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Replica Wheels
I am looking to switch out my 214's for a set of 337's. I have to say it's awfully tempting to save $5k and go for replicas.
I did do quite a bit of forum reading about reps, but I was hoping to hear from anybody who has had reps for at least a couple of years. What problems have you run across? What should I look for when buying reps? Would you get reps or OEM in the future? Thanks for any feedback! |
This should be interesting ...
Just bought Style 300 replicas, should be able to discuss about them in a few years, since I haven't received them yet. Let's see what the others have to say about this. |
I've had my reps for nearly 4 years and since the beginning they've given me problems with vibrations at high speeds. I just don't drive highways often enough to replace them. It's really a shot in the dark when you order them - some people have zero problems... my best advice is to make sure each and every one received is perfect in finish and spins perfectly round. Don't settle just because sending back and forth is a hassle.. you will regret it later. Saving $5k is obviously a huge incentive.
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I've ben in the automotive industry for several years before, if I may, switching gears, and out-of-round wheels weren't uncommon on OEM wheels also.
Those wheels are manufactured by aftermarket suppliers, to molds owned by the car manufacturer (ex: the Style 214 are built by Ronal, several BMW wheels were built in the past by BBS). The manufacturer needs to pay the least they can, and still provide acceptable durability to the wheels, but they don't manufacture them themselves. Usually, OEM wheels are casted (poured thru a mold) instead of being forged. 2 types of casted wheels: - Gravity molded (poured in the mold) - Low pressured casted (removes more imprefection, let's put it that way). Most of the OEM wheels on the automotive market today are gravity casted, which is the cheapest way of making a wheel, it's like making a cake, for lack of better explanation. Forged wheel uses a solid aluminium block, which is then machined to specification. You have 1 piece forged, 2 pieces (center and rim made separately, then attached together), 3pieces, ... When you buy an aftermarket wheel, it's recommended by the retailer to check them BEFORE mounting them, because it's possible to have an out-of-round on the massive amount of wheels they purchase. That's what the automotive manufacturer does, so that's why we see less out-of-round wheels from them, they act as a good customer ;). |
Buy a one piece forged wheel, its the strongest wheel that you can get.
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What do you mean by "OEM"? Ronal and BBS are the OEMs, correct??? But then you use OEM to refer to the actual wheel... should the OEM really just be 'non-OE' or "reps" or "cheap wheels"? I am being slightly pedantic, but the whole OE/OEM/Aftermarket has become so confused that the term OEM is virtually useless. A |
What I meant is that Original Equipment from Manufacturer are made by aftermarket suppliers, who does from time to time, replicas wheels.
That's why it can be confusing, since the line's not as cleat as anyone would like. |
I bought the 20" 215 Reps in Gunmetal about a year ago. I love them, no issues at all. Gone through a bunch of holes here in NYC and they've been solid. My experience has been great so far.
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But sadly the term OEM can mean virtually anything. They can be OE from the Manufacturer They can be 'equivalent part from the manufacturer that made the OE part' They can be 'aftermarket part made by a company that once made an OE part, so the company is an OEM and the part is- 'from an OEM' They can be simply aftermarket- not OE, not even made by an OEM, (ie ebay specials) I'm not quibbling with you- my point is to bring up to buyers that the label "OEM" means nothing due to they widely varying interpretations.... A |
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