intake tube. Either way gives access to the oil filter; however, removing the intake tube, as in FunfDreisig's procedure, may provide better/easier access to the filter.

I feel sorry for those without a dipstick and have to either (a) depend on the electronic level measurement and/or (b) take the oil capacity on faith and just put in the specified amount with no physical check. I like the ability to double-check things.

I've got a new filter (long one), but how to screw off the cap? what kind of tools do I need? thanks


Ran.

FunfDreisig's procedure at the start of this thread tells you, e.g., 1 1/4 inch socket or 32 mm. I splurged and bought a set of large metric sockets at Sears to get the 32 mm. Probably unnecessary, since 1 1/4 inch = 31.75 mm.

If you do as I do and take off the engine cover instead of the intake tube, you also need a long extension for the socket wrench. If you take off the intake tube, you may not need the extension.

Awesome write up.

Is there anyway to make this a sticky?

I was able to remove the filter cover just fine with a crescent wrench.

I once replaced a snowmobile starter rope in the Antarctic using only a beer can opener...


Check the sixth message down in this link:

M52 Oil Leaking near filter HELP! [Archive] - E46Fanatics

DIY-oil filter housing seal - Bimmerforums - The Ultimate BMW Forum


I'd stick with the socket myself, just in case.

Socket for diesel oil filter removal
 

I just bought a Lisle 14700 socket from amazon. <---- This one for BMW Diesel

It is a 32mm six point 3/8" drive socket specially designed for oil filter canisters. It's inexpensive, low-profile, and most importantly it is designed to not round off the corners of the plastic filter housing. Oddly, it is marketed as being just for the GM Ecotec 2.2, but it fits fine on my X5 35d's filter housing.


I've been using its big brother, a Lisle 14500 (36mm) with fine results for years on my Volvo. I think it may also fit some petrol BMWs.

I know this thread is old, but just wanted FD to know its usefulness lives on. I did my 2011 X35D's oil change yesterday and it was quite easy, except for the (my fault) challenge of not having a large enough oil pan on hand. Not that it took me by surprise; I had 3 or 4 yogurt etc containers on hand but there was still a little mess. As I have rubber matting on my garage floor cleanup was easy.

I also used the Lisle 14700 and it worked great, thanks Comedian. Came in in one day using Amazon prime (even tho I didn't pay for 1 day).

I was able to put in 7.75 quarts before getting a full reading, both on the stick and the e-gauge. Maybe the small discrepancy is due to the car not being perfectly level (I used the same wooden 'ramps' that FD did, having already made a pair a few years ago. Simple to make and very useful, recommend to all). I also have store-bought ramps that raise the car about 8" but I don't use these for oil changes.

Thanks FD!

For those that want a part number for the oil, from BMW's Operating Fluids PDF dated January 2013...

4.0 Diesel Engine Oil Requirements and Specifications
The BMW approved motor oil for the diesel powered 335d and the X5 xDrive35d as announced in Service Information
bulletins B00 04 08 and B00 05 08 is the "low-ash" synthetic Castrol SLX Professional OE SAE 5W-30. This oil is
available through BMW via the virtual warehouse with Castrol under part number 07 51 0 037 195 (1 qt. bottle).

And it goes on in Section 5 Engine Oil Change Intervals to state...

E70 X5 3.0D:
The oil change interval has been slightly reduced with an average baseline distance of 11,000 miles.
Use only "low-ash" synthetic oils such as Castrol SLX Professional OE SAE 5W-30. This oil will be available at BMW
centers soon. Oil information also appears on a label in the engine compartment as a reminder.

EDIT: and here's a note from ISTA/D in regards to consequences of not running low ash oil.

Thanks FunfDreisig!
I have 2 suggestions. The first is to purchase a magnetic drain plug. For whatever reason, BMW doesn't provide these from the factory. Maybe it's a means to shorten the life of the engine so you buy another car or use their service to fix your engine? :) I didn't even get a magnetic drain plug on my M6 but it has one now. The other suggestion I have is to pour a quart of oil in the filter housing after you replace the drain plug. The sooner you can get oil to the filter, the less time your engine will run after start-up without oil. I know the housing drains into the oil pan but when I poured the quart in, a few inches of oil remained in the bottom of the housing. It can't hurt anything so even if it doesn't help I did it anyway.

I have seen that on the electronic indicator on my M6 but haven't had the X5 long enough to see that yet if it does occur. Just changed my oil on the X5 and put in 7 quarts and my electronic graph shows Max but on the dipstick it's half-way between min & max.

Mine took 8.5 qts to reach max with a brand new filter. 7 is not enough for the X5

The electronic gauge did eventually show a little less than max so I added 3/4 quart and it went to max.

Here's the torque spec of the oil drain plug. (25nm)

http://i.imgur.com/dJl2nYI.png?1

I have not seen any level between MIN and MAX on my 8/2011 X5 35d. My oil level did go directly from MAX to MIN three times before I checked the oil (the diesel has a dipstick) and added a liter. I had completed 13 hours straight of driving and several short trips with nary a problem. Over the next couple of days and a dozen trips or so I started getting the level warnings, three of them.

I, like others, lament about the lack of a dipstick on modern BMW engines and maybe that's living in the past, being sappy or just nostalgic but they could have at least provided an electronic level indicator with some resolution or granularity. Instead we got a cheaply implemented level switch. Couple that with the absence of an oil pressure gauge and a complete lack of ANY temperature meter and you have the makings of a disaster.

The electronic oil level indicator on our E83 shows multiple levels between min and max, always has. I'd still like a dipstick, but the gauge has worked well.

Changed the oil myself today on our 2010 X5 diesel following the instructions. Easy peasy. Thank you Funf Dreisig!

Great instructions !!!
 

Your instructions were the best I've read in a long time. Thank you for such detailed instructions. I performed the oil change with a perfect score. I just have 1 question that is related. As soon as I finished with the oil change I went refilled the diesel exhaust fluid tanks. (there is one refill port on the RH and another on the LH) the port on the RH (passenger side) was almost full but the one on the LH (drivers side) took 3 liter bottles to fill. Is this normal for 1 side to consume so much more than the other side? This is my first time changing the oil and doing mntc to this car. I just bought it for my wife 5 months ago.

There is an active and a passive urea tank. Fluid is transferred from the passive tank to the active tank where urea from the active tank is then injected into the exhaust stream. By design, the active tank is kept full by this transfer process. As long as there is fluid in the passive tank, that is. The passive tank is large and is constantly being consumed by the transfer process. The fill port for the active tank is on the right side of the vehicle and passive tank fill port is on the left side.

where do i get the oil?

What type of oil? Amazon, your local dealership, Walmart, local auto parts store or speed shop, Tischer BMW, AV Lubricants . . .

I know that I mean what's the best oil to use I've looked at a few forums and I don't know which one is best.. I know the recommended, although I can't find that either. So what do y'all use and what's the best oil to use? I was gonna start using Mobil 1.. But I read somewhere 5-30 esp is to thin for our engine

Just go to dealer or find the OEM diesel one online. Not worth the minimal savings.
If you have a friend or someone you know that works in automotive, they can get you the OEM oil at cost from the dealer. My brother is so i get 8 qt for around $55.

I use Mobil 1 ESP Formula 5W30 and I buy it at AV Lubricants.

How often should the oil be changed in a 35d?

Dealer says every 10k miles but i do it every 7500, some people do it around 5000. I think 7500 is a save bet, thats what im going with in my 35d.
I used Pennzoil Euro L 5w30.

Just changed from the last of my cases of BMW SLX/OE oils to...

Mobil 1 ESP 5w-30; BMW OE filters

roughly 7k intervals

Just did an oil change on my 8/2011 35d. The oil filter canister lid is 32mm. I couldn't get 1 1/4" socket on there but I had a 32mm one kicking around for some reason.

Oil level was right below the MAX mark on the dipstick before the drain with oil temperature around 81-84C. The oil level page on the iDrive monitor was at MAX.

I pit a little less than 7 Liters of oil back in. With oil temperature around 75-78 and after about eight miles of driving, oil level was below the MAX line around 7/8 and the iDrive displayed a level representative of that level. I will continue checking it.

Drained Mobil 1 ESP 5W30 and put in BMW TwinPower Turbo 5W30. Before these I used the Castrol EDGE Professional OE 5W30.

Same here, I think bmw techs do not have the time to wait for the old oil to drain completely so they maybe put the screw back on while its still dripping.

at 8 quarts i am still 2/3rds of the way from max

Are we sure we’re not confusing quarts with liters (8 quarts = 7.57 liters)?

FWIW my most recent oil change came in liter containers.

Funf Dreisig

I pured 2 gallons of Rotella t6

so that's 8 quarts

unless the container of rotella I poured in came in slighlty low?

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/wc...7_pri_larg.jpg

7.0+ liters every time. I open the fill cap and pull the filter before draining the sump. I let it drain for over 30 minutes or close to an hour if I'm in no rush.

6.5 liters in, let it warm up a little, drive around the block and then check. Usually it's 1/2 to 3/4 on the dipstick. I add the rest of the liter bottle and then drive it. Check again and 90% of the time I need to add another 0.5 liter.

To check the dipstick, I use the same method I use for my E39 M5 because I know no better. Maybe that's wrong.

The Mobil 1 ESP 5W30 comes in liter bottles.

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While looking for Valvoline 5W40 MST at my local WM (Raleigh, NC), I stumbled across Penzoil Platinum Euro L 5w30 (LL-04 and MB 229.51 approved oil). Best part it was in stock and $22 for 5 Qt jug.

Valvoline MST is usually $6.98/qt, but never available in store. I usually order on line and pick up the same day.

I usually wait for the Valvoline 5W40 MST to be on sale at Napa for around $5 / qt. They typically do have to order it in, though my local Advance Auto started carrying it and will price match.
It's nice to an option from Pennzoil.

First, thanks to the OP for the thread, was nice to know what tools to have at the ready before starting.

Performed my first oil change on our new (to me anyway) 35d, and DEF Fill (got a warning a week ago)..

DEF fill was very easy and straight forward, but I apparently did not buy enough Fluid to fill both tanks. Fille the active tank, then the passive. But after 3.5 gallons of DEF, there was apparently still room in the Passive tank, so I guess I will top that up again at a later date..

When we bought the car in July, the Carfax showed a recent dealer oil change. So I let it go till the computer told me to change it, and grabbed an oil sample to send off to Blackstone labs.

Will see what the sample report shows and see if I am comfortable with the computer requested intervals on the BMW 0-30 LL04 oil, or if I switch to Redline Diesel Oil, or just shorten the interval and ignore the computer..

First observation, looks like the dealer decided to toss the Plastic access cover from the stiffener plate, as it was missing, and the carfax shows a history of dealer oil changes from the beginning...

Next, and more of a pain, the straight down drain splatters ridiculously when it hits the bottom of the drain pan (quite the mess). Not sure if angling the drain pain until there is an inch or so of oil in it would help alleviate that or not, any suggestions?

If you're talking about the cover over the oil pan drain bolt, I've replaced it twice and it's missing the very next time. Not sure if my experience is unique or not.