need a new truck.......
 

dumped the ML350, took back the X3, now i need a new truck.
i think i'm going with the x5d, i worked it up on bmw north america.
my question is, i'm thinking i will do the bmw select program, due to the fact that it is affordable, bmw website has my payments at $768 with zero drive off's, does this sound right?

Base MSRP$51,800
Alpine White$0
Black Nevada Leather$1,450
Dark Bamboo wood trim$0
3rd row seat$1,700
Heated front seats$500
Navigation system$1,900
Real Time Traffic Information$0
Roof rails$100
Running boards$300
BMW Assist with Bluetooth$750
Voice-command$0
Destination & Handling:$875
BMW Ultimate Service™
A suite of premium benefits that are included at no cost with all new BMW Vehicles.
4 Years/50,000 Miles WarrantyIncluded
4 Years/50,000 Miles Maintenance ProgramIncluded
4 Years/Unlimited Mileage Roadside Assistance
Total MSRP as Built$59,375

Truck...truck...?

Oh, you mean the X5.... ;)

Run your numbers. Find the "wholesale price list", add up the invoice cost for everything, then add training, maco and delivery- and $500 profit. Punch in the terms into a financing calculator and there you go!

GL

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where is the wholesale chart?

2 more years and 50K miles warranty for a measly 2,500$ or so... i think it would be worth it.

can't i buy that later???

i think so, but i'm not 100% certain its at the same rate. check with your dealer.

This is the biggest question I have with whether I should do an extended warranty. The years would pass much easier (quicker) than the mileage so essentially I'm paying $2500 immediately to get 2 years coverage. Would common things in year 5 & 6 breaking cost that much that easily? If 1 or 2 items break, am I looking at $2500, easily? Or would they have to be big ticket items?

The select program is basically just an 8 year loan on a car, 3 years making that payment, then a balloon payment or 5 more years making that payment - in most cases it makes no sense. It is a little cheaper than a lease, but you assume all the risk in the market value in 3 yrs when it is typically worth less than what you owe on it, so now you have a 35000 car you still owe 40000 grand to own, so you have to either pay for it in a balloon payment or up your car payment to pay it off for another 4 - 5 years. You could trade it in, but you are upside down, so makes the next one cost even more. If you lease it, you will be a little more/month, but no risk. If you want to own it, then you should buy it and pay for it for 5 yrs at $1000 a month, if you can't afford $1000/month, then you should lease it or probably look at something less costly. Almost any way you work it, the select program will cost you more in the end unless you are going to make the balloon payment fully at the end, in which case you probably would just buy it and make a lot less payments on it.

:iagree:

at the end of 3 years can't i refinance or trade in on a new one?

Sure. Of course if the car is worth less than you owe, trading it in will result in even more debt. The american way it seems.

Who would "refinance" a car if you owe more than the underlying car is worth?

Did you find the wholesale price sheet? It is here or on bimmerfest...you'll need to search.

why buy this 4 years in advance?...this can be purchased anytime during the original 4/50 warranty. Like right at 4 years or 49,995 miles later.

No reason to give your dealer your hard earned cash 4 years in advance...chances are, you'll fall in love with the X5 and trade it in on a shinier one on 3 years.

bummer,
can't find the price list:confused:

1. I don't know how the issue of a $2500 extended warranty just popped up in this thread- it is a total non sequitur... nobody mentioned this or bought it up as an option.

2. There is no "BMW warranty" you can get that cheap, EXCEPT maybe the very basic power train warranty. The "Gold" will be 3500 and the Platinum 4500. (Just rough numbers) Gold equals CPO.

3. If you can get a CPO for 2500, it is a worthwhile deal. But a dealer can only CPO a car they OWN. Hence the popularity of a dealer buyign your lease, cpoing it, selling it back to you.

4. Remember, with the new plans the cut off is 45 months and 45000 miles...NOT 49,999.9

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still need a price list guy's, any help would help

I suspect that there is some confusion betwen the maintenance upgrade, and the extended warranty. I agree that the extended warranty costs more than $2500. However, the original discussion was around the build, and there is an option on the configurator to add in 2 years/50,000 miles of extended maintenance, for $2495. I suspect that is what tonycajjo was talking about.

No, apparently only up to 45,000 miles. I agree that there is a time cost of money involved in paying for it up front. There is also the chance that the original owner may sell the car prior to needing it. However, the reason to buy it up front is that the price is known, and it is available. The program may not be available later in the ownership cycle, and the price may be higher. Not saying I would buy it, but there are pros and cons.

Firstly, it is important to separate the concepts of warranty and maintenance. Warranty doesn't cover things that break, that is a very generic term. It covers things that fail due to materials and workmanship, ie things that were wrong from the start. Logically, most things that fail due to design and manufacturing fail earlier in the ownership cycle, not later. That is why extended warranties have lower costs for the later years than the early years. That is the opposite of maintenance, where costs generally climb with accumulated years and miles. Both extended warranties and extended maintenance are simply insurance policies. One insures the original build, ie was it built right. The second one insures the expected repair costs. With both, the reason to buy insurance is if the cost of a single repair bill could not be covered, ie you couldn't do the repair because you couldn't raise the cash. Insurance buys peace of mind. If you want to look at it in terms of the average cost, the average repair cost over the term will be less than the price of the policy, otherwise the insurer wouldn't be making a profit, and they do make a profit. Your question about whether you will win or lose, ie if 1 or 2 items break will you spend more than the cost of the policy, is an 'average' question. On average, you will receive less benefit than the cost of the policy. However, the peace of mind may be worth it to you. That's fair.

^ thx - another general question - I know there's all kinds of warranty levels, say from a company like warranty direct. Say the idrive screen fails to work one day... isn't that something that broke rather than something due to materials & workmanship? A sensor/screen won't last forever - they break, electronics fail - and it may not be a manufacturing issue. I know BMW fixes something like this under warranty... if I got the right level of warranty, I should also be covered for it yes?

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Funny, I cannot find the pdf readily

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This is pretty hypothetical......However, to try and answer your question, it really depends on what the wording and exclusions are in the policy you are looking at. If an idrive screen stopped working, and it hadn't been beaten on, I would expect a manufacturer's warranty to cover it, since it would likely be a failure of an electronic component. However, electronic components fail much more often soon after they are first powered up, than they do thousands of hours later. If they do fail later, it can be due to a soldered connection, thermal cycling, etc, but it hasn't often simply worn out, as a mechanical component can do.

So to clarify my original statement, a warranty can cover things that break, but not just because they are broken. You have to look at the failure mode, the root cause of the problem. iDrive screens aren't designed to wear out and be replaced, so an earlier than expected failure of a screen would suggest a manufacturing problem.

Good post.

Two comments: 1. It is imperative to read a warranty contract in the LEAST FAVORABLE LIGHT to you- since that is what they will do when you have a claim.

2. HOW an item fails is central to the warranty, as JCL points out- I have come to discover that most mfgs will decide warranty, at least on a 'first pass' basis by the Part number, and not failure mode. It pays to know your contract and be able to argue a point if need be.

For example a blown clutch on an E39M5 almost always got rejected ...but if it was a failed 'self adjusting clutch' (SAC) that caused the disc and flywheel to burn, you could prevail.

thanks brah...