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Engine light on. Codes 2c9c and 2c61
2008 X5 4.8 with 70 k miles. Reset the codes but engine light back on. North codes appear to have something to do with "lambda probe front catalyst". Has anyone dealt with these codes? Should I replace the pre cat O2 sensors and go from there?
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Sorry, missed this...
You have two simultaneous codes, one for each O2 sensor? It is unusual for two parts to fail simultaneously... two possiblke causes: 1. A wire got damaged underneath; 2. the fuse to the sensors is damaged. If you are gettig a "pre-heat circuit" failure, then this is NOT related to their 'function'...when the car starts up, immediately power is delivered to the sensors to warm them up- this is different that the sensing function (this is why there are 4 wires to each). Look at the wiring diagram, see of there is a common fuse (on other BMWs there IS and it is NOT in the fuse box (!!!!)). Or look at the common connector underneath for damage. GL A |
I looked at the connector box and replugged the passenger side front sensor in. Everything looked fine. Cleared the codes but they came back a few miles later. I think both codes are for bank one, pre-cat sensor. I think I'm going to try to replace that sensor. Looks like it will be a pain to get access to it. Can't get to it from above like most pre-cat sensors, but it's also hard to reach from below, even with all the covers removed.
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Have you replaced the battery, yet?
Lots of weirdness from an old battery... Just replaced mine last fall. |
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BTW, the actual codes are for Lambda probe heater front catalyst, control and Lambda probe front catalyst, electrical error. |
I do not. Saw your other post.
Do you have access to the schematic? It should tell you the fuse, and location |
The WDS shows it with the fuses under the glovebox, but it's not very clear. I checked all of the fuses there, and they were fine. I'm going to go ahead and swap the sensor today.
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Then again, a new O2 sensor is always nice to have! GL A |
Ok, so I replaced the pre-cat sensor on bank 1 (passenger side) and drove around fifty miles yesterday without the engine light coming back on. I'll update after some more miles. The sensor wiring looked intact under the sheath so I guess it might have been a short or interruption inside the sensor itself.
As for replacing the sensor, what a pain! Definitely a two person job. I had to attach my crowsfoot sensor socket with two universal attachments and several extensions all duct taped together. I then pulled the sensor cable ( it's around three ft long) up near the passenger side firewall so I could feed the crowfoot down from above. I found it helpful to tape the slit on the crowfoot tool closed so it wouldn't fall out on the way down. Then I slid it down the cable as someone below the car helped it into place and held it while the other person loosened the sensor with a breaker bar. Once it was loose, I was able to spin it of with two fingers from below and the new one went in fairly easily. Now I know why the dealers charge big bucks for that job! Whose idea was it to put those pre-cat sensors there? Edit: Been a couple of days and a 100+ miles and no engine light!!!! |
I would love to see a good DIY video/pics for doing this replacement on an E70. I've found others for different model BMW's and they seem so much easier.
I'm also getting code: - Fault: Heater for lambda probe front catalyst 2 - Code: 002C9D Which, if I am reading correctly, indicates a probable fault with my O2 sensor as well. And since it refers to "catalyst 2", is that to mean it's #2 in this diagram? RealOEM.com - Online BMW Parts Catalog |
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Now I'm really confused. The diagram is from realoem and I gave the last 7 digits of my VIN to get to it.
When I look down at the engine, on the passenger side I see the front one (part #1 in the diagram) which looks to be relatively easily accessible, and the rear one (part #2 in the diagram) back under the microfilter housing towards the firewall. The code would seem to indicate that it's the rear, harder to access, probe that needs to be replaced. But it looks like a number of things have to come off to get to it. |
When you get an O2 sensor **HEATER** code, that usually means an open circuit to the O2 sensor. There are 4 wires to the sensor- two get the actual signal, the other two are for a heater to warm up the sensor.
If you reset the code and, on next start IMMEDIATELY get that code return, it is the heater in the sensor OR the connections to the sensor OR the fuse to the heater circuit. And PHL08- have you looked from underneath? Ive not done it on E70s, so no idea. But I dont think Ive ever done an O2 from above on any car.... Oh, hate to change it to find out it was a fuse or connector loose. |
I cleared the code and took the car around the neighborhood. No engine light. But when I stopped and checked the codes, it was back. When I started the car again, the engine light was on.
So, if it's the heater in the probe then the probe needs replaced. I can check the fuse, if I knew where/which to look for. Any thoughts? The connectors will require so much removal of other parts that I might as well swap the probe at that point. Bosch probes are going for about $130 now. I'm still scratching my head from 2 posts ago when it was suggested my bank 2 is on driver side, though the N52 engine in this scenario is a straight 6 which, I thought, puts the 2nd bank in the rear for cylinders 4-5-6. |
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Bothers me that you have a o2 or catalyst issue at 70k o2 sensors should go 100k. I fear.for.your catalytic converters. Something is wrong here and you must have it diagnosed. Any good shop that does emissions testing should be able.to figure.it out.
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