2008 X5 3.0 won't start
 

My truck has just over 60,000 miles. we've owned it since about 7000 miles, so I know the care it's had.

Go out today to run some errands and it took a few presses of the start button to get it to run. The first couple of times, it would turn over, but only run for a second.

When I backed out of the garage into the driveway, it just stopped. I tried several more times, but this time it won't stay started long enough to get back into the garage. Then I got a message on the DIC that there was an engine malfunction and that ABS and DSC we deactivated.

Since there's a slight downward slope, I can't push it back into the garage. So, there it sits.

I put a code reader on it and got the following codes:
P1017 Valvetronic Eccentric Shaft Sensor Plausibility
P103A VVT-System Current Too High
P105B Internal Control Module VVT Error, Voltage Too Low
P1056 VVT Control Motor Bank 1 Supply Voltage Input Too Low

Anyone know what could be causing these codes? Do I just need a new battery?

I must preface this with the fact that while I have quite a bit of automobile experience, I have little BMW-specific experience.

That said,with those codes (current too high, voltage too low) I would first check the wiring and connector for a short, e.g., look for any place the harness might be touching something and wearing through. I believe the wires for this come out of the valve cover.

Additionally, you could tug and push on the wires gently to see if it makes the problem go away -- if it does, you probably have a problem inside the harness and could open it up and examine the wires.

It could just be a bad sensor, but that combination of codes points to a short, IMHO.

Perhaps someone with more experience can chime in with more specifics and/or an alternative course of action.

Truck? Oh, you mean SUV.

:)


(Sorry, pet peeve...)

BMWs really do some funny stuff with low voltages...enough to start, but then voltages too low for some modules, etc.... I am just guessing here, but first I'd trickle charge it. Disconnect the battery from the car for a while, charge it, reconnect. If it is a 4,5 year old OE battery I'd just replace it. It may NOT be the battery, but chances are you'll be needing one sooner or later. If it fixes it, great- if not you are looking at $$$ for a tow and diagnostics.

I usually buy the largest battery I can fit. I think yours is an AGM, so you will need to have the car's battery module 'reset', maybe reprogrammed if you change sizes.

I agree. It would be interesting to see what the battery voltage is before the trickle charging...

SUV? Oh, you mean SAV. http://www.xoutpost.com/images/smilies/stickpoke.gif


(couldn't resist.)

Thanks for all the replies.

And I always call it a truck. :D

So, I go out there to test the battery voltage and it starts right up.

I'll drive it to work tmr to see if there is a problem but it sounds like the 4 year old battery is about to die.

*UPDATE* So, I bought a new battery and installed it.

The truck (SUV for ard :D ) is now starting perfectly, but everytime I let it sit for a few minutes or so, I have to reset the clock when I turn it back on.

This sounds like I have to go to the dealership to have it reprogrammed. Anyone disagree or know what the issue may be?

Another update. :rolleyes:

The clock has stopped resetting itself, so I didn't take it to the dealership.

I go out today to make a run and get an "Engine Malfunction" error. I drive right back into the garage.

The codes today are P1017 and P1030 (Valvetronics Monitoring Sluggish Movement).

I guess I will have to take it to the dealership and let them reset whatever is it that's not recognizing the new battery. :confused:

OK ANOTHER update.

It threw another code and would not start. It's the eccentric shaft sensor. $1300 repair!

These new Bimmers are crap. My 2002 M5 has never needed this expensive a repair a. And it has over 100,000 miles. :rolleyes:

I'm sure you've googled "eccentric shaft sensor" and found the part is about $300 and the install is quoted at an obscene 8 hours.

I'd just take a weekend and do it with a few hours at a time...just mechanical hand dis/re-assembly, as I see it...

A

If it were my daily driver, I would. But the wife drives it and she doesn't want to wait around and drive the other cars while I get done "at some point." :D

Sorry to resurrect a really old thread (I'm usually just a lurker), but I just had this code appear with my 2008 3.0si yesterday. I had the code read at Autozone and it came up P1017; an indy shop scanned it this morning as well. The indy shop said it was related to the VANOS and would need an hour or so to diagnose the problem exactly (when the light comes back on since they cleared it).

I cannot find the eccentric shaft sensor when I look on getbmwparts.com, but I can find the VANOS solenoids. They all look like fairly straightforward fixes, but I just want to make sure I am getting the right parts. Any advice?

I had a thread with a trouble-starting issue here and it turned out to be "intake vanos solenoid, both replaced. They found a bulletin on it too. SIB 11-02-08 "

http://www.xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-foru...t-start-2.html

If it's a bulletin I would suppose you have nothing to lose by asking them if it's related and get a free fix?

Hey, Just curious how's everything. Did the problem get fixed after you change the Eccentric Shaft Sensor?

I've got the same code for my 07' E83. BMW Code: 2A31 & 2A47, pointing directly to that EXPENSIVE sensor (labor-wise).

Keep us posted!